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VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK 


COMPILED BY 


MARY STUART SMITH 


NEW YORK 
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 
1885 








Copyright 


1884, by 








PREFACE. 


It is not the aim of this little book to furnish an elab- 
orate treatise on cookery, or to supplant any other author- 
ity on the subject. But persons who desire to excel in 
this sphere do not like to be tied down to any one par- 
ticular method, or at least take an interest, and find their 
advantage, in counselling with their neighbors concern- 
ing the economy of household management. In the sim- 
plest and most unpretending manner, two Virginian la- 
dies would herein lay before their sisters a collection of 
recipes, such as have been constantly used in the fami- 
lies of their State for many years back, and tested by 
the experience of several generations. It was thought 
doubly expedient to make such a collection of recipes at 
this time, when, old domestic institutions having been done 
away with, there is danger that the composition of many 
an excellent dish may become forgotten lore. Enough 
will it be for the Virginia Cookery-book to take its place 
on the house-keeper’s pantry shelf along-side of the simi- 
lar works of Miss Leslie, Marion Harland, Mrs. Hender- 
son, and Mrs. Hale, tobe referred to, if not on every occa- 
sion, at least frequently. All that its compilers promise 
is to be found trustworthy in the limited field which they 
have undertaken to occupy. 


INTRODUCTION. 


In pursuance of the compiler’s wish that the “ Virginia 
Cookery-Book” should serve as a memento of the past, as 
well as a help in the present, she ventures to reproduce 
the introduction to Mrs. Randolph’s “ Virginia House- 
wife,” since it was written for that lady by the compil- 
er’s grandfather, Professor George Tucker, and contains 
a tribute to the notable character of Virginia matrons of 
the olden time that she would like to go down to poster- 
ity. This is done, the rather because there is no author- 
ized edition of Mrs. Randolph’s excellent work now ex- 
tant. Although its date of publication was 1831, most of 
Mr. Tucker’s remarks are as applicable now as when they 
were written. ‘Two changes in the manners of the times 
are to be incidentally noticed. At that day, in a family 
living in good style, the dining-room servant was invari- 
ably a man; the castors, too, made the central figure on 
the dinner-table. Yet, be it observed, particular atten- 
tion to the latter may need to be enjoined only the more 
earnestly, because in the more retired situation which 
they now hold on the sideboard, neglect as to their con- 
dition might not be so promptly brought to light, and 
yet be only the more mortifying when it did appear. 


v1 INTRODUCTION. 





With filial reverence, then, the grandchild would lay 
before her contemporaries advice that she feels carries far 
more weight with it than anything which she could hope 
to say herself on the important subject of ordering the 
affairs of the household. 


“ Professor Tucker's Introduction. 


“Management is an art that may be acquired by every 
woman of good-sense and tolerable memory. If, unfort- 
unately, she has been bred in a family where domestic 
business is the work of chance, she will have many diffi- 
culties to encounter; but a determined resolution to obtain 
this valuable knowledge will enable her to surmount all 
obstacles. She must begin the day with an early break- 
fast, requiring each person to be in readiness to take their 
seats when the muffins, buckwheat cakes, etc., are placed 
on the table. This looks social and comfortable. When 
the family breakfast by detachments, the table remains a 
tedious time, the servants are kept from their morning’s 
meal, and a complete derangement takes place in the whole 
business of the day. No work can be done until break- 
fast is finished. The Virginia ladies, who are proverbially 
good managers, employ themselves, while their servants 
are eating, in washing the cups, glasses, etc., arranging the 
cruets, the mustard, salt-sellers, pickle-vases, and all the 
apparatus for the dinner-table. ‘This occupies but a short 
time, and the lady has the satisfaction of knowing that 
they are in much better order than they would be if left 
to the servants. It also relieves her from the trouble of 
seeing the dinner-table prepared, which should be done 
every day with the same scrupulous regard to exact neat- 
ness and method as if a grand company were expected. 
When the servant is required to do this daily, he soon gets 


INTRODUCTION. , vii 





into the habit of doing it well, and his mistress having 
made arrangements for him in the morning, there is no 
fear of bustle and confusion in running after things that 
may be called for during the hour of dinner. When the 
kitchen breakfast is over, and the cook has put all things 
in their proper places, the lady should go in to give her 
orders. Let all the articles intended for the dinner pass 
in review before her; have the butter, sugar, flour, meal, 
lard, given out in proper quantities; the catsup, spice, 
wine, whatever may be wanted for each dish, measured to 
the cook. The mistress must tax her own memory with 
all this; we have no right to expect servants to be more 
attentive to our interests than we ourselves are; they will 
never recollect these little articles until they are going to 
use them; the mistress must then be called out, and thus 
have the horrible drudgery of keeping house all day, when 
one hour devoted to it in the morning would release her 
from trouble until the next day. There is economy as 
well as comfort in a regular mode of doing business. 
When the mistress gives out everything there 1s no waste; 
* but if temptation be thrown in the way of subordinates, 
not many will have power to resist it; besides, it is an im- 
moral act to place them in a situation which we pray to 
be exempt from ourselves. 

“The prosperity and happiness of a family depend 
greatly on the order and regularity established in it. The 
husband who can ask a friend to partake of his dinner in 
full confidence of finding his wife unruffled by the petty 
vexations attendant on the neglect of household duties— 
who can usher his guest into the dining-room assured of 
seeing that methodical nicety which is the essence of true 
elegance—will feel pride and exultation in the possession 
of a companion who gives to his home charms that grati- 
fy every wish of his soul and render the haunts of dissipa- 


viii INTRODUCTION. 


tion hateful to him. The sons bred in such a family will 
be moral men, of steady habits; and the daughters, if the 
mother shall have performed the duties of a parent in the 
superintendence of their education as faithfully as she has 
done those of a wife, will each be a treasure to her husband; 
and being formed on the model of an exemplary mother, 
will use the same means for securing the happiness of her 
own family which she has seen successfully practised un- 
der the parental roof.” 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER I. 
YEAST.—BREADS MADE WITH YEAST, AND BISCUIT. 


Yeast.—Hannah’s Yeast.—Exact Way to Make Good Light Bread.— 
Sponge.—Potato Yeast.—Biscuit.—Thin Biscuit.—Beaten Biscuit. 
—Bachelor’s Loaf.—Sherwood Biscuit.—French Rolls.— Cream 
Rolls.—Sally Lunn, Nos. 1 and 2.—Cinnamon Buns.—Hannah’s 
Rolls.—Hannah’s Muffins.— French Bread.—French Biscuit.— 
Lightened Biscuits.—Powhatan Loaf.—Powhatan Rolls.—Quick 
Biscuits.—Soda Biscuit.—Golden Loaf of Albemarle.—Brandon 
Rolls. —Old Maids.—Brown Bread.—Rusks, Nos. 1 and 2.—Apple 


CATV lB 2: 0 Pa Page 1 
CHAPTER II. 
CORN BREAD, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND FANCY BREAD OF FIFTY 
SORTS. 


Muffins.— Fly-aways, or Souffié Biscuits.—Corn Batter Cakes.— 
Corn Dodgers.—Ash Cake.—Every-day Batter Bread.—Buttered 
Federal Loaf, for Tea.—Apoquiniminc Cakes.—Velvet Cakes.— 
Crumpets.— Cream Batter Pudding.— Buckwheat Cakes, No. 1. 
—Buckwheat Cakes, No. 2.—Buckwheat Cakes (quickly made).— 
Mush Batter Cakes.—Economical Batter Cakes.— Cream Cakes. 
—Lapland Cakes, No. 1.—Lapland Cakes, No. 2.—Rice Cakes.— 
Chocolate Cakes.—Rice Waffles.—Orange Cakes.—Flannel Cakes, 
No. 1.—Flannel Cakes, No. 2.—Ingleside Waffles. Germantown 
Puffs.—Chaney’s Thin Biscuits.—Crackers.—English Muflfins.— 
Johnnie Cake.—Rice Muffins.—Rice Drop Cakes.—Port Royal 
Corn Cakes.—Nun’s Puffs.—Corn Muffins.—Corn Muffins (quick- 
ly made).—Hoe ‘Cake.—Alabama Rice Bread.—Espetanga Corn 
Bread.—Edgemont Waffles.—Mrs. Walker’s Wafiles.—Rice Waf- 
fles. — Waffles without Eggs.— Tea Cakes without Eggs.—Vir- 
ginia Ege Bread.—Hominy Batter Cakes.—Short Cakes.—Best 
Rice Griddle Cakes.—To Grease a Griddle.—Mrs. Cabell’s Batter 


x ) CONTENTS. 


Bread.—Indian Meal Batter Cakes.—Excellent Muffins.—Break- 
fast Cakes. —A Favorite Muffin. — Pop-overs. — Delicate Crack- 
GTS acs nol ba taralaWena Seid Div nie te i bases tse een ol Page 18 


CHAPTER III. 
COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE. 


To Boil Coffee, No. 1.—To Boil Coffee, No. 2.—French Coffee.— 
Vienna Coffee.— Green Tea.— Black Tea.— Latest Fashion for 
Making Black Tea.— Cold Tea.— Chocolate, No. 1.— Chocolate, 
No. 2:-—Chocolate, No. 3 ...0. css: is-c.a eps > soa eee 35 


CHAPTER IV. 
EGGS. 


Soft-boiled Eggs.— Hard - boiled Eggs.— Poached Eggs.— Omelet 
‘Plain.—A Very Superior Omelet.—Baked Eggs.—Shirred Eggs.— 
Deviled Eggs.—Scrambled Eges.—Eges 4 la Créme.—Omelet of 
au — Beef Omelet.— Potato Omelet.—Ham Omelet.— Stuffed 


CHAPTER VY. 
OYSTERS. 


Oysters Raw.— To Stew Oysters.—To Broil Oysters.—To Roast 
Oysters.—Scolloped Oysters.—Baked Oysters.—Oyster Patty.— 
Oyster Fritters.—To Fry Oysters.—To Make Oyster Loaves.— 
Terrapin Stew.—To Pickle Oysters.—Oyster Soup.—Richmond 
Way of Pickling Oysters.— Cream Oysters. — Baltimore Oyster 
Pie.—A Ragout of Oysters... i... 1.7. 2s 4s = hae eg se 49 


CHAPTER VI. 
FISH. 


To Boil Rockfish.—Sauce for Rockfish.—To Boil a Shad.—To Bake 
a Shad.—To Fry a Shad.—To Broil a Shad.— Court Bouillon, 
Louisiana Mode.—To Broil Trout, and Sauce for it.—To Fry 
Trout.—Fresh Herrings.—To Boil Herrings plain.—Boiled Her- 

rings, with Mustard Sauce.—To Fry Perch.—To Broil Perch.— 
Perch, with Caper Sauce.—To Boil Salmon.—To Broil Salmon, 
with White Sauce.—Salmon Pie.— Lobster Pie.—Turbot a la 
Créme.—To Dress Bass or Sheep’s-head.—Baked Blackfish.—To 
Broil Carp.—To Broil Carp au Court Bouillon.—Stewed Lobster. 
—Baked ‘Base. is. 0o vsica s vacee dee pues oe ure cee een 58 


CONTENTS. xi 





CHAPTER VII. 
SOUPS. 


Stock for Soup.—To prepare a Beef’s Head for Soup Stock.—Aspar. 
agus Soup.—Beef Soup.—Chicken Soup.—Black Mexican Bean 
Soup. — Force-meat Balls for Bean Soup. — Corn Soup. — Calf’s- 
head Soup.—Gumbo.—Mock-turtle Soup.—Little Eggs for Turtle 
or Mock-turtle Soup.—Oyster Soup, No. 1.—Oyster Soup, No. 2. 
—Ox-tail Soup.—Okra Soup.—Green-pea Soup.—Squirrel Soup. 
—Tomato Soup.—Good Lenten Soups................. Page 72 


CHAPTER VIII. 
POULTRY AND MEATS, 


To Roast a Turkey.—Gravy for Roast Turkey.—Deviled Turkey. 
—To Boil a Turkey, with Oyster Sauce.—To Boil a Turkey, with 
Egg Sauce.—To Roast a Goose.—The Epicure’s Improvement to 
Roast Goose.—To Roast a Goose before a Range or in a Stove.— 
To Roast Grown Pullets.—To Roast Young Chickens.—To Roast 
Pheasants or Partridges.—To Boil Grown Chickens.—To Roast 
Ducks. —To Dress Wild Ducks.—Gravy for Wild Ducks or 
Grouse.—To Roast a Pig Whole.—Souse.—To Roast a Haunch 
of Venison.—To Roast a “Shoulder of Venison.—A Venison Pasty. 
maim moast Mutton like Venison ., 2.6.0 .ceces vcs e newt ecese 83 


CHAPTER IX. 
MEATS (Continued). 


Beefsteak.— Beef Stew.— Mutton Stew.—Curry Powder.— Zitelli’s 
Macaroni Stew.—To Fricassee Chickens.—Fowl] Cutlets.—Chick- 
en Pudding.—Stewed Ducks.—Stewed Chicken.—Brown Gravy 
for Ducks.—To Dress a Calf’s Head.—A Pie of Green Corn and 
Chickens.—Father Adam.—To Stew a Rump of Beef.—Sanders 
of Cold Beef.—Italian Beefsteak.—To Stew a Fresh Beef Tongue. 
—Ragdut of Souse.—Beef Bouillii—A Nice Relish of Meat for 
Tea.—Venison Stew.—Blanquettes of Veal.—Baked Hash.—Veal 
Olives the French Way.—Sweetbreads with Oranges.— Sweet- 
breads 4 la Dauphine.—To Make a Handsome Dish out of an Old 
Hen.—Brunswick Stew.—Stewed Pizeons.—Rice Pie........ o5- 


CHAPTER X. 
CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 


Cucumber Catsup, No. 1.—Cucumber Catsup, No. 2.—Tomato Sa- 
voy.—Chelsea Sauce.—Pepper Sauce.—Cranberry Sauce.—Celery 


xii CONTENTS. 


Sauce.—Drawn-butter Sauce.—Dutch Sauce.—Fish Sauce.—Lob- 
ster Sauce.—Sauce for Rockfish.—Sauce for Roasted Wild Duck. 
—Egg Sauce.— Sauce for Venison.— Green Tomato Catsup.— 
Cold Tomato Sauce.—Sauce for Lettuce.—Mint Sauce for Lamb. 
—Apple Sauce for Goose.—Russian Sauce.—Tomato Catsup, Nos. 
1,2,and 3.—A Nice Store Sauce.—Tomato Sauce.—Oyster Sauce. 
—Cucumber Sauce.—Bay Sauce.—Gooseberry Catsup.—Walnut 
Catsup, No. 1.—Walnut Catsup, No. 2.—Cucumber Catsup.— 
Worcestershire Sauce ...\) i, .siewsse «eae sub sees oon Page 110 


CHAPTER XI. 
VEGETABLES. 


Artichoke.—Asparagus.—French, or Snap Beans.—Lima Beans.— 
Beets. —Carrots.—Cabbage.—Cabbage Pudding, No. 1.—Cabbage 
Pudding, No. 2.—Cauliflower and Broccoli.—To Boil Corn on the 
Ear.—To Stew Corn, No. 1.—To Stew Corn, No. 2.—To Fry Corn, 
—To Bake Corn.—To Cook Dried Corn.—To Cook Cucumbers. — 
Cymlings, or Summer Squash.— To Bake Egg-plant.—To Fry 
Egg -plant.— Grits, or Small Hominy.—To Bake Grits.— Fried 
Grits.—To Boil Hominy.— Macaroni.— Okra.— Onions.— Onions 
4 la Créme.-—To Boil Old Potatoes.—To Boil Irish Potatoes.—To 
Steam Potatoes.—Mashed Potatoes.—Baked Potatoes.—Fried Po- 
tatoes for Dinner.—Sweet Potatoes.—Irish Potatoes Roasted.— 
Parsnips.—Green Peas.—Dried Peas or Beans.—To Boil Rice.— 
A Colored Cook Tells how to Dress Rice.—Baked Rice.—To Fry 
Salsify.—To Stew Salsify.—To Bake Salsify.—To Stew Spinach. 
—To Broil Tomatoes.—To Bake Tomatoes.—To Stew Tomatoes. 
—Forced Tomatoes. —Turnips.—Turnip-tops.—Baked Turnips.— 
Corn and Tomatoes.—Tomatoes with Eggs................ 120 


CHAPTER XII. 
ENTREES. 


Croquettes, No. 1.—Croquettes, No. 2.—Rice Croquettes.—A Boned 
Hen.— Welsh Rarebit, No. 1.—Welsh Rarebit, No. 2.— English 
Rarebit.— Scotch Rarebit.— Piccadillo.— Ragoéut of Oysters and 
Mushrooms.—A Ragéut of Mushrooms.—Mushrooms with Cream. 
—Mushrooms with White Sauce.—Turkey a la Daube.—Chickens 
4, la Daube.—Partridges 4 la Daube.—To Make Nice Meat Jelly. 
—Salmagundi.—A Pig in Jelly.—A Ragout of Ham.—A Ragout 
of Sweetbreads. —A Ragout of Trufiles. —A Ragdut of Cauli- 


CONTENTS. xill 


CHAPTER XIII. 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES COLD. 


Chicken Salad.— Lobster Salad.— Cold Slaw, No. 1.—Cold Slaw, 
No. 2.—Hot Slaw.—Sauce for Salmon or Lobster.—To Dress 
Lettuce without Oil.— Tomatoes Raw.—Cucumbers Raw.—Dress- 
ing for Lettuce.—Dressing for Lettuce or other Salad.—Anoth- 
er Salad Dressing. — Yet another Salad Dressing. — A Winter 
Salad. — Mayonnaise Salad Dressing. — Cabbage Salad.—Oyster 
I Fe Sein cele gob Se ERS ve heen sas bea Page 153 


CHAPTER XIV. 
PIES AND PUDDINGS. 


Puff Paste.—Boiled Pastry.—Pastry (Another Way).—Railway Pud- 
ding.—Victoria Pudding.—Sago Pudding.— Ground - rice Pud- 
ding.—Confederate Pudding.—Plum Pudding, No.1.—Plum Pud- 
ding, No. 2.—Plum Pudding the Second Day.—Baked Plum Pud- 
ding.—Plum Pudding (Mrs. Cabell).—Cake Pudding.—Sponge- 
cake Pudding, No. 1. —Sponge- -cake Pudding, No. 2.—Plain Mo- 
lasses Pudding.—Tyler Pudding. —Sweetmeat Pudding.—Bread 
Pudding.— Citron Pudding. — Orange Pudding. — Custard Pud- 
ding.—Cocoa-nut Pudding.—Cream “Pudding.—Green-corn Pud- 
ding.—Rice Pudding.—To make Rice Pudding.—Arrow-root Pud- 
ding.—Apple Pudding, No. 1.—Apple Pudding, No, 2.—Norfolk 
Pudding Puff.—Jelly Pudding.—Rice Pudding without Eggs.— 
Fruit Pudding. —Molasses Pudding. —Apple Pies without Apples. 
—Delicate Apple Pudding.—Apple Charlotte.—Friar’s Omelet.— 
Blackberry Pudding.—Dressing for Sponge-cake Roll.—Orange 
Custard Pie.—Sponge-cake Roll.—Delmonico Pudding.—French 
Sauce for Puddings.—Hard Sauce (Mrs. Chevallié).......... 162 


CHAPTER XV. 
SWEET CAKES. 


Sponge Cake.—Butter Sponge Cake.— Valley Sponge Cake.—Pound 
Cake.— Naples Biscuit.—Bride’s Cake.— Elegant Black Fruit 
Cake.—Fine Fruit Cake (More Modern Recipe).—A Cheaper but 
Good Fruit Cake.— White Fruit Cake.— Jackson Cake. — Lee 
Cake.— Composition Cake.—Snow-mountain Cake.—Home Gin- 
gerbread, No. 1.—Home Gingerbread, No. 2.—Lady Cake.—Pres- 
ton Ginger Cake.—Little Molasses Cake.—Mrs. J. Randolph Page’s 


xiv CONTENTS. 


Ginger Cake.—Mrs. Ritchie’s Marmalade Cake.—Ginger Snaps.— 
Jew’s Cake.— Good Ginger Cake.— Mrs. Garrett’s Ten-minute 
Cake.—Baker’s or Plebeian Gingerbread.—Never-failing Cake.— 
Cocoa-nut Cake.—Leavened Fruit Cake.—White Cup Cake.— 
Angel’s Food.—Republican Cake.—Wafers.—Cream Cake.—Tea 
Cake, No. 1.—Tea Cake, No. 2.—Indian Meal Pound Cake.—A1- 
mond Cake.—To Make Shrewsbury Cakes............. Page 181 


CHAPTER XVI. 
ICINGS. 


Icing for Cake, No. 1.—Icing for Cake, No. 2.—Transparent Icing. 
—To Make Boiled Icing.—Chocolate Icing.—Red or Pink Color- 
ing for Icings, Jelly, etc.; Nos, and 2.3.2. ss eases ene 195 


CHAPTER XVII. 
ICE-CREAM AND CUSTARD. 


Vanilla Ice-cream.—Economical Lemon Ice-cream.—Lemon Sirup. 
. —Lemon Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice- 
cream in Winter.— Raspberry Ice-cream.— Peach Ice-cream.— 
Green-apple Cream.— Caramel Cream.— Cocoa-nut Ice-cream.— 
Chocolate Ice-cream.—Chocolate Custard.—Coffee Cream.—Cof- 
fee Cream (Another Way).— Pineapple Cream—Orange Ice.—. 
Lemon Sherbet.—Pineapple Sherbet.—Frozen Tea.—Tutti Frut- 
ti.— Currant Ice.— Gooseberry -fool.— Frozen Plum Pudding.— 
Boiled Custard.—Trifle.—Burnt Custard.—Baked Custard.—Ba- 
nana Ice-Cream.—Banana Cream.—Frozen Peaches......... 198 


CHAPTER XVIII. 
JELLY, CHARLOTTE-RUSSE, ETC. 


Calf’s Foot Jelly.—Jelly without Eggs or Boiling.—Isinglass Jelly. 
—Lemonade Jelly.—Orange Jelly. —Fruit in Jelly.—Rock Cream. 
—Cream Jelly.—Jerusalem Cream.—Farina Jelly.—Blanc-mange, 
No. 1.— Blanc-mange, No. 2.— Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 1.— 
Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 2.—Jelly without Wine.—Bavarian — 
Cream.— A Pretty Supper-dish of Jelly—To Make a ‘‘Hen’s 
Nest.” — Carrageen Moss Blanc-mange.—Chocolate Charlotte- 
Russe.—Apples with Jelly.—Ellie’s Eclaires,—Flummery.—Char- 
lotte-Russe.—Almond Blanc-mange............e.eeceeeeees 217 


CONTENTS. xv 


CHAPTER XIX. 
PRESERVES, ETC. 


To Preserve Apples.—Apple Jelly.—Blackberry Jam.— Beautiful 
Jelly Made from Pippin Apples.—Blackberry Preserves.—To Pre- 
serve Cherries.—Red-currant Jelly.—Fox-grape Jelly.— To Pre- 
serve Siberian Crab-apples.—To Preserve Cranberries.—Damson 
Preserves.—Sweetmeats of Citron or Cantaloupe Melons.—Green 
Gooseberries.—Greengage Plums.—Jelly.—Grape Preserves.—To 
Preserve Clingstone Peaches.—Peach Jam.—Quince Preserves. — 
Pear Preserves.— Raspberry Preserves.— Strawberry Preserves. 
—To Make Jelly out of Strawberry Acid.—Green Tomato Pre- 
serves.— Sweetmeats.— Pineapple Preserves.—To Preserve Or- 
anges Whole.—Orange Marmalade.—Quince Marmalade.—Green 
Sweetmeats.—Fig Preserves.— Quick Way of Preparing Water- 
melon Rind.—Canned Peaches.—Brandy Peaches...... Page 229 


CHAPTER XX. 
PICKLES. 


Prepared Vinegar.—Green Pickle, No. 1 (quickly made).—Green 
Pickle, No. 2 (quickly made).—Isabella’s Cabbage Pickle.—Green 
Mangoes.—Cabbage Pickle.—Chopped Pickle.—Filling for Five 
Dozen Peach Mangoes.— Peach Mangoes. — Peach Mangoes 
(Another Way).— Pepper Mangoes.— Martinoes.— Cut-cucumber 
Pickle.—Ripe Tomato Pickle.—Green Tomato Pickle, No. 1.— 
Green Tomato Pickle, No. 2.—Onion Pickle.—Walnut Pickle. 
—Hiden Salad.—Chow-chow, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Pickled Mush- 
rooms.— Pickled Peppers.— Sweet Pickle. (So-called German.) 
—To Green Pickles.—To Stuff Forty Large Cucumbers.—Span- 
ish Pickle.—Watermelon-rind Pickle, No. 1.—Watermelon-rind 
Pickle, No. 2.—Buck and Breck Pickle.—Sweet-peach Pickle.— 
Ripe Cantaloupe Pickle. (Eastern Shore.) .........ceessee5 202 


CHAPTER XXI. 
CURED MEATS AND FISH. 


To Cure-Bacon.—To Cure Jowls and Chines for Early Use.—Sau- 
sage-meat, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—To Cure Hams by Pickling.—Souse 
in Moulds.— Brine for Preserving Souse.— Mock Bologna Sau- 
sage.—Pudding.—To Corn Beef, Nos. 1, 2, and3.—A Spiced Round 
of Beef.—To Broil Ham Nicely.— A Stuffed Ham.—To Cure 


xvi CONTENTS. 


Tongues. —To Cure Rennet.— Prize Recipe for Curing Vir- 
ginia Hams. — To Boil a Ham. — Pressed Beef.—Pickled Her- 
TINGS roa are ee Pk a ee ee ene eo oa Page 268 


CHAPTER XXII. 
CORDIALS AND COOLING DRINKS. 


Strawberry Acid.—Raspberry Vinegar.—Rose Brandy for Flavor- 
ing.—To make Lemon Sirup.—Cherry Shrub.—Blackberry Acid. 
—Blackberry Cordial. (Medicine.)—Currant Shrub ........ 278 


CHAPTER XXIII. 
HOME-MADE WINES. 


Blackberry Wine, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Wine from Catawba Grapes.— 
Grape Wine.—Currant Wine.—Good Cooking Wine....... + 282 


¢ 


CHAPTER XXIV. 
THE DAIRY. 


To Make Butter.—Brine for Keeping Butter.—To Cure Butter.— 
Mrs. Colston’s Recipe for Putting up Butter to Keep.—Cottage 
Cheese. — Bonny - clabber. — Slip. —Curds and Cream, No. 1.— 
Curds and Cream, No. 2.—Cheese.—Cream-cheese, No. 1.—Cream- 
cheese, No. 2.—To Make Slip-coat Cheese .................. 286 , 


CHAPTER XXvV. 
CANDIES AND CONSERVES. 


Cocoa-nut Candy.—Cocoa-nut Balls.—Candy in Pudding Fashion. 
—Newport Candy.—Cream Caramels.—Conserves of Strawberries. | 
-—Kisses.—Peach Chips or Conserves.—Peach Leather.—Butter 
Taffy.— Cocoa-nut Cones.— First-rate Molasses Candy.— Choco. 
late Caramels.—Delightful Cough Candy........ssseeesee0. 294 


CHAPTER XXVI. 
FRITTERS, PANCAKES, ETC. 


French Fritters. — Bell Fritters. — Rice Fritters. — Puff Fritters, — 
Apple Fritters. — Spanish Fritters. —Snow-flake Sauce. — Berry- 
ville Fritters. —Quaking Pudding. — Pancakes. — Scotch Pan. 
CAKGB, . ous gsc vace ae be 'euce cot enue nilgeetne Alans sitet ieee 800 


CONTENTS. XVii 





CHAPTER XXVII. 
FOR THE SICK. 


Beef Essence.—Chicken Essence, or Tea.—Beef Tea, No. 1.—Beef 
Tea, No. 2.— Chicken Soup. — Panada, No. 1.— Panada, No. 2. 
—Rusk Panada.—Caudle.—Rice Caudle.—Flour Caudle.—Hard 
Biscuit for Invalids.—Crisp Biscuits.—Mush.—Gruel.—Arrow- 
root.—Tapioca Jelly.—Sago.— Rye Mush.— Cremo,— Eggnog.— 
Mint Julep.—Prunes.—Lemons.—Limes.—Soft Peaches.—Cran- 
berries.—Apples.—A Plain Rice Pudding.—Rice Milk, No. 1.— 
Rice Milk, No. 2.—Rice Shapes.—Clover Tea.—Mullein Tea.— 
Tamarind-water.—Toast and Water.—A pple-water.—Elder-flower 
Tea.—A Fine Tonic.—Lemon Honey.—Dewberry Sirup.—Boiled 
Flour for Invalids.—To Cure a Cold.—An Admirable Cough Mixt- 
ure.—Cherry-bark Tea.—Brown Mixture for Coughs.—Burns.— 
Blisters.—Basilicon Salve.—Cuts.— W ounds.—Sprains.—Bruises. 
—For a Rising Breast.—Boils.................. 02 eeeee Page 305 











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VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER I. 
YEAST.—-BREADS MADE WITH YEAST, AND BISCUIT. 


Yeast.—Hannah’s Yeast.—Exact Way to Make Good Light Bread.— 
Sponge.—Potato Yeast.—Biscuit.—Thin Biscuit.—Beaten Biscuit. 
—Bachelor’s Loaf.—Sherwood Biscuit.—French Rolls.— Cream 
Rolls.—Sally Lunn, Nos. 1 and 2.—Cinnamon Buns.—Hannah’s 
Rolls.—Hannah’s Muffins.— French Bread.—French Biscuit.— 
Lightened Biscuits.—Powhatan Loaf.—Powhatan Rolls.—Quick 
Biscuits.—Soda Biscuit.—Golden Loaf of Albemarle.—Brandon 
Rolls.—Old Maids.—Brown Bread.—Rusks, Nos. 1 and 2.—Apple: 
Bread.—Salt-rising Bread. 


YRAST, 


Bott five or six large Irish potatoes until soft, and mash 
them fine; to three pints cold water put a half-gill meas- 
ure of hops, closely pressed; let the water come to a 
boil, and boil for five minutes, uncovered; strain gradual- 
ly the tea over the mashed potatoes, and after they are 
mixed strain through a colander to exclude the potato 
lumps ; add, while hot, a teacupful of sugar and a table- 
spoonful of salt, and, when nearly cold, a teacupful of old 
yeast. 

This yeast will be ready for use within four hours 
after being made, and will not quickly sour. 

In order to have white flaky bread very little lard must 
be put in the flour—not more to each quart of flour sett 
a piece the size of a hickory-nut. : 

S 


2 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


- 


Hannan’s YEAST. 


One teacupful of salt, one of sugar (white or fair 
brown), two cupfuls of flour, two of meal, eight large 
Trish potatoes, one large handful of hops. Boil the pota- 
toes, after pealing them raw; strain the hot potato-water 
into the salt, sugar, flour, and meal; make a quart of 
strong hop-tea and pour over this; put on the fire and 
stir until the yeast has thickened sufficiently, which will 
be in from five to ten minutes; add now a teacupful of 
old yeast that is still lively and set away, in a jar, to rise. 

This yeast, if kept in a cool place, will be good as long 
as there is any of it left. 


Exact Way Tro Maxr Goop Ligut Brerap. 


Obeying the following directions for making yeast and 
sponge, the most inexperienced cook may soon become 
skilful as a bread-maker : 

Boil six potatoes ; peel and mash them up smooth, so 
that not the least lump is left; mix with them a light 
half-pint of sifted flour ; stir these into a pint of boiling 
hop-tea; strain through a coarse sieve, and add three 
table-spoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt; when 
cold pour in a half-pint of old yeast. 

Use two table-spoonfuls of this Teane for lightening 
one quart of flour. 

SPONGE, 

Two large Irish or white potatoes, three table-spoon- 
fuls of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar; mix smooth 
with one pint of boiling water; when cold, add six table- 
spoonfuls of yeast. Make up your bread (in winter) with 
this sponge at 4 p.m. for an eight o’clock breakfast, using 
two and a half quarts of flour, two eggs well beaten— 
[very good bread is made by this recipe without the 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 8B 





eggs, however|—one table-spoonful of butter and lard, 
mixed. | 

Make up the sponge before breakfast, if you want light | 
bread for tea. It will be covered with froth when well 
risen. In summer, for breakfast bread, make the sponge 
after dinner—that is to say, three or four o’clock p.uw.— 
and work it into your dough with ice-water just before 
leaving the kitchen for the night. When you leave out 
the eggs add their bulk in water. 

Although the above recipe is as precise as can well 
be, yet in the matter of light bread-making something, 
after all, must be left to the judgment of the cook, who, 
to insure success, must watch the changes of temperature 
as carefully as any maker of almanacs, If the weather 
is hot, the bread-dough must be set in the coolest place 
accessible; if the weather is cold, just the opposite treat- 
ment must be pursued. The dough should be left to rise 
in a vessel sufficiently large to allow of its swelling to four 
times its original size, and yet the vessel should be close- 
ly covered. A cook should always keep a clean, coarse 
linen towel at hand, wherewith to cover her bread after 
the lid is lifted, and while it is taking its second rise. 

Cooks differ as to the length of time bread ought to 
be worked after the yeast is put in, Some only kneading 
it enough to make the dough smooth and pliant. But I 
must say that the dest bread-makers whom I know knead 
for at least an hour, and with all their might. Even 
then there is a magic in the touch of certain gifted ones 
that all cannot hope to acquire, although every willing 
person can learn to make an excellent article. 

In the morning, if the dough is properly leavened, it 
will quiver on one side if touched on the other. Have 
ready a bread-board, which must be well floured ; flour 
your hands also before attempting to lift the dough 


4 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


from its bucket or jar; have your tins greased; make | 
out into loaves or rolls, as you may fancy, working the 
dough just enough to mould it into the forms desired. 
Put a little clean lard between each roll, in order that 
they may easily come apart; and also lightly grease over 
the tops, that the crust may brown well and be tender. 

The dough must be set to rise a second time before 
being put into the oven, which must be well heated, and 
kept evenly so all the time that the bread is baking. 
One hour is usually allowed for this second rising, and 
one hour for the baking. But here, again, it is impossible 
to set down invariable laws, because fires will not all 
burn just alike, and bread rises twice as fast on a warm 
morning as when the air is frosty and biting. | 

While one cannot exaggerate the particularity required 
of every woman who would excel as a bread -maker, 
there is a comfort in reflecting that such stupid people 
have acquired the art that no one need despair, if she 
have only a willing mind. 

The most beautiful bread I ever saw was made by a 
poor creature only one degree removed from idiocy; she 
had sense enough, however, to feel how her bread should 
be treated, and was, moreover, scrupulously neat. 

An old “aunty” in a Virginia homestead of the olden 
time made such exquisitely fair rolls, that a visitor 
asked leave to be permitted to have her recipe. ‘ Aunt 
_ Phyllis,” the lady said, “I have come to get your recipe ~ 
for making the lovely rolls you gave us for breakfast.” 
With a droll and puzzled air the cook answered, “La! 
missis, I just know I dar’n’t make ’em no different.” 

The old woman could give no other recipe: she knew 
what she had to do, and did it. I.am much mistaken if 
any one can fail who sets about bread-making with care- 
fulness and a determined purpose to succeed. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 5 


ANOTHER Goop ReEcrrE FoR YEAST. 
(From Fauquier County.) 


Boil a handful of dried hops, or a two-inch cube, if 
you use those put up and pressed for market, in two 
quarts of water, and add four large potatoes, boiled, 
mashed, and strained; scald six table-spoonfuls of flour 
in the liquid, adding one cup of sugar and one cup of 
salt; when cold, add yeast to ferment it, thinning the 
liquid to two and a half quarts. This, put in well-corked 
bottles, will keep six weeks in the warmest weather. 
Use half a teacupful for each quart loaf of bread. 


Potato YRAST. 


After removing the peel, slice eight common - sized 
white potatoes and put them in a kettle to boil, with five 
pints of water; add a double-handful of hops, tied up in 
a thin muslin bag; let all boil together until the potatoes . 
are thoroughly cooked; then take the potatoes out of the 
kettle with a perforated ladle, put them into a bowl, and 
mash them perfectly smooth; then stir into them a tea- 
cupful of pulverized sugar and a smaller teacupful of 
salt; then strain over them the hop-tea from the kettle, 
and you have new yeast; wait until the heat is only 
tepid, and then add a cupful of already risen yeast to 
make the new ferment. In twenty-four hours it is fit for 
use. Do not put any flour into this yeast. The salt is 
put in, during warm weather, to prevent it from turning 
sour, and therefore may be omitted in winter. If you pre- 
fer doing so, make it into cakes with corn meal and dry 
them in the shade. 

Biscuits. 

At present this favorite bread is generally made with 

the help of Horsford’s, Royal Baking, or Rumford’s yeast 


6 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


powders, particular recipes being given on their several 
packages; but a few general hints concerning their prep- 
aration may be useful to inexperienced house - keepers. 
The cook should be instructed to roll her dough till only 
half as thick as you wish your biscuits to be when done, 
if any of the above powders are used, as it will rise a 
great deal, in spite of being stuck with a fork—a part 
of the biscuit-making process never to be neglected. 
Nothing can be more inelegant than a large, thick biscuit. 
Let the oven be well heated before the cook begins to 
make up her dough even, for, the quicker the process, the 
more likely it is to be successful. Biscuits should be 
baked in about ten minutes, brown and crisp, but not 
hard. Occasionally a person is found who likes a soft, 
white biscuit; if so, special directions may be given to 
that effect, for this may be considered an idiosyncrasy 
of taste. A biscuit should be cut not more than three 
inches in diameter, and not more than a third of an inch 
in thickness. For variety, biscuits may be made out with 
the hand, instead of being cut with a cutter. Strange 
as it seems, so small a matter makes a decided change in 
the look and taste of the article, and it is well worth a 
house - keeper’s while to study all these little ways of 
gratifying that love of novelty so inherent with us all, 
but with the young especially. 


Tun Biscurr. 


A popular bread for the tea-table is supplied by merely 
taking as much biscuit-dough as would suffice for one 
biscuit, dividing it into two parts, and rolling each part 
out round, until the circumference is five inches instead 
of three. Stick with a fork here and there over the sur- 
face. The cakes will be very thin, of course, and can be 
cooked in five minutes, the oven being moderately and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. r 


steadily heated. Let them brown, but not be the least 
burnt. Prepare as many as your family require <A 
pint of flour will furnish a nice plateful. 


Braten Biscuit. 


Take two pints of flour, one table-spoonful of lard, and 
one teaspoonful of salt. Have ready a mug filled with 
equal parts of sweet milk and water, and add it gradually 
to the other ingredients, kneading all the while, and stop- 
ping as soon as the flour will hold together, for the dough 
should be very stiff. Beat thirty minutes with an axe, 
kept for the purpose; or, if you use a kneading-trough, 
run the dough backward and forward through it, until 
rather soft and perfectly smooth. _ 

In the Virginia of the olden time no breakfast or tea- 
table was thought to be properly furnished without a 
plate of these indispensable biscuits, which were wont to 
be “white as the driven snow” inside, and deemed both 
wholesome and palatable. 

Let one spend the night at some gentleman-farmer’s 
home, and the first sound heard in the morning, after the 
crowing of the cock, was the heavy, regular fall of the 
cook’s axe, as she beat and beat her biscuit-dough. 
Grown familiar, how appetizing the sound, as the gauge 
of good things to follow soon! 

Nowadays beaten biscuits are a rarity, found here and 
there, but soda and modern institutions have caused them 
to be sadly out of vogue. There are difficulties in the 
way. In the first place, there must be a biscuit-block, usu- 
ually the trunk of some solid oak or chestnut tree, felled 
and sawed off to a convenient height, when, of course, it 
must be planed smooth, and set up in some accessible 
place in or near the kitchen. Any ordinary table would 
soon be knocked to pieces, if used for this service, A 


8 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


machine may be obtained that answers the purpose ad- 
mirably, but it is rare. We have only seen one specimen 
in use. Then an axe, with a short, stout handle, must 
hang ever ready to be applied to this use, and this alone 
is a condition hard to comply with in a Southern kitchen, 
where servants are careless, as a rule. Lastly, most ser- 
vants object nowadays to the trouble of preparing this 
bread. But the house-keeper who has the energy to sur- 
mount these difficulties, and essays her skill in following 
the recipe here given, may be assured that she will be 
rewarded for her pains. 


Braten Biscuit, No. 2. 


One table-spoonful of butter and lard mixed, one egg, 
one quart of sifted flour, and one teaspoonful of salt. 
Make up with half a pint of milk, or, if milk is not to be 
had, plain water will answer; beat well until the dough 
blisters and cracks; pull off a two-inch square of the 
dough; roll it: into a ball with the hand; flatten, stick 
with a fork, and bake in a quick oven. 


Bacuertor’s Loar. 


Three eggs, half a pint of milk, one quart of flour, two 
table-spoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, three 
table-spoonfuls of yeast. Warm the milk and butter to- 
gether; stir in the flour and salt, then the eggs, well 
beaten; beat the whole well, and stir in the yeast; set it 
to rise in the pan you mean to bake it in; butter the pan. 


SuEeRwoop Biscovrr. 


For breakfast, make up at night a pint of flour with a 
table-spoonful of yeast, exactly as if for light bread ; in the 
morning work in a quart of flour, with a table-spoonful 
of shortening, half a pint of buttermilk in which a pinch 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 9 


of soda has been dissolved, or simply a cup of sweet milk 
instead, and a table-spoonful of butter and lard, mixed; 
work well for ten minutes ; make into small biscuits with 
the hand, instead of cutting out. This recipe is among 
the very nicest, if the directions are strictly followed out. 


Frrencu Ro.ts. 


Make them up over night with yeast as for light bread, 
adding the yolk of an egg to each pint of flour; work it 
well, and in the morning work in one ounce of butter to 
a pint of flour, That quantity will make three nice 
rolls. They must be baked quickly, and eaten as soon as 
done, to be enjoyed in their perfection. After putting 
the butter in the dough it should stand to rise until half 
an hour before baking, when the dough should be formed 
into as many rolls as you wish, and covered with a towel 
until the oven is ready for them. They are generally 
made into long, narrow-shaped rolls of small size. 


Cream Ro.ts. 


Rub into one quart of flour a bit of butter the size of a 
small egg; add one teaspoonful of salt; to half a pint of 
thick cream a little sour add half a teaspoonful of salera- 
tus dissolved in warm water and milk enough to make a 
dough not quite stiff enough to roll out; make it up into 
small rolls with the hand, greasing the parts that touch 
each other, so that they may readily come apart. 


Satty Lunn, No. 1. 


Half a pint of milk, one pound of flour, two eggs, one 
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, a light teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one gill of yeast. 

To bake for breakfast, mix the above ingredients the 
last thing at night, and set the Sally Lunn to rise ip a 

1* 


10 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


covered pan, allowing it plenty of room to swell; set it in 
a warm or cool place, as the state of the weather shall in- 
dicate, always remembering that it rises more quickly 
than light bread dough. In the morning, if you find it 
at all over-risen or sour, mix up half a teaspoonful of soda 
in a little sour milk, and stir it in gradually until the bat- 
ter again tastes sweet. The soda is only to be put in 
in case of necessity, and pains should be taken to keep 
the batter sweet; grease a one-pound cake-mould, and af- 
ter the batter again has risen for half an hour put it in 
the oven to bake, and eat hot, with butter. 


SaLtLy Lunn, No. 2. 


When we make Sally Lunn at home for tea we prepare 
a sponge as for light bread very early in the morning, 
thus: Boil, peel, and mash fine two large Irish potatoes, 
which must be made into a paste with two large spoon- 
fuls of sifted flour, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt, by means of warm water. By ten o’clock 
the sponge will have risen sufficiently to make into a bat- 
ter with three pints of flour, four eggs, and a small table- 
spoonful of butter and lard mixed. This batter may be 
risen in any vessel that is convenient, and only need be 
put into the baking-moulds when ready for the second 
rise, which would be about four o’clock p.m. for a six 
o’clock tea. The above quantity is sufficient for two 
Turkish turbans holding three-quarters of a pound each, 
and would suffice for a company of twenty persons. 


CINNAMON Buns. 


After supper put one pint of new milk, one cup of but- 
ter and lard mixed, and one cup of white sugar on the fire 
to warm; then pour into the tray a little of two quarts of 
flour, beating it until cool; add one cup of yeast, and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 11 





work in the rest of the flour well; set to rise as you do 
light bread. e 

After breakfast next day work in another cup of sugar, 
and roll out the dough about half an inch thick, spread- 
ing over its surface the mixture given below, and roll up 
as you would a roly-poly pudding, then setting it to rise 
for the second time ; when well risen cut it down in pieces 
one and a half inches wide; bake on buttered paper in a 
slow oven. 

Mixture for layer: Half a pound of butter creamed, 
one pound of brown sugar, two heaping table-spoonfuls 
of powdered cinnamon. 

Materials required: Two quarts of flour, one pint of 
milk, one cup of butter and lard, two cups of white sugar, 
one cup of yeast, one dessert-spoonful of salt. 

Layer: Half a pound of butter, one pound of brown 
sugar, two table-spoonfuls of cinnamon. Time for whole 
process, twenty-two hours. 


Hannan’s Rois. 


Two quarts of flour, one table-spoonful of lard, two 
gills of yeast, two teaspoonfuls of salt. Make to the con- 
sistency of light bread dough, with water, or milk-and- 
water. In winter let the water be warm; in summer, the 
coldest ice-water. In winter make it up as early in the 
evening as possible; in summer, as late; knead always a 
great deal, with a pressure at once firm and light. 


Hannan’s MuFFIns. 


One quart of flour, one gill of yeast, two eggs, one 
spoonful of butter and lard, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
a pint of milk. Make up at ten o’clock in the morning 
for a seven o’clock tea. Its consistency is that of a soft 
dough. Bake either by dropping from a spoon into the 


12 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


pan, or in muffin-rings. For handed tea they are de- 
lightful, if buttered at the fire before being sent to the 
dining-room. 

Frrenco Brean. 

Rub one table-spoonful of lard into one quart of flour; 
add a teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of good 
yeast ; mix with milk enough to make a thin dough; 
knead it well, and put in a buttered pan to rise; bake it — 
inthe same pan. Allow one hour for the baking. 


Frencu Biscuit. 


Four pints of flour, four eggs (leaving out the yolks of 
two), four teaspoonfuls of white sugar, one teacupful of 
good yeast, one table-spoonful of butter and lard mixed, a 
teaspoonful of salt, one pint of new milk. Make all these 
materials into a dough and work well; set them away and 
allow them four hours in which to rise; then work again 
and roll out thin, cutting them out into small biscuits; 
grease their tops lightly with lard, and place on that a 
second biscuit; let them rise again, and bake in a rather 
quick oven. 

LigHTENED Biscuits. 

One quart of flour, one teaspoonful of sugar, three eggs, 
one cupful of butter, one cupful of yeast, three potatoes, 
one teaspoonful of salt. Beat the eggs very light, and, 
if you choose, substitute lard for half the butter; use no 
water; knead very thoroughly, and make up directly af- 
ter breakfast. The potatoes, mashed fine and worked in 
smoothly, are a great improvement. Set them to rise the 
-second time at three o’clock p.m.; put to bake at six P.M. 


PownHaTAN LOAF. 


Make up one quart of flour at night with a gill of yeast; 
when the dough is ready for a second rise beat up the 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 13 


yolks of two or three eggs; add a piece of butter the size 
of a turkey-egg ; beat these into the dough, and knead 
until perfectly smooth; then set it to rise in the pan you 
intend to bake it in; in two hours, when it should be well 
risen, bake in a moderate oven as you would light bread. 
It takes longer to cook. 


PowuaTan ROo.ts. 


Three pints of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one table- 
spoonful of sugar, three eggs, six table-spoonfuls of yeast, 
a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Make all these in- 
gredients into a dough just stiff enough to handle at ten 
o'clock a.m., and set the dough to rise where you can 
watch it; when well risen, make it out into any shaped 
rolls that you prefer, greasing them where they touch; 
set to rise for the second time, and when you put them 
into the oven to bake glaze the tops by brushing them 
over with white of egg. 


Quick Biscuits. 


There are many ways of preparing these by calling in 
the aid of various powders, all of modern invention, but 
good when used judiciously. Even in slow-moving Vir- 
ginia we apply to these labor-saving methods of cookery 
at times with satisfaction. 

Most house-keepers keep a supply of both Horsford’s 
powder and the Royal Baking Powder, to be used as oc- 
casion requires, and good recipes for their use accompany 
each package. For years we have found it well to sift a 
whole package of Horsford’s powder into thirty pounds of 
good extra superfine flour of fine grade, and thus have it 
ready at hand whenever wanted. Biscuits made with that 
powder are better, we think, than soda. But, since it is 
perhaps necessary for a country house- keeper to know 


14 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


many different ways of preparing the same article of 
food, as she cannot always get the very supplies she 
needs at a moment’s warning, we append a recipe where- 
by even soda biscuits may be rendered palatable. 

The first rule to be observed is to use the baking pow- 
der sparingly. A teaspoonful, in conjunction with some 
acid, is enough to lighten a gallon of good flour, instead 
of a quart, as ordinary cooks imagine. 


Sopa Biscuit. 


One quart of flour, one table-spoonful of butter and lard 
mixed, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of 
soda; enough buttermilk or sour milk to make the dough 
just stiff enough to be handled (half a pint is about what 
will be needed) ; the soda should be sifted with the flour 
and the shortening rubbed in before the buttermilk is 
added. These biscuits do not require kneading or beat- 
ing, but must be mixed and baked as quickly as possible 
afterward. The quicker the process, the more likely to © 
be successful. Roll out a little less than half an inch 
thick, and stick well. — 


GoLpEN Loa¥F or ALBEMARLE. 


Three pints of flour, six eggs, six or seven good-sized 
Irish potatoes, one table-spoonful of lard, one table-spoon- 
ful of sugar, one large teacupful of yeast. If, when made 
up, the proper consistency of light bread-dough has not 
been attained, add milk, water, or flour, whichever your 
judgment decides is needed. ‘The dough must be worked 
thoroughly, which may be known by its blistering. When 
wanted for breakfast it must be mixed and worked the 
night before. In the morning do not work it at all, but 
only empty and settle it in the greased pan in which it is 
to be baked. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 15 


Branpon Ro.uts. 


Put a quarter of a pound of butter into two quarts of 
flour ; add the yolks of two eggs and half a pint of yeast, 
previously made into a sponge ; make up the dough with 
warm milk until it is of the consistency of loaf-bread 
dough; a pint, or rather more, of milk will be needed; put 
into a greased mould overnight, and bake in the morning. 


Oxp Marps. 


From your plain loaf-bread dough take off a large piece 
in the morning; with your hand pull off quite large bits 
and shape them in round cakes six inches in diameter and 
half an inch thick; let them rise again as you would light- 
ened biscuits, and bake them upon a griddle; they should 
look very white, with a light-brown ring in the centre. 
These same cakes are sold in our larger cities as English 
muffins, and are a favorite bread in Virginia at breakfast, 
known either under the name we have given or locally as 
“‘hoe-cakes.” They may, indeed, be baked on a hoe be- 
fore an open fire, such as in past times were always used 
to cook by. 

Brown Breap. 
Three quarts of Graham flour, one quart of lukewarm 


water, a gill of molasses, half a pint of Indian meal gruel, 
three teaspoonfuls of salt, a large mug of good hop yeast. 


Rusxs, No. 1. 


Take one quart of milk, one teacupful of cream, half a 
pound of lard, a quarter of a pound of butter, one table- 
spoonful of salt,and boil them together. Beat well four 
eggs with one pound of sugar (fair brown, say extra C*); 


* Every good grocer knows the grade of sugar designated. 


16 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


pour the boiling milk on them gradually, stirring all the 
time ; when nearly cold add one teacupful of yeast and 
flour sufficient to make a stiff batter ; allow a little more 
time for it to rise than for ordinary light bread-dough; 
when well risen knead it up as you do bread, and let it 
lighten again before shaping it into rolls; when moulded 
into the form you wish, brush over the tops with sugar. 


Very Nicre Rusks. 


One pint of milk, half a pint of yeast, four eggs, three 
quarters of a pound of sugar, one quarter .of a pound of 
butter. Beat the eggs light, and add to them the yeast, 
milk, and as much flour as will make the mixture as stiff 
as you can stir with a spoon; make it up in the evening 
for tea the next day; next morning work into the dough 
both the sugar and butter; add more flour, if needed to 
make it stiff enough to handle, and mould into biscuit 
shape or rolls; give it a second rise, however, first, and 
do not put it to bake until very light ; when moulded 
into the form you wish, brush over the tops with sugar and 
cream, then let them rise a few minutes, when they will be 
ready to bake. | 


_ Rusxs, No. 2. 


Take as much lightened dough as would make a quart 
loaf of bread ; spread it open in your kneading-trough 
and put into it a teacupful of sugar, half a nutmeg, and 
a piece of butter weighing two ounces; work it well; 
mould it out into biscuits or rolls, and bake it in your 
bread oven ; wet the tops with sugar and cream before it 
goes into the oven. 


APPLE BREAD. 


Make up two quarts into dough precisely as if for 
rusks ; when it is very light roll out a cake of it half an 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. sai 


inch thick ; spread stewed apples over it, and over that 
another cake rolled like the first ; put it in a pan to light- 
en for a short time; bake it; have some thin slices of 
apples stewed very tender; when the cake is baked lay 
these slices of apples all over the top ; sprinkle them well 
with sugar, some small bits of butter, and either nutmeg 
or cinnamon, whichever you like ; put it back in the oven 
long enough for the sugar to form a coating on the top ; 
take it out, and when cold slice it up. This is a very 
favorite bread with young people at tea, 


SALT-RISING BREAD. 


Put half a teaspoonful of salt in half a teacupful of 
flour; pour on boiling water; work it well very stiff; put 
this where it will keep warm all night; next morning take 
a pint of milk, warm water, and as much salt as before ; 
mix in flour till you make a good muflin batter; then add 
the scalded yeast to the batter and set it in warm water 
till it rises; then add flour to form a stiff dough, and 
bake. : 

This is the favorite bread all through the Valley of 
Virginia and Maryland. Some dyspeptics think it much 
more digestible than bread made up with other kinds of 
yeast. 


18 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER Il. 


CORN BREAD, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND FANCY BREAD 
OF FIFTY SORTS. 


Muffins.— Fly-aways, or Scoufflé Biscuits —Corn Batter Cakes.— 
Corn Dedgers.—Ash Cake.—Every-day Batter Bread.—Buttered 
Federal Loaf, for Tea.—Apoquinimine Cakes.—Velvet Cakes.— 
Crumpets.— Cream Batter Pudding.— Buckwheat Cakes, No. 1. 
—Buckwheat Cakes, No. 2.—Buckwheat Cakes (quickly made).— 
Mush Batter Cakes.—Economical Batter Cakes.—Cream Cakes. 
—Lapland Cakes, No. 1.—Lapland Cakes, No. 2.—Rice Cakes.— — 
Chocolate Cakes.—Rice Wafiles.—Orange Cakes.—Flannel Cakes, 
No. 1.—Flannel Cakes, No. 2.—Ingleside Wafiles.—Germantown 
Pufis.—Chaney’s Thin Biscuits—Crackers—English Muffins.— 
Johnnie Cake.—Rice Muffins.—Rice Drop Cakes.—Port Royal 
Corn Cakes.—Nun’s Puffs. —Corn Muffins.—Corn Muffins (quick- 
ly made).—Hoe Cake.—Alabama Rice Bread.—Espetanga Corn 
Bread.—Edgemont Waffles.—Mrs. Walker’s Wafiles.—Rice Waf- 
fles. — Waffles without Eggs.— Tea Cakes without Eggs.—Vir- 
ginia Egg Bread.—Hominy Batter Cakes.—Short Cakes.—Best 
Rice Griddle Cakes.—To Grease a Griddle.—Mrs. Cabell’s Batter 
Bread.—Indian Meal Batter Cakes.—Excellent Muffins.—Break- 
fast Cakes.—A. Favorite Muffin.—Pop-overs.—Delicate Crackers. 


MuFFINS. » 


To four eggs, well beaten, add one pint of new milk; 
rub three ounces of butter into as much flour as will make 
the other ingredients the consistence of fritter batter; stir 
into the flour thus prepared the milk and eggs; add one 
teaspoonful of salt and one table-spoonful of yeast. They 
may be baked after rising in a warm place for three hours. 
Use mufiin-rings or little tin patty-pans. 


Figgas. deiienn stesso git a 4 Salt . sees 1 teaspoonful. 
Flour: 2.22 eee Gh, Butter. cs Aen 3 OZS. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 19 





FLy-AWwAays, oR SourFL# Biscuits. 


Rub four ounces of butter into one quart of flour, sift- 
ed, add a salt-spoonful of salt and make into a paste with 
milk. Knead well, handling lightly, and roll out till they 
are as thin as paper and the size of a common saucer; stick 
here and there with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven 
until they look flaky and white. 


RE ee eats scans ss 4 ozs. DOUG oes c's 1 pt. 
Oe iG. koe vie ss 1 qt. tlh ino eae gite 1 salt-spoonful. 


Corn Batter CaAkEs, 


One quart of corn meal thoroughly sifted from the bran 
and two or three eggs, to be made into a very thin batter 
and baked on a griddle. If boiled rice or small hominy 
has been left over from dinner, they make a nice addi- 
tion to these cakes, in which a country negro is sure to 
excel, and a skilled cook apt to fail. 


Cormmumesie. ci. 1 qt. Wile esa 2 qts. 
Lig oS er ee RS) ats 2 ALG Bate ace 1 dessert-spoonful. 
Rice, or small hominy......... 4 pt. 


Corn DopaeErs.* 


Good meal from white corn is the first essential of this 
fundamental article of Southern diet. Sift the meal and 


* This plain bread was every day a chosen article of diet with 
Washington, ‘‘ the father of his country.” 

The only time the compiler of these recipes ever saw the great 
Daniel Webster he was interesting himself greatly about these very 
corn dodgers. The journey being from Philadelphia to the White 
Sulphur Springs, the moment the boundaries of Virginia were struck 
he and his party, which included two ladies of his family, began to 
express a lively desire to taste a specimen of this genuinely Southern 
bread. At every station the request was made of the dusky venders 
of luncheons, ‘‘Can you sell us some corn dodgers?” After many 
disappointments a plate of small corn-pones was produced at some 


20 VIRGINIA COOKELY-BOOK. 


mix up into dough, with cold water and salt in proportion 
to the quantity made up. Make up with the hand into 
long, oval-shaped cakes, and put in a pan to bake. The 
crust should be brown, and is very sweet. 

Practice and guess-work might be stated as properly 
belonging to this recipe, as the real Virginia “aunties” 
who make it unerringly to perfection are never known to 
measure. A beginner may safely venture upon the quan- 
tities given below: 


Meal.... 1 qt. | Water.... 1 teacupful. | Salt.... 1 teaspoonful. 


Asy Cakr. 

Corn meal, salt, and water, just as for corn dodgers ; 
but a large, open fireplace must be at hand, the hot ashes 
swept cleanly aside, and large, flat pones of dough laid 
on the hearth just before the fire. When the top of the 
pones are slightly dried the ashes are drawn complete- 
ly over them, there to remain until they are well done, 
which is ascertained by their firmness, after time enough 
is supposed to have been allowed (say, fifteen minutes). 
When drawn from the fire the ashes are shaken off, the 
pones of bread washed, dried a little, and are then ready 
for use. Very particular people cover the loaves of bread 
with collard-leaves before the ashes are put over them. 
A bit of hot ash cake, sent up with a glass of buttermilk 
fresh from the dairy, is often served to the most deli- 
cate ladies, and not only relished, but thought to be pe- 
culiarly strengthening. 


little way-side inn. And then the liveliness of discussion, and pleas- 
antness of comment, were things to abide long in the memory of a 
young Virginia girl, who did not then know, however, that she was 
looking her last upon one of the greatest orators and statesmen that 
America has produced. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 21 


Every-pay Batrer BREAD. 


One pint of good corn meal, sifted, two eggs, and one 
quart of milk, with about half an ounce or one ounce of 
butter and one full teaspoonful of salt. 

The above recipe may be relied on as the one common- 
ly in use at every gentleman’s table, not only in Virginia, 
but throughout the South. Good meal is essential to its 
perfection. It should be made of white corn, and ground 
in a mill worked by water-power. Any addition of sugar 
is thought to spoil it, the native sweetness of the corn be- 
ing all-sufficient. When, in summer, or from other cir- 
cumstance, there is only buttermilk or sour milk in the 
dairy, it is used frequently with the skilful addition of 
just enough soda to make the milk foam and lose its acid 
taste. 

ButrEereD FrpERAL Loar, ror TEa. 

One quart of family flour, one gill of sweet yeast, two 
eggs, one table-spoonful of butter creamed, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Make up the dough with water as for light 
bread, only somewhat softer, after breakfast, for tea the 
same evening. When done, with a very sharp knife slice 
it all the way through into slices half an inch thick; but- 
ter the pieces generously with fresh butter ; replace the 
slices until the loaf resumes its original shape; set it in a 
warm place until you are ready for it to be served. This 
loaf was frequently used for the handed teas that were 
almost universally served in old Virginia families. With 
a cup of good tea and a thin slice of cold tongue or spiced 
beef, a bit of Federal loaf furnished a delightful repast. 


APOQUINIMING CAKES. 


A quart of flour must be made into a paste, with a large 
pinch of salt, one beaten egg, four ounces of butter, and 


22 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





enough new milk to enable one to roll it handily on the 
pastry-board; beat it with a pestle for half an hour, then 
roll it out very thin, cut it into round cakes, and serve hot 
at the tea-table. They are very delicious. 


VELVET CAKES. 


Make a batter of a quart of flour, three eggs, a quart of 
milk, a gill of yeast. When well mixed stir in a large spoon- 
ful of melted butter, and bake in muffin-rings, after they 
have had time to rise. 

CRUMPETS. 

Very early in the morning take a quart of dough from 
your light bread and soften it into a moderately thick 
batter with lukewarm water, three well-beaten eggs and 
a little salt added; mix very smooth and light, setting 
it in a warm place to rise till breakfast-time ; drop the 
batter on the hot griddle so as to be round in shape; bake 
quickly, and you will not find it necessary to turn them. 


Cream Batrer Puppina. 


Half a pint of flour, three eggs (two will do), a teaspoon 
quarter filled with soda, a little salt, one pint of cream or 
buttermilk. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs sep- 
arately, and bake in a moderate oven. 


BuckwueEat Caxes, No. 1. 
(Regular Recipe.) 


Fill a quart measure more than half full of buckwheat 
flour, then add two large spoonfuls of corn meal and two 
of wheaten flour, which should heap up the measure. 
Make these into a batter with half a gill of best yeast, a 
teaspoonful of salt and a pint of cold water, just before 
leaving the kitchen for the night, as no other batter turns 
sour so soon. For the same reason these favorite cakes 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 23 


are seldom seen save between October and June. If the 
cook be careful there will be no need for soda or any 
other bread powder. Such aids should be resorted to as 
seldom as possible. If the cakes will not brown nicely, 
add a table-spoonful of molasses. Fine buckwheat cakes 
should be half an inch thick, but so through lightness. 
Although buckwheat is higher in price than flour, its 
use is economical, as saving the expenditure of eggs at 
the season when they cost most. 


BuckwuHeat Cares, No. 2. 


(A very nice but more expensive Recipe.) 


Half a pint of buckwheat flour, a quarter of a pint of 
corn meal, a quarter of a pint of wheat flour, a little salt, 
two eggs beaten very light, one quart of new milk (made 
a htthe warm, and mixed with the eggs before the flour 
is put in), one table-spoonful of butter or sweet lard, two 
large table-spoonfuls of yeast. Set it to rise at night for 
the morning. If in the least sour, stir in before baking 
just enough soda to correct the acidity. 


Bucxwuerat Caxes (Quickly Made). 


To three pints of buckwheat made mto a batter add 
one teaspoonful of superearbonate of soda dissolved in 
water, one teaspoonful of tartaric acid dissolved in lke 
manner. First apply the soda by sifting ; stir the batter 
well, then put m the acid. The great advantage of this 
recipe is, that 1t may be used when buckwheat cakes are 
called for in a hurry. Such hasty cakes may also he 
made satisfactorily with Royal Baking Powder. 


Musu Barrer Cakes. 


One pint of mush (Indian meal), half a pint of flour, 
two eggs, a pinch of salt. Make up into a thin batter 


24 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


with sweet milk. Thick batter cakes are very unpalatable. 
Drop from a spoon, into round shape, on the griddle. 


EconomicaL BatrEerR CAKES. 


Three pints of flour and one pint of meal made into a 
batter with a pint and a half of milk and water lightened 
with a gill of yeast; add a teaspoonful of salt and a small 
- piece of butter or lard. Bake like flannel cakes on a 
griddle. 
Cream Cakes. 

Melt as much butter in a pint of milk as will make it 
as rich as cream; make the flour into a paste with this; 
knead well; roll it out frequently; cut in squares and bake 
on a griddle. 

Lartanp CaxEs, No. 1. 

Beat five eggs separately until perfectly light ; have 
ready sifted a good pint of flour; add half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and make into a batter with a pint of cream. To 
insure their lightness I have even whipped up the cream. 
Bake quickly in little tin patty-pans. Nothing in the 
shape of bread can be more delicate or tempting. This 
recipe was brought by Mrs. George Tucker from North- 
ampton County, Va. 


LapLanp Cakes, No. 2. 


One quart of milk, four eggs, to be beaten separately 
and made into a batter with a light quart of sifted family 
flour; bake in cups or-little tins. 

: Rice Caxes. . 

One pint of soft-boiled rice, half a pint of milk or 
water, add twelve spoonfuls of flour and a teaspoonful 
of salt, with a table-spoonful of butter; make out into 
small cakes, and bake in a brisk oven. 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 25 


CHOCOLATE CAKES. 


Put half a pound of nice brown sugar into a quart of 
flour; sift it and make it into a paste with four ounces of 
butter melted in as much milk as will wet it; knead it till 
light; roll it tolerably thin; cut it in strips an inch wide, 
and just long enough to lay in a plate; bake them on a 
griddle ; put them on the plate, in rows, to check each 
other, and serve them to eat with chocolate. 


Rick WAFFLES. 


One quart of flour, half a pint cupful of boiled rice, 
three eggs, and a very little butter. Make into a batter 
with milk and bake in waffle-irens ; salt to the taste. 


ORANGE CAKES. 


One quart of flour, one teacupful of meal, one cup of 
butter, half a pint of milk, three eggs, half a cup of yeast. 
Make up at night, and set to rise where it will not be apt 
to sour. In the morning bake in cups. 


FrannEL Cakes, No. 1. 


One quart of flour at night, two eggs, one large kitchen 
spoonful of yeast, sweet milk enough to make a thin bat- 
ter (provide one quart); beat all well together and set to 
rise. If the batter should become too thick, add a little 
more milk or water. 


FLANNEL Cakes, No. 2. 


When one has sour milk or buttermilk only to spare for 
cakes they may be made satisfactorily thus: one quart 
of sifted flour made into a batter with two eggs beaten 
light, a pint and a half of buttermilk, one, teaspoonful of 
salt, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut; for leav- 

2 


26 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





ening, put in last, dissolved in a little of the buttermilk, 
just enough soda to make the milk foam; stir in quickly 
and bake directly afterward; an even teaspoonful is the 
largest measure allowable to one quart of flour in these 


cakes. 
- INGLESIDE WAFFLES. 


(The Best Made.) 


Make one pint of Indian meal into mush the usual way; 
while hot put in a small lump of butter and a dessert- 
spoonful of salt ; set the mush aside to cool; meanwhile, 
beat separately till very light the whites and yolks of four 
eggs ; add the eggs to the mush, and cream in gradually 
one quart of wheaten flour ; add half a pint of buttermilk 
or sour cream, in which has been dissolved half a tea- 
spoonful of bicarbonate of soda; lastly, bring to the con- 
sistency of thin batter by the addition of sweet milk. 
Wafile-irons should be put on to heat an hour in advance, 
that they may be in a proper condition for baking so soon 
as the batter is ready. Have a brisk fire; butter the irons 
thoroughly, but with nicety, and. bake quickly. Fill the 
irons only half-full of batter, that the waffles may have 
room to rise. | 

GERMANTOWN PUFFS. 

Beat thoroughly the whites and yolks (separately) of 
six eggs till they stand alone; cream in by degrees nine 
table-spoonfuls of sifted flour; put in a tablespoonful of 
melted butter and a teaspoonful of salt; then make into 
a batter with one pint of sweet milk; grate in a delicate 
flavoring of nutmeg, if you like; bake in little patty-pans. 
For company you can choose no nicer bread. 


Cuanry’s Turn Biscuits, on Notions. 


Take one pint of flour and make into dough as soft as 
can be rolled with sweet milk, a salt-spoonful of salt, two 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 27 





ounces of butter, and two ounces of lard. Roll out into 
round cakes nine inches in diameter, and of wafer-like 
thinness; in baking do not allow them to brown, but 
remove from the oven while they retain their whiteness ; 
stick here and there with a fork, after rolling out, just as 
in case of other biscuits. These thin biscuits were highly 
esteemed in Virginia, being used frequently for tea, and 
were greatly in request for sending to any invalid or del- 
icate person ; for neighborly attentions of this kind were 
so common that an interchange of them was considered 
an essential condition of good neighborhood. 


CRACKERS. 


To three pints of flour put one teaspoonful of soda, 
dissolved in sour milk; shorten as you would biscuit- 
dough, with a table-spoonful of butter and lard mixed ; 
make the dough very stiff; beat it well and roll very 
thin; stick well over the whole surface, and bake slowly. 
Plainer ones are made in the same way, by omitting the 
soda and beating more. 


Eneuiso Murrins. 


The recipe here given is supposed really to have been 
brought over from England in Colonial days, for it has 
been in use among a few old families as far back as can 
be traced. As these little muffins are very plain and 
cheap, besides being a favorite bread wherever known, 
they should not be allowed to become a mere memory. 
The first thing in the morning let the cook take off from 
her light bread dough a piece large enough to make muf- 
fins enough for the family in whose service she is (one 
quart would suffice for ten persons); with sweet milk 
soften the dough into a rather stiff batter ; at this point 
judgment must be exercised to fix the consistency ; the 


28 ; VIRGINIA COOKLERY-BOOK. 


batter should be thin enough to drop from the spoon, but 
not spread too much; after one or two trials the cook — 
can certainly have it right, if she is careful ; the muffins 
should not be larger than a table-spoon, half an inch thick, 
and be torn apart for buttering, not cut; let the batter 
rise for an hour after mixing; bake on a griddle. 


JOUNNIE CAKE. 


Sift one quart of Indian meal into a pan.; make a hole 
in the middle and pour in a pint of warm water, adding 
one teaspoonful of salt ; with a spoon mix the meal and 
water gradually into a soft dough; stir it very briskly for 
a quarter of an hour or more, till it becomes light and 
spongy ; then spread the dough smooth and evenly on a 
straight, flat board (a piece of the head of a flour-barrel 
will serve for this purpose); place the board nearly up- 
right before an open fire, and put an iron against the back 
to support it; bake it well; when done cut it in squares; 
send it hot to table, split and buttered. 


Ricrt MuFrins.’ 


To half a pint of rice boiled soft add a teacupful of 
milk, three eggs well beaten, one table-spoonful of butter ; 
add as much flour as will make it the consistence of pound- 
cake batter; drop them about in the baking-pan so that 
they will not touch; they will bake in ten minutes, and 
do not require turning ; cook inside a stove. 


_. Rick Drop CaxKss. 


Half a pint of small hominy boiled, half a pint of milk, 
a pint of corn meal sifted, or rice flour, a large table- 
spoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Beat all 
well together, and drop on tin sheets, to be baked in a 
stove. 


/ , ; 
VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 29 





Port Royat Corn Cakes. 
(From a South Carolina Lady.) 


One pint of fine corn meal, four table-spoonfuls of 
wheat flour, one quart of milk, three eggs, a teaspoonful 
of salt. Mix the meal and flour smoothly and gradually 
with the milk; beat the eggs very light, and add them. 
Bake on a griddle, and serve hot. 


Nwun’s Purrs. 
(From a South Carolina Lady.) 


Two eggs, one table-spoonful of butter, one teacup of 
milk, one table-spoonful of lively yeast, one pint of wheat 
flour, and one teaspoonful of salt. Beat the eggs well and 
add the other ingredients. The consistency of the mixt- 
ure ought to be that of very soft bread-dough, so that 
it may be mixed with a spoon. A table-spoonful of 
sugar, if desired, may be added to the other ingredients. 
Bake in cups or small pans, in a moderate oven, about 
three-quarters of an hour. 


Corn MUuvrFFINs. 


To three pints of corn meal add a pint of blood-warm 
water, a teacupful of baker’s yeast, and a teaspoonful of 
salt. Mix all well together, and bake in rings. To be 
mixed at night, for use the next morning; and in the 
morning for evening use. 


Corn Murrixs (Quickly Made). 


One pint of corn meal sifted, one egg, and one pint of 
sweet milk, with a teaspoonful of butter and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Mix quickly, and bake in patty-pans or 
muffin-hoops. The whole process will not take more than 
twenty minutes. 


30 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





The same batter dropped from a spoon into cakes of 
oval shape, and baked in a stove-pan, makes what is fa- 
miliarly known in Virginia as a “scratch-back.” They 
are nice little corn cakes, can be made in a hurry, and 
serve well for a change. . 


Hoge CakkE. 


Three spoonfuls of small hominy or grits, two of rice 
flour, a teaspoonful of butter, and milk sufficient to make 
the mixture into a thin batter (half a pint would be about 
the proper thing); a salt-spoonful of salt. Bake on a hoe 


or hot griddle. 
| ALABAMA Rick BREAD. 


One pint of rice boiled soft, six eggs beaten light, one 
pint of milk, half a pint of corn meal, a table-spoonful of 
butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Rub the ingredients 
well together, and bake in small tins or muffin-rings. — 


EspeTaANncaA Corn BREAD. 


Boil three sweet potatoes of the common size (four, if 
not very sweet), and mash them up with a large spoonful 
of butter; to this add a teaspoonful of salt and an egg. 
When these have been well mixed put in three-quarters 
of a pint of corn flour, and beat the whole together, 
adding by degrees three gills of milk. While this is pre- 
paring the cover of a Dutch oven must be heated; and 
when the mixture is ready, which will be in ten minutes, 
it must be put into a skillet which has been previously 
greased and placed on hot coals to receive it; the cover 
must then be put on, with hot coals over the top. It will 
take about a quarter of an hour to bake, which must be 
done as soon as the mixture is prepared, or it will become 
hard. With sugar, wine, and butter as a sauce this loaf 
of corn bread makes a good pudding. ; 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. dl 


N.B.—The cook who uses a range or stove, and has 
any experience in baking, will find no difficulty in ac- 
commodating the above directions to the mode of baking 
to which she is used. 


EpGEMont WAFFLES. 


Three or five eggs, a large spoonful of butter, one pint 
of nice corn-meal mush, a quart and a half of flour, and 
milk enough to make a thin batter. 


Mrs. WALKER’S WAFFLES. 


Take two eggs, beat the yolks and whites separately, 
and one quart of flour. Mix them up with buttermilk, 
and, when ready to bake, put in a teaspoonful of soda. 


Rick WAFFLES. 


Boil two gills of rice quite soft, mix with it three gills 
of flour, a little salt, two ounces of melted butter, two 
eggs beaten well, and as much milk as will make it a 
thick batter. Beat it till very light, and bake it in waffle- 
irons. 

Warrtes Wirnout Heas. 

A table-spoonful of lard put into a teacupful of corn 
meal; pour scalding water on it until it is as thick as 
mush; put to this one pint of buttermilk, half a teaspoon- 
ful of soda, and one pint of flour. They are very nice if 
well made. 

TEA Cakes Wirnovur Kees. 

Two teacups of sugar, one of butter, one of sour cream, 
one teaspoonful of soda, and as much flour as will make 
a soft dough. 

Vireinia Eoaa Brea. . 

Take six table-spoonfuls of flour and three of corn meal, 

with half a teaspoonful of salt; sift them, and make a 


32 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


thin batter with four eggs and about a pint of sweet milk 
from which the cream has not been skimmed. If your 
milk is thin and poor, add a dessert-spoonful of butter. 
Bake in little tin moulds or pie-plates ina quick oven. 


Hominy Batrer CAKES. 


Boil one pint of small hominy or grits very soft; add 
an equal quantity of corn meal, with a teaspoonful of salt 
and a table-spoonful of butter; make it into a thin bat- 
ter with three eggs and a sufficient quantity of milk— 
that is to say, at least one quart, perhaps three pints. 
Beat all together some time, and bake them on a griddle, 
as dropped from a spoon, or in wafile-irons. When well 
made, and baked very thin, these cakes are luscious, espe- 
cially when eaten with maple or other nice syrup. When 
eggs cannot be procured yeast makes a good substitute. 
Put a large spoonful in the batter, and let it stand several 
hours to rise. : 

“3 SHORT Cazzs, . 

These cakes differ from biscuits only in being rolled 
generally into an oval shape and baked upon a griddle, 
on the outside of a stove, instead of in the oven. With pre- 
serves and a glass of milk short cakes answer well for an 
impromptu dessert. The quicker they are made and baked 
the better. 

Bust Rick Gripe Cakes. 

One and a half pints of solid cold boiled rice; put, the 
night before you want the cakes for breakfast, in a pint 
of water or milk to'soak. The-next morning add a quart 
of flour, a quart of milk, two well-beaten eggs, and half a 
teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, with one teaspoonful 
of salt. Dissolve the soda in a little hot water, stir it into 
the milk and rice; then add the other ingredients, and 
bake quickly on a hot griddle. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 33 


To GREASE A GRIDDLE. 


The best method of doing this is to take a bit of salt 
pork and rub it over the griddle with a fork. This pre- 
vents adhesion, and yet does not allow the fat to soak 
into what is cooked. Nothing so soon sickens one as the 
taste of burnt grease that careless cooks so often give to 
breakfast cakes by the improper handling of lard. 


Mrs. Casretw’s Batter BreEAp. 


_Make one pint of nice Indian meal into a stiff mush, 
and add to it a teaspoonful of salt. Thin it with three 
well-beaten eggs and sour milk. Stir in a table-spoonful 
of butter and a teaspoonful of saleratus, or half a tea- 
spoonful of soda. 


InpIAN Meat Batrer CaKkeEs. 


Scald one pint of sifted meal; mix with half a pint 
of wheat flour and a dessert-spoonful of salt; thin the 
mixture with three well-beaten eggs and some sour milk. 
Beat the whole well together till very light, and add a 
dessert-spoonful of saleratus dissolved in warm water. 


EXcELLENT MUFFINS. 


One quart of flour, two eggs, one gill of yeast, and wa- 
ter enough to make a thin dough, with a little salt. Bake 
them in drops, in an oven, for they cannot rise sufficiently 
on a griddle. 

BREAKFAST CAKES. 

A pint and a quarter of flour, half a pint of Indian 
meal, one pint of milk, one gill of yeast. Make up at 
night for breakfast next morning. In the morning add 
one egg; bake on a griddle. They much resemble flan- 
nel cakes. 

3* 


o4 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


A Favorite Murr in. 


One quart of flour, the whites of two eggs beaten very 
light, one pint of milk, a table-spoonful of lard or but- 
ter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Put the milk on the fire 
with the lard, and let it get warm, not hot. Stir in the 
white of egg and flour into the milk, and, after all is 
mixed, put in the yeast. 


Por-overs. (Fine for Tea.) 


Four cups of flour, four of milk, four eggs. The whites 
and yolks are to be beaten separately, a small table-spoon- 
ful of melted butter added, and a teaspoonful of salt. Put 
the batter in cups or small tin pans, and bake quickly. 


DELICATE CRACKERS. 


Two pints of flour, one pint of sweet cream, yolks of 
three eggs. Roll out thin, stick, and bake like any other 
thin biscuit. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 35 


CHAPTER III. 
COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE. 


To Boil Coffee, No. 1.—To Boil Coffee, No. 2.—French Coffee.— 
Vienna Coffee.— Green Tea.— Black Tea.— Latest Fashion for 
Making Black Tea.— Cold Tea.— Chocolate, No. 1.— Chocolate, 
No. 2.—Chocolate, No. 3. 


CoFFEE. 


THERE are few house-keepers who do not believe that 
they already know the very best mode of preparing cof- 
fee; and yet those who have not examined into it would 
hardly believe how various are the methods resorted to 
for making this every-day drink. 

Despite the claim of Americans to English descent, 
they much more nearly resemble the French in choosing 
coffee for their daily beverage instead of tea. In old 
Virginia coffee was served for breakfast, and tea only 
for the evening meal; now, coffee is generally found, 
with tea, morning and evening at the tables of all well- 
to-do people. The experience of thirty years as a house- 
keeper does not lessen the diffidence with which advice 
is offered upon a process concerning which authorities so 
greatly differ; and yet what little knowledge has been 
gained should not be withheld, for it is by careful atten- 
tion to these little matters of continual recurrence that 
the comfort of domestic life is insured. 

The divergence of taste begins at the outset, when the 
kind of coffee is to be selected. Most persons who con- 
sult taste only will prefer Java, Mocha, or a mixture of 
both; although the majority of the world (who must con- 
sider the cost) will agree that La Guayra answers every 


36 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


purpose, or else be satisfied to use the skilfully prepared 
compounds that are furnished by reliable manufacturers, 
such as Arbuckle and Thurber, finding it a great economy 
to have their coffee not only roasted, but clarified, ready 
for use. Arbuckle’s glazing really preserves the flavor 
and strength of the bean unimpaired. Always keep your — 
roasted coffee in a closely-covered tin box, removed from 
anything that could impart a taste to it. No skill can 
make good coffee out of an indifferent article. Unless 
you have great experience, make your purchases of some 
groger upon whose judgment you can rely. 

The next disputed point is as to whether coffee shall be 
dripped or boiled. The French drip, the English boil ; 
Americans do both. If you prefer dripped coffee, it is 
best to procure a coffee-pot, or “biggin,” from some 
house - furnishing establishment, for there are excellent 
ones patented for this very purpose. The “Old Domin- 
ion” is one that we have seen tested and proved good. 
Many object that dripping makes coffee cold; but this 
may be remedied by placing a lighted alcohol lamp be- 
neath your coffee-urn. Dripping certainly best preserves 
the aroma of the bean, but, some think, does not extract 
its whole virtue. By either process the usual quantity 
allowed for a strong cup of coffee is a table-spoonful after 
it is ground. Half a pint of coffee is enough to make six 
strong cups. 

The great difficulty a house- keeper experiences is in 
getting a cook who will be honest in the matter of using 
up all the coffee supplied her. So great, in fact, is this 
difficulty with regard to roasting it, that, in desperation, 
most people take refuge in purchasing coffee ready roast- 
ed. Coffee should increase one-third in bulk under the 
process of roasting; yet this rule is not invariable. If 
the fire be too slow, and the coffee-grains by any acci- 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 37 


dent are damp, they will swell scarcely at all. Connois- 
seurs roast their coffee at home every day, just before it 
is used; but the usual way is to roast enough for a week’s 
supply, and if wetted with white of egg soon after being 
withdrawn from the fire, while yet warm, it will as no 
other clearing. 

Coffee should be roasted till evenly colored a mahog- 
any-brown, not black. See, however, that itis sufficiently 
done to be readily ground, which will not be the case if 
it is white inside. 

Coffee-urns or plated pots of any sors Bowl be emp- 
tied and cleaned out immediately after each meal, and 
invariably scalded just before being used again. The 
more brightly their surfaces are kept polished the mgre 
easily will the coffee be kept hot, one of the conditions 
most essential to its excellence. 


To Bor Corres, No. 1. 


To make two quarts take half a pound of ground coffee, 
put it into a coffee-pot that will hold a gallon, the best 
shape being. one with a broad base and narrow mouth. 
Pour the right quantity of water upon it, which should be — 
fresh and boiling at the time. Stir well, and let it boil up 
twice; when it rises near the brim stir it repeatedly, to 
prevent its running over; pour out some, but return it to 
the pot, repeating this three times, in order to clear the 
spout. Put it on the fire again, and, when it boils, dash a 
gill of cold water into it; take it off instantly, and let it 
stand a few minutes to clear itself.. Have a little cap fit- 
ted over the top of the coffee-pot spout, attached to it by 
a little chain. 

To Bow Corres, No. 2. 

Grind a teacupful of coffee in the evening, and, hay- 

ing first seen that your coffee-pot has been thoroughly 


38 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. ° 


cleansed and scalded, put in your ground coffee, with a 
little white of egg and a crushed egg-shell, if it has not 
been already glazed with egg, and pour over it three 
pints of fresh, cold spring water. Cover up, excluding 
every particle of air, and in the morning, about half an 
hour before breakfast, set the pot on the back part of the 
stove, and let it come to a boil only just when you are 
ready to send it to the table. 

By this plan of infusion all of the virtue in the coffee 
seems to be brought out, It is an admirable method. 


COFFEE. 
(Mrs. Randolph, of Monticello.) 


To one measure of coffee meal pour three measures of 
boiling water; boil it on hot ashes mixed with coals till 
the meal subsides; pour it three times through a flannel 
strainer; it will yield two and a half measures of clear 
coffee. This recipe is given because it has more of in- 
terest than most autographs, having been copied from the 
MS. book of the daughter who was at the head of Mr. 
Jefferson’s household during the many years that he dis- 
pensed such generous and elegant hospitality at his Mon- 
ticello home. 

FRENcH COFFEE. } 

In the first place, let the coffee be roasted only until it 
is of a cinnamon color; do not grind fine, and, where one 
chooses to pound the beans in a mortar, there is said to 
be advantage of more of the aroma retained than in the 
usual method. For two persons, place three table-spoon- 
fuls of coffee, freshly roasted and coarsely ground, in the 
filter of a French coffee-pot; pour over it a pint of lively 
boiling water; set the coffee-pot where its contents will 
keep hot, but noé boil. When all has dripped through, 
pour it off into a small pitcher and return to the pot, 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 39 


where it may again pass through the broken grounds and 
gain the proper strength. Keep hot, and serve promptly. 

Coffee thus made without cream or milk is the café 
noir, which is the last thing served at a dinner-party. 
When used with hot boiled milk it becomes café-au-lait, 
and is indispensable at a French breakfast-table. <A trav- 
eller observes that in Paris each cup is filled by a simul- 
taneous stream of both liquids, poured from separate 
vessels, and says that somehow there results an incom- 


parably good drink. 
CoFFEE. 


(Monsieur Soyer.) 


To make one pint, put two ounces of ground coffee 
into a stewpan or small iron or tin saucepan, which set 
dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee with a wood- 
en spoon until it is quite hot through, but not in the least 
burnt; then pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover 
close, and let stand by the side of the fire (but not to 
boil) for five minutes, when strain it through a piece of 
cotton cloth. Place it on the fire, and when nearly boiling 
serve it with hot milk or cream. To one pint of coffee 
the French add one pint of boiling milk, and warm both 
together till nearly boiling for breakfast. Cream or a 
little cold milk are used for dinner. 


VIENNA COFFEE. 


Whip to a stiff froth half a pint of rich cream, sweet- 
ening it with two teaspoonfuls of white powdered sugar, 
and fill a small bowl with it. 

Meanwhile, for a party of four, prepare a quart of cafe- 
au-lait by directions given before, sweetened as usual 
with loaf-sugar. Lay lightly on the top of each cup 
enough whipped cream to cover the whole surface, and 
stir slightly from the bottom before drinking. By gen- 


40 VIR GINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


eral consent, coffee thus prepared is delicious. When 
cream cannot be obtained a substitute often used is to 
whip up very lightly the whites of two eggs, and mix 
them with half a cup of cold milk sweetened. This put 
on each cup of café-au-lait, in meringue fashion, looks 
pretty and tastes well, although not pretending to. nia 
pure cream. , 
GREEN TEA. 

Virginians, as a rule, still prefer green tea, and make it 
after an old fashion, thus: Put the kettle on over a brisk 
fire, allowing it just time to boil vigorously before tea- 
time. Use fresh spring-water, that should by all means be 
soft. As soon as it boils scald out the teapot and, allow- 
ing one teaspoonful for each person, with an extra one 
“for the pot,” put the tea in, and, pouring over it half a 
dipperful of the boiling water, cover it up close and leave 
it todraw. In five minutes fill up the pot, and serve with 
as little delay as possible. 

It is nice to have an alcohol burner under your tea-urn; 
to keep its contents boiling hot, but this luxury may be 
supplied in two other ways. First, you may make at 
home what is called “a bonnet” for your teapot, which is 
a quilted bag thrown over it, having a slit left for the 
spout, and being closed by strings drawn together at the 
bottom. A second perfect substitute is found in a Chi- 
nese teapot in a basket case, lined and quilted with wool- 
len or silk goods. This keeps tea hot for twelve hours, 
and richly pays for itself in the comfort insured. 


Buack TRA. 


Proceed with black tea exactly as with green, except 
that you let it actually boil up briskly a minute or two 
before putting it upon the table. - Allow twenty minutes 
for tea-making from the time that the kettle first begins 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 41 


to boil. The fresher the water and quicker the process, 
the better the tea. Use a dessert-spoonful of black tea 
where a teaspoonful of green would suffice. In bulk a 
pound of black tea is double one of green. 

English Breakfast is considered the choicest variety by 
real lovers of black tea. Oolong is preferred where one 
wishes to have the taste of green and the virtues of black. 


TEA. 
(Monsieur Soyer.) 

Put your tea in a pot a quarter of an hour before you 
are ready for it; set it in an oven or by the fire, warming 
both tea and pot; pour in boiling water (fresh from hy- 
drant or spring), and leave it from three to five minutes 
to draw. 


Latest Fasnion ror Maxine Brack Tra. 


Put two table-spoonfuls of tea in a quart of cold water 
in the teapot in which it is to be sent into the break- 
fast-room. Set it on the fire after it has steeped a few 
minutes, and let it actually boil for half an hour. Place 
lumps of loaf-sugar and cream (for those who like it) in 
the bottom of the cups, when helping, just as it is custom- 
ary for the lady of the house to do in case of coffee, filling 
up with the tea afterward. The decoction is very strong, 
of course, but of delicious flavor and refreshing effect, in 
the opinion of some connoisseurs. 


Cotp TEA. 


The use of tea as a cooling drink originated in Vir- 
ginia, and is well-nigh universal there as soon as warm 
weather begins. Most ladies provide it simply by pre- 
paring for breakfast more tea than they need. They 
then pour off what is left in the teapot into a clean quart- 


e 


42 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





bottle, which is set in the ice-chest until wanted for the 
lunch or teatable. Fora set table it may be emptied into 
a decanter, or, if handed by a servant from the side-table, 
poured from the same bottle. 

Ice and sugar are generally put into each goblet, just 
as they are served, and often with the addition of a thin 
slice of fresh lemon to each glass. But this is a most ex- 
travagant mode, as the sugar only partially melts: more is 
heaped in, and hence quantities wasted, if the company is 
at all large. Now, if one will only take the small trouble 
of sweetening each cup in the ordinary way while the tea 
is hot, the taste will be in no way injured, and two-thirds 
less sugar be required than is called for by the other 
method. 

If enough tea is not left over from one meal to serve 
for another, make fresh in good time to get thoroughly 
cold. Although hot tea is sometimes cooled for immedi- 
ate use, much ice is required and useless waste involved. 


CuocoxtaTe, No. 1. 


To be good, chocolate must be of fine quality and fresh. 
Maillard, Epps, and Baker are all reliable manufacturers. 
If one buys a supply to last some months, as much pains 
should be taken to exclude air from it as in the case of tea. 

Scrape two ounces of Maillard’s chocolate ; put it into 
a stewpan with a gill of water; keep stirring it with a 
wooden spoon until rather thick ; then work it quickly 
with the spoon (or mill with a little churn made expressly 
for the purpose), stirring in half a pint of boiling milk. 
Serve hot, with sugar separate. 


Cuoco.LatTs, No. 2. 


Scrape two ounces of chocolate and pit it over the fire 
in a pint of water; stir till mixed, and let it boil a few 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 43 





minutes, then add one pint of unskimmed milk, and while 
it is coming to a boil beat up light the yolk of an egg, 
with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. As soon as the 
chocolate boils pour a little of it gradually to the egg until 
it is mixed smooth, then return all to the fire, and stirring 
briskly, let it remain there five minutes, when it should 
be sent to table without delay. Flavor with ten drops 
of extract of vanilla the last thing. More sugar can be 
added at table, if needed. ‘This chocolate is amply rich 
for most tastes, but for persons who prefer it very thick 
and smooth we add a recipe that has been much admired. 


Cuocoiate, No. 3. 


Baker’s Chocolate melts so easily under exposure to 
heat that one need not trouble to grate it up, but merely 
break it into small pieces. With a little hot water then 
make a paste of a quarter of a pound of Baker’s Choco- 
late and put it on the fire to boil, with two quarts of rich, 
fresh milk and a quarter of a pound of sugar, unless you 
prefer to sweeten it at table; when about to boil add to 
the chocolate a heaping table-spoonful of Oswego corn 
starch, previously made smooth with a very little cold 
water; stir, and let the chocolate remain on the fire until 
very thick; flavor either with half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract, or boil a small bit of cinnamon in the milk, if you 
prefer that spice for a change. 


44 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER IV. 
EGGS. 


Soft- boiled Eggs.—Hard-boiled Eggs.— Poached Eggs.— Omelet 
Plain.—A Very Superior Omelet.—Baked Eggs.—Shirred Eggs.— 
Deviled Eggs.—Scrambled Eggs.—Eggs 4 la Créme.—Omelet of 
Eggs.— Beef Omelet.— Potato Omelet.— Ham Omelet.— Stuffed 
Eggs. 

SOFT-BOILED Haas. 

ALTHOUGH one of the simplest articles of food, there is 
nevertheless art in preparing a soft-boiled egg—so great 
an art that every householder is advised to provide her- 
self with an egg-boiler. This is a little apparatus made 
of block-tin, furnished with 2 receptacle for hot water and 
a two-storied waiter for holding at least one dozen eggs. 
On top of the handle, around which the lid fits closely, 
rests a three-minute glass, enabling one to judge precisely 
of the time that his egg has been boiling, provided always 
that the water is assuredly boiling when poured over the 
eggs. The taste of the persons for whom the eggs are 
cooked must be ascertained and particularly attended to, 
if satisfaction is to be expected from the process. For 
most persons one minute and a half is allowed for having 
them just right ; but others, again, like only one minute, 
and yet others two. When soft-boiled eggs are served 
there should be placed conveniently a pat of fresh butter, 
the pepper-cruet, salt-cellar, and a plate of cold loaf-bread. 


Harp-BoILep Eaas. 


Drop the eggs into boiling water, and in five minutes 
they will be hard, over a quick fire ; but, since nothing is 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOL. 45 


more disagreeable than to find the yolk only half hard, it 
does no harm to leave them longer. Indeed, of late there 
has been broached a theory that eggs are most digestible 
when boiled for two hours. We mention it that those 
may test it who choose, not having made the trial our- 
selves. If you desire to peel your hard-boiled eggs easily, 
drop them into cold water and leave them there until you 
are ready to slice or otherwise use them. 


Poacurp Eaas. 


Kges are poached by dropping them raw from the 
broken shells into a pot of boiling water ; lift them from 
the water in a perforated ladle, and do not let them 
remain long enough in the water for the whites to be 
made opaque. The beauty of a poached egg is the visi- 
bility of the yellow yolk as seen through the semi-trans- 
parent white envelope. Served on a slice of hot buttered 
toast, and lightly sprinkled with pepper, a poached egg is 
most appetizing. In the spring of the year, as a top- 
dressing to boiled greens of any kind, eggs prepared this 
way are almost universally liked. 


OMELET PLAIN. 


Break six eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and 
beat. each as light as possible, for on this depends the 
delicacy of the dish ; mix them, and add a. salt-spoonful 
of salt ; put them into a heated and greased saucepan with 
a handle ; dot a little butter here and there as the omelet 
cooks ; when brown, if you can depend upon your sleight- 
of-hand, toss and return it upside down to the skillet; but 
as this is rather a difficult task to the inexperienced, you 
may do it very nicely by setting the skillet inside your 
ordinary oven and letting it brown there. Fold up witha 
fork, and serve hot. 


46 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


A VERY SUPERIOR OMELET. 


Six eggs, beaten separately, one cup of milk, one tea- 
spoonful of flour mixed in a little of the milk, one table- 


spoonful of melted butter, pepper and salt. After stirring | 


well together, add the whites of the eggs, and bake in a 
pan in a quick oven. 


Baxep Eaes. 


With a clean rag dipped in melted butter wipe over the 
surface of a pie-plate, and then place on it a good layer 
of bread-crumbs thick enough to cover the bottom; then 
carefully break as many eggs as will cover the bread- 
crumbs without touching one another, and, after covering 
them with another layer of bread-crumbs and butter, pow- 
dered with pepper and salt, put into an oven, and in five 
minutes they will be set and nicely done. ; 


SuirRED Eaas. 


Proceed as with baked eggs, only the bread-crumbs are 
omitted; and hence the dish is yet more delicate, and pe- 
culiarly suited to please the taste of invalids, whose appe- 
tites need coaxing. 

Dervitep Eaes. 


Boil the eggs hard, and then cut them in halves; take 
out the yolks carefully, without breaking the whites; put 
the yolks in a small bowl, with a little pepper, salt, mus- 
tard, and vinegar—a very little of the last; beat them 
to a smooth paste with creamed butter. The quantity of 
seasoning must be proportioned to the number of eggs 
prepared, as your judgment will dictate. If you have 
not allowed butter enough to make the eggs creamy, add 
just a little milk or cream. Now return the prepared 
yolks to the whites, put them into a baking - dish, and 
then into a hot oven to brown. 


ye 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 4% 





SCRAMBLED Eaas. 


One of the plainest ways of cooking eggs, but one of 
the best. Heat an iron skillet and grease it with a little 
melted butter; having your eggs ready broken in a dish 
near the fire, pour them in, and stir them briskly for five 
or six minutes until they are prettily mixed and done to 
your taste. Just before you take them from the skillet 
add a seasoning of a table-spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a good sprinkling of black pepper to a dozen 
eggs. ‘This will make a dish for about eight persons of 
moderate appetite. 


Eees A LA Crime. 

Boil twelve eggs just hard enough to cut up into slices; 
cover the bottom of a baking-dish with crumbs of grated 
bread ; upon these place a layer of eggs, strewing each 
such layer with bread - crumbs, pepper, and salt; put a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, with a little flour well 
rubbed into it, in a saucepan, with a little chopped pars- 
ley (if liked and in season), salt, pepper, and half a pint 
of sweet cream; stir it over the fire until it begins to boil; 
then pour at once over the eggs; set it in an oven, and, 
when nicely browned, send to table. 


OMELET OF Eaas. 


Twelve eggs, twelve table-spoonfuls of fresh milk, one 
lump of butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to the 
taste. A teaspoonful of salt and a quarter as much pep- 
per would be safe measures to try. Beat up your eggs 
thoroughly, the yolks and whites separately; add the 
milk, pepper, and salt to the yolks, and beat in the whites 
after all are light; put the butter into the pan, and, when 
melted, pour in the eggs; do not stir them, but let them 
brown. When the eggs are cooked fold over the omelet, 
and let its own heat cook the inside. 


48 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


BEEF OMELET. 


_ One pound of fresh beef, three large crackers rolled 
fine, two eggs well beaten, one ounce of butter. Chop 
the meat up very fine; mix it with the crackers and eggs, 
and season them with salt, pepper, and any herbs that you 
may like—half a teaspoonful of sage and summer savory — 
each, for instance; then make up into an omelet-like loaf, 
and bake for a half an hour; baste often with butter in 


the pan. 
P Porato OMELET. 


To a teacupful of Irish potatoes, mashed smooth, with 
a small lump of butter and two table-spoonfuls of milk, 
add five eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately as 
light as possible; add a teaspoonful of salt, and grate in 
a little nutmeg, besides adding a sprinkling of black pep- 
per; lastly, squeeze in a very little lemon-juice, and fry in 
a skillet, greased and heated before you pour in the ome- 

let. They brown nicely, and should be served promptly. 


Ham OMELET, 


Take six ounces of cold boiled ham and mince very 
fine, adding a little pepper for seasoning; beat six eggs 
light, yolks and whites separately; have ready some hot 
lard in a pan; put the omelet in to fry, and when done 
serve on a heated dish, folded over like a half-moon; set 
it inside your oven to brown on top. It should only re- 
quire ten or fifteen minutes in the cooking. 


StuFFED Eaas. 


Boil your eggs perfectly hard, and cut them in two, in 
an oblong shape; take out the yolks; mash them up with 
powdered crackers and butter enough to make them hold 
together ;.add celery-seed, mustard, salt, and pepper to 
taste; fill the whites with the mixture; bake them to a 
light brown. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. ‘49 


CHAPTER V. 
OYSTERS. 


Oysters Raw.— To Stew Oysters.—To Broil Oysters.— To Roast 
Oysters.—Scolloped Oysters.—Baked Oysters.—Oyster Patty.— 
Oyster Fritters.—To Fry Oysters.—To Make Oyster Loaves.— 
Terrapin Stew.—To Pickle Oysters.—Oyster Soup.—Richmond 
Way of Pickling Oysters.— Cream Oysters. pe enor Oyster 
Pie.—A Ragout of Oysters. 


Oysters Raw. 


No person is thought properly to appreciate oysters 
who does not relish them raw. When they are in sea- 
son no dinner-party is thought complete where they are 
not served as an appetizer in advance of the first course. 
Several of them are laid in a tiny plate or imitation shell 
beside each cover, with a slice of lemon as a garnish. 
Pepper slightly, but add no salt. Raw oysters should be 
eaten as fresh from the shell as possible; hence it is well 
to have them brought to the house, and there opened with 
oyster-tongs just before they are sent to table. In cases 
of nausea and dysentery they are highly medicinal. 


To Srew OYSTERS. 


Put the oysters on to cook in their own liquor for five 
minutes; add one cup of milk to one quart of oysters, 
and a little pepper and mustard—just enough to flavor 
delicately ; keep the top of the stewpan down tightly ; 
just before they are done add a salt-spoonful of salt, as 
it hardens the oysters if put in at first. Fifteen minutes 
is abundance of time to cook them in. They a are done 

when they. appear ruffled around the edges. 

When sent to table let them be accompanied by a plate 

: 3 


50 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


of oyster crackers, or nice fresh crackers of any kind you 
like. Plain soda crackers are very good, and if the least 
stale they may be freshened up by being toasted in a 
stove-pan for a few minutes. 


To Brom Oysters. 


Take the finest and largest oysters and lay them upon a 
cloth to drain dry; sprinkle them with pepper; have ready 
a gridiron to put over a clear fire; place the oysters upon 
its bars, with a very little butter, and cook until they are 
done and dry, without being in the least burnt; lay them 
in a small, flat dish upon slices of toast, cut thin and deli- 
cately buttered. Oysters cooked in this way are regarded 
by epicures as a great dainty. 


To Roast Oysters. 


Many think that there is no way of cooking oysters 
comparable to roasting them in the shell. It is rather 
an inconvenient method, because, with one fire and one 
cook, it is difficult to supply enough for more than a very 
small company—say, four or five—without trying the pa- 
tience unreasonably. ‘The oysters, in their shells, must be 
cast into a bed of hot ashes on coals, and there stay for 
about ten minutes, when a servant trained to it can dex- 
terously open the shells with a pair of tongs made for the 
purpose, sending them to the waiting guests with all pos- 
sible speed. Each person has placed conveniently to him 
butter, pepper, salt, and bread, a hot half-shell serving as 
an oyster-plate, and by common consent the le. 1s pro- 
nounced to be one of the choicest. 


SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. 


Genuine scolloped oysters must also be served on 
the shell, one to each individual. Have as many shells 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 51 


washed and wiped as you have persons at table; in the 
bottom of the shells place a layer of oysters, cover with 
bits of butter, bread-crumbs, and a sprinkling of pepper 
and celery salt; add another layer of oysters, etc., finish- 
ing off with grated bread-crumbs; then put the shells 
in a well-heated oven and bake till they are prettily 
browned. | 
BaxkEpD OYSTERS. 

Baked oysters are precisely like scolloped ones, only a 
baking-dish is used large enough to supply a whole com- 
pany, instead of the shells, which cannot always be pro- 
cured in parts of the country remote from the oyster 
fisheries, 

OysTER Parry. 

Make a nice pastry precisely as you would for chicken 
pie, allowing two quarts of flour for it, and a pound of 
butter, if you are preparing a gallon dish for a company 
of as many as twelve persons. Provide three quarts of 
oysters and put them on to stew half done, with a pint of 
milk and half of their own liquor, before they are enclosed | 
in the pastry. When you think they are about half done 
line the dish with pastry and fill it two-thirds full with 
the oysters, adding a quarter of a pound of butter broken 
up with a seasoning of pepper and celery salt; sprinkle 
thickly over with flour, and lay on a top crust. Bake 
quickly and steadily for half or three-quarters of an hour, 
or until you perceive that the pie is nicely done. 


OystTER FRITTERS. 


A pint and a half of milk, a pound and a quarter of 
flour, four eggs The yolks of the eggs are to be beaten 
light first, then the milk and flour added, then all stirred 
smoothly together. Afterward whisk up the whites of 
the eggs until very light and add them to the batter, 


52 ‘VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


a little ata time. Take a spoonful of the batter, drop an 
oyster into it, and fry it in hot lard. Let them be a light 
brown on both sides. ‘The oysters should not be put into 
the batter all at once, as they would thin it. Allow 
enough lard for the fritters to actually boil in it, for then 
they absorb hardly any, and what you use one time may 
be strained and used again. It is poor economy to do 
things so that they shall not please when done. ~One 
pound of lard would not be too much to allow for cook- 
ing this quantity. | 
To Fry OYsTeErs. 

Choose the very largest, finest oysters you can get, 
Black River or Lynn Haven Bay, if accessible; spread 
them on a coarse linen cloth laid out upon a board to dry 
for some hours before proceeding to fry them. When, 
ready pepper the oysters, roll them in corn meal, and drop 
them for frying into a skillet half full of melted lard. 
Drain and serve promptly. Some persons roll them in 
cracker or bread crumbs after dipping the oysters in the 
yolk of egg, and also add a little chopped parsley for 
seasoning ; but some cooks complain that under this mode 
of treatment they become brittle, and say that simple corn 
meal is much more satisfactory. 

The excellence of the dish necessarily depends upon 
the quality of the oyster, and, since frying is the most 
undesirable mode in which food can be prepared, if health 
is considered, we should resort to it but rarely, even to 
procure so luscious a morsel as is a well-fried oyster. 


To Maker Oyster Loaves. 

(Mrs. Maria Randolph.) | 
Take small loaves of light bread, cut off the tops, scrape 
out all the crumb, then put some oysters into a stewpan 
with the crumb of the loaves, a little water, and a good 


dealer 


oo“ Pe 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 53 


lump of butter; stew them together ten or fifteen min- 
utes, then put in a spoonful of good cream, fill your loaves, 
lay the bit of crust carefully on again, and set them in the 
oven to crisp. Three are enough for a side-dish. 


TERRAPIN STEW. 


The terrapin here spoken of is the salt-water terrapin, 
found abundantly and in perfection on the shores of the 
Chesapeake Bay, and regarded as a delicacy superior 
even to the finest oysters. They are thrown alive into 
boiling water—but, as they die instantaneously, this is not 
so cruel as it seems—and there they are left to boil until 
the meat begins to loosen from the skin. Take out the 
terrapins and let them drain until cool enough to handle. 
Remove the shell carefully or you will break the gall, and 
thus lose your labor, as the least bit of gall spoils the dish. 
You will find the gall in the vicinity of the liver. Every 
particle of the terrapin is edible save that portion next 
the gall. 

To about two large or four small terrapins add a half- 
cup of sherry wine and a cupful of port wine, a teacupful 
of butter, a teacupful of currant or similar fruit-jelly, a 
dessert-spoon nearly full of Worcestershire sauce, a little 
Cayenne pepper (no black pepper), and salt to your taste. 
Stew all these things together, and, just.as you think it 
to be thoroughly cooked, pour in a cupful of pure, fresh 
cream}; stir it well in, and as soon as the cream gets hot 
and well mixed with the dressing you can serve it. For 
this purpose a regular metal or silver stew-dish is to be 
preferred, with an alcohol lamp attached; use mustard to 
your taste, but take care not to let it predominate. 

N.B.—The above recipe was kindly furnished by a Nor- 
folk gentleman, who, keeping a bachelor’s establishment, 
is famed for having the most delicious terrapin stews at 


54 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





his suppers. He appends to it, deprecatingly, this remark: 
‘For my own part I never make the dressing by rule, de- 
pending always on my taste. Perhaps it would be a bet- 
ter plan to mix all the ingredients for seasoning, as di- 
rected above, in a small pitcher, and add a little at a time 
until it suits your own ideas of what is good.” 


To PickLtEe OysTERs. 
(Portsmouth Recipe.) 


Put your oysters in a porcelain kettle, in their own liq- 
uor, and cook them until the edges curl up, which shows 
that they are done, for it is important not to let them get 
overdone and soft. As soon as they are done take them 
from their own liquor and drop them into a pan full of 
cold water, and there let them remain for about ten min- 
utes; then spread them on a board to drain. Sprinkle salt 
over them on the board. Then take half their liquor and 
an equal quantity of vinegar and put them on the fire to 
boil, together with as many red pepper-pods, cloves, and 
blades of mace as you think will be enough to flavor 
them. After these things have all boiled up well once 
set them away in a china bowl to become cold. Just be- 
fore removing them from the fire drop in a lemon cut 
into thin slices. When the liquor has quite cooled pour 
it over the oysters, and cover them, to exclude the air as 
much as possible. 


OOVEUOTS Yoo wisden gi Ad auties nds 1 gal. CIOVES...... « sia55 ae 1 oz. 

BOC RE cic areacee dase aieh 1 qt. Mace... .. aga eee 4 02. 

PGUORe. were ss Se rele 1 qt. Pepper-pods (small-sized). 6 
LeMODS3, i505 5 ste 1. 


OystTzR Soup. 


Boil one gallon of oysters in their own liquor until 
quite done. Add one quart. of rich morning’s milk, the 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 55 





yolks of four eggs, two good table-spoonfuls of butter 
and one of flour, all mixed well together, but in this or- 
der—first the milk, then, after beating the eggs, add a 
little of the hot liquor to them gradually, and stir them 
rapidly into the soup. Lastly, add the butter and what- 
ever seasoning you fancy besides plain pepper and salt, 
which must both be put in to taste with caution. Celery- 
salt most persons like extremely; others would prefer a 
little marjoram and thyme; others, again, mace and a bit 
of onion. Use your own discretion in this regard. 


Ricumonp Way or PIcKkLING OYSTERS. 


To one gallon of oysters allow one pint of vinegar, two 
grated nutmegs, eight blades of mace, three dozen cloves, 
a dozen and a half of peppers, half a salt-spoonful of Cay- 
enne pepper, a lemon and a half. Put the oysters in hot 
water, scald them, and, when hot through, drop them into 
cold water, to plump them; then drain them through a 
colander. ‘Take a quart and a half of the liquor, let it 
boil; skim it well, then add the seasoning. Put the 
oysters in a jar and pour the liquor over them hot. 


CrEAM OYSTERS. 


Five hundred of the largest and finest. oysters; lift 
them out of thé liquor one at a time; lay them in a 
deep pan; strain the liquor, and boil one half of it. 
Have ready three-quarters of a pound of the best. butter, 
divided into lumps, and each slightly rolled in a little 
flour, which add to the boiling liquor, and, when they are 
melted, stir the whole well, and put in the oysters; as 
soon as they come to a boil take them out. Then add 
three pints of cream very gradually to the liquor, stirring 
all the time, and give it another boil, seasoning it with 
celery-salt and pepper or nutmeg. When it has again 


56 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


boiled return the oysters to it, and simmer them a few 
minutes—just long enough to heat them. One of the 
daintiest ways in which oysters can be served on special 
occasions. ? 

BattmmMore OysTER Pin. 

Make a crust after the directions given for puff paste, 
grease the bottom of a baking-dish, cover it with paste, 
then season two quarts of raw oysters (without the liquor) 
with spices to your taste (some preferring nutmeg, mace, 
and Cayenne pepper, others black pepper alone), add a 
quarter of a pound of butter and a heaped teacup of 
grated bread ; put all together in the dish, then cover it 
with your paste, cut in strips, crossed or otherwise orna- 
mented, as your fancy suggests. A pound of butter to — 
two quarts of oysters is desired by-some epicures, but we 
think the quantity named above preferable, cehery if 
the oysters are of fine quality. 

A pie of this size will bake in three- quae of an hour, 
if the oven is in good order; if the heat is not ee 
allow it.an hour. 

If in baking the crust is likely to become too brown, 
put a piece of paper doubled over it, and the desired color 
will be retained; when taken from the oven, if it should 
look dry, pour some of the liquor that was drained from - 
the oysters in the dish, having previously strained and 
boiled it. 

As pastry always looks more beautiful when just from 
the oven, arrange your dinner so that the pie may be 
placed on the table as soon as it is done. 


A Racout or OystTErRs. 


Open a pint of oysters, set them over the fire in their 
own liquor, and keep them hot for some time, without 
boiling; then take them out and set them aside; peel and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 5? 


pick, meanwhile, eighteen good, well-grown mushrooms, 
cut them into pieces not too small, and set them on in a 
stewpan; add to them a good table-spoonful of butter, a 
salt-spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper, allowing 
them to stew gently until the mushrooms are well done; 
as soon as this is the case add the oysters, with a gill of 
sweet cream, and cook them till well mixed together, but 
‘by no means let them boil; then dish them up, garnished 
with celery leaves and fried oysters. - 
3% 


58 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


CHAPTER VI. 
FISH. 


To Boil Rockfish.—Sauce for Rockfish.—To Boil a Shad.—To Bake 
a Shad.— To Fry a Shad.— To Broil a Shad.— Court Bouillon, 
Louisiana Mode.—To Broil Trout, and Sauce for it.—To Fry 
Trout.—Fresh Herrings.—To Boil Herrings plain.—Boiled Her- 
rings, with Mustard Sauce.—To Fry Perch.—To Broil Perch.— 
Perch, with Caper Sauce.—To Boil Salmon.—To Broil Salmon, 
with White Sauce.—Salmon Pie.— Lobster Pie.—Turbot a la 
Créme.—To Dress Bass or Sheep’s-head.—Baked Blackfish.—To 
Broil Carp.—To Broil Carp au Court Bouillon.—Stewed Lobster. 
—Baked Bass. 

TuE binding together of distant parts of the earth 
through the facilities of modern travel shows its advan- 
tages inno way more strikingly than in the improved bills 
of fare attainable in- almost every region on the globe. 
For instance, while nowhere are richer supplies of fish and 
oysters than are to be found in that section of Virginia 
bordering upon the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean, 
in the inland counties, before railways were built, these 
articles of food were so rare as to be almost unknown save 
by report. Nowadays, although people still repair to the 
sea-side in order to enjoy them in perfection, there are few 
sections of the State where, in the winter and early spring, 
the monotony of every-day diet may not be relieved by 
recourse to these dainties of the deep. In Norfolk and 
Richmond sheep’s-head and hog-fish take the place of the 
blue-fish and bass of the New York and Boston markets, 
while during March and April rockfish, shad, and herring 
are transported daily in immense quantities hundreds of 
miles inland in various directions. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 59 


Stale fish are both unpalatable and unwholesome; there- 
fore the house-keeper should guard against their purchase. 
The distinguishing marks of what is fresh are found in 
the fulness and brightness of the eye, redness of the gills, 
stiffness of the body, and lack of strong, unpleasant odor. 
It is recommended to use just as little water in preparing 
fish for cookery as is consistent with cleanliness. Anoth- 
er sign of freshness in a fish is found in the facility with 
which the scales may be removed, for when it has been 
long out of the water they adhere much more firmly than 
when just caught. When notin the hands of the cook let 
fish always be kept in the coolest part of your cellar, unless 
you have ice, upon which it is best to keep them lying. 

Rockfish are always boiled, and are among the most 
highly esteemed of the piscine tribe, because the large 
size and comparative fewness of their bones make them 
so much less troublesome and dangerous than others in 
the eating. 

Shad may be cooked in a much greater variety of ways, 
but is most commonly seen either fried or baked. Corned 
shad are very highly esteemed, as a breakfast dish more 
especially, and are put up at home. If cooks are not par- 
ticularly directed to serve up the roe with the fish they 
are apt, ignorantly, to throw it away, thus rejecting what 
most persons regard as the best part of the feast. 

Gold and silver perch are among the daintiest of the 
fresh-water fish of Virginia, although there, as elsewhere, 
mountain trout are in great request, and abundantly found, 
too, in the more sequestered streams of the western and 
south-western sections of the State. 


To Bom RockFIsH. 


Rockfish are almost universally boiled and dressed with 
ege sauce. A large rockfish furnishes a magnificent dish, 


60 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


but the small ones are inferior. Scrape off the scales, 
take out the gills, and wash nicely; put in a pot with cold 
water enough to cover, and half a table-spoonful of salt, 
and let it boil slowly, keeping the pot covered all the 
while; skim well, and, when done, drain the water from 
it, and lay upon a dish, garnished with sliced hard-boiled 
eggs. 
SAUCE FOR RockFIsuH. 

This quantity will suffice for a company of twenty: 
One pound of butter (to be creamed, not oiled), twelve 
egos boiled hard several hours, so that the yolks can be 
reduced to a powder, a teacupful of thin flour-starch, and, 
to insure its being free from lumps, it is better to strain 
it; then stir the butter and starch together. 'To the yolks 
of the eggs add four salt-spoonfuls of salt, one of red 
pepper, two of black pepper, three teaspoonfuls of mixed 
mustard, with as much catsup as will season the whole, un- 
less you prefer to put the catsup on the table separately, 
as is better, considering the diversity of tastes; the eggs, 
pepper, salt, and mustard should be well mixed before 
putting with the starch. The sauce should be kept warm 
until it is wanted, but by no means allowed to become 
hot enough to oil. Reserve enough eggs and slice some 
of them to put into the gravy-boat as well as garnish the 
dish containing the fish. 


To Bom A SHAD. 


Select a fine, fat specimen (a poor shad being miserable 
food) — one filled with roe is the choicest. Every well- 
appointed kitchen should have a regular fish-kettle, such 
as is supplied with a perforated tin shelf inside, with 
handles, so that the fish can be lifted from the kettle and 
laid upon the dish without being broken by handling. 
If, however, you have not such a convenience, boil your 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 61 


fish in a cloth, laid on an ordinary plate, and, by taking 
hold of the ends of the cloth, you can manage the fish 
pretty well, though it be a large one. 

After cleaning your fish well—that is to say, scraping 
off the scales, which must be first loosened by having a 
little hot water poured over them, removing the gills, cut- 
ting off the fins and the hard, white part running along 
the backbone—put it into your kettle in cold water, sea- 
soned with a table-spoonful of salt and a gill of cider- 
vinegar. If the fish is thick through and weighs as much 
as ten pounds, allow it an hour in which to boil, after the 
water becomes hot; but if it is thin through and small it 
will be enough to allow it five minutes for every pound of 
fish. To test whether it is done thrust a knife as close 
to the backbone as you can, and if the flesh parts from 
it readily the fish has boiled long enough, and must be 
dished without delay. Send it to table in a large, flat 
dish, wrapped in a folded napkin. Garnish the dish with 
scraped horseradish. Prepare a nice boat of butter sauce, 
and have ready Worcestershire Sauce, and catsups of sev- 
eral sorts, and made mustard in the castors, to be used 
as the taste of different persons may direct. 


To BakE A SHAD. 


Choose the very finest for this purpose, and, besides the 
usual cleaning, remove the backbone, if the fish be male, 
and roe, if it be female; in the cavities thus formed insert 
a rich stuffing of bread-crumbs, seasoned exactly as if you 
were preparing to roast poultry. As at the season for 
shad eggs are also plentiful, it will improve this stuffing 
to add to it one or two raw eggs beaten light, and in- 
corporated with the other things. When the fish 1s well 
stuffed cover it all over on top with grated bread-crumbs, 
glazed with some of the egg kept out on purpose ; place 


62 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BUOK. 








it at full length in a baking-pan containing about a 
pint of water; baste it with butter from time to time, 
and let it bake gently till done through. Broil the roe, 
and serve it in a small dish separately, but placed con- 
veniently, so that each person at table may be helped to a 
bit.. Unless where persons are fond of very rich food, no 
gravy is needed with baked shad. If called for, though, 
prepare some out of the juice left in the pan where the 
fish was baked, adding a little water, and thickening with 
butter and browned flour. Serve in the usual gravy-boat. 


To Fry a SHAD. 


Clean the fish as directed above; split it, and cut into 
pieces of a size to be laid upon a person’s plate ; after 
cleaning, drain and wipe dry ; then flour each piece on 
both sides ; drop them into a pan, with plenty of boiling 
lard ; drain again as soon as the fish is done brown, and 
serve on a hot dish. Butter sauce, mustard, and catsups 
are the condiments needed with it at table, besides salt, 


of course. 
To Brom A SHAD. 


The fish is split so as not to come in two, but in order_ 


that it may be spread out and made to lie flat on the 
gridiron, which must be previously greased and heated. 
Sprinkle the fish plentifully with pepper and salt, and 
when you lay it upon its dish pour over it a little melted 
butter, and garnish with curled parsley. 


Court Bovi1on. 
(A Louisiana Mode of Serving Fish.) 
Take a large fish, cut it up into pieces, and with it put 


half a table-spoonful of lard rubbed up with one table- © 


spoonful and a half of flour. Brown all together in a pot, 
being careful to stir them up and not let them burn; 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 63 


when nicely browned add to them three quarts of boiling 
water, and season with thyme, pepper (both black and 
Cayenne), a little onion, and a large teaspoonful of salt. 
Let it boil until the fish has come to pieces and the whole 
mass is in fusion. 

To Brom Trovr. 

June is the season in which trout are in their highest 
degree of perfection, and many esteem this as the best 
way of eating them. Let the trout be carefully cleaned, 
washed, and dried ; tie them round and round with pack- 
thread, to keep them entire and in shape; then melt some 
butter with a good deal of salt, pour this over the trout, 
and roll it in the butter till perfectly covered ; then lay 
it over a clear fire at a good distance, that it may do 
leisurely. 

SAUCE. 

Cut an anchovy up (first wash and bone it) very small, 
and chop also a table-spoonful of capers; melt some but- 
ter with half a teaspoonful of flour, add to it pepper, salt, 
nutmeg, and last of all pour in half a spoonful of vinegar. 
When the trout is done take it up, lay it in a warm dish, 
pour this sauce upon it, and send it up hot. 


To Fry Trovt. 


For those who love the real taste of this excellent fish 
there is no better way of dressing them than plain frying. 
It gives a crispness to the flesh and leaves its high flavor 
entire. Cut and clean the trout, wash them, dry them 
perfectly with napkins ; cut the sides and back slightly 
with a very fine knife, strew a little salt over them, and 
then dredge them with the flour ; set on a pan with some 
clarified butter, and when it is hot lay in the trout; fry 
them to a delicate brown, and send them up in a napkin, 
garnished with fried parsley. 


64 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Frresuo Herrines. 


There is a season when herrings are in a particular. 
perfection, and few know anything of the matter. ‘This 
is the time of serving them up boiled, and we shall prop- 
erly explain it. We have herrings in vast quantities 
early in the summer ; they are then in the breeding sea- 
son, At their first coming they have small roes, and are 
less esteemed ; but in reality, though the roe is in less 
quantity, the flesh is more and better. From time to time 
new quantities come up, and the roes in these are larger, 
till at length they fill the whole body of the fish; then 
it is by the ignorant supposed to be in perfection, but in 
fact the roe is all that is good then, and the flesh is never 
poorer. Soon after this the herrings deposit their roe 
for the production of their young, and they are then not 
worth catching. These are what we call “shotten her- 
rings ;”’ the roe, which was valuable, is gone, and the flesh . 
is in the poorest condition. All this time we have valued 
the herring only according to the quantity of the roe,-as 
if the fish itself were of no use, and, indeed, so we seem 
to think. But there is after this a season-when they are 
truly in their perfection. Soon after the casting of the 
roe they feed fast, and in a month or more have recovered 
all their wasting, when no more are caught now in the fish- 
ery. But the mackerel season comes in, and by chance sev- 
eral herrings are taken with them ; these are large, juicy, 
and in fine order ; and these are the herrings for boiling, 
and now we shall boil them. 


To Bor Herrincs PLaIn. 


Set a pan of clear cold water on the dresser, clean half 
a dozen herrings, throw them into the cold water, stir 
them about, and change the water once, pouring it off and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 65 


pumping on some fresh. Set on a stewpan and put in a 
sufficient quantity of water; boil the herrings, and while 
they are doing melt some butter, put into it some boiled 
fennel, chopped fine, and when the herrings are done pour 
it over them in a dish; garnish them with boiled fennel, 
and send up a quantity of the same in a sauce-boat. 


Bortep Herrines, wira Musrarp SAvce. 


Choose half a dozen large, fine herrings; clean them; 
throw them into a pan of cold water just pumped»; put 
into another pan a handful of pure salt; pump some fresh 
water upon it; drain the herrings from the first water and 
throw them into this; set on a stewpan with two quarts 
of water, a pint of vinegar, two ounces of salt; boil the 
herrings in this; skim it from time to time, not letting it 
boil too fast, or it is apt to break them to pieces. Wash, 
bone, and mince a fine anchovy; melt a quarter of a pound 
of butter, with a little vinegar, in the water you put to it, 
and a small dust of flour; put in the anchovy and stir it 
about; then put in the egg and shake it, so as to be well 
mixed; then take up the herrings; boil some fennel with 
them, by way of garnish; lay some of this upon the her- 
rings, and on the sides of the dish; finish the sauce by 
adding some mustard and squeezing in a lemon. Send 
this up in a sauce-boat, hot. | 


To Fry Prrcu. 


Choose middle-sized perch; clean them, scale and wash 
them; then with a very sharp penknife score them on the 
sides, but not very deep nor very close; dredge them with 
flour; then fry them in oiled butter. When they are well 
done and brown serve them up garnished with fried pars- 
ley, and send up with them plain melted butter. This 


66. VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


gives the perch its true flavor, and many, for that rea- 
son, prefer it to any other way of dressing that excel- 
lent fish. 


To Brow PERcuH. 


Choose for this dish perch of a moderate size, fresh 
from the water; scale them, clean them, and dry them in 
a napkin; melt a good quantity of butter, with some salt; 
let it be thick when it is cooled a little; dip the perch in 
it; roll it about till the butter sticks well to every part of 
it; then set a gridiron over a very clear and brisk fire, but 
let it stand at a very great height above the fire, for the 
perch must be soaked well before it is brown. 


PERCH, WITH CAPER SAUCE. 


Choose large perch for this way of dressing; scale, 
wash, and dry them; cut them deep into the sides and 
back, and dredge them with flour, with a little salt in it; 
fry them, as before directed, till they are thoroughly done 
and perfectly brown. When the fish is ready make the 
sauce by melting in a saucepan two ounces of butter; put 
in some flour and brown it; put in some chives chopped 
fine, some parsley chopped fine, a few mushrooms shred 
fine; add a little boiling water; lay the perch taken out 
of the pan into a small stewpan; pour this over them; let 
them simmer in it two or three minutes; then take them 
out, lay them on a warm dish, and put to the sauce two 
large spoonfuls of capers cut small; thicken it up, and 
then pour over the perch. There is no way in which they 
eat better than this. The frying gives them a firmness 
and a crispness. The soaking in the sauce does not take 
this off, although it mellows the flesh very finely, and gives 
the whole the flavor of the ingredients that are put in the 
sauce. 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 67 





To Bom Sammon. 


This is only to be done in salmon regions. Let it be 
scaled and cleaned; cut off the head and tail, and cut the 
body through at once into slices an inch and a half thick; 
have a large pan of cool water by you; as the slices are 
cut throw them in; then strew a handful of salt over the 
surface of the water; stir it about, and take out the fish. 
Set on a large, deep stewpan; boil the head and tail, but 
do not split the head; put in some salt, but no vinegar; 
and when these have boiled ten minutes skim the water 
very clean, and put in the slices; when they have-boiled 
enough take them out, and while they are draining make 
some shrimp sauce to send up with them. The head and 
tail are to lie in the middle of the dish, the slices to be 
placed regularly round them, and the whole to be gar- 
nished with whole leaves of parsley. 


To Brom Satmon, wirh WuHiTE SAvce. 


Cut some salmon into handsome slices for broiling; lay 
these ready on the dish; melt some butter in a saucepan, 
and add some salt; pour this butter over the slices of sal- 
mon; roll them over and over in it, that every part may 
be well covered; then put them on a gridiron over a very 
‘ clear but slack fire; let them broil leisurely, carefully turn- 
ing them as there may be occasion. While the salmon is 
cooking make the sauce thus: Wash and bone a couple of 
anchovies; mince them fine; put them into a small sauce- 
pan with some butter and a little flour; season this with 
pepper and salt; add a spoonful of capers chopped; grate 
in some nutmeg, and put in a whole small onion; add a 
little water and half a spoonful of vinegar; keep this sim- 
mering over a gentle fire while the salmon-is broiling; and 
when that is nearly ready prepare a warm dish and pour 


68 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


in the sauce; take away the onion and lay in the salmon, 

sending it to table hot. This is the best way of eating 

fresh salmon. 
; SALMon Piz. 

Lobster is an ingredient of great consequence in a sal- 
mon pie, and the whole is in some measure of the nature 
of the last mentioned, but it is much richer. Make it 
thus: First prepare a very good crust; then choose a 
prime piece of fresh salmon, clean it perfectly, and wash 
it last with a sponge wet with white wine; put some 
crust round the dish, but none at the bottom; only butter 
the bottom of the dish, and then lay in the salmon. After 
seasoning it very well with pepper and salt grate a little 
nutmeg over it, and add two blades of mace, bruised. 
Boil a lobster, take out all the flesh, mix that and the 
inside of the body together; melt half a pound of fresh 
butter, and mix all the lobster perfectly well with it, then 
put this into the dish over the salmon, put on the lid, 
bake it, and let it stand an hour in a moderate oven. 


LoxgsterR Pin. 


Boil a couple of large, fine lobsters, and while they are 
boiling cover a dish with a good crust. When the lob- 
sters are done enough break them up. Separate the tail, 
split it; take out the inside; then cut each imto four: 
pieces. Lay these regularly in a dish, Break the claws 
and pick out the flesh; open the body and pick everything 
clean out of that; chop, break, and mix all this together 
well; grate in a little nutmeg. Season it with pepper and 
salt and a little vinegar; rub the crumb of a small roll to 
powder and mix with this; melt half a pound of butter 
and work it in. When all this is done lay the whole upon 
the tails in the dish, and put on a cover. Bake it about 
half an hour. 





VIRGINIA. COOKER Y-BOOK. 69 


Turpor A LA Creme. 


Pick all the fish from the bones, and have ready the 
following sauce: Put one ounce of flour into a stewpan, 
to which add, by degrees, one quart of milk, stirring it 
very smoothly, then add two peeled shallots, a bunch of 
parsley, and a sprig of thyme, tied together, a little nut- 
meg, a teaspoonful of salt, and the same of white pepper. 
Place it over the fire, stirring it until it forms a thickish 
sauce ; take it from the fire, stir in a quarter of a pound 
of butter, and pass it through a sieve. Put some of the 
same in a baking-dish, then the fish, well seasoned with 
salt and white pepper—so alternately sauce and fish— 
sprinkle bread-crumbs on the top, warm before the fire 
half an hour, brown with a salamander. Any remains of 
a firm fish may be dressed acceptably in this manner. 


To Dress Bass or SHEEP’S-HEAD. 


Take a bass or sheep’s-head eighteen or twenty inches 
long, put it into a pan, place that in a Dutch oven, add 
half a pint of tomato catsup, a large spoonful of butter, 
half a pint of water, salt, black and red pepper to suit 
your taste. Cook it over a quick fire, and serve it up 
with the dressing. Smaller fish may be dressed in the 
same manner, proportioning the quantity of dressing to 
the size of the fish, and using instead of the Dutch oven 
an @ la blaise, or chafing-dish. 


. BakepD BLACKFISH. 
(From ‘The Carolina Housewife.”’) 

After the fish is well cleaned take off the fins and tail ; 
eut it into four or five parts. Lay in a deep dish some 
lumps of butter, parsley, onions, chopped fine, a little | 
allspice; then a layer of fish, well seasoned with pepper 


70 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


and salt. Flour it. Continue to do this until the dish is 
full. Bake an hour. 


To Brow Carp. 


' Prepare a strong and perfectly clear fire, and warm 
thoroughly a large and clean gridiron; let the bars be all 
hot through, and yet not burning hot upon the surface. 
This is the perfect and fine condition of the gridiron for 
nice uses; for if it be hastily heated the bars will be hot 
enough to scorch the things laid on them on their outside, 
and yet cold enough inside to chill it. The bars of the 
gridiron must always keep away so much of the heat as 
their breadth covers, and, therefore, they should be thor- 
oughly hot when the thing to be dressed is laid upon them. 
This preparation being made of the fire and the gridiron, 
let the carp be carefully cleaned, the fins pulled out, and 
the scales perfectly taken off, then rub it over with a piece 
of butter, and strew some salt upon it; lay it on the grid- 
iron, and watch it very carefully that it do thoroughly, 
and not too quick. 


To Bom Carp au Court BovutLuon. 


Scale and draw a brace of carp, and pull out the fins. 
When they are thus cleaned put them into an earthen 
pan ; set on a quart of vinegar with a pinch of salt in an 
earthen pipkin. When it is scalding hot pour it on the 
carp and let them be till cold. Then put on some vinegar 
in a pan, enough to boil the carp; put them in and boil 
them gently till they are done enough; just before they 
are done throw in half a pint of white wine. The spirit 
of the vinegar will by that time be evaporated, and the 
wine will freshen up the liquor and give the carp a rich- 
ness of taste. At the same time with the wine put in 
three bay-leaves, a spoonful of white pepper, an onion, 


VIRGINIA COOKEHRY-BOOK. ver 


and four cloves. Let all boil up a little, that the carp may 
be thoroughly done and receive their flavor; then take 
them out, lay them to drain, and send them up in a nap- 
kin, garnished with parsley. Carp cooked in this way has 
as rich a flavor as when stewed in wine. 

At the time when the United States Government is 
making such vigorous efforts to introduce carp into our 
country it seems suitable to present an English way of 
serving up that fine fish in a savory fashion. The above 
recipe is taken from “The British Housewife,” found 
among the treasures of an old Virginia family. 


STEWED LOBSTER. 


Take four lobsters weighing from one-half to three-quar- 
ters. of a pound each, boil half an hour, pick out the meat, 
excluding the fat and red parts, chop very fine, and when 
ready for breakfast put it into a saucepan, with a tezeup- 
ful of grated bread-crumbs, a lump of butter the size of 
an egg, salt, half a teacupful of milk (mace, if you like its 
flavor), with as much Cayenne pepper as you ean lay on 
a five-cent piece. Warm it quick, stirring all the time, 
as it only needs to boil once ; serve in a covered dish. 


Baxep Bass. 


An eight-pound bass is a good-sized one for baking. 
Prepare a teacupful of bread-crumbs grated fine. Sea- 
son with butter, pepper, and salt (spices or herbs too, if 
. you like). Fill the breast of the fish, lay some thin slices 
of salt pork, whole pepper, cloves, and allspice in the pan; 
put in two teacupfuls of cold water; bake three-quarters 
of an hour, basting frequently. When dished set the pan 
on the stove, and dust some browned flour mto the gravy 
’ made while cooking. Chop the yolk of a hard-boiled egg 
and put in your gravy-boat; stir in a glass of sherry or port. 
As the gravy boils strain into the boat, and serve hot. 


%2 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


CHAPTER VII. 
SOUPS A 


Stock for Soup.—To Prepare a Beef’s Head for Soup Stock.—Aspar- 
agus Soup.—Beef. Soup.—Chicken Soup.—Black Mexican Bean 
Soup.— Forcé-meat Balls for Bean Soup.— Corn Soup.— Calf’s- 
head Soup.—Gumbo.—Mock-turtle Soup.—Little Eggs for Turtle 
or Mock-turtle Soup.—Oyster Soup, No. 1.—Oyster Soup, No. 2. 
—Okra Soup.—Ox-tail Soup.—Green-pea Soup.—Squirrel Soup. 
—Tomato Soup.—Good Lenten Soups. 


Stock FOR Soup. 


Kary in the morning put two shins and fifteen or twen- 
ty pounds of coarse beef in eight gallons of cold water. 
Boil eight or ten hours, keeping it covered all the time. 
Carefully skim off all the grease. Put in two onions, 
sliced, a handful of celery, six turnips, cut up, four: pods 
of capsicum, half an ounce each of cloves and mace, a table- 
spoonful of black pepper, garden herbs, such as savory, . 
winter and summer, thyme and marjoram, a table-spoonful 
each, powdered, and six slices of lean ham. From eight 
this stock should be boiled down to four gallons. When 
properly boiled strain it through flannel three or four 
double, and when cold it will be a fine jelly, and will 
keep in winter a fortnight, in summer on ice four or. five 
days. For a tureen of soup take two quarts of the jelly, 
adding any additional seasoning that your taste suggests. 
Always remember, however, that it is better to put rather 
too little than too much, because a deficiency may be 
supplemented by the castors at table, but-no skill can 
‘atone for carelessly overturning either the. salt-cellar or 
pepper-cruet into the soup. As soon as this soup stock 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. %3 


boils send it to table. Stock should be made without 
any salt, as that spoils the color. 


To PREPARE A BreEr’s HEAD For Sour Srock. 


Cut up the head into small pieces and boil in a large 
quantity of water until it is boiled all to pieces. Take out 
all the bones (as in making souse cheese) and boil again 
until thick. Then season very highly with pepper, salt, 
catsup, allspice, and onions, chopped fine, and pour into 
crocks to jelly or harden. ‘To make soup cut out a thick 
slice or “‘hunk” and add about a quart of boiling water, 
if you have not more than five or six persons in family. 
Boil for a few minutes only, and you have a nice dish of 
soup. In seasoning use, say, two onions, a table-spoonful 
of pepper, one of salt, two table-spoonfuls of catsup, one 
teaspoonful of allspice, and one ounce of celery-seed. 


ASPARAGUS Soup. 


Take four bunches—that is to say, about four dozen 
heads—of asparagus, cut off three inches of the tops and 
lay them aside for the present in a pan of water; scrape 
the rest of the stalks well and put on in your soup-pot 
with three quarts of water. Let the asparagus boil for 
an hour; then take it off the fire, strain it, water and all, 
through the colander, pulping it with your potato-masher. 
Return the water to the soup-pot, add to it either a 
chicken, the bones of which have been broken up after 
jointing, or two pounds of lean veal, chopped up. Boil 
again slowly for two hours, then add the asparagus left 
out before; let it cook until these are done tender; thicken 
with two table-spoonfuls of flour rubbed into one table-. 
spoonful of butter, creamed smoothly together ; add lastly 
half a teacupful of new milk, and serve hot. Skim off 
carefully any grease that rises to the surface. Put toast 

4 


74 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


cut into small squares into the bottom of the tureen 
before pouring in the soup. 


BEEF Soup. 


Beef is decidedly the best meat for the substratum of 
every-day soup,'and may be used daily, with slight varia- 
tions, without wearying a common palate. Get from your 
butcher a shin-bone, if he has it, or else the coarse neck 
pieces will answer, that are good for nothing else, and can 
be purchased cheap. Put it on in a gallon of cold water 
as early in the morning as you can; set it on the back of 
the stove, in a covered kettle, where it may simmer slowly 
till dinner is ready—not boil. In winter add, about an 
hour before dinner, any vegetables almost that you have 
at hand and like—dried tomatoes are invaluable for this 
purpose—potatoes, turnips in moderation, carrots too, to 


be used also cautiously; dried corn a handful, Lima beans | 


ad libitum, a teacupful of rice, etc. If you like soup 
thickened, it is done by rubbing up flour carefully with 
a piece of butter, and adding it just before you want to 
serve the soup, allowing it, of course, time enough to 
serve its end. If you want your soup brown, add some 
browned flour, of which you should always keep a supply 
by you in the kitchen. Remove the soup from the fire 
a while before you are ready for it, skim off every par- 
ticle of grease, and then return it to the fire, so that it 
may become perfectly hot. 


CHICKEN Soup. 


For a gallon tureen a large, grown fowl is required, if 
you would make a pot of good, strong soup. Cut up the 
chicken into joints and put it into cold water, with a fla- 
voring of one onion, a teaspoonful of black pepper, a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Let these things simmer together from 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 75 


nine o’clock in the morning till one, if your dinner-hour 
is two o’clock; then add a full teacup of rice, with a tea- 
spoonful of bruised celery-seed, or two heads of fresh cel- 
ery, chopped up, or a bunch of parsley chopped into bits, 
according as shall suit your taste or convenience. A nice 
thickening is furnished by beating up the yolks of two 
eggs, and stirring into them a table-spoonful of flour 
and a cup of perfectly sweet milk. Pour to them a little 
of the soup boiling, then return all to the pot on the fire 
for a few minutes, and serve hot. 


Buiack Mexican Bran Sovp. 


To one pint of black beans put four quarts of water, 
two slices of nice lean bacon, or the hock which is cut off 
when the ham is boiled ; one small chicken or half a large 
one, or a small piece of any fresh meat. After the meat 
or chicken has boiled until it is done take it out and make 
force-meat balls of it; fry them, and put them in the 
soup. Boil four eggs hard, slice them up into rings, and 
drop them into the tureen when about to be served. Fla- 
vor also with a broken pod of red pepper and a teaspoon- 
ful of bruised celery-seed. Some persons also add a small 
wineglassful of catsup, either walnut or tomato. Others, 
again, use a seasoning of a little mace or cloves. The 
soup should be strained clear of the hulls of the beans. 
For common use the force-meat balls may be omitted, 
and the soup be very nourishing still. 


ForcE-MEAT BALLS FOR BEAN SOUP 


Are made by chopping fine a pound of cooked meat, 
adding a table-spoonful of fresh suet also cut up fine, half 
a pint of bread-crumbs, and one egg. Make up into lit- 
tle balls with your hands, moistening them with a little 
of the soup taken from the pot; add pepper, salt, and a 


76 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


very little nutmeg or allspice. Drop them into hot lard 
and fry till brown, then put them into the bottom of your 
tureen, and pour the soup boiling hot over them. 


Corn SOUP. 


Cut the corn from the cob, and boil the cobs in water 
for at least an hour, then add the grains, and boil until 
they are thoroughly done; put one dozen ears of corn to 
a gallon of water, which will be reduced to three quarts 
by the time the soup is done ; then pour on a pint of new 
milk, two well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper to your taste; 
continue the boiling a while longer, and stir in, to season 
and thicken it a little, a table-spoonful of good butter 
rubbed up with two table-spoonfuls of flour. 

-Corn soup may also be made nicely with water in which 
a pair of grown fowls have been boiled or parboiled, in- 
stead of having plain water for the foundation. 


CaLF’s-HEAD Soup. 


The calf’s head is cleaned thus: wash it well, and 
sprinkle some pounded rosin all over the hairs, then dip 
them in boiling water and take them instantly out. The 
rosin will dry immediately, and the skin may be scraped 
clean with ease. 

Having so done, put the head in a pot with about two 
gallons of water, and boil it until tender. ‘Take it out 
and cut the meat into small pieces. Return half of it to 
the soup, after straining the liquor, and let all boil to- 
gether for several hours. Flavor with a table-spoonful 
of allspice, a teaspoonful of black pepper, and just before 
dishing up a teacupful of Madeira or sherry wine. Slice 
also four hard-boiled eggs into rings and put them into 
the tureen. Add salt also, but sparingly, to taste. 

Half of the meat is enough for one tureen of soup, so 








VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. U7 





that the rest may be put away in a cool place, to be used 
next day. 

If you prefer to do s0, make the meat up into force- 
meat balls, as they are considered rather elegant. The 
harslet should be boiled with the head and strained out, 
if you do not choose to have meat in the tureen, although 
to most palates the finely chopped harslet and other meat, 
if not in too great excess, is an acceptable addition to 
the dish. It is a rather troublesome soup in the prepara- 
tion, but is one of the best made, and not inaptly has it 
been called “ mock-turtle soup.” 


GUMBO. 


Fry a chicken with two or three slices of middling 
(which must by no means be rusty) or a table-spoonful of 
lard, not done, but only a little brown. In the same 
gravy fry two quarts of sliced okra until it is of a dark 
green color; also fry an onion with the okra; put gravy 
and all in as early after breakfast as you can, and add 
one gallon of boiling water; then set it in a place on the 
fire where it will cook slowly without boiling. As soon 
. ag you can get them ready add one quart of tomatoes, 
after the juice is strained off, a good deal of corn cut off 
the cob, a pod of red pepper, and salt to your taste. It 
must be simmered until you cannot distinguish the vege- 
tables ; then pick out the bones, and serve in a tureen, 
like soup. The corn should be cut the length of the ear 
and scraped off. 


Mock-TURTLE Soup. 


Have a large calf’s head cleaned, without taking off the 
skin; divide the lower half from the front of the head; put 
the head on to boil in a gallon of water, the hock of a 
ham or a small piece of pork, four or five onions, a bunch 


73 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


of parsley, a teaspoonful of cloves, half a nutmeg, a tea- 
spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of salt. Boil all to- 
gether until the flesh on the head is quite tender, so that 
the bones can be easily removed ; put it on a board and 
chop up into small pieces; take the eyes out carefully 
and lay them aside; strain the water in which the head 
was boiled, and just before dishing up add one glass of 
wine and one gill of mushroom or walnut catsup. Let 
the soup boil till reduced to two quarts; thicken with 


two spoonfuls of browned flour, stirred into two ounces . 


or a large table-spoonful of butter; put half the meat in 
just so after being chopped, or make it into force-meat 
balls, with bread-crumbs and yolk of egg, if you prefer 
it that way; let the soup boil a short while longer after 
the meat is added, and serve up hot. The eyes are es- 
teemed a great delicacy by epicures. Add a sliced lemon 
when ready for table. 


LitrteE Eaas ror TurtitE orn Mock-turTLE Soup. 


Mash up the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and make 
them into a paste with a raw one; roll bits of it up into 


the shape of little balls, and throw them into boiling - 


water to harden, which will be in about two minutes; 
drop into the tureen of soup just before it is sent to 
table, and dainty morsels they furnish. 


OysTER Soup, No. 1. 


Wash two quarts of oysters from thei own liquor, and 
put them on the fire in a kettle with about three quarts 
of water; boil till they are done, which may be told by 
the shrinking of the outer gills; then take them off the 
fire, and put into them the yolks of six beaten eggs, and 
from a half to a whole pint of new milk or sweet cream, 
with a quarter of a pound of butter, and salt and pepper 


- 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 79 


. 


to suit the taste. Better put very little salt. Return the 
kettle to the fire, and let the soup remain there only just 
long enough to thicken; add a table-spoonful of flour for 
thickening, as in other soups. 


Oyster Soup, No. 2. 


Strain three quarts of oysters from their liquor, and 
put the liquor on the fire to boil, with half a pint of cel- 


ery cut into small dice, two or three blades of mace, a 


little pepper and salt, with a suspicion of made mustard. 
If there should not be liquor enough to make two quarts, 
fill up that amount with pure water. After the liquor has 
boiled for about five minutes add the oysters. Just be- 
fore taking it off add a large table-spoonful of butter 
rubbed up with flour and a quart of rich milk, or cream 
and milk mixed. Instead of flour, one may use for thick- 
ening the beaten yolks of four eggs, which makes the 
soup very rich and nice; but if eggs are scarce and high, 
they are not regarded as indispensable. In the same way 
all seasoning but that of a little pepper and salt may be 
omitted, and the plain oysters found good enough. 


Oxra Soup 


Differs from gumbo only in not having the meat fried 
which is put into it, and in the vegetables not being 
strained out. Okra and tomatoes may be put in plenti- 
fully, or in lesser quantity, according to circumstances. 
Half a dozen pods of tender okra and six or eight mod- 
erate-sized tomatoes will flavor beef soup nicely, if you 
are dependent upon a city market; but if you can draw 
upon a large country garden for supplies, a quart of each 
will be none too many. Red pepper should always be put 
in, to suit the taste of your family; corn, Irish potatoes, 
and Lima beans are also acceptable additions to this soup, 


80 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


and even rice comes not amiss. The meat also may be 
varied according to family convenience; for a shin-bone 
of fresh beef, two pounds of any coarse, lean part of the 


animal, or the carcasses of any cold fowl or joint of meat _ 


of any kind, will answer almost equally well for a dish 
that may be found acceptable daily all the summer 
through, if the cook has any knack at utilizing the ma- 
terials that are always at hand during that season for 
making a good and yet economical dish of soup. 


Ox-TaIL Sour. 


Divide the ox-tail by joints and wash it, scraping well; 
put it on the fire in a gallon of water directly after break- 
fast; when it has boiled a while add one onion, chopped, 
and two carrots, sliced in rings, with a farther seasoning 
of salt, pepper, and four blades of mace; when nearly 
ready to serve skim off the grease carefully, cut two slices 
of bread into dice, toast them, fry, and put into the bot- 
tom of the tureen. Also have ready three hard-boiled 
eggs, slice them up, and throw into the soup just as you 
dish it. 

GREEN-PEA Soup. 

Put on early in the day one quart of peas in a gallon of 
water, with one pound of beef, fowl, or giblets, a quarter 
of a pound of lean bacon, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and 
celery-tops tied up; suffer all to boil together until the 
peas are soft enough to pass through a colander. This 
should be done three hours before dinner. Return your 


peas into the pot; strain to them the water in which they 


were boiled; skin the bacon, and let that only of the 
meat stay in the soup, and stew gently till dinner is 
ready; then put pepper and salt to your taste, and a 
lump of butter the size of a partridge-egg. Also, if the 
green celery is omitted, as must be the case sometimes, 


~ 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-LOOK. 81 


add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery-seed. It will be 
a great improvement. | 


SQUIRREL SOUP. 


Even persons who find squirrel positively distasteful as 
meat regard it as supplying delightful material for soup. 
Three squirrels are none too much to allow for making a 
tureen full of soup. Put them on, with a small table-' 
spoonful of salt, directly after breakfast, in a gallon of 
cold water. Cover the pot close and set it on the back 
part of the stove to simmer gently, not boil. Add vege- 
tables just the same as you do in case of other meat-soups 
in the summer season, but especially good will you find 
corn, Irish potatoes, tomatoes, okra, and Lima beans. 
Strain the soup through a coarse colander when the meat 
has boiled to a rag, so as to get rid of the squirrels’ trou- 
blesome little bones. Then return to the pot, and after 
boiling a while longer thicken with a piece of butter rub- 
bed in flour. Celery and parsley leaves chopped up are 
also considered an improvement by many, and those who 
like it thick as gumbo add a spoonful of powdered sas- 
safras-leaves. ‘Toast two slices of bread, cut them into 
dice an inch square, fry them in butter, put them into 
the bottom of your tureen, and then pour the soup boil- 
ing hot upon them. 


ToMATO Sour. 


Put on a gallon of water; let it boil; put in two double- 
handfuls of okra, one handful of shelled butter beans, 
one small cymling, six Irish potatoes, one onion, four ears 
of corn, and a soup-bone of beef, or one fowl. About an 
hour before you take up your soup put in the tomatoes, 
peeled and cut up, in such quantity as you can spare— 
from one pint to two quarts, according to taste or con- 

4k 


82 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


venience. A red pepper pod adds greatly to the flavor of 
this soup, and black pepper and salt too must be put in to 
taste. Put the soup-pot on the fire as early as possible 
after breakfast, letting it simmer all the ‘time, not boil. 
A stone vessel and wooden spoon are desirable for the 
preparation of such soups. 


Goop LEnTEN Soups. 
(Miss Lou Armstrong.) 


Tomato Soup.—To one quart of tomatoes stewed and 
run through a colander add one quart of boiled milk, 
thickened with a small table-spoonful of flour or corn- 
starch; add a table-spoonful of butter, and season to 
your taste with black pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of 
mustard if you choose. Let the soup merely come to a 
boil, and serve immediately. ‘This soup offers the advan- 
tage of being presentable upon very short notice. 

Onion Soup.—Cut in pieces twelve large white onions; 
boil them in three quarts of milk and water equally mixed. 
Put in a bit of veal or a fowl after the onions are boiled 
soft. Thicken it with a gill of sweet cream, pepper, and 
a bit of butter rolled in a teaspoonful of flour. The meat 
must be taken out before the soup comes to the table, and 
slices of untoasted bread laid at the bottom of the tureen. 

Irish Potato Soup.—Boil well one quart of potatoes, 
and mash up smoothly in a little boiling water until quite 
thin. Stir in two ounces of butter, a little pepper and 
salt, into two quarts of milk. Beat up four eggs, and add 
them to the potatoes. When the milk boils, pour it hot 
from the kettle on to the potatoes and eggs. Do not 
return the soup to the fire. Float toast in it when ready 
to be served. 


De ee ae edi 


h 
be ' 2". ee 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 83 





CHAPTER VIII. 
POULTRY AND MEATS. 


To Roast a Turkey.—Gravy for Roast Turkey.—Deviled Turkey. 
—To Boil a Turkey, with Oyster Sauce.—To Boil a Turkey, with 
Egg Sauce.—To Roast a Goose.—The Epicure’s Improvement to 
Roast Goose.—To Roast a Goose before a Range or in a Stove.— 
To Roast Grown Pullets.—To Roast Young Chickens.—To Roast 

Pheasants or Partridges.—To Boil Grown Chickens.—To Roast 
Ducks. — To Dress Wild Ducks. —Gravy for Wild Ducks or 
Grouse.—To Roast a Pig Whole.—Souse.—To Roast a Haunch 
of Venison.—To Roast a Shoulder of Venison.—A Venison Pasty. 
—To Roast Mutton like Venison. 


Aut of the old Virginia recipes for cooking meats speak 
in general of roasting them, where baking must be substi- 
tuted in modern times. Large, open fireplaces, with tin 
kitchens and spits, were in universal use in that State until 
within the last thirty years. As roasting proper is by far 
the best way of cooking, and is still adhered to where 
taste has not been forced to yield to economy, we still 
give many such recipes. Where there is no way of really 
roasting, the same directions may easily be modified so as 
to answer for baking. M. Pierre Blot insisted that every 
well-appointed kitchen should have at hand the appliances 
for roasting meats, but in the large majority of well-to-do 
families throughout the Union epicurism ae given way, 
in this particular, to convenience. 


To Roast a TURKEY. 


A hen-turkey, weighing from six to seven pounds, fur- 
nishes the sweetest and most savory meat, and yet for 


84 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-LOOK. 





festive occasions, where a large company is to be served, 
great one-year-old gobblers, weighing from twelve up to 
even twenty pounds, are yet in demand. After Christmas 
hen-turkeys, if fat, are in all cases preferable. If you 
must cook a large turkey-gobbler, parboil it gently for 
about an hour, to remove the strong flavor of the fat be- 
fore proceeding regularly to stuff and roast. 

For stuffing, prepare bread in quantity proportioned to 
the size of the fowl. A twelve-pound turkey will require 
a quart loaf to stuff it properly; a small hen, only half as 
much. Break up the bread between your hands, mixing 
well with it a table-spoonful of butter and seasoning of 
black pepper, salt, and either a head of celery chopped 
up or a teaspoonful of bruised celery-seed; make the 
stuffing hold together with a little hot water, or the yolk 
of an egg and water; stuff the craw as full as possible; 
upon a spit, within a tin-kitchen, set it down at a good 
distance from the fire, which should be clear and brisk; 
dust the turkey well with flour, and baste it with cold 
butter and a little lard several times. When done, serve 
it up with its own gravy, which must, however, be put 
into a separate dish, or rather gravy-boat. 

For roasting a turkey in an oven or range the time to 
be allowed is twenty minutes for each pound, with one 
twenty minutes extra. The fire must be strong and 
steady throughout the process. The turkey should be 
nicely cleaned and stuffed; then put into a baking-pan, 
supported on transverse strips of wood or iron, so as to 
keep the fowl out of the drippings. No water need be 
added if the bird be moderately fat. Baste repeatedly; 
that is to say, put little bits of butter over the breast and 
legs from time to time, and, dipping up some of the drip- 
pings from the pan, pour it over, so that the whole fowl 
shall be moistened with them. The seasoning of the stuff- 








VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. So 





ing and gravy may be altered, for variety’s sake, from 
celery and pepper to oysters and pepper, or oysters, cel- 
ery and pepper, onion and sage, or savory and thyme, 
etc. 

GRAVY FoR Roast TURKEY. 

There is great art in the preparation of gravies, a 
greasy, oily gravy spoiling the best-cooked fowl or joint. 
' Remove the turkey from the pan; skim off every particle 

of oil, and leave just as much of the drippings as you 
think will be sufficient to fill your gravy-boat; add to 
them a little boiling water, and stir in smoothly a table- 
‘spoonful of browned flour, made previously into a paste 
with the smallest quantity of cold water; let the gravy 
come to a boil as you stir it constantly, and it will be 
ready to serve. If you choose, you can chop the liver 
and gizzard into rather small pieces and add them to the 
gravy, instead of sending them in whole upon the same 
dish as the turkey. 


DEVILED TURKEY. 


In old Virginia life the carver was always the gentle- 
man of the house, until the oldest son took his place, both 
for the sake of his own education in what was esteemed 
a gentlemanly accomplishment, and to relieve his parent 
of an onerous duty. In many families it was the invaria- 
ble custom, when a roast turkey was served, to cut off 
the legs, or one leg, when the fowl was first carved, and 
send it into the kitchen with the gizzard and liver to be 
deviled, and brought in as an entremet later on in the 
meal. The deviling consisted in merely gashing the said 
parts of the fowl deeply, strewing them thickly with 
black pepper and butter, slightly with salt, and then 
broiling, sending in to table hot, when each person who 
wished it was helped to a small piece. 


86 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





To Bow a TurRKEY, WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 
(Mrs. Maria Randolph.) 


Grate a loaf of bread; chop a score or more of oysters 
fine; add nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your taste; mix it 
up into a light force-meat with a quarter of a pound of 
butter, a spoonful or two of cream, and three eggs; stuff 
the craw with it, and make the rest into balls and boil 
them; sew up the turkey; dredge it well with flour; put 
it in a kettle of cold water; cover it, and set it over the 
fire; as the scum begins to rise take it off; let it boil 
very slowly for half an hour; then take off your kettle, 
and keep it closely covered ; if it be of a middle size, let 
it stand in the hot water half an hour; the steam, being 
kept in, will stew it enough to make it rise, keep the skin 
whole, tender, and very white; when you dish it, pour on 
a little oyster sauce, lay the balls around, and serve it up 
with the rest of the sauce in a boat. 

N.B.—Set on the turkey early after breakfast, that it 
may stew as above. It is the best way to boil one to per- 
fection. Put it over the fire to heat just before you dish 
-it up. | 

To Bow «a TurKxry, wirn Eee Sauce. 

This is the most delicate and appetizing way in which 
a turkey can be served in the spring of the year. Make 
a stuffing for the craw of bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, 
and salt, with what seasoning of herbs you prefer, just 
as in case of a roast fowl; sew it in securely and enclose 
it in a cloth well dredged with flour; put it to boil in 
cold water with a spoonful of salt in it, and water enough 
to cover it well; let it simmer two hours and a half, or, 
if small, a less time will do; when the hour for dishing 
comes take a pint of the water in which the fowl was 
boiled and put it in a stewpan, to make sauce; cream up 


i" -_ ie a vi AN 
iia ata 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 87 


a quarter of a pound of butter with a table-spoonful of 
flour, and add them gradually to the broth, and let them 
boil together for about five minutes; lastly, add six hard- 
boiled eggs chopped up in small bits; serve the greater 
portion of the sauce in a boat, but pour some of it over 
the turkey in the dish; and if one or two more eggs are ~ 
sliced into rings and added as an additional garnishing 
it is all well. 

N.B.—The water in which the turkey has been boiled 
makes a nice soup, if thickened with a little flour, flavored 
with salt, pepper, celery, or parsley, and half.a pint of 
Carolina rice boiled in it until the grains are thoroughly 
done. 


To Roast A GOOSsE. 


Wash it, and rub the inside with onion; make a stuff- 
ing of light bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of butter, an 
onion peeled and chopped up fine, with a few sage-leaves 
rubbed up to powder, salt, and pepper. Put it at first at 
a distance from the fire, and by degrees draw it nearer. 
A sheet of paper should be skewered over the breastbone 
well, and when the breast is rising take it off. Be care- 
ful to serve before the breast falls. The proper accom- . 
paniment for a roast goose is a brown gravy nicely thick- 
ened and skimmed, with a bowl of apple sauce, the recipe 
for which is given elsewhere. 


Tue Epicurnr’s ImprovEMENT TO Roast GOOSE. 


One table-spoonful of made mustard, a half-teaspoonful 
of Cayenne pepper, and three table-spoonfuls of red wine; 
pour it hot into the body of the goose, by a slit in the 
apron, just before sending to the table. It gives a fine 
flavor to the sage-and-onion with which the goose has 
already been dressed. 


88 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


To Roast A GoosE BEFORE A RANGE OR IN A STOVE. 


Tollow the same directions as given for turkey (p. 84), 
as to the arrangement of the fowl in the pan and the 
allowance of time. Be particular as to time; for, while 
few persons like rare meat, an overdone goose or duck is 
extremely tasteless. 


To Roast Grown PULLETS. 


Take the fowls when they are ready-dressed; put them 
down to a good fire, or in a pan, if you use a stove; after 
making a stuffing for them, seasoned with butter, pepper, 
salt, and any powdered herb you fancy, fill the craw 
with it until very plump; dredge and baste well with 
butter, if you can afford it, otherwise lard will answer ; 
make a gravy from the drippings, or you can make it, in 
a separate pan, out of the necks and giblets, allowing 
them to simmer slowly in a quart of water until it is 
reduced one-half; if so, strain it, skim off carefully the 
oil that rises to the surface, thicken it with a spoonful 
of brown flour, chop up a few of the giblets in it, and 
serve hot. 


To Roast Youna CHICKENS. 


Truss and put them down before a good fire; dredge 
with flour, and baste with butter. They will take a quar- 
ter of an hour to roast. Froth them up; lay on a flat 
dish, pour melted butter over them, garnish with parsley, 
and serve up hot. 


To Roast PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES. 


Proceed to clean and stuff just as you do chickens, and 
serve with brown gravy and bread sauce thus made: cut 
the crumb of tivo stale rolls into thin slices, and put it 





ORS Me ee es eee ee 





ne ewe tak P 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-LOOK. 89 


into half a pint of cold water, with a little black pepper, 
chopped onion, and salt; after soaking until the bread 
is soft, beat it to a smooth paste, and let it come to a 
boil over the fire in a stewpan; add a quarter of a pound 
of butter and two table-spoonfuls of cream, and serve in 
a sauce-boat. 


To Bom Grown CHICKENS. 


Where gentlemen’s tastes are consulted boiled fowls 
will be rarely seen; but where several varieties of meats 
are desired, and ladies are of the party, especially if the 
season of the year be spring, they will be found a most 
acceptable dish. <A stuffing may be prepared the same 
as if they were to be roasted or baked, and the craw filled 
with it; they must be dredged with flour, and put into 
a kettle with cold water enough to cover them; set the 
kettle on the back part of your stove, cover it close, but 
remove the scum as it rises, and let the fowls boil very 
slowly for half an hour; then set them where the water 
ean no longer boil, but gently simmer for half an hour 
longer, when they should be done. When ready to dish 
them drain the water from them, and serve with egg 
sauce, made as directed in the recipe for turkey with egg 
sauce. Four eggs will be enough for one fowl. 


To Roast Ducks. 


Clean and wash them nicely; prepare a stuffing of 
bread-crumbs and butter, seasoned highly with onions 
and sage, pepper and salt—or Irish potatoes, flavored in 
the same way, may be used for a change, mashed up 
smooth and beaten up with milk and butter. In a range 
or stove one hour should suffice to roast a duck. Re- 
member that a duck is spoiled by too much cooking soon- 
er than any other meat. Bread-crumbs grated over the 


90 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


ducks, while the basting with butter is well attended to, 
give a delicious crispness to the outer skin, which ought 
to be browned to a turn. 


Many persons like currant or apple jelly with duck, ~ 
and the vegetable most frequently asked for at the South 


to eat with it is rice. 


To Dress Witp Ducks. 


Half roast them, then pour a wineglass of claret through 
each one; lay them breast downward in a stewpan, with 
alittle gravy; when nearly done put a little pepper, salt, 
lemon-juice, half a dozen small onions, and a little wal- 
nut catsup into the dripping-pan, that the juices out of 
which you make the gravy may be well impregnated 
with these flavors combined. 


GRAavy FoR Witp Ducks or GRovsE. 


Make gravy separately, if you prefer it, out of the 
necks and gizzards, by putting them into a quart of cold 
water, that must be made to boil until reduced to a pint. 
The preferred seasonings are one table-spoonful of Ma- 
deira or sherry, half an anchovy, a blade or two of mace, 
one small onion, and a little Cayenne pepper; strain 
through a hair sieve; pour a little over the ducks, and 
serve the remainder in a boat. 


To Roast a Pig WHOLE. 


The pig should not be over six weeks old, and a butter- 
ball for fatness, the weight not to exceed twelve or fif- 
teen pounds at most; wash it well; stuff with crumbs of 
stale bread, powdered sage, salt, and pepper, and sew it 
up; observe to skewer the legs back, or the under part 
will not be crisp; lay it near a brisk fire until quite dry; 
then have ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the 











VIRGINIA COOKER Y:BOOK. 91 





pig with it in every part ; dredge as much flour over as 
will possibly lie, and do not touch it again until ready 
to serve; then scrape off the flour very nicely with a 
blunt knife. 

Among the people of the more remote rural districts 
the glory of the entertainment was thought to be the 
pig roasted whole, standing erect on its out-stretched legs, 
and holding an orange or rosy-cheeked apple in its mouth. 
But at the tables of “quality,” as the servants would 
have expressed it, the style of serving was thus: “ When 
the pig is done take off the ears; take out the stuffing; 
split the pig in two parts lengthways ; lay it in the dish 
with the head, ears, and feet, which have been cut off, 
placed on each side; put the stuffing in a bowl, with a 
glass of wine and as much dripping as will make it suffi- 
ciently liquid; put some of it under the pig, and serve 
the rest in a boat.” 

SOUSE. 

Cut off the pigs’ feet; throw them into a tub of salt- 
and-water; let them soak for several days, if the weather 
is cold; but if it is mild, for only a day and night; then 
clean them, and put them in fresh salt-and-water; let 
them stay a day; scrape them again; wash them nicely, 
and throw them into a pot of clear water, holding a lit- 
tle salt; boil until you can run a straw into the skin; 
then take the feet from the fire and put them into cold, 
strong brine; take them from this brine and _ transfer 
them to a jar of vinegar-and-water only a few days be- 
fore you want them for table use. Therefore it is bet- 
ter to take from the brine only a few at a time, as 
they will keep there any length of time. The usual way 
of cooking souse is to split the feet in half and fry 
them nicely, in that case using as a sauce mustard, vine- 
gar, and catsup. 


92 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


To Roast a Hauncu or VENISON. 


Venison is finest in autumn or early winter, and keeps 


longer than any other fresh meat, no other care being 


necessary for keeping it from three to four weeks than to 
hang it up in a cool, dry place. When bought at market 
any taint may be best discovered by plunging a knife into 
the flesh nearest the thigh-bone, which is the part that 
would spoil first, and betray its condition by bad odor. 
The haunch is the handsomest joint to set before a large 
company; a fine one weighs from twenty to twenty-five 
pounds, and when cooked in a stove requires as much as 
five hours for its thorough roasting. To keep in the 


_ juices and protect the fat cover the joint with a greased — 


paper first, and over that lay a paste made of flour-and- 
water. Baste frequently with lard and butter, and re- 
move the envelope when ready to serve. 

To dress the haunch for the table, fold up double pes 
sheets of letter-paper, cut, crimp, and turn them over, so 
as to form a broad ruffle around the hock end, and send 
it to the table on a large, flat dish, ungarnished, but with 
the accompaniment of a glass of currant jelly. The Eng- 
lish often serve in addition a piquant sauce, for which the 
recipe will be found under the proper heading. 

From the meat unused the first day many a nice stew 
may be prepared, when one gets tired of the plain cold 
meat, which, however, is exceedingly nutritious, and at 
the same time delicate enough to tempt the ae of a 
confirmed invalid. 


To Roast A SHOULDER OF VENISON. 
(From The English Housewife."’) 


Make a seasoning with salt and pepper, nutmeg and 
pounded cloves; lard the shoulder of venison with fine 





‘ 
fe 


i: ent betel tele ha 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. — 93 





bacon, and then season it very well in every part with 
this seasoning. Put into a dish a quart of white wine 
and a pint of vinegar, add some salt, half a dozen bay- 
leaves, and a stick of broken cinnamon. Stir all this 
well together, and then lay in the larded venison ; turn 
it once in half an hour, and from time to time pour some 
of the liquor upon the upper side of it with a spoon. 
When it has been four hours soaking lay it down to 
roast; let it be at a moderate distance from the fire, and 
let it be well done, basting it all the time with the liquor. 

When the venison is enough done strain the dripping 
out of the pan, and add to it some rich soup stock; or, if 
that be not in readiness, add some very strong gravy, and 
thicken it up with flour and butter; when it is ready to 
serve up squeeze in a quarter of a lemon, and add a cup- 
ful of capers, minced, and some black pepper. This sauce 
being ready, lay the venison handsomely in a dish, and 
pour the sauce upon it. 

A shoulder of venison in the common way of dressing 
is but a very indifferent joint; but when it is thus man- 
aged many prefer it to a haunch. It is moist, rich, and 
excellently flavored. 


A VENISON Pasty. 
a (From * The English Housewife.’’) 


- Cut to pieces a fine fat neck of venison; season it with 
pepper and salt after you have taken out the bones, and 
take care to keep the fine fat part of the neck as entire as 
possible. Make a good puff paste in sufficient quantity, 
and, if a larger pasty is intended, more venison from other 
parts may be added, but nothing excels a pasty made of 
the neck alone. Lay a good bottom crust in a baking-dish, 
then a thick side crust, and then lay in the venison; put 
the coarser part lowermost, and the finest of the fat just at 


94 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


the top, that nothing may hurt it; put in half a pound of 
butter, and a little more than a quarter of a pint of wa- 
ter; cover the pasty with a good thick top crust, and then 
put it in the oven to bake. It will take two hours’ baking 
in a steadily heated oven. 

While the pasty is baking set on the bones in a sauce- 
pan with two quarts of water, and put ina bunch of sweet 
herbs and an onion, two blades of mace, a dozen corns 
of whole pepper, a crust of bread burnt, and cover it up 
close; let this boil till half is wasted, then strain off the 
gravy, and have it hot.. When the pasty is nicely baked 
pour it in by carefully lifting the lid, and then send up 
the pasty. There is no great difficulty in this, and no 
method makes a better pasty. 


To Roast Murron LikE VENISON. 


Take a leg of mutton and rub it over with saltpetre, 
then hang it up in a damp place for two days. Wipe it 
several times a day with a clean cloth, then put it in a 
pan. Boil a quarter of an ounce of allspice in a quart 
of red wine, and pour it boiling hot over the mutton. 
Cover it up close for two hours. Take out, spit it, and 
baste it well with the same liquor or butter. Have a 
brisk fire—one hour and a half will roast it. 

The latter part of these directions can be altered to suit 
the modern range or stove, where baking in a pan must 
be substituted for spitting and roasting ; more time must 


be allowed—indeed, double as much—for baking than 


roasting. 





a. — = a 


—_ le 


: 
4 
ry 
} 
! 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 95 


CHAPTER IX. 
MEATS (Continued). 


Beefsteak.— Beef Stew.—Mutton Stew.—Curry Powder.—Zitelli’s 
Macaroni Stew.—To Fricassee Chickens.—Fowl1 Cutlets. —Chick- 
en Pudding.—Stewed Ducks.—Stewed Chicken.—Brown Gravy 
for Ducks.—To Dress a Calf’s Head.—A Pie of Green.Com and 
Chickens.—Father Adam.—To Stew a Rump of Beef.—Sanders 
of Cold Beef.—Italian Beefsteak.—To Stew a Fresh Beef Tongue. 
—Ragout of Souse.—Beef Bouillii—A Nice Relish of Meat for 
Tea.—Venison Stew.—Blanquettes of Veal.—Baked Hash.—Veal 
Olives the French Way.—Sweetbreads with Oranges.— Sweet- 
breads 4 la Dauphine.—To Make a Handsome Dish out of an Old 
Hen.—Brunswick Stew.—Stewed Pigeons.—Rice Pie. 


BEEFSTEAK. 


Tue finest beef is required for really good steak. Steaks 
cut from three different parts of the beef are in request 
for private tables and restaurants, known as tenderloin, 
porter-house, and round steak. The last is most commonly 
scen, because, having no bone worth speaking of, it is the 
most economical cut, and having no fat, suits the many 
who have Jack Sprat’s taste, yet it is far inferior in juice 
and tenderness to the two other cuts named. ‘T'enderloin 
steak cut from prime beef cannot be excelled. Porter- 
house cut from it is next choice. Beefsteak should 
be cut in slices half an inch thick. If the beef is of the 
right quality, by no means beat it, as in this way much 
of the sweetness escapes. Have a clear bed of coals over 
which to place a griddle with slender bars, well warmed 
and greased. Lay the steak on the bars and cook it just 
to the degree that pleases the palate of those for whom 
you are providing. Some persons who like it rare insist 


96 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


that five minutes is an ample time to allow for having 


it done perfectly, while others have a disgust for any save . 


well done, thoroughly cooked meat, and would prefer their 


steak to remain over the fire for fifteen minutes. A cook ¢ 


should accommodate herself strictly to the instructions 
of her employer, and learn how to please parties who 
widely differ. 

Cooking beefsteak upon an ordinary stove is to fill a 
kitchen with the smell of burnt fat, which may be avoided 
by having a charcoal brazier for this purpose put in some 
airy place, the charcoal supplying good heat, without 
smoke. 

No gravy is so good as the pure juice from the meat, 
joined with a little butter added to the meat as soon as 
it is lifted from the gridiron. Pepper the steak when 
first put upon the gridiron, but let salt be added to taste 
at table. Mustard should always be at hand, ready 
mixed, for those who like it as a condiment for their 
beefsteak. 

Breer Stew. 

Few persons care to stew raw meat, but, as a way of 
serving up what is left of a roasted joint so that it may 
make a hot and appetizing dish, stewing is highly esteemed. 
Cut off, then, as much of a cold joint as will furnish enough 
food for your family, and about one hour before dinner- 
time lay it in a stewpan that has a lid to it; add butter 
in proportion to the size of the dish, or, if you have been 
provident enough to set aside a good portion of yester- 
day’s gravy, you will need almost none; cut into rings 
a boiled carrot, also a whole pickled cucumber, chop up 
a fraction of an onion, and two or three cold potatoes, 
adding pepper and salt to your taste, as also a teaspoonful 
of whole allspice; then add a little hot water, cover up 
your stewpan closely, and set it where it may stew gently 


“75 ° 
ALOE en ee Ae 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK, 9% 


until the hour comes for serving; send it to table in a 
covered dish, and, if carefully prepared, the chances are 
that the family will enjoy it more than many a more 
elaborate preparation. 3 


Moutron Stew. 


To two pounds of the cooked meat cold put one spoon- 
ful of currant jelly —or, if you have no jelly at hand, 
brown sugar instead; two table-spoonfuls of butter, two 
table-spoonfuls of walnut catsup, pepper and salt to taste, 
with a dash of whatever spice you fancy, or none at all, 
if your taste leads you to prefer simple food. This stew 
greatly resembles venison in taste, but, as some persons 
dislike any sweet taste about their meat, the currant jelly 
may be dispensed with, and the same vegetables used in- 
stead that were recommended for beef stew. Celery- 
salt is 4 modern acquisition to the house-keeper’s list of 
condiments for made dishes that may well be called in 
to help in such a case. Curry powder, too, may be ap- 
pealed to, but in moderation, where most Americans are 
concerned. Here is a recipe for it, that those who desire 
it may add it to their store-closet. 


Curry PowpER. 


One ounce of turmeric, one ounce of coriander seed, one 
ounce of white ginger, one ounce of nutmeg, one ounce 
of mace, one ounce of Cayenne pepper. Pound all up 
together and pass through a fine sieve; bottle and cork 
well. One teaspoonful is enough to flavor a dish of 
stewed meat. 


ZITELLIS MACARONI STEW. 


Take half a pound of real Italian macaroni, boil it in 
plenty of water, slightly salt, until soft; take one quart of 
| 5 


98 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


tomatoes, half a pint of water, and two ounces of fat ba- 
con; cut into small pieces one onion and a small bunch 
of parsley ; boil these all together apart from the maca- 
roni for half an hour; then pass the mixture through a 
colander ; add a tablespoonful of butter, and season with 
pepper and salt to your taste; put it on the fire again, 
and let it boil five minutes; let the macaroni and tomato 


sauce both be very hot; in a tureen place a layer of the 


macaroni covered with grated cheese; then pour a ladle- 
ful of the sauce, and repeat the layers until all the arti- 
cles are dished. - It must be served up as a soup and eaten 
in deep plates, although not liquid. If there is any sauce 
left after the directions are followed out, pour it over the 
top. 

To FRicAssEE CHICKENS. 

Cut two spring chickens into quarters, and, with their 
livers and gizzards, put them on to stew in half a pint 
of cold water. Let them cook until done, but not until 
they fall to pieces. For seasoning put a table-spoonful 
of butter, a salt-spoonful of salt, pepper and parsley to 
taste; also a little nutmeg, if you like the flavor; beat 
up four eggs, and, after pouring to them gradually a little 
of the hot gravy, add them to the chickens, thicken the 
gravy with a little flour from your dredging-box, stir 
rapidly, and serve up before there is danger of curdling. 


Fow.u CvutueEts. 


Bone a full-grown pullet, and from the flesh off the legs, 
wings, breast, and merrybone make six cutlets thus: Flat- 
ten and give them a good shape. Take the remainder of 
the fowl, including the liver, and pound it up in a mortar 
for a force-meat, adding to it a pinch each of pepper and 
salt, with a spoonful of gravy; brush the cutlets over with 
egg; spread the force-meat over them, and then brush 





z ——? | es 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 99 


again with egg; cover with bread-crumbs and fry the 

cutlets a light brown in hot lard, and serve with brown 
Tavy. 

ret CHICKEN PupDING. 

Cut four young chickens up into quarters and put them 
to stew in a saucepan, with a large spoonful of butter, 
and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and celery or parsley. 
While the chicken is stewing make a batter of six eggs, 
a quart of milk, a light pint of flour, and a table-spoonful 
of butter, pouring off most of the gravy, to be reserved 
for the sauce-boat; arrange the chickens in the bottom of 
an earthen-ware baking-dish, pour the batter over them, 
and bake in a steadily-heated oven; add the giblets to 
the gravy left out, season it nicely, thicken, and serve in 
a butter-boat. This is a favorite Virginia dish, and was 
sometimes made richer by the addition of four more eggs 
to the batter, another spoonful of butter, and a few thin 
slices of ham to the chicken. The above proportions we 
deemed sufficient to suit the tastes and larder of most 
persons. 

STEWED Ducks. 

See that the ducks are nicely picked, and stuff them 
with bread-and-butter flavored with onions, pepper, and 
a few celery-seeds; flour them, then brown them in lard 
in a frying-pan. Have ready an iron stewpot, put in a 
few slices of ham, two chopped onions, water, pepper, and 
salt, with a few blades of mace; put in the ducks and let 
them stew gently but constantly for two hours; flour the 
ducks each time that you turn them in the pot; thicken 
the gravy with butter rolled in flour. 


STEWED CHICKEN. 


Two onions browned in flour or lard; cut the chicken 
into pieces, and put in a little pepper, salt, pot-marjoram, 


100 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


thyme, and a pinch of ginger, with a large spoonful of 
butter ; cover with water, and let it stew closely covered. 


When sufficiently done to dish take the yolks of two ~ 


eggs, mixed with a little parsley and flour, and put into 
the gravy. 

The above recipe was furnished by a famous house- 
keeper, but for our own part we prefer, instead of so 
many seasonings, plain butter, pepper, and salt, with the 
addition of some one herb, such as parsley or celery-leaves. 


Brown Gravy FoR Ducks. 


Make a spider quite hot; keep it on the fire; put into 
it a table-spoonful of butter; let it boil up; throw into 
it a dessert-spoonful of brown sugar; stir them together 
as they boil till brown; dredge in flour sufficient to thick- 
en them; continue to stir; add your dripping and as much 
boiled water—in which, however, you. should have first 
boiled sweet herbs, such as onion and celery—as will make 
enough gravy for your dish, not forgetting to add pepper, 
and cautiously of salt as well. Stew your giblets also with 
the onions and a bunch of sweet herbs, adding them to 
the gravy instead of plain water. Keep it stewing until 
ready to dish. 


To Dress a Catr’s Heap. 


Take the head before it is skinned, parboil it, and take 
out the bones ; cut the flesh into small pieces; take also 
some of the liver, heart, and tongue; cut them up and 
put them in an oven with enough water to cover them ; 
then add to them a flavoring of salt, pepper, thyme, a few 
cloves, and blades of mace, with parsley and a spoonful 
of butter; then dredge well with flour, and put it on to 
stew. For force-meat balls take a pound and a half of 
meat cut from the leg of a veal, if ready cooked and cold 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 101 


all the better; add to this the brains that have been 
boiled, tied up in a thin piece of linen; season as you did 
the rest of the dish ; chop up fine ; mix it up with egg 
into small balls, which must be rolled in bread-crumbs, 
and fried in lard. Arrange the stew in the middle of a 
rather deep meat-dish, and garnish with these force-meat 
balls, and, if you would have the dish yet handsomer, 
garnish also with hard-boiled eggs sliced in rings. 


A Pir or GREEN CorRN AND CHICKENS. 


Take eighteen ears of corn and cut off the grains, so 
as to get the sweet part next the cob; season them with 
pepper and salt; have three spring chickens cut into quar- 
ters and parboiled, with their gizzards and livers, as you 
would for any other pie; have a baking-dish ready, cover 
the bottom of it with corn, then put in the chicken, dotted 
over with pieces of butter; then put in the water in which 
the chicken was parboiled ; sprinkle with pepper and salt, 
then add the rest of the corn, and set in the stove to bake 
for about an hour, or until set and brown. 


Faturer ApAM. 


Whence the name came nobody knows, but the dish 
that bears it is one that is a favorite for common use with 
every family where it is known. When you have a cold 
roast of beef cut off as much as will half fill a baking- 
dish suited to the size of your family; put this sliced 
beef into a stewpan with any gravy that you may have 
also saved, a lump of butter, a bit of sliced onion, and a 
seasoning of pepper and salt, with enough water to make 
plenty of gravy; thicken it, too, by dredging in a table- 
spoonful of flour; cover it up on the fire, where it may 
stew gently, but not be in danger of burning. Meanwhile 
there must be boiled a sufficient quantity of potatoes to 


102 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOKE. 





fill up your baking-dish after the stewed meat has been 
transferred to it. The potatoes must be boiled done, 
mashed smooth, and beaten up with milk and butter, as 
if they were to be served alone, and placed in a thick 
layer on top of the meat. Place the dish in an oven, and 
let it remain there long enough to be brown. ‘There 
should be a goodly quantity of gravy left with the beef, 
that the dish be not dry and tasteless. Serve with it 
tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, or any other kind 
that you prefer. A good, plain dish. 


To Stew A Rump or BEEF. 


Take out as much of the bone as you can with a saw, 
that it may be flat in the dish; stuff it with a force-meat ; 
lay it in a pot with two quarts of water, a pint of red 
Wine, some carrots and turnips cut small, and strewed 
over it, a head of celery and a small onion cut up, some 
pounded cloves, pepper, and salt. Stew it gently until 
done tender; skim the fat off; thicken the gravy a little 
with brown flour, and serve it up with a garnishing of the 
vegetables with which it was flavored. 


SANDERS OF CoLp BEEF. 


Mince beef, mutton, or veal small, with pepper and 
salt enough to season; add a little gravy; put it into 
scollop-shells or a baking-dish, covered over with mashed 
potatoes beaten light with cream ; put a bit of butter on 
the top, and brown them in an oven. 


ITALIAN BEEFSTEAK, 


Cut a steak from any tender part; beat it and season 
with a little onion, pepper, and salt; lay it in an iron 
stewpan that has a cover to fit close, with a spoonful of 
butter and two spoonfuls of water; let it steam thus very 








VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 103 


slowly for two or three hours, taking care not to let it 
burn, and it will be very tender. 


To Stew a Fresu Beer Toncue. 


Put a fresh tongue in water sufficient to cover it, and 
let it simmer for six or seven hours; skim the gravy well; 
half an hour before dishing it add half a wineglass of 
wine, half a wineglass of walnut catsup, a little mace, 
and a few cloves to the gravy, and stew them a while 
together. 

| -Racout oF Sous. 

Take as many pig’s-feet out of brine as will make a 
dish for your family; split, flour, and fry them brown 
in nice boiling lard; have a small stewpan set on the fire 
holding a little rich gravy, highly seasoned with oysters, 
mustard, pepper, salt, and vinegar; thicken it a little with 
toasted flour and: a very little brown sugar; put in the 
feet and stew them slowly until done enough. When 
sent to table a few fried oysters laid over the dish look 
well—and taste better. 


Breer Bovl tt. 


Take the thigh-bone out of a rump of beef, wash it, 
then pour a gill of vinegar over it; dredge it well with 
flour, put it in a pot large enough to turn conveniently, 
pour over it three pints of water, then put the pot over 
the fire until it boils. Prepare and cut up small pieces 
of carrots, cabbages, potatoes, and turnips, nearly a pint- 
bowlful of each, which must be added to the beef; also 
two onions sliced, a sprig of sweet marjoram, then season 
all with two table-spoonfuls of salt, and nearly one of 
black pepper. When the pot has come to a boil it may 
then be set over coals, close-covered, on the hearth; if 
you cook on a stove, setting on the back part will answer 


104 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


the same end; it should be kept stewing constantly, but 
slowly, at least five hours; as there will not be liquor 
enough to cover it, the beef should be frequently turned 
over in the pot; pickled capers and cucumbers are a great. 
improvement to the sauce. 


A Nice Reuisu or Meat ror TEa. 


When a spiced round has been doing service for some 
weeks, say, in a small family, growing rather dry and 
hard, it may be made more palatable than at first by 
grating it up with a common kitchen grater, piling it up 
daintily upon a small meat-dish, and putting it upon the 
tea-table, where due honor will surely be done to it. Fine 
cheese grated up in the same way also makes a good rel- 
ish. Parmesan cheese is hardly used in any other way. 


VENISON STEW. 


Cut a nice dishful of slices from a haunch of venison 
and put them in a stewpan, with one cucumber pickle cut 
up, one glass of currant jelly, two ounces of butter (or a 
table-spoonful), a little pepper and salt, and one table- 
spoonful of flour; intersperse the seasoning through the 
meat, and stew together till well done, serving hot, and 
helping upon well-warmed plates. 


BLANQUETTES OF VEAL. 


Roast a loin of veal, and cut the flesh from the bone in 
thin, small pieces, leaving out all the fat, skin, and sinew; 
set on a stewpan with a little butter, peel three or four 
onions, and, having thrown away the outer skins, chop the 
rest very fine; put this into the butter to fry a little; then 
put to it a dust of flour and a little veal gravy; stir it all 
well together, and then put in a bunch of sweet herbs 
and some mace; season it with pepper and salt, and when 


a a 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 105 





. it tastes well put in the veal; beat up a couple of yolks 
of eggs with a gill of cream, and grate in a little nutmeg ; 
add some shallot, a spoonful of chopped parsley, and some 
grated lemon-rind ; stir it about, and take out the bunch 
of sweet herbs; keep stirring it all the time one way, and 
when it is properly browned, and tender through and 
through, serve it up. 


BakeEp Hasu. 


Cut up small any kind of cold fresh meat; add to it 
about one-third the quantity of bread-crumbs, with a lump 
of butter cut up, a little chopped onion, and a good deal 
of black pepper and salt; put these articles well mingled — 
in a baking-dish that they will fill, and cover them over 
with milk ; let it soak in till the bread is perfectly soft ; 
stir it well up together and bake. If you have been provi- 
dent enough to save the gravy from the roast of the day 
before, it will answer just as well as butter in the com- 
position of this appetizing breakfast dish. 


VeraL Ontves THE Frenco Way. 


Cut into small pieces, of about three fingers’ breadth, 
and a finger’s thickness, three pounds of fine veal; chop 
to pieces a quarter of a pound of beef marrow; wash a 
couple of anchovies, take out the bones, and cut them to 
pieces; mix this with the marrow; grate over it some nut- 
meg; break to pieces the yolks of two eggs boiled hard 
for that purpose;.chop to pieces some fresh mushrooms 
and a dozen and a half of large oysters without the beards; 
strip some thyme and sweet marjoram leaves from the 
stalks; add some salt, pepper, and a very little beaten 
mace, and mix all well together; have a veal caul clean 
and ready, and cut some thin slices of fat ham ; when all 
this is ready begin to put the whole together; spread the 

5* 


106 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


caul open, and lay in some slices of ham nearly to cover 
it; then put upon this a thin covering of the seasonings 
prepared; upon this lay some of the veal, and upon that 
some more of the seasoning, then some ham again, etc., 
until all is in; then roll up the caul with the whole in it, 
and roast it; if the fire be brisk, an hour will be enough 
to allow for this part of the process. When it is nearly 
done make the sauce thus: Take some of the drippings, 
skim well, add a little water, and then thicken with a tea- 
spoonful of brown flour, and a few bread-crumbs toasted 
in butter. When the meat is to be served cut it all up 
into thick slices, lay them upon a dish in handsome order, 
and pour some of the gravy over it hot. Garnish with 
rings of hard-boiled egg and thin slices of lemon. 


SWEETBREADS WITH ORANGES. 


Choose the largest and finest sweetbread you can get, 
gash it very lightly in two or three places, then baste it 
well with butter; when this is done squeeze a Florida 
orange carefully over it, that some of the juice may get 
into the gashes, sprinkle with pepper and salt, tie it to a 
spit, and let it be carefully and thoroughly roasted; when 
the sweetbread is nearly done prepare a little rich gravy, 
take up the sweetbread, squeeze another orange over it, 
and pour some of the gravy over it hot; serve on a flat 
dish, garnished with thin slices of orange, from which the 
seeds have been extracted. 


SWEETBREADS A LA DAUPHINE. 


Choose three very large and fine sweetbreads: this 
number makes a handsome dish. Roast a grown pullet, 
and cut off all the flesh from the breast; cut half a pound 
of ham in very thin slices, fat and lean together, and 
mince these extremely small. When these are mixed to- 


Pyro ll 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 107 


gether put them into a marble mortar, add some lemon- 
peel shred very fine, some shred parsley, and a little 
grated nutmeg. Beat all these well together in the mor- 
tar, and when they are thoroughly mixed put in as much 
yolk of egg as will make them a good, firm paste. _ 

This force-meat is for the stuffing of the sweetbreads. 

When it is thus got ready open the three sweetbreads, 
stuff them well with it, and then fasten them together 
with fine, small wooden skewers. Set a stewpan on the 
fire, lay in the bottom of it some thin slices of ham, strew 
over them a seasoning of salt, pepper, and mace, and last 
of all scatter upon them some slices. of onion cut into 
very small and thin sheets; lay upon the ham thus sea- 
soned some very thin slices of veal, and upon these lay 
the sweetbreads ; cover the stewpan close, and set it over 
a slow fire for ten minutes. 

When this stewpan is set on let there be another set 
on with a quart of veal broth; this will boil by the time 
the sweetbreads are ready for it, and it must then be 
poured gently into the pan; let this be covered up and 
set over a very gentle fire to stew for two hours; then 
uncover the pan and take out the sweetbreads; strain -off 
the gravy, that will now be very fine; skim off the fat, 
and boil it till there is not more than half a pint left. 
When it is thus rich put in the sweetbreads; let them 
stew in it five minutes, that all may be hot together; then 
take them out, lay them regularly in a dish, and pour 
gravy over them; garnish the dish with quarters of lemon 
cut thin. 


To Mager a Hanpsome Disu our or AN OLp Hen. 


Take an old hen and boil it in water till the bones drop 
out ; spread it upon a dish, and remove all the bones care- 
fully; chop the meat up fine; put it back again in a ket- 


108 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


tle of the water in which it was boiled, with half a box 
(that is, one ounce) of gelatine, first dissolved in a little 
cold water; season very highly with what you like—pep- 
per, celery salt, and powdered thyme, for instance—and 
boil for a few minutes ; put away in a mould, and when 
cold it will have jellied and be a very appetizing dish. 


Brunswick STEw. 


This stew is famed for its excellence throughout the 
State, and takes its name from the county where it origi- 
nated and is found in perfection. Squirrel forms its ba- 
sis, and hence it is especially the huntsman’s dish, and 
seen most often during the early fall, when the squirrels 
throng and. fatten in the corn-fields, and vegetables are 
still plentiful. 

For eight or ten persons allow four squirrels, skinned 
and well cleaned ; cut them up into six pieces each, and 
as early in the morning as possible put them on the fire 
in a covered stewpan, with a seasoning of salt and pepper, 
both red and black, and an onion chopped up fine. 

After the meat has cooked for several hours withdraw 
it from the fire, and extract as many of the bones as it is 
practicable to do; then return it to the fire, adding some 
of every vegetable that you can get, except rice—there 
must be none of that. Especially see that there is a pint 
of green corn, cut from the cob, a quart of tomatoes, half 
a pint of Lima beans, a pint of Irish potatoes, one cucum- 
ber, one cymling, one carrot, and half a pint of okra. 
Cut them all up into small pieces; cover your stewpan up 
closely, and, adding a good table-spoonful of butter, let 
the stew cook gently, without burning, until dinner is to 
be dished, when it should have cooked until the ingredi- 
ents of which it is made cannot be distinguished the one 
from the other.- When done the gravy should be nearly 








VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 109 


absorbed. Serve ina regular plated stew-dish that is kept 
heated by an alcohol-lamp; but if you have not this con- 
venience, arrange the stew in the centre of a meat-dish, 
and garnish with rings of carrot and sprigs of any green 
herb you fancy. | 

A Brunswick stew may also be concocted in a similar 
fashion from a cold joint of mutton, beef, or veal, and is 
a very popular dish wherever introduced. It has been 
served at gentlemen’s dinner-parties instead of soup. 


STEWED PIGEONS. 


Take six fat young pigeons, put them in a pot, with a 
slice of pork beneath them, cut the thickness of a silver 
dollar, and two table-spoonfuls of butter, but no water at 
all. Let them remain over a gentle fire for two hours, 
keeping the pot well covered; during this time put in a 
handful of chopped onions and parsley; stir now and then, 
to prevent burning; after two hours put in the pot half a 
tumbler of claret, with a ttle red pepper, salt, and cloves. 
Let the pigeons stew for half an hour longer, then take a 
little of the gravy from the pot and thicken it with a tea- 
spoonful of flour; return this to the pot, and stir well. 
Have ready some slices of hot buttered toast on a dish, 
and upon these lay the birds; pour the gravy over the 
whole. Mutton-chops cooked in the same way are very 
good. 

Rice Pre. : 

Take two large or three small chickens, and eut them 
up and half fry them; then boil one and a half pints of 
rice until the grains are done. One large spoonful of 
butter, stirred into the rice while hot. Beat up five eggs 
well, and stir them into the rice, with a little salt and 
pepper; nutmeg also if the flavor is admired. Put the 
chickens into a baking dish, and cover them with the 
rice. Brown in an oven not too hot. 


110 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


CHAPTER X. 
CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 


Cucumber Catsup, No, 1.—Cucumber Catsup, No. 2.—Tomato Sa- 
voy.—Chelsea Sauce.—Pepper Sauce.—Cranberry Sauce.—Celery 
Sauce.—Drawn-butter Sauce.—Dutch Sauce.—Fish Sauce. —Lob- 
ster Sauce.—Sauce for Rockfish.—Sauce for Roasted Wild Duck. 
—Egg Sauce.—Sauce for Venison.— Green Tomato Catsup.— 
Cold Tomato Sauce.—Sauce for Lettuce.—Mint Sauce for Lamb. 
—Apple Sauce for Goose.—Russian Sauce.—Tomato Catsup, Nos. 
1,2,and 3.—A Nice Store Sauce.—Tomato Sauce.—Oyster Sauce. 
—Cucumber Sauce.—Bay Sauce.—Gooseberry Catsup.— Walnut 
Catsup, No. 1.—Walnut Catsup, No. 2.—Cucumber Catsup.— 
Worcestershire Sauce. 


CucumBer Catsup, No. 1. 


Take fair-sized cucumbers, such as are sliced for table 
use. Peel them and grate. To two quarts of grated cu- 
cumber put eight onions chopped fine, two table-spoonfuls 
of black pepper, three table-spoonfuls of salt, one tea- 
spoonful of Cayenne pepper, one pound of white sugar, and 
bottle, corking and sealing up tight. Cover with vinegar. 


CucuMBER Catsup, No, 2. 


Take three dozen well- -grown cucumbers and. six hte 
silver-skin onions. Peel both and chop as fine as possi- 
ble. Sprinkle upon them half a pint of salt, put the whole 
in a sieve, and let it drain for eight hours ; then take a 
teacupful of mustard-seed, half a cupful of ground black 
pepper, and mix them well with the cucumbers and 
onions. Put the whole in a stone jar, and fill with the 
strongest vinegar. Close very tightly. 


as, 
> 


. 
\ 








VIRGINIA~COOKERY-BOOK. lui 


Tomato Savoy. 


Have the tomatoes peeled and sliced, and boil four 
pounds of the vegetable in one pint of vinegar and two 
pounds of sugar. Season with one ounce each of cinna- 
mon, cloves, and mace. Brown sugar seasons tomatoes 
better than white. 

CHELSEA SAUCE. 

Twenty-four large ripe tomatoes, eight white onions, 
six pods of red pepper, three pints of good vinegar, eight 
table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, a teacupful of salt, one 
table-spoonful of cinnamon, one table-spoonful of allspice, 
one of nutmeg, and one of cloves. Peel the tomatoes and 
chop up the onions. Boil all together well, strain, and 
seal up while hot. Many think this sauce superior to 
tomato catsup. 

PEPPER SAUCE. 

To one peck of green peppers and four firm heads of 
cabbage chopped fine, and sprinkled with salt, add, after 
they have been kept a day and the salt is drained from 
them, a handful of horseradish, shredded and cut into 
bits, three-quarters of a pound of mustard-seed, six large 
onions chopped, and a table-spoonful of turmeric (if you 
prefer a yellow color), with a gallon of vinegar. Boil the 
spices a few minutes in half the vinegar, and pour it boil- 
ing hot over the vegetables. After cooling add the rest 
of the vinegar, cold. Put away in wide-mouthed bottles. 


CRANBERRY SAUCE. 


Put the berries, after carefully picking out defective 
ones, into a kettle with just enough water to prevent 
burning, and stew until the whole becomes a homogene- 
ous mass, with no semblance of whole berries, stirring all 
the time, and then add the clarified sirup previously pre- 


112 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


pared, and stir a few minutes while boiling. The sirup 
is made by allowing a quart of water to three pounds of 
sugar. Allow equal weights of fruit and sugar. 


CELERY SAUCE. 


Cut a clean bunch of celery into little bits and boil it 
slowly until it is tender; add half a pint of cream, a few 
blades of mace, a little nutmeg pulverized, and a heaping 
teaspoonful of butter rolled in flour ; then boil it gently. 
This is a good sauce for roasted or boiled fowls, turkeys, 
or partridges. 

DRAWN-BUTTER SAUCE. 


Put for one sauce-boatful a quarter of a pound of nice 
fresh butter in a stewpan and sect it on some embers un- 
til it begins to melt; then take it off and stir one way 
until the whole is melted. . It will be quite thick and 
white. 


Dutcu SAUCE. 


The yolks of two eggs and a gill of rich cream, two 
and a quarter table-spoonfuls of elder-flower vinegar, one 
table-spoonful of the best butter, one blade of mace, and 
flour enough creamed in to render it of the consistency 
of rich custard, which it should nearly resemble. 


Fisu Saucer. 


Put in a nicely cleaned tin saucepan a pint of port- 
wine, a gill of white-wine, half a pint of walnut catsup, 
the rind and juice of a lemon, twelve anchovies and their 
liquor, a gill of walnut pickle, four or eight shallots, Cay- 
enne pepper to taste, three ounces of scraped horseradish, 
three blades of mace, and two teaspoonfuls of made mus- 
tard. Boil gently until the rawness is gone, then put it 
in small bottles for use. Cork very close and seal. This 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 118 


quantity would serve a small family for the whole of one 
season, and will be found very convenient to have on 
hand. 

LopsTER SAUCE. 

The lobster should be chopped much smaller than ordi- 
nary, and the sauce should be composed of three parts 
cream to one of butter, a little salt, and a slight infusion 
of Cayenne pepper.. The whole of the inside and coral of 
the lobster should be beaten up with the cream and but- 
ter, and the meat then cut in. 


SAUCE FOR ROCKFISH. 


One pound of butter to be creamed, not oiled, twelve 
egos boiled hard for several hours, so that they can be 
reduced to a powder, a teacupful of thin flour-starch 
made so as to be perfectly smooth—if not, strain, so that 
it be entirely free from lumps—then stir the butter and 
starch together. To the yolks of the eggs add three or 
four salt-spoonfuls of salt, one of Cayenne pepper, two of 
black pepper, three teaspoonfuls of mustard (mixed), with 
a wineglassful of walnut catsup. The eggs, pepper, salt, 
etc., to be well mixed together before putting with the 
butter and starch. If made any while before the hour 
comes for it to be served, put the sauce where it will keep 
warm, but not hot enough for the butter to be allowed to 
oil. The above quantity is suited for a pair of large rock- 
fish, sufficient to dine a company of twenty. 


Sauce FoR Roastep WiLtp Duck. 


One salt-spoonful of salt, half to three-quarters of a 
teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, one dessert-spoonful of 
lemon juice, one ditto of pounded sugar, one ditto of 
catsup, two ditto of Harvey’s Sauce, three ditto of port- 
wine ; to be mixed, heated, and poured over the bird, it 


114 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


having previously been sliced, so that the sauce may mix 
with its own gravy. The duck must not be too well done, 
and must be put on the dish without anything. 


Kaa Sauce. 


Prepare a quarter of a pound of butter as for plain 
melted or drawn-butter sauce; boil two eggs for ten min- 
utes; chop the whites, put with the yolks and chop to- 
‘gether, but not very fine, and then stir into the sauce. 
This sauce is very nice for boiled fowls, more especially 
in the spring of the year. 


SaucE FOR VENISON. 


Claret, water, and vinegar, of each one glass; an onion 
stuck with cloves, a few anchovies, salt and pepper, of 
each a salt-spoonful; boil all together, strain, and serve 
in a sauce-boat. 


GREEN TomMATO CaTSUP. 


Put on a kettle of green tomatoes, boil them to pieces, . 


and strain through a colander; measure them, and to 
one and a half gallons of tomatoes put one pound of 
sugar, one pint of vinegar, one table-spoonful of whole 
black pepper, a double-handful of salt, two chopped 
‘onions, one table-spoonful of celery-seed, and a teaspoon- 
‘ful of powdered cloves; boil all together until the watery 
particles disappear and it becomes something like mar- 
malade; then bottle and seal. 


Coutp Tomato Sauce. 


Half a peck of ripe tomatoes, peeled and drained through 
a colander for twenty-four hours, then chopped up fine; 
put to them one small teacupful of salt, one full cup of 
sugar, one cup of white mustard-seed, one cup of nastur- 








VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 115 





tium-seed, feur table-spoonfuls of horseradish, two dozen 
stalks of celery chopped up fine, or half an ounce of. cel- 
ery-seed, two table-spoonfuls of ground black pepper, one 
quart of good vinegar; it must not be boiled; stir well, 
and bottle for use. This sauce can be used as soon as 
made. 

SAvucE FoR LETTUcE. 

Boil two eggs hard; mash the yolks with a very little 
cold water; add one teaspoonful of sugar, one of mustard, 
‘not quite one of salt; mix these well with the yolks; add 
slowly three table-spoonfuls of oil, until it is smooth, and 
one table-spoonful of vinegar; if too thick, add a table- 
spoonful of water. 


Mint SavucE FoR LAmps. 


Gather a few sprigs of branch mint, pick off the tender 
young leaves after washing the mint clean; lay them in 
a plate and chop up fine with a common dinner-knife ; 
put the mint in the bottom of a sauce-boat, add a full 
table-spoonful of white sugar, two table-spoonfuls of vin- 
egar, and half a gill of ice-water. This sauce is indispen- 
sable for young lamb in the spring months. 


-APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE. 


Peel, core, and cut up a gallon of pippins or other 
fresh apples; stew them, with a little water added, grate 
in a bit of the peel of a lemon and all its juice; sweeten 
to your taste when the apples are done very tender, mash 
them up perfectly smooth, and serve. 


Russian SAUCE. 


Four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, two 
of made mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful 
of sugar, and vinegar enough to cover. 


116 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Tomato Carsup, No. 1. 


Boil the tomatoes well, seasoning them to taste with 
salt ; strain them through a sieve; to every gallon of 
liquor put one quart of vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of 
mustard, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, 
half an ounce of red pepper, twelve cloves of garlic, or 
their equivalent in onion, and half an ounce of ginger; 
crack up all these spices, put them in a thin muslin bag, 
and simmer six hours over the fire in a preserving-kettle. 
Sugar to be put in or left out as you like. : 


Tomato Cartsup, No. 2. 


One peck of tomatoes, half a dozen onions chopped fine, 
two table-spoonfuls of whole black pepper, one table- 
spoonful of allspice, one table-spoonful of cloves, two of 


celery-seed, two of ground mustard, four of salt, or more, - 


if that is not enough to your taste; half a pound of brown 
sugar. . Measure the spices whole, but pound them all up 
fine afterward, the tomatoes to be strained clear of skin 
and seed, and the onions to be chopped as fine as possible. 


Tomato Catsup, No. 8. 


One gallon of tomato juice, two pounds of sugar, seven 
table-spoonfuls of salt, four table-spoonfuls of black pep- 
per, half a table-spoonful of allspice, three table-spoonfuls 
of mustard, half a pod of red pepper, and a little horse- 
radish. Boil well, and just before taking off the fire add 
one quart of good vinegar. 


A Nicer Srore SAvce. 


Take one gallon of ripe tomatoes, wash, and simmer 
them in three quarts of water; boil it half away, and strain 
through a sieve; when all is drained add two table-spoon- 


eo ee 
Se ee ieee. 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 11? 





fuls of ginger, one of mace, two of black pepper, two of 
salt, one of cloves, one of Cayenne pepper ; let these pul- 
verized spices simmer in the juice until it is reduced to 
one quart, pour in half a pint of best vinegar, then pour 
the whole through a hair-sieve. Bottle in half-pint bot- 
tles, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place. 


ToMATO SAUCE. 


Peel tomatoes and press through a colander. To every 
gallon of juice add two pounds of sugar, a quarter of a 
pound of salt, four onions chopped fine, two pods of red 
pepper, or one table-spoonful of Cayenne, two ounces of 
ground mustard, and half a teacupful of celery-seed. If 
you do not like a sweet sauce, omit the sugar or a portion 
of it. Just as the recipe is given it has been found a good 
appetizer eaten with beef or other meat in the spring, that 
most trying of all seasons to a house-keeper. 


OysTER SAUCE. 


Put fifty oysters, with a small quantity of their liquor, 
in a saucepan; stew them very slowly; add four ounces 
of good butter rolled in flour, four blades of mace broken 
up, and half a pint of sweet cream; beat up the yolk of 
one egg, and add for thickening just as the sauce is about 
to boil ; stir one way until everything is well mixed. Do 
not begin to prepare this sauce until about twenty min- 
utes before it is to be served, as it is very apt to curdle 
if kept a moment too long upon the fire. 


CucUMBER SAUCE. 


Chop up fine several cucumbers (the full, ripe yellow 
ones answer perfectly), sprinkle them well with salt, and 
let them stand thus for several hours; then with the hand 
press from them all the salt brine. To every quart of cu- 


118 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


cumbers thus prepared add four ounces of white mustard- 
seed, four ounces of black mustard-seed, and two pods of 
red pepper of the ordinary size. If you can procure them, 
though, use a dozen tiny pods of red pepper, such as can 
be procured in some city markets. Put in air-tight glass 
jars, and cover with vinegar; mix well together, and see 
that the covers are tight, and the sauce is made. Al- 
though fit for use immediately it will keep a year. 


Bay Sauce. 


Take one quart of strong vinegar, add four spoonfuls 
of mustard-seed (white and black), four of horseradish 
scraped, two onion bulbs, one pod of red pepper, and a 
little salt; steep cold, and it will be fit for use in two 
weeks. Bottle, and substitute it for catsup with fish or 
stewed meat. 

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP. 

Ten pounds of fruit gathered just before ripening, five 
pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, two table-spoon- 
fuls each of ground black pepper, allspice, cloves, and 
cinnamon. Boil the fruit in vinegar until reduced to a 
pulp, then add sugar and the other seasoning. 


Watnut Cartsup, No. 1. 


Prepare the walnuts as for pickle, then pound them in 
a marble mortar or an iron pot, and boil them, with vine- 
gar, garlic, and spices to your taste. Boil in an iron pot: 
it makes them black; strain and bottle for use. Put the 
walnuts away in a jar, covered with vinegar, It furnishes 
an excellent condiment for stews, fish, etc. 


Watnout Catsup, No, 2. 


Made from walnut-shells without cooking. Three gal- 
lons of. walnut-shell juice, seven pounds of salt, eight 


te ae ee a ee - 


a f 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 119 


ounces of ginger, eight ounces of shallots, eight ounces of 
garlic, eight ounces of horseradish, one quart of essence 
of anchovies, one quart of vinegar, and two pounds of 
sugar. , 
CucumMBErR CarTsup. 

No cooking required. ‘Three large cucumbers peeled 
and grated, one handful of horseradish scraped and cut 
into thin little bits, one onion peeled and chopped up 
fine, one pint of cider vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one teaspoonful of black pepper. Six tiny pods of dwarf 
Cayenne pepper add to the flavor and look pretty. Mix 
all the ingredients together. Put the catsup in wide- 
mouthed bottles, cork, seal, and keep in a dry place. 


W ORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE. 


Take one gallon ripe tomatoes, wash and simmer them 
in three quarts of water, boil down, and strain through 
a sieve. When all is drained add two table-spoonfuls of 
ginger, two of mace, two of whole black pepper, two of 
salt, one of cloves, one of Cayenne. Let them simmer 
in the juice until reduced to one quart; pour in half a 
pint of best vinegar; pour the whole through a hair- 
sieve; bottle in half-pint bottles, cork down tightly, seal, 
and keep in a cool place. 


120 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER XI. 
VEGETABLES. 


Artichoke.—Asparagus.—French, or Snap Beans.—Lima Beans.— 
Beets.—Carrots.—Cabbage.—Cabbage Pudding, No. 1.—Cabbage 
Pudding, No. 2.—Cauliflower and Broccoli.—To Boil Corn on the 
Ear.—To Stew Corn, No. 1.—To Stew Corn, No. 2.—To Fry Corn. 
—To Bake Corn.—To Cook Dried Corn.—To Cook Cucumbers.— 
Cymlings, or Summer Squash.— To Bake Egg-plant.—To Fry 
Egg -plant.— Grits, or Small Hominy.—To Bake Grits.— Fried 
Grits.—To Boil Hominy.— Macaroni.— Okra.— Onions.— Onions 
a la Créme.-—To Boil Old Potatoes.—To Boil Irish Potatoes.—To 
Steam Potatoes.—Mashed Potatoes.—Baked Potatoes.—Fried Po- 
tatoes for Dinner.—Sweet Potatoes.—Irish Potatoes Roasted.— 
Parsnips.—Green Peas.—Dried Peas or Beans.—To Boil Rice.— 
A Colored Cook Tells how to Dress Rice.—Baked Rice.—To Fry 
Salsify.—To Stew Salsify.—To Bake Salsify.—To Stew Spinach. 
—To Broil Tomatoes.—To Bake Tomatoes.—To Stew ‘Tomatoes. 
—Forced Tomatoes.—Turnips.—Turnip-tops.—Baked Turnips.— 
Corn and Tomatoecs—Tomatoes with Eggs, 


ARTICHOKE. 


THERE are two kinds of artichoke used as vegetables, 
The first was frequently seen on the tables of the rich in 
old Virginia, rarely now. It is a thistle-like plant, and 
the part brought to table is the cone-shaped head, the 
bottom, as it is called, being considered a great delicacy. 
To prepare them for food trim off the outside leaves 
neatly, and boil in salt-and-water until tender. If young 
half an hour will be time enough. Serve in a covered 
dish, with accompaniment of a boat of creamed butter 
sauce. Special little cups should be set at each cover for 
the sauce, to which individuals add at pleasure pepper, 
salt, and vinegar. .Hach person pulls out the choke for 
himself and dips the edible part into his cup of sauce. 








VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK., 121 


Another way of serving artichokes is to send them to 
table raw, just as we do radishes. To eat them this way 
they must be gathered when very young and tender, cut 
through the bottom into quarters, and the choke removed. 
Thus they are accounted delicious, having the flavor of a 
fine nut. The sauce used is usually one of pepper, salt, 
vinegar, and olive oil. 

Jerusalem artichoke is an entirely different vegetable. 
The part eaten is its tuber-like root. Boil them as pota- 
toes are boiled, being careful to cook them rapidly, and 
dish without delay, as they are spoiled by standing for any 
length of time. Pour over them a little butter and cream 
when sent to table. 

ASPARAGUS, | 

In Virginia asparagus is not allowed to show itself 
more than an inch above ground at farthest. The gar- 
dener slips his knife underground and cuts the stalk off 
four or five inches beneath the surface. Thus cut, if the 
beds are rich and well-tended, the white part is just as 
tender as the blossom end. Well grown it should be 
nearly or quite an inch in diameter. 

Let the cook scrape well, to make sure of leaving no 
part stringy or tough, and lay the stalks in cold water 
until about half an hour before dinner; then tie up the 
asparagus into two bundles for one dishful, put it into 
boiling water into which you have thrown a dessert- 
spoonful of salt, and cook until tender. Have ready- 
toasted several slices of stale bread, dip them into the 
water in which the asparagus was boiled for one second 
only, butter well, and lay in the bottom of your vegeta- 
ble-dish. Cut the string from your bundles of asparagus 
and remove them just as you dish it, and serve, under 
cover, ho¢. Put a good table-spoonful of nice fresh butter 
on the asparagus, in addition to that put upon the toast. 

6 


122 ; VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


FRENCH, OR SNAP BEANS. 


Cut off the stalk end first, then turn to the point and 
strip off the strings. If not quite freshly gathered, have 
a bowl of salt-water (only a little salt) standing before 
you, and as you string the beans throw them into it. 
When all are prepared put them on the fire in boiling 
water, with some salt init. In fifteen or twenty minutes 
they will be tender ; then take them out and throw them 
into a colander to drain quickly. Dish them up with a 
little butter, salt, and pepper. Butter is thought to keep 
them looking green. ; 


Lima BEANS. 


Shell them, and put them into hot water to boil, after 


letting them lie a few minutes in cold water; add a little 
salt to the water, which must only be. enough to cover 
them well. They should be done in half an hour. Drain 
and add a teaspoonful of butter to a pint of the beans. 

If Lima beans are spread out to dry in their shells, 
gathered green as for summer use, they are most useful 
in winter both for soup and as a vegetable. ‘They are to 
be soaked, then, several hours before they are put on to 
boil, which will require from four to five hours, instead of 
the few minutes allotted to them in summer. No vege- 
table is more generally liked. 


BEktTs. 


Very early in summer this vegetable is most popular, 
seldom afterward. It is important to select the earliest, 
most improved varieties for cookery. The blood-red tur- 
nip-shaped and Egyptian early are believed to be the 
best. Observe that neither the top is cut too close nor 
that the fibres of the root are torn off, unless you would 


ee as ee aa 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 123 


lose much of the sweetness and brightness of color. For 
the same reason the cook should not pierce it in any way 
to ascertain if it is done. Allow from one to two hours 
for the boiling, according to the size of your beets. 
When done peel them, and slice up in thin, round pieces, 
adding a little salt and small bit of butter, also vinegar 
for most tastes. 

If beets are left over from one dinner, by covering 
with vinegar and adding a little sugar, they make a nice 
dish the second day also. 


CARROTS 


Are to be simply boiled in hot water with a little salt 
added, after having been previously scraped free of skin 
and blemish of all sorts; split them in half lengthwise, 
and pour a little melted butter over them when dished. 
Amid the abundance of vegetables with which our coun- 
try is blessed carrots are generally despised, but the 
thrifty housewife will never be without a few of them in 
winter, for they are invaluable as a condiment in many 
stews and soups, to say nothing of serving as material 
for a delicious pudding. 


CABBAGE. 


This vegetable, so staple an article of food among out- 
of-door workers, has fallen into general disuse with the 
upper classes on account of the disagreeable odor it emits, 
permeating every corner of an ordinarily constructed 
house from garret to cellar. The best way to prevent 
this is to keep the vessel closely covered in which it boils, 
to drop in a bit of red pepper-pod and a pinch of soda, 
to allow it just time enough to cook and no more; and, 
lastly, for the cook to pour off the cabbage-water as soon 
as she lifts the cover and sends it to table. Wash the 


124 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


head nicely—one large head makes a good dish—and put 
it on in boiling water, slightly salted, after having cut it 
into quarters, and allow it forty minutes in which to cook 
over a brisk fire. Dressed as cauliflower, with drawn- 
butter sauce, it may be almost as delicate. Most persons, 
however, preferring it with some sort of salt meat, we 
give the directions for cooking it in that way thus: Hay- 
ing your ham, chine, or middling nearly ready for dinner, 
take out enough of the liquor in which it has been boil- 
ing to cover the cabbage, which had better be cooked in 
a separate stewpan, and treat it otherwise just as if it 
were plain water; drain from the liquor, and having put 
your joint of meat in the centre of a large meat-dish, put 
the cabbage all around, and you have before you the 
daily and favorite dish of nine-tenths of the country peo- 
ple, not only in Virginia, but throughout the South, with 
the addition of a plentiful supply of hot corn bread. 
More elegantly, the cabbage is frequently sent to table, 
however, separately, in a covered vegetable-dish, where 
it may be kept hot longer. 


CaBBAGE Pupprne, No. 1. 


Take one nice head of cabbage, scoop out the middle; 
prepare a rich force-meat made out of cold fowl, or fresh 
beef chopped up fine; season highly with butter, pepper, 
and salt; chop six hard-boiled eggs fine, with the force- 
meat ; fill the cavity in the cabbage with this mixture ; 
place a leaf of the cabbage over the hole to keep the 
meat in; tie it up in a cloth and boil it, serying up with 
drawn-butter sauce. 


CaBBAGE Puppine, No. 2. 


Boil a firm head of cabbage, chop it fine, and season 
with butter, pepper, and salt; add any kind of fowl or 








VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 125 


cold meat that you may happen to have, and, mixing all 
together with a pint of bread-crumbs, bake in a dish until 
nicely browned. 


CAULIFLOWER AND Broccot.t. 


Choose those heads that are close and of a middle size : 
trim off the outside leaves, and cut off the stalk flat at ‘the 
bottom; let them lie an hour in salt-water before boiling; 
put them into enough hot water to cover them, with a 
small handful of salt thrown in, and let them boil slowly 
until done; but take up instantly when this is the case, for 
a few minutes’ longer boiling will spoil them ; a small one 
will boil in fifteen, or a large one in twenty, minutes. 


To Bom Corn on THE Ear. 


Strip the husks off, and rub off smoothly every particle 
of silk; to a gallon of boiling water allow a spoonful of 
salt; drop in as many ears of corn as your family requires, 
and boil for one hour. Be very careful, in the selection of 
corn, that it be matured, but at the same time tender ; 
upon pressing the thumb-nail into the grain, if the milk 
exudes freely, it may be calculated that it is in the right 
state for boiling. 


To Stew Corn, No.4. 


The best corn for the table has a small cob, and very 
long, deep-set grains ; notice this in making your selec- 
tion for seed, or in market With a sharp knife cut 
the corn off the ear with two cuts, and then lay the cobs 
in a stewpan, covering them with water, and let them boil 
for about an hour. This extracts the sweetest part of the 
corn always lying next the cob; take the cobs out, and 
then, half an hour before dinner is to be served, put the 
cut grain into the same water and let it simmer gently 


a6. VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOE. — 


until called for; serve hot, with butter; a gill of sweet 
milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper must be put 
in the stew just long enough to be well incorporated before 
it is taken off to be dished. If these directions are pre- 
cisely followed, there is no nicer way of cooking this pe- 
culiarly popular American vegetable. 


To Stew Corn, No. 2. 


Cut off the grains, dividing each one as directed in the 


previous recipe, and then with a sharp knife scrape out 


the heart of the corn, leaving the cob quite bare, save of 
the hull; put about a quart of corn, measured after it is 
cut off, in a skillet with enough water to cover it, stir it 
frequently, and in half an hour, when it will be nearly 
done, add a gill of rich sweet milk, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a little pepper, if you choose. If the corn is not 
sweet, a teaspoonful of sugar will not be found amiss; 
a beaten egg may also be added, where a rich dish is 
desired. 
To Fry Corn. 

Cut the corn off the cob, and to a pint of it allowa 
small lump of butter, a beaten egg, and half a pint of 
sweet milk; add enough flour to enable you to make out 
the corn into small round cakes. Grease a griddle, and 
fry them till nicely browned. 


To BaxE Corn. 


This dish is so popular, that it is well to make an ample 
provision of it. Therefore, for a large family, take eigh- 
teen ears of corn, cut the grain off the cob very fine, and 
scrape down with a sharp-pointed knife; put it in a baking- 
dish with three pints of sweet milk, a table-spoonful of 
butter, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and two well-beaten 
eggs; mix all well together, butter the dish, and allow 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. _ hee 


two hours for the baking. Occasionally, if one wishes a 
richer pudding for some special company, the butter may 
be increased to a quarter of a pound, and the eggs to four; 
but the above proportions answer admirably for every- 
day use. 

To Coox Drizp Corn. 

The improvement made in drying corn has been so 
great within the last year or two that it is really almost 
as good as the fresh vegetable, if properly prepared. It 
is better to soak it in lukewarm water all night long be- 
fore it is wanted for dinner; but if the house-keeper has 
omitted this, steaming it for two hours will soften it quite 
well. It may be stewed just like green corn; but to make 
it into a pudding with milk, eggs, and butter, suits the 
taste of the majority better. For a half-gallon baking- 
dish use one pint of corn, one of milk, one egg, a lump 
of butter the size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of white 
sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and a slight sprinkling of 

epper. 
eis To Cook CucuMBERs. 

If you wish to fry them pare off the rind, then cut 
them in slices lengthwise ; dust each side with corn meal 
or flour, pepper, and salt, and fry them in lard a light 
brown. If you prefer boiling, cut them lengthwise into 
quarters, and cook precisely as you do asparagus, serv- 
ing them up also with butter, cream, and toasted bread. 
Choose for this purpose medium-sized, full-grown cucum- 
bers, and you will not be disappointed in having a nice 
and appetizing dish. 


CYMLINGS, oR SUMMER SQUASH. 


In selecting cymlings take none that the thumb-nail 
cannot easily penetrate, and the white ones are prefera- 
ble. Cut them into pieces, and boil in just enough water 


128 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


- to cover them for about three-quarters of an hour, or un- 
til soft enough to mash; strain them through a colander 
to get rid of the seeds; then return them to a skillet or 
stewpan; add a large spoonful of cream, a small lump of 
sweet butter, and a little salt and pepper. Be sure to 
send them to table hot. Colored cooks need to be warned 
not to flavor cymlings with bacon-grease, of which they 
are fond, but which is apt to render this delicious vegeta- 
ble inedible for more refined palates. 


To BakE EGG-PLANT. 


Peel and cut in slices and boil until soft; then mash 
and bake with crumbs of bread, butter, pepper, and salt, 
arranged in layers, as you would oysters or tomatoes. 


To Fry EGG-PLant. 


Choose them young and fresh (the purple variety is the 
best) ; pull out the stem and parboil them, to take out the 
bitter taste ; cut in slices an inch thick, but do not peel; 
dip them into the yolk of egg, and cover them with grated 
bread-crumbs dusted with pepper and salt. When dry cover 
the other side in the same way. Fry them a nice brown. 

This is a luscious vegetable, and deserves to come into 
more frequent use, its rarity being probably due to the 
great difficulty in raising it successfully, on account of its 
being so peculiarly susceptible to the ravages of bugs. 


Grits, on Smatt Hominy. 


Samp is another name for this preparation of shelled 
and dried corn. To half a pint allow one quart of water, 
after seeing that the grits are well washed and every dark 
speck picked out; boil carefully in a stewpan set inside 
of another one, to prevent burning, if you have not one 
made with double lining specially for such cooking. The 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 129 


great art in cooking small hominy is to have it of just the 
right consistency, neither too mushy nor too stiff and dry. 
A little experience teaches one how to manage it. If the 
_water has not been sufficiently evaporated, as the dinner- 
hour draws near move the kettle to one side, and lifting 
up the lid from time to time to let the steam escape, it 
will probably be dry enough. If it becomes too stiff add 
gradually a little more boiling water and stir well. Serve 
hot, with a seasoning of butter that should be mixed in, 
not left floating on top. 


To Bake Grits. 


A nice variety in your list of winter vegetables is sup- 
plied by taking as much boiled small hominy as will 
nearly fill a small baking-dish, adding one beaten egg, a 
gill of sweet milk, and a table-spoonful of butter, and 
then baking for a good hour or more. 


FRIED Grits. 


When a dish of grits is left over from dinner spread it 
out on a dish in a layer half an inch thick. The next day, 
for breakfast or dinner, as you choose, cut it into pieces 
of convenient size, and fry nicely in lard. With many in 
the South this is quite a favorite dish. 


To Bort Hominy. 


Wash in cold water; then soak twelve hours in tepid 
soft water; then boil slowly from three to six hours in 
the same water, more being added from time to time, to 
prevent burning. Do not salt while cooking, as either 
that or hard water will harden the corn, as is true also of 
rice, peas, or beans in their green or dry state. When 
you have hominy left from dinner it may be saved and 
fried for breakfast next morning. 


6* 


130 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


~~ 


MACARONI. 


Italian macaroni is far superior in quality to what is 
manufactured either in France or this country, and costs 
little more, as it swells greatly in cooking. Half a pound 
will fill a half-gallon dish full. Baking is the best way 
of preparing it. Throw your macaroni, broken into tol- 
erably short pieces, in boiling water, allowing it plenty 
of room to swell, and let it cook for twenty-five minutes; 
when perfectly tender take it from the water and let it 
drain through a colander; then put a layer of it in the 
bottom of a baking-dish; dot it over with bits of butter, 
adding grated cheese, Cayenne pepper, and salt; put an- _ 
other layer of macaroni, etc., until the dish is filled; pour 
in a teacupful of sweet milk; allow a quarter of a pound 
of butter to the dish; finish by grating cheese over the 
top; place the dish in the stove, and let it bake for about 
half an hour, or until nicely browned. Do not let it dry 
up too much by delay in serving. Although baked mac- 
aroni is the choice way of cooking, it may not always be 
convenient to have it done so, when stewing will answer 
very well. Follow the first part of the directions given 
above, in case you wish to stew it, only instead of drain- 
ing pour off the water till nearly dry; then add a gill of 
sweet milk or cream, flavor with grated cheese, salt, and 
Cayenne pepper, and serve simply in a covered vegetable- 
dish. 

OKRA. 

This vegetable grows well in Virginia, if not so luxu- 
riantly as farther South, and yet is rarely used save in 
soup. It is regarded as indispensable in many families 
to their daily dish of tomato soup, and for this purpose 
alone is well worth cultivating. It should be gathered 
when the pods are so tender as to have no hardness about 


ae 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 131 


them, when they must be sliced thin, and at least a pint 
allowed to a tureen; it should be put in an hour before 
dinner-time. We append a recipe for cooking okra as a 
vegetable, given by Miss M. E. W: , of Selma, Ala.: 
Put the young and tender pods of long, white okra in 
salted boiling water, in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan 
(as iron discolors it); boil fifteen minutes; take off stems, 
and serve with butter, pepper, salt, and vinegar, if pre- 
ferred; or, after boiling, slice in rings, season with but- 
ter, dip in batter, and fry; season and serve. Or stew an 
equal quantity of tomatoes and tender-sliced okra with 
one or two sliced green peppers, in a porcelain kettle, 
fifteen or twenty minutes; season with butter, pepper, 
and salt, and serve. 





ONIONS. 


In the early spring large bulbs of the white, silver- 
skinned onions not only make a very pretty dish, but are 
thought to possess valuable medicinal qualities. Cut off 
the stem-leaves, not too close, and after washing clean and 
peeling drop into cold water and boil ten minutes; pour 
off this water; add fresh cold water, and boil again the 
same length of time; pour off again, and to the third 
water add a pint of milk, and boil for an hour. _When 
ready to dish, thicken a little of the milk-and-water in 
which the onions have been boiled with a teaspoonful 
of flour and a small picce of butter; add a little salt, 
and, if you like it, sprinkle a little black pepper on top. 


Onions A LA CREME. 


Boil a dozen fine, white silver-skinned onions in several 
waters, to take out some of the pungent taste, and then 
peel them, and dry them off in a cloth until cold enough 
to handle, and slice them; have ready a good pint of 
grated bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of butter, and 


132 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


a teacupful of cream, or rich milk, if you have not cream. 
Distribute all these ingredients in layers of onion and 
seasoning alternately, with the addition of pepper’ and 
salt, and you will have a dish much admired, by gentle- 
men particularly. Finish off with a thick layer of bread- 
crumbs; pour on the cup of cream lastly, and bake for 
three-quarters of an hour. 


To Bort Oxtp PoTATOEs. 


Peel them and put them into boiling salt-water ; when 
done they must be taken out and pressed (separately) in a 
clean strong cloth until entirely free from water. Dress 
them with melted butter. 

Or, 
Put the potatoes in cold water, and when it nearly boils 
pour it off and put in cold salted water. This makes 
them mealy without cracking them. 


To Bor, Irtsu Porarors. 


The great secret of having nice potatoes is, first, to 
choose a good mealy variety, and then to cook them ex- 
peditiously, not leaving them waiting an hour or so in 
the kitchen, only to become sodden and waxy. Garden- 
ers of late have shown so much enterprise in introducing — 
improved varieties that it is hard to give the names of 
even a few of the best, and so we shall content ourselves 
with exhorting the house-keeper to be choice in her selec- 
tion of the very best that her neighborhood affords, if she 
would display her culinary art to the best advantage. 

New potatoes need not be peeled, but washed clean, 
and the soft skin rubbed off with a rough towel, as scrap- 
ing with a knife discolors them; pour off the first water 
(which may be cold when you put the potatoes in) after 
they have boiled ten minutes in it; then cover them well 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 133 


with fresh water, boiling hot, into which you have thrown 
a table-spoonful of salt ; let them boil half an hour in a 
covered kettle; then pour off the water, lift the lid of the 
kettle, and let the potatoes dry a few minutes. They are 
generally served with nothing but a little melted butter 
poured over them, but a very nice change is to take a gill 
of sweet milk and thicken it by rubbing into it mashed 
potato and a little flour until the sauce is of the consist- 
ence of very rich cream, then make it boiling-hot and 
pour over the potatoes after they are dished. Occasion- 
ally, too, a little chopped parsley may be added to this 
sauce to make another change. 


To Stream Porarors 


Is one of the nicest ways of serving them, and nowadays 
most kitchens are supplied with the convenience of a reg- 
ular steamer, with top fitting closely over a hot-water 
vessel, where not only potatoes but other vegetables may 
be carried through the steaming process. The time for 
steaming greatly depends upon the quality of the potato, 
so that no invariable rule can be given—an hour, I should 
say, is about the medium time to allow. If the potatoes 
are large and small put in the larger ones a few minutes 
in advance, so that they may be done at the same time. 


Masuep Poratoxrs 


Are either steamed or boiled,.as suits your convenience. 
Do not let the potatoes be kept waiting, but put them in 
a convenient pan or bowl, and mash them up with your 
potato-masher as smooth as possible; add a lump of but- 
ter and salt to the taste, with much or little milk or 
cream, as suits your taste or the condition of your dairy. 
If beaten up light, with plenty of cream, potatoes are a 
ereat dainty; but for every-day use they may be much 


434 VIRGINIA CUOKERY-BOOK. 


more economically served, and still be wholesome and 
palatable. 

BaxEeD PorTaTOES 
Are first boiled or steamed, then mashed and seasoned 
with butter, milk or cream, pepper, and salt, when they 
are arranged smoothly and evenly in an earthen-ware 
baking-dish, and kept in the oven until nicely browned. 


Frizp Potatrors FoR DINNER. 


Season as much mashed potato as will provide enough 
for your family, and make up with the yolk of an egg 
into little flat cakes, and fry on a well-greased griddle 
until they are of a pretty brown color. Turn them, so 
that they may be equally done on both sides. 


SWEET-POTATOES. 


The finest sweet-potatoes are grown in the tide-water 
regions of lower Virginia, where the soil is sandy and the 
winters mild. Almost all families there have a pit dug 
in some cellar, where sweet-potatoes are kept without 
difficulty all the winter through; but the most prized 
variety is too delicate for transportation, and is kept for 
home consumption. } 

The usual every-day way of cooking them is to bake 
them with the skins on, always seeing to it that a print 
of butter is put on the table to eat with them. An 
hour is the usual time allotted for their baking. <A very 
nice way is to boil or steam them until nearly done, then 
to peel them, and cut into slices half an inch through, 
piling a baking-dish full of them, interspersed with bits 
of butter; a quarter of a pound may be allowed for a 
half-gallon dish ; sprinkle on top two table-spoonfuls of 
granulated white sugar, and you can hardly have a dish 
on your table that will be more generally relished, Some- 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 185 





times also, for a change, they may be steamed or boiled, 
peeled, and sent to table in a covered dish, with a table- 
spoonful of melted butter poured over them. 

Sweet-potatoes are frequently used in Virginia, with 
the accompaniment of a rich glass of milk, as a sort of 
plain dessert at the winding up of the meat dinner. 


Irnisuo PoratoEs Roastrep. 


Doctors tell us that there is no more nourishing food 
for some classes of invalids than a good roasted potato. 
If the potato be a fine mealy one, sent up the moment it 
is done, with the addition of butter, pepper, and salt, and 
a person is hungry, what can be better? For Sunday or 
coffee dinner they are also particularly recommended. 
Be sure, though, you do not thus serve unless certain that 
they are sound to the core, and not watery or waxy. 


PARSNIPS. 


Wash, scrape, cut into halves or slice lengthwise into 
several pieces, if the roots are very large, and put on in 
a kettle of boiling water. You may expect them to be 
boiled in an hour. Serve with a little sugar, and melted 
butter poured over them; or they may be baked as di- 
rected for sweet-potatoes; or mash them up fine, when 
boiled tender, and form into little cakes with a batter 
made of a table-spoonful of flour, an egg, a small piece of 
butter, and a gill of milk. 


GREEN PRAs. 


Gather them in the morning, when quite young, the 
pods being firm but not hard, and keep them in a cool 
place. Do not shell them until just before they are to be 
cooked. Put into boiling water slightly salted ; boil fast 
for twenty or thirty minutes, according to their age; 


136 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


drain all the water from them; put in a dessert-spoonful 
of butter, a little pepper and salt, and send to table hot. 


Drirp PEaAs or BEANS 


Are better for being soaked over-night, and, being put 
into fresh water, boiled for several hours before dinner; 
drain, and flavor with butter, pepper, and salt. They may 
be mashed, strained through a colander, and worked up 
into little round balls with flour, and then mashed into 
flat cakes, dipped in the yolk of egg, and fried in a skil- 
let. Also, after mashing up a quart of them when boiled, 
flavoring as usual with butter, pepper, and salt, and well 
incorporating a pint of milk, put into a baking-dish and 
bake. White navy peas and beans, black-eyed peas, and 
Galavan peas are the most esteemed varieties. 


To Bor Rice. 


Rice being a South Carolina staple, to South Carolin- 
ians we are indebted for the best modes of preparing it. 
In Virginia they used generally to cook it into a mushy 
‘paste that was anything but appetizing. The following 
recipe may be depended upon for cooking the rice so 
that each grain shall be distinct, white, and tender: Wash 
it clean; then put two cups of it into two and a half cups 
of cold water; add a teaspoonful of salt; cover the pan 
close, and set it on a brisk fire; let it boil ten minutes; 
then pour off most of the water, and let it remain a quarter 
of an hour to soak and dry near the fire, but not over it. 


A CoLoreD Cook In GEoraiA TELLS HOW TO Dress RIcE. 


“Wash well; much wash in cold water—the rice flour 
make him stick; water boil—all ready—very fast. Throw 
him in—rice can’t burn, water shake him too much. Boil 
quarter of an hour or little more; rub one rice in thumb 


VIRGINIA. COOKERY-BOOK. . 1487 





and finger ; if all rub away, him quite done. Put rice in 
colander, hot water run away; pour cup of cold water on 
him. Put back rice in saucepan; keep him covered near 
the fire, then rice all ready. Hat him up.” 

This being interpreted means that rice must be well 
picked and washed through several waters, and put on to 
boil in plenty—that is to say, two quarts—of waters to 
one pint of rice. After boiling for fifteen minutes, if you 
pour the contents of the saucepan into a colander the 
water will pour off looking very much like starch. Now 
give the rice a bath of cold water, and return to the 
saucepan with just what adheres, and, setting the rice on 
the back of the stove, let it steam itself dry there. It is 
well to stir it up with a fork once or twice while it is 
thus waiting, to prevent its sticking to the sides of the 
pan. Moreover, when rice is served never let the butter 
be seen in little pools on top. If hot meats with gravy 
are to be eaten at the same time, better have no butter at 
all; but if butter you must have, let it be mixed through 
and through the whole dish as equally as may be. Salt 
to be added at table. 


BakEpD RIckg. 


Boil half a pint of rice by either of the recipes given 
above, put it in a quart baking-dish, with a dessert-spoon- 
ful of butter, a pint of milk, and a beaten egg, with a 
teaspoonful of salt. Bake for half an hour, and you have 
an excellent winter vegetable. Some persons fry rice, 
but, to our mind, it is too delicate in flavor to bear this 
mode of cooking. 


To Fry SALsiry. 


Scrape the roots well; boil and mash them up fine; 
make a batter of two table-spoonfuls of flour and an egg; 


138 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


make the salsify up into little cakes, dip them in the bat- 
ter, and fry nicely, seasoning previously with pepper and 
salt. 

To Stew SALsiry. 

Boil your salsify, the evening before you wish it for 
dinner, in water to which a spoonful of vinegar has been 
added; after boiling till half done cut across into small 
pieces, and returning to the kettle let them simmer until 
they are soft; take them off, and leave them in the wa- 
ter, covered up in a china bowl or dish, until you use them. 
Put a lump of butter in a saucepan, and when it is nearly 
dissolved flour it well; throw in the yolk of an egg, or, 
omitting the egg, a gill of sweet cream; stir it well on 
the fire. Just before you pour this sauce on the salsify 
add pepper, salt, and (for those who like it) a little 
vinegar. | 

To Baxe SALsIFY. 

Boil until the skin comes off easily; slice them; put 
them into a vegetable-dish—a layer of salsify, a layer of 
bread-crumbs, a little sprinkling of salt and pepper, with 
a covering of butter, in slices as thin as you can cut it; 
repeat until full, having bread-crumbs as the last layer; 
then pour on as much milk as the dish will hold and bake 
it brown. Allow half an hour or three-quarters for the 
baking. 

To Stew Sprnacu. 

After picking the leaves from the stalks they must be 
well washed in several waters, and then boiled in a coy- 
ered vessel with just what adheres to them. After the 
spinach has boiled sufficiently chop it up fine. Mean- 
while put a lump of butter, with two spoonfuls of cream, 
and a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, into a saucepan, and 
let them stew together five minutes, stirring constantly; 
then put in the spinach. . 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 139 





Or, 

Wash and pick the spinach clean; drain, and throw it 
into boiling water; a few minutes will boil it sufficiently.. 
Press out all the water; put it in a saucepan, with a piece 
of butter, pepper, and salt; chop it continually with a 
spoon until it is quite dry. Serve up quickly, so as to 
be really hot. Poached or sliced hard-boiled eggs add 
greatly to this wholesome dish, which is particularly rel- 
ishing in the early spring. 


To Brow TomATogs. 


Cut in slices and broil on a gridiron, with pepper, salt, 
and a little butter. 


To Bake ToMmATOoEs. 


Peel nicely, and place in a deep baking-dish, with layers 
of grated bread, whole tomatoes, butter, pepper, and salt, 
with a heaping table-spoonful of brown sugar. Bake ell. 


To Srew ToMATOEs. 


Peel, mash, and stew until well done, with butter, pep- 
per, salt, and sugar, and the addition of bread- crumbs. 
To be good they must be thoroughly cooked. 


Forcep ToMATOES. 


_ Two ounces of mushrooms minced small, a bunch of 
parsley, a slice of lean ham chopped fine, with a few sa- 
vory herbs and a little Cayenne pepper and salt; put all 
the ingredients in a saucepan, with a lump of butter; stir 
all together till quite tender, then set away to cool. Have 
ready some bread-crumbs and the yolks of two eggs well 
beaten. Choose large tomatoes (as near the same size as 
possible), cut a slice from the stalk end of each, and take 
out carefully the seeds and juice, filling their places with 


140 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


the mixture; strew with bread and some melted butter, 
and bake in an oven till they have a rich color. These 
-forced tomatoes go admirably with a baked calf’s head or 
cold veal. | 
TURNIPS 

Are especially the complement for hot corned-beef. They 
should be peeled, sliced, and boiled or steamed until soft 
enough to be mashed with ease. Add a little milk, but- 
ter, and salt for seasoning, and be sure to let them go to 
table hot. If they should not be well flavored add a bit 
of sugar. Where it is liked they may be boiled in a lit- 
tle of the liquor.taken from the beef, and sent to table 
upon the same meat-dish with the joint. 


TURNIP-TOPS. 


Put In cold water an hour before they are dressed. 
The more water they are boiled in the better they will 
look. If boiled in little water they will be bitter. When 
the water boils put in a small handful of salt and then 
the tops. If fresh and young they will be done in about 
twenty minutes. Drain on the back of a sieve, and serve 
in a covered vegetable-dish, garnished with poached eggs. 
They are oftener boiled with jowl. 


BakED TURNIPS. 


Pare and slice turnips; boil them in salt-water until 
tender, then drain the water from them; put them in a 
baking-dish suitable to send to the table; meanwhile 
make a white sauce by stirring together over the fire two 
ounces of butter and flour until it bubbles ; then gradually 
stir in half a pint of boiling water; season with salt and 
pepper; pour the sauce over the turnips; dust them over 
quickly with bread-crumbs, and brown them in a quick 
oven. 


ae ad 


VIRGINIA COOLER Y-BOOK. 141 


Corn AND TOMATOES. 


These vegetables are so generally liked together that 
an enterprising house-keeper projected the plan of mix- 
ing them, half and half, after they had been stewed sepa- 
rately, with the usual seasoning of butter, sugar, pepper, 
and salt, putting them in a baking-dish and serving hot. 
It proved to be a very nice dish, if the rapidity of its 
disappearance be the criterion for judgment. 


ToMATOES wWiTH EaGs. 
(Mrs. Fannie Gwynn, Harrison.) 

Take a three-pound can of tomatoes, and put them on 
the stove in a stew-pan, with a seasoning of butter, pep- 
per, and salt, and let them cook for five minutes; then 
stir in a pint of bread-crumbs, and lastly add six eggs 
beaten up very light, stirring them in with the tomatoes, 
and beating up all together. Let them cook until the 
egos are set—take care not to let them scorch—and dish- 
ing up quickly, serve hot. 


142 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER XII. 
ENTREES. 


Croquettes, No. 1.—Croquettes, No. 2.—Rice Croquettes.—A Boned 
Hen.— Welsh Rarebit, No. 1.—Welsh Rarebit, No. 2.— English 
Rarebit.— Scotch Rarebit.— Piccadillo.— Ragéut of Oysters and 
Mushrooms.—A Ragoéut of Mushrooms.—Mushrooms with Cream. 
—Mushrooms with White Sauce.—Turkey 4 la Daube.—Chickens 
a la Daube.—Partridges 4 la Daube.—To Make Nice Meat Jelly. 
—Salmagundi.—A Pig in Jelly.—A Ragdut of Ham.—A Ragout 
of Sweetbreads.— A Ragodut of Truffles.—A Ragodut of Cauli- 
flower. 


Croquetres, No. 1. 
(A French Recipe.) 


One pound and a half of chicken, turkey, or veal al- 
ready cooked, two table-spoonfuls of minced ham, also 
one table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of 
one egg, half a pint of cream, salt, pepper, and a little 
nutmeg. Cut up the meat very fine, but do not chop it, 
or it will be pasty, nor must it be lumpy; cut up the ham 
in the same way, and put the seasoning of salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg into the meat first; boil the cream, beat in 
an egg; then gradually stir into it the cream, butter, and 
flour, stirring all the time, that it may not be lumpy; let 
it boil until it drops ropy from the spoon; taen pour out 
half from the saucepan and set it aside. Put all the pre- 
pared meat into the saucepan with the other half over the 
fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed, but not cooked. It 
mixes better in this way. If too stiff add that which has 
‘been set aside, a little at a time, until the mixture is of 
the right consistency. It must be as stiff as ean possibly 
be handled, but at the same time handled as little and 


“Vaal 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK, 143 


as lightly as possible. Then pour the mixture from the 
saucepan into a plate, and set it on ice to cool, unless the 
weather be cold. Have ready some fine bread or cracker 
crumbs; beat an egg, and shape the croquettes either in 
the form of an egg, pear, or cork, dipping them into the 
egg, and then, with a fork, rolling them in the bread- 
crumbs. Have some lard ready boiling over the fire; put 
in a few at a time, and just let them get heated through, 
and of a light-brown color. Be sure to have enough lard, 
and to have it boiling, for they must not be fried in it, 


but boiled. Garnish the dish with parsley. 


CroqueEtTEs, No. 2, 


Can be made of any cold meat, but turkey, veal, or 
chicken is preferred. Chop up about two pounds of 
meat, a medium-sized onion, one ounce of butter mixed 
with a table-spoonful of flour. Stir these seasonings to- 
gether for half a minute, then the chopped meat, and a 
little of both pepper and salt, with a pinch of nutmeg. 
Stir about two minutes; take from the fire, mix two 
yolks of eggs with it; put it back on the fire again, stir- 
ring all the while, but for a very short time ; spread the 
mixture on a flat dish, and set it away to cool. When 
perfectly dry mix it well. The best way to shape the 
croquettes is to take off a spoonful of the mixture and 
roll it into a ball, first covering with yolk of egg, then 
with a few bread-crumbs. If you prefer a cylindrical 
shape, roll until longer than thick ; with a knife smooth 
both ends, while with the left hand roll them gently until 
they are the proper shape, and then fry them in lard. 


Rick CRoQuUETTES. 


Boil half a pound of rice till quite soft, but dry; mix 
with it a table-spoonful of grated cheese, half a teaspoon- - 


144 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


ful of powdered mace and a teaspoonful of salt, with 
enough fresh butter to moisten it sufficiently to make 
into shape. Take a small table-spoonful and form it 
into a pear or egg shape, brush over with yolk of egg, 
and roll in cracker or bread crumbs. Fry in boiling 
lard. Very good croquettes may be made without the 
cheese, substituting the yolks of two or three eggs, with 
a little increase of butter; or, by putting a teaspoonful 
of jelly or jam in the centre, a nice dessert is furnished 
in rice croquettes. 
A Bonrp Hen. 

Take an old hen and boil it in water until the bones 
drop out, and chop fine; put it back on the fire in a little 
of the water in which it was boiled, with an ounce of gel- 
atine previously dissolved in a little cold water; season 
very highly in whatever way you like, and cook gently 
for a few minutes. Turn out into a shape or mould, and 
serve cold. 
We su Raresit, No.1. 

To make this dish well much depends upon the quality 
of the cheese, which should be rich and high-flavored. 
English dairy cheese, or the best American imitation of 
it, will give satisfaction. ‘Toast nicely as many slices of 
light bread as you have persons at table. If your cheese 
is old and dry, grate up as much as would cover the bread 
generously, or if new, slice thin an equal quantity. ‘Put 
it into a skillet with a little butter, a teaspoonful of made 
mustard, and a little red pepper, and stir the mixture 
over hot coals until the cheese has melted. Meanwhile 
chip off any hard crust or burnt particles from the toast ; 
dip each piece for a minute in a pan of hot water, butter 
it, and then keep it hot in a covered plate till the cheese 
is ready. Line the bottom and sides of the dish in which 
the rarebit is to be served with the buttered toast, pour 


VIELGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 145 


on top the melted cheese ; brown, if you like, by holding 
over it a hot shovel for a few seconds, and serve prompt- 
ly. A plate of dry toast is usually sent in at the same 
time, but separately. A nice supper-dish. 


WetsH Raresrr, No. 2. 


Cut a large slice of bread and an even slice of cheese. 
Let the bread be the shape of the cheese, but a little 
larger every way ; put a salamander in the fire or a large 
poker, or the bottom of a fire-shovel heated red-hot will 
do. While the iron is heating toast the bread carefully 
on both sides, without making it hard or burning it ; then 
toast the cheese on one side; lay the bread in a plate; 
lay the cheese upon it with the toasted side downward ; 
hold the red-hot iron over the other side to toast and 
brown it; put a little mustard on it, and send it up very 
hot. Two should go together. 


Encuisu RareEpit, 


Cut a handsome toast of bread without crust, and 
shave a good quantity of cheese very fine ; set a tin oven 
before the fire, and have in readiness a glass of red port- 
wine ; toast the bread carefully on both sides, then pour 
the wine upon it and turn it. When it has soaked up the 
wine spread the scraped cheese thickly upon it, lay it in 
the oven, and place it before a good fire; the cheese will 
cook quickly and finely. Send it up hot. 


Scorcu RAREBIT. 


Cut a slice of cheese very large and handsome ; cut a 
slice of bread without crust just the size of the cheese ; 
toast the bread on both sides, and butter it; then toast 
the cheese on both sides, and lay it evenly upon the toast 
and bread. Send it up hot, without mustard. This should 

7 


146 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


be made larger than the Welsh rarebit, and sent up sin- 
gly, in a plate. 
PICCADILLO. 

Take cold fresh meat of any kind except shote; cut it 
up as you would chicken for salad, adding a few slices of 
ham cut up in the same way; stew some ripe tomatoes; 
cut up one or two onions very fine; fry them in a good 
deal of nice lard; stir all together; season with salt, pep- 
per, and mustard. Break four eggs (or more, if a very © 
large dish is required) as though you wished to scramble 
them. After beating them up a little, mix with the meat 
and tomatoes; put all into an iron stewpan, add a table- 
spoonful of butter, and stir constantly over a brisk fire 
until the eggs are scrambled and the mixture sufficient- 
ly dry to be eaten. Be careful not to let it. burn while 
cooking. 


Racout or Oysters AND MusHrooms. 


Open oyster-shells enough to yield a pint; set these 
oysters over the fire in their own liquor, and keep them 
hot for some time without boiling; then take them out 
and set aside in a dish; peel and pick a dozen and a half 
of well-grown mushrooms, cut them into pieces (not too 
small, however), and set them on the fire in a stewpan. 
Let them do a little thus, and then put in a large lump of 
butter and two spoonfuls of water. When this is well 
done, and properly seasoned with pepper and celery-salt, 
heat the oysters for some time in it, but take care that 
they do not boil. Then dish it up, garnished with pieces 
of oysters. 

A Ragour or Musurooms. 

Choose for this purpose some fresh-gathered mush- 
rooms from the fields, such as are of a middling growth, 
take out the gills, peel them, and cut every one into four 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 147 


quarters ; put them into a stewpan with four spoonfuls of 
cream, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; stir all well 
together, and set them over the fire; toss them up, and 
when they are pretty well done add a table-spoonful of 
butter and a glass of sweet wine; add at the same time 
two cloves of garlic whole. When these have mixed and 
stewed a little together take out the garlic and skim off 
any grease that rises; then toast several slices of bread 
and fry them in butter, put them in, and let the whole do 
a little longer. When the toast is moistened somewhat 
pour all into a dish, and serve up hot. 


MusHROOMS WITH CREAM. 


Choose some half-grown mushrooms, clean them, cut 
them to pieces, and toss them up in a saucepan with some 
butter, seasoned with salt and some grated nutmeg, and 
with a bunch of sweet herbs; let them be shaken over 
a brisk fire, and when they are done enough pour in a 
gill of thick cream, which must be perfectly sweet, how- 
ever; let all be well heated together, and send them up 
in a warm soup-plate. | 


MusHrooms with WHITE SAUCE. 


Gather some small, mild mushrooms, such as are just 
beginning to open from the button being most suitable 
for this purpose. Pick them, clean them thoroughly in 
every way, and then throw them into a bowl of cold 
water that has a little salt init. Stir them about, pour 
off the water, pour more upon them, and then stir them 
about again. Pour this second water off through a sieve, 
and spread the mushrooms out to dry. Set on a stewpan 
holding a piece of butter the size of an egg and a bunch 
of sweet herbs. When the mushrooms are dried put 
them in, and let the whole have a few tosses together. 


.148 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


After this take out the bunch of herbs, dredge the mush- 
rooms with fiour as they lie in the pan, and then add a 
little gravy to moisten them; season with pepper and salt, 
and let them simmer a considerable time. 

Break four eggs and beat up the yolks; grate in a lit- 
tle nutmeg, and add a gill of cream; then stir all together 
into the ragdut, put some slices of toast into a dish, and 
pour the mushrooms over them hot. 


TURKEY A LA DAUBE. 


Bone a small hen turkey; put pepper and salt on the 
inside, and cover it with slices of boiled ham or tongue; 
fill it with well-seasoned force-meat; sew it up and boil 
it; cover it with jelly. 


CHICKENS A LA DAUBE. 


» Roast two half-grown chickens; cut off the 1h and 

wings; pull the breast from each side entire; take the 

skin from all the pieces; lay it in the dish; and cover it 

with jelly. 
PaRrTRIpGES A LA DAvBE. 

Truss six partridges neatly; cover them with thin slices 
of fat bacon taken from the top of a middling: this keeps 
them white, and gives a good flavor; they must be wrap- 
ped entirely in it; roast them, and when done take off 
the bacon ; let them get cold, and use jelly; get a deep 
dish, put in savory jelly about an inch and a half at the 
bottom ; when that is set and the partridges cold lay 
them on the jelly, with their breasts down; fill the dish 
with jelly up to their backs; take care that it is not 
warm enough to melt the other, and that the birds are 
not displaced. Just before it is to be served set it a mo- 
ment in hot water to loosen it; put the dish on the top, 
and turn it out carefully. : 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. . 149 


To Make Nicr Meat Jetty. 


Put eight or ten pounds of coarse, lean beef, or. the 
same quantity of the inferior parts of the fore-quarter of 
veal, into a pot with two gallons of water, a pound of 
lean salt pork, three large onions chopped, three carrots, 
a large handful of parsley, and any sweet herb that you 
choose, with pepper and salt ; boil it very gently till re- 
duced to two quarts; strain it through a sieve; next day 
take off the fat, turn out the jelly, and separate it from 
the dregs at the bottom; put it on the fire with half a 
pint of white-wine, a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, and 
the whites and shells of four eggs beaten up; when it 
boils clear on one side run it through the jelly-bag. 


SALMAGUNDI. 


Pick and wash three good Dutch lettuces, cut them as 
fine as threads, and lay them at the bottom of a dish; cut 
the flesh from the breasts of two roasted chickens. It must 
be in slices as long and broad as one’s finger, not thicker 

than a small coin. Spread these carefully over the let- 
' tuces in regular circles, leaving spaces between them; 
wash and bone half a dozen fine anchovies, cut each into 
eight pieces, and lay them regularly between the slices 
of chicken; then cut the legs of the chickens into small 
square pieces like dice; cut a good-sized lemon into 
square pieces in the same manner; boil four eggs hard, 
take out the yolks, mince them and mix with them some 
chopped parsley and four anchovies, minced very small; 
boil some onions as big as walnuts till they are very white 
and tender; then pile up the minced anchovy and egg 
in the middle of the dish like a sugar-loaf, lay the onions 
round it, and lay others thickly round the edge of the 
dish ; when all is thus done mix some oil and vinegar 


150 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


very well, beating it up with salt and pepper, and pour it 
carefully over the whole dish; then serve it up. It is 
soon ready for eating, and makes a pretty appearance. 
There is as much taste shown in fixing up a salmagundi 
as in any made dish whatever. 


A Pia in JELLY.* 


Set on a stewpan with a calf’s foot, split, and a quart 
of water; let this stew gently a considerable time, then 
put in a small pig cut into quarters; put in the feet, add 
three or four blades of mace, four cloves, a little grated 
lemon-peel, and some salt; let this boil for some time 
over a slow fire; then put in a pint of strong white-wine , 
and the juice of four lemons; let it boil two hours; then 
lay the pig in a dish, strain off the liquor, and set it by to 
cool; then take off the fat from the top and the settling 
from the bottom; let the pig be cold; then warm the 
jelly and pour it over the pig, and let it again stand to 
get cold. Serve it up asa cold dish. Garnish with fresh 
parsley and pieces of lemon cut small, with the peel upon 
them. 

A Raacout or Ham. 

Cut some thin slices from the hock end of a fine ham, 
beat these well with a rolling-pin, and lay them carefully 
in a stewpan, without any addition whatever; cover these 
up close, and set them over a gentle fire to stew. Ob- 
serve when they begin to stick to the pan, then dust in 
a little flour, move them gently over the fire, and pour in 
a little rich veal gravy, made purposely without any salt; 
put in two small bunches of sweet herbs and some pep- 


* In Virginia the term pig is never applied toa grown hog. A pig 
when roasted whole is preferred very young, so as not to weigh 
over twelve pounds. Shote is the meat of a half-grown hog ; pork, 
the meat of the full-grown animal when fit for curing. 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 151 


per, a blade of mace broken, and one clove whole. Let 
this be set on again over a gentle fire, and covered up; 
when it has stood about a quarter of an hour simmering 
take out the sweet herbs and skim off the fat, then thick- 
en it up, and pour it into a small dish. Send it up hot. 
This dish is not only useful as a dish for lunch or supper, 
but serves excellently as a garnish to any larger dish 
composed of bacon. 


A RaGcout oF SwEETBREADS. 


Choose a couple of fine veal sweetbreads, throw them 
into a pot of boiling water, and have ready a pan of the 
coldest water you can get. When the sweetbreads have 
been a few minutes in the boiling water throw them into 
the cold, and let them lie there a little; double a cloth 
three or four times and spread it out upon the dresser, 
take the sweetbreads out of the water, lay. them upon this 
cloth, and cover them with another; thus dry them per- 
fectly. Put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a 
pound of butter, toss them up, and add some pepper and 
salt, and a little bundle of sweet herbs; then cut to pieces 
some large, fresh mushrooms, and put into the saucepan ; 
then put in some fresh ones whole, and very small, set it 
over a fire, let it simmer longer, and then take out the 
bundle of herbs; put in some rich veal gravy, and set it 
on again; then, after it has been cooking for some time, 
skim off the fat, and thicken it up; serve it hot, without 
any garnish. ‘This, like the recipe preceding it, is used 
sometimes for a dish of itself, and sometimes for garnish 
of others. 

A Racévur or TRUFFLES. 

Cut some trufiles into very thin slices, and lay them 
over-night to soak in some strong veal gravy. In the 
morning heat. them up, throw in two cloves and a blade 


152 ; VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


of mace torn to pieces, and set them on to boil up; then 
take them off the fire. There must be only just as much 
of the veal gravy as will moisten them thoroughly ; let 
them stand now till near the time they are wanted; they 
will be perfectly soft, and fully and richly impregnated 
with the strength of the gravy; then pour in enough es- 
sence of a gammon of bacon to make the whole somewhat 
thin, set it on to stew again, and then thicken it up with 
a lump of butter rolled in flour. If this ragéut is served 
up as a separate dish garnish it with sliced lemon. When 
using it as a sauce for some other elegant dish see that 
the main dish has something congruous in its nature, for 
there is nothing so wrong as to join things of unlike es 
that only spoil one another. 


A eae: OF CAULIFLOWER. 


One cauliflower is sufficient for a dish, but let it be a 
very fine one, and lay it in cold spring-water a few min- 
utes before proceeding to pick it in pieces. Melt a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with a table-spoon- 
ful of water. When it is melted throw in the cauliflower 
thus cut into small pieces; shake this about until the cauli- 
flower is tender, then dust in a little flour, and toss about 
the pan; season it with pepper and salt, and when it is 
thus far done heat half a pint of rich gravy, and when it 
is hot pour it in. Stir all about, and then when the whole 
is well mixed serve up hot. 





VIRGINIA CUOKERY-BOOK. 153 


CHAPTER XIII. 
SALADS AND VEGETABLES COLD. 


Chicken Salad.— Lobster Salad.— Cold Slaw, No. 1.—Cold Slaw, 
No. 2.—Hot Slaw.— Sauce for Salmon or Lobster.—To Dress 
Lettuce without Oil.— Tomatoes Raw.—Cucumbers Raw.—Dress- 
ing for Lettuce.—Dressing for Lettuce or other Salad.—Another 
Salad Dressing.—Yet another Salad Dressing.—A Winter Salad. 
—Mayonnaise Salad Dressing.—Cabbage Salad.—Oyster Salad. 


CHICKEN SALAD. 


In giving recipes for salads it is next to impossible to 
give precise quantities, especially when the great diver- 
sity of tastes is considered. We can only approximate 
precision for what we suppose to be the taste of a major- 
ity of the persons into whose hands this book will be 
likely to fall. On the Continent of Europe, for instance, 
olive oil and garlic are favorite ingredients in salads, 
while, more and more in our country, olive oil, or indeed 
much fatty matter of any kind, is repugnant to popular 
taste. While physicians commend so highly as they do 
some admixture of fat or oil with food (for those with 
any tendency to pulmonary disease especially), it would 
seem the duty of the faithful house-keeper to seek to 
introduce it into her recipes in such a moderate and deli- 
cate fashion as should help the squeamish to overcome 
their prejudice against “ grease,” and at the same time 
satisfy in some measure those of opposite taste. “Jack 
Sprat and his wife” are still characters typical of the 
whole race, and skilful will she be who can so- compound 
her salads as to make both parties agree that they are 

We 


154 VIRGINIA VOOKERY-BOOK. 


good. And yet this is the task that the salad-maker has 
before her, and, strange to say, she often succeeds in it. 
Cream helps her admirably over much debatable ground, 
her own ingenuity and good-sense over the rest. In the 
recipes here given we only seek humbly to strike a happy 
medium, leaving it for each individual to make special 
alterations as shall fit them to idiosyncrasies that she 
knows to exist in the taste of those for whom she caters. 

Two fowls will provide a dish of salad large enough 
for a family of from eight to twelve. If you cook them 
specially with the view of making salad, boil them very 
done, the water in which they are boiled, with the meat 
rejected from the salad, supplying an excellent tureen full 
of soup; but if you have cold roasted chickens left over 
from a dinner, they will answer very well. Joint your 
fowls, pull off every particle of skin, gristle, and fat, 
chopping up the lean parts of the flesh into pieces about 
the size of backgammon dice ; set it aside in a large, flat 
meat-dish until ready to mix it; have ready for this quan- 
tity the hard-boiled yolks of nine eggs, half a pint of 
olive oil that is perfectly sweet, or, where it is not liked, 
half a pint of rich cream, with a table-spoonful of creamed 
butter, a gill of vinegar, a gill of made mustard, a small 
teaspoonful of red pepper, and a large one of salt ; chop 
up into pieces the same size as your chicken as much cel- 
ery, or celery and lettuce mixed, as will make a quantity 
equal in bulk to the fowl. In the depth of winter, if 
neither celery nor lettuce are procurable, chop up a 
bleached head of cabbage, and use a teaspoonful of bruised 
celery-seed as a substitute for the usual vegetables re- 
quired. Do not mix your salad long before it is needed, 
if you can help it. Add the vegetables to the fowl, pour 
over the salad dressing, and stir thoroughly with a wooden 
fork and spoon; garnish with rings of white of egg and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 155 





green celery-leaves. Serve either in a regular china salad- 
dish or glass bowl. 


LopsTER SALAD. 


Open a can of lobsters, skim off all the oil on the sur- 
face, and chop the meat up on a flat dish. Prepare in the 
same way six heads of celery; mix a teaspoonful of mus- 
tard into a smooth paste with a little water; add a table- 
spoonful of butter creamed, a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
Cayenne pepper, a gill of vinegar, and the mashed yolks 
of three eggs; garnish with the green tops of celery and 
a hard-boiled egg cut into thin rings. 


Cotp Straw, No. 1. 


Four eggs broken raw and beaten very light; then stir 
in one teaspoonful and a half of mustard, one of bruised 
celery-seed, half a one of turmeric, and half'a cup of 
sugar. Pour one pint of boiling vinegar on the eggs, and 
stir very rapidly ; then return it to the fire and boil, stir- 
ring all the while, until it thickens to the consistency of 
custard. Meanwhile, have a large head of cabbage sliced 
up as fine as possible, and sprinkled well with pepper and 
salt. : 

The above quantity of dressing is sufficient for two 
dishes—made on Saturday, for instance, to last over Sun- 
day. The second day freshen the appearance of the dish 
by boiling an egg hard, cutting it in thin slices, and gar- 
nishing with it. 

Cotp Straw, No, 2. 

Select the finest heads of bleached cabbage—that is to 
say, those that are firmest and most compact of the more 
delicate varieties; cut up enough into shreds to fill a 
large vegetable-dish or salad-bowl—the number of heads 
to be regulated by the size of the cabbage and the quan- 


156 VIRGINIA COOKEKY-BOUK. 


tity required; shave very fine, and after that chop up— 
the more thoroughly the better. Boil four eggs until 
hard; mix the yolks smoothly with a little cold water, 
and gradually add to them a cup of sweet cream, two 
_ table-spoonfuls of mixed mustard, one heaping table- 
spoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 
pound of butter, and a little pepper, if you choose. Place 
all these ingredients, mixed together in a small stewpan, — 
over the fire; put the cabbage in the dish in which it is 
to be served; let the sauce come to a boil; pour it hot 
over the cabbage, and, lastly, add half a teacupful of 
good vinegar. 

N.B.—This recipe is famed for its excellence, but for 
most families it would be an extravagance to make more 
than half the quantity recommended here. 


Hot Sitaw 


With a sharp knife cut up nicely a firm head of cab- 
bage ; sprinkle it with as much pepper and salt as you 
think necessary —half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a 
whole one of salt, would be sufficient for the average 
taste; beat up the yolk of one egg; add a lump of butter 
the size of a walnut, a gill of cream, the same quantity 
of vinegar, a table-spoonful of sugar, an even teaspoonful 
of mustard, and a pinch of bruised celery-seed. Heat 
these condiments mixed together in a tin cup; put the 
slaw into a skillet, and pour the dressing upon it boiling 
hot; stir it till well mixed and the cabbage slightly cod- 
dled; then send it to table hot, and it is one of the most 
popular of dishes. 


SAUCE FOR SALMON OR LOBSTER. 


Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs in two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, one of made mustard, half a teacup- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 157 


ful of sweet-oil, half a teacupful of walnut or mushroom 
catsup, a teaspoonful of salt, and a sprinkling of Cay- 
enne pepper. All around the edges of a flat dish place 
fine lettuce-leaves; heap up the salad in the centre, and 
garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs. 


To Dress LETTUCE wiITHOUT OIL. 


Mash smooth a hard-boiled egg, with an even teaspoon- 
ful of salt and half a teaspoonful of mustard, first mixed 
with a little cold water; then add a dessert-spoonful of 
powdered sugar, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a gill 
of cream, the richer the better; put in a little Cayenne 
pepper, or red and black pepper both, if you like high 
seasoning. 

When you have no cream, sweet milk thickened with a 
little corn-starch makes a respectable substitute. It is 
more economical to serve sauce separately in a boat than 
to pour it over the lettuce. One making may serve for 
two days. 

TomatTors Raw. 

Select those that are evenly ripe and smooth. Scald 
immediately after breakfast, and the skins can be easily 
removed, Never was there a greater mistake than to 
suppose that peeling makes no difference; on the contra- 
ry, it makes ail the difference. After peeling set away in 
the refrigerator ; choose a dish to correspond with that 
used for cucumbers, and do not season until just before 
they are to be served, else they will become watery. 
When arranging the table for dinner slice your tomatoes, 
and to half a dozen large ones add a dessert-spoonful of 
salt, a table-spoonful of brown sugar, and three table- 
spoonfuls of good vinegar. With a fork diffuse the sea- 
soning through the whole dish, and sprinkle it well with 
black pepper. Thus prepared, raw tomatoes are common- 


158 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


ly so much relished that it is hard to make the supply ad- 
equate to the demand. 

As a breakfast dish they are also increasingly popu- 
lar. In some Virginia families they are seen every day 
throughout the summer and fall, without appearing to 
pall upon the taste in the least. Their wholesomeness is 
undisputed. A dressing, such as is prescribed for lettuce, 
may be applied to raw tomatoes also, and will be found 
grateful to many palates. One great art of the good 
house-keeper is to know how deftly to vary her bill of 
fare so as to bring new things out of the old. 


CucuMBERS Raw. 


Nothing is more refreshing in early summer than cold 
cucumbers, and the impression that they are unwhole- 
some is false, provided that a few cautions are observed. 
They should be freshly gathered, not stale, and if a little 
of the stem is left attached to the melon it will not wilt 
so soon. Then the peeling should be removed directly 
after breakfast from those wanted for dinner; they should 
be sliced thin, dropped into plain cold water, and left till 
half an hour before dishing. A slimy, bitter something 
is thus extracted that removes the unhealthy element 
from the cucumber. Pour off the water in which the 
cucumbers have been soaking, place them in a glass or 
shallow china dish, cover with vinegar weakened with 
a little ice-water, sprinkle with salt and pepper, also 
a suspicion of sugar, if you like, and your task is 
done. 

Many persons, however, greatly relish the addition of 
onion; therefore ascertain the taste of the persons for 
whom your dish is destined. If they like onions, slice 
very thin one of the white, silver-skinned variety,-after 
washing and peeling it. Intersperse the onion with cu- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 159 





cumber, and treat otherwise as directed above. Three 
medium-sized cucumbers furnish a dish. 


DreEssinc FoR LETTUCE. 


Boil two eggs hard; mash the yolks, with a very little 
cold water ; put one teaspoonful of sugar, one of mustard, 
not quite one of salt, and mix these well with the yolks; 
add slowly three table-spoonfuls of olive oil until it is 
smooth, and one table-spoonful of vinegar; if too thick 
add a table-spoonful of water. 


DREssING FOR LETTUCE OR OTHER SALAD. 


Take the yolk of a raw egg, mix it with three mustard- 
spoonfuls of mustard, and two salt-spoonfuls of salt; then 
add oil very gradually, commencing drop by drop. If 
it should not mix readily put in a very little vinegar. 
When perfectly mixed it will be thick. About three- 
quarters of a cruet of oil is sufficient for this quantity. 
After this is well mixed pour in vinegar to your taste ; 
also a little sugar, to meet the requirements of modern 
ideas. 

ANOTHER SALAD DReEssING. 

Pound very smoothly the yolks of two eggs (they must 
have been boiled for fifteen minutes), with one teaspoon- 
ful of made mustard, the same of sugar, and the same of 
salt. Mix very gradually with these half a teacup of 
olive oil and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. More salt 
and vinegar may be added, if you like, and a few drops 
of the essence of Chili or Cayenne pepper will improve 
the flavor. 

YET ANOTHER SaLaD DRESSING. 


Rub with a flexible knife-blade the yolks of two eggs, 
boiled hard and become cold, in a salad-bowl, with fresh 
mustard and a little salt, four table-spoonfuls of oil to 


4 


160 VIRGINIA © 0 OKER i ‘BO OK, 





one and a half of tarragon, mixing it with cream. Cut 
up the white hearts of six heads of lettuce well bleached, 
some tarragon, chervil, a few young onions, and some bur- 
net, stirring them well together. The sauce should be kept 
in a separate bowl, and not mixed with the salad until the 
moment before it is eaten, or it may lose its crispness and 
freshness. 
A WINTER SALAD. 

Two or three well-boiled potatoes, mashed dincoaniet 
one teaspoonful of mustard, two of salt, one of essence 
of anchovy, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, one table- 
spoonful of vinegar, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. 
Stir up thoroughly just before dinner. 


Mayonnaise SALAD DRESSING. 


Two yolks of eggs, two table- -spoonfuls of olive oil, one 
table-spoonful of cream, half a teaspoonful of made mus- 
tard. Mix thus: hard-boil the eggs, and then thoroughly 
incorporate the mustard ; work in the olive oil carefully, 
and then add the cream ; finally, season to your taste with 
vinegar, pepper, and salt. See that the mustard, oil, and 
cream be of first-rate quality. 


CABBAGE SALAD. 


Shave a firm head of bleached cabbage into small strips; 
take the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, one cupful of 
cider-vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, three ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of cream, which must be very rich, one tea- 
spoonful of mustard, mixed in a little boiling water, salt 
and pepper to suit your own taste. Mix together all 
these ingredients save the eggs, and let them come to a 
boil, then stir in the eggs rapidly; then, lastly, add the 
cabbage to the mixture; stir it up well. This quantity 
will suffice for two days, if your family is not unusually 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 161 


_ _ es 





large. It keeps perfectly well; but the appearance of 
the dish is improved, when brought to the table for the 
second time, by having a hard-boiled egg sliced up and 
laid over the top for a garnish. 


OysTER SALAD. 


Directions for dressing one gallon of oysters: Heat the 


oysters until they curl or plump; mix together the well- 


beaten yolks of twelve raw eggs, half a cup of made 
mustard, one teacup of white sugar, one teacup of butter. 


These ingredients must be made hot, and be ready to 


pour over the oysters as soon as these are ladled out of 
the kettle. As shortly before the time of serving supper 
as is practicable chop up as much as will fill a quart 
measure of bleached celery; add it to the dressed oysters, 


mixing lightly with a wooden fork and spoon, and plac- 


ing it in a salad-bowl, ready for serving. 


162 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XVI. 
PIES AND PUDDINGS. 


Puff Paste.—Boiled Pastry. —Pastry (Another Way).—Railway Pud- 
ding.—Victoria Pudding.—Sago Pudding.—-Ground-rice Pud- 
ding.—Confederate Pudding.—Plum Pudding, No. 1.—Plum Pud- 
ding, No. 2.—Plum Pudding the Second Day.—Baked Plum Pud- 
ding.—Plum Pudding (Mrs. Cabell).—Cake Pudding.—Sponge- 
cake Pudding, No. 1.—Sponge-cake Pudding, No. 2.—Plain Mo- 
lasses Pudding.—Tyler Pudding.—Sweetmeat Pudding.—Bread 
Pudding.— Citron Pudding.— Orange Pudding.— Custard Pud- 
ding.—Cocoa-nut Pudding.—Cream Pudding.—Green-corn Pud- 
ding.—Rice Pudding.—To make Rice Pudding.—Arrow-root Pud- 
ding.—Apple Pudding, No. 1.—Apple Pudding, No. 2.—Norfolk 
Pudding Puff.—Jelly Pudding.—Rice Pudding without Eggs.— 
Fruit Pudding.—Molasses Pudding.—Apple Pies without Apples. 
—Delicate Apple Pudding.—Apple Charlotte.—Friar’s Omelet.— 
Blackberry Pudding.—Dressing for Sponge-cake Roll.—Orange 
Custard Pie.—Sponge-cake Roll.—Delmonico Pudding.—French 
Sauce for Puddings.—Hard Sauce. 


Purr Paste. 


One quart of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound 
of lard, half a teaspoonful of salt. Fine, flaky pastry is 
much more easily made in cold than in warm weather. 
To produce the proper temperature in summer good 
house-keepers use a marble slab instead of the common 
bread-board; moreover, mix the dough up with ice-water, 
and if by any chance there must be delay in carrying it 
to the oven, place it on ice until ready for the baking. 
Take half the flour, a small piece each of the butter and 
lard, the salt, and enough cold water to make it into a 
dough just as soft as will admit of rolling. Handle light- 
ly. Flour your board and rolling- pin well, to prevent 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 163 


sticking, also your hands; then proceed to roll out the 
dough into a sheet half an inch thick; by means of a 
knife dot its surface over with bits of lard and butter, 
weighed out, at distances of not more than an inch apart; 
then sprinkle a layer of flour over, and fold the dough 
over until an entirely new surface is presented; roll out 
until smooth and thin, as before; add the shortening and 
flour exactly as before, and go on in the same way until 
all the flour, butter, and lard have been mixed in. The of- 
tener pastry is rolled out, with a gentle yet firm touch, the 
lighter it will be. For elegant pastry five times rolling 
is the least one should be satisfied with—seven is not too 
often. Pastry should not be baked brown, but kept fair 
and white. For tartlets to be filled with preserves the 
centres should be either stuck, to prevent rising—as one 
does biscuits—or a piece of bread-crust laid firmly down 
upon them. Do not roll the pastry too thin, or its light- 
ness cannot be shown. 

The edges of puddings should be twice as thick as the 
paste that lines the bottom of the plates. A strip can 
be laid over and joined by just wetting the surfaces to 
be united. 

For family use very nice pastry is made in the same 
way, only allowing three-quarters of a pound of shorten- 
ing to a quart of flour, and rolling out four times, 

The taste of strong butter may be better disguised 
in pastry than any other article with which it can be 
used. 

For chicken and other meat-pies as little as half a 
pound of shortening to one quart of flour will actually 
better please families who do not care “‘to fare sumptu- 
ously every day” than when made more expensively. In 
this case leaven half the flour with Horsford or Royal 
Baking Powder. 


164 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Bo1mtep Pastry. 


The last proportions mentioned—namely, half a pound 
of shortening to a quart of flour—are the most suitable 
for dumplings or rolls. For this purpose roll the pastry 
into a very thin sheet. ‘ | . 

To our own taste the best rolls have been made by the 
simple admixture of flour, salt, a tiny pinch of soda, and 
boiling water, made into a paste rapidly, one hour before 
dinner-time, and served as any other boiled dumpling—a. 
layer of some fruit having been rolled up with it. The 
pastry was light, tender, and had the advantage of being 
digestible. 

Pastry (Another Way). 

To a pound and three-quarters of flour take a pound 
and a quarter of butter, or butter and lard mixed; work 
the flour and butter together as lightly as possible; break 
two eggs into a pint of cold water, with half a teaspoon- 
ful of cream of tartar; pour into the middle of the flour 
and with the hand stir into a soft dough. When ready 
to use it roll out on a board with light rolling-pin, add- 
ing, of course, sufficient flour to roll with. In warm 
weather the butter must be put on ice beforehand. — 


RaILway Puppine. 


Beat separately the whites and yolks of six eggs; add 
to the eggs three-quarters of a pound of sugar; cream 
very lightly six ounces of butter, and stir in from three- 
quarters of a pound of flour as much as you can conven- © 
iently; then dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
spoonful of milk, and add it to the eggs, at the same time 
sifting in two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar; mix rap- 
idly now all the ingredients, creaming in the rest of the 
flour; flavor with a little of any extract you may prefer; 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 165 


pour out the ater sie over a square tin, that has been 
previously covered with a greased paper; bake, and when 
done turn out upon a dish, and spread with jelly, rolling 
up very quickly into the form of a bolster dumpling. 
Kat with French sauce. 


VicToRIA PUDDING. 


Take one quart of stewed apples or green gooseberries ; 
sweeten them well, and season with the juice and grated 
rind of a lemon when cold; beat well the yolks of five 
eggs and the whites of two, and, when light, add them 
to the fruit; then take the remaining three whites and 
fine sugar enough (six ounces) to make stiff icing, flavored 
with a few drops of lemon-juice; after buttering a small 
baking-dish put in the fruit and pour the icing evenly 
over the top; put it in the oven and bake ten minutes. 
It should be of a pale brown when done. | 


Saco Pupprina. 


Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four table- 
spoonfuls of sago well washed and picked; add a little 
salt, shredded lemon-peel, cinnamon, and nutmeg; sweeten 
with five ounces of moist sugar, add four eggs well beaten; 
put a paste around the dish or pie-plates, and bake; sprin- 
kle with granulated sugar when the puddings are drawn 
from the oven. 

GROUND-RICE PUDDING. 

Boil a large table-spoonful of ground rice in a pint of. 
new milk, after first mixing it into a smooth paste with 
a little cold water or milk; add, for flavoring, half a tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon and a little thinly-pared lemon-rind ; 
when cold add a quarter of a pound of sugar creamed up 
with the same quantity of butter, and two well-beaten 
egos, Bake, with a crust around, in pie-plates. 


166. VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CONFEDERATE PUDDING. 


Two cups of suet chopped very fine, two cups of fruit 
(either raisins, dried apples, cherries, or peaches), two 
cups of sorghum molasses, two cups of milk, four cups 
of flour, a light teaspoonful of soda. Boil for three hours. 


PLOUP AG tahivatehe ouyues 4-cups..| Suet ...0c..seeen Pavers 2 cups. 
Dried: fruit. +5400 2 ae Sorghum molasses...... gu $8 
Die ce Bop ap ieatente axes 2) $A Boda: 5. sags cue 1 teaspoonful. 


Prum Puppine, No. 1. 


Ordinary plum pudding is heavy and indigestible, but 
made by the following recipe it has been known to agree 
with dyspeptics who, as a general thing, did not indulge 
in dessert. All of the ingredients should be gotten to- 
gether the day before the pudding is to be cooked, to pre- 
vent delay and confusion. Four hours should suffice for 
the making and boiling. We give the quantity sufficient 
for a large dinner-party, because whatever is left may be 
set away and enjoyed even more on the second than the 
first day. 

Prepare raisins enough, of good quality, to fill a quart 
measure after the stems and seeds are removed; wash 
and dry a pint of-dried currants; cut up a pint of citron 
into small bits; peel, core, and also chop into small bits 
a pint of apples (pippins are best) and a light quart of 
beef suet, that must be perfectly fresh; crumble up a full 
quart of nice stale light bread, and mix all the above- 
named articles together upon a dish, grating into them 
half a nutmeg, and sprinkling over a teaspoonful of salt. 
Now break eight eggs into a large tray or bowl, and beat 
them till very light; when you have sifted a quart of 
flour take from it enough to flour well the fruit, that it 
may not fall to the bottom, just as is done in making fruit- 


VIRGINIA COOK#LRY-BOOK. 167 





cake. Now add to the eggs the fruit, suet, and bread- 
crumbs, stirring in just enough flour to make the whole 
stick together. This ought not to take more than the 
quart provided. Have ready a stout cotton cloth or bag, 
scald it in boiling water, and dust flour over the inside 
until a thin coating is formed ; put the pudding in, and 
tie up tightly, after leaving ample room for it to swell; 
put it in a pot of boiling water to boil steadily for three 
hours. The dangers to be avoided are letting the pud- 
ding stick to the bottom of the pot, which may be pre- 
vented by reversing a plate and laying it beneath; and, 
worse still, letting the string or bag give way, so that wa- 
ter is admitted. See that both bag and string are strong. 

French sauce, or cold creamed sauce, must be served 
with this pudding. Recipes for them are to be found 
under the proper heading. 

Following an English custom as old as the days of King 
Arthur, it has been always usual in Virginia, at Christmas, 
to send in the plum pudding to table aglow in alcoholic 
flames. This is done by pouring over it half a gill of pure 
alcohol or brandy, and putting a lighted match to it just 
as the waiter bears it into the dining-room. | 


Bread-crumbs..... Pea MINO Gs) WAAISINS sec sees ese a bs eas 1 qt. 
0 eae 1 light qt. CTEM Sas le SEES 1 pt. 
DT a teen oid sx ais « ca OMS so Se i vlan hone ate 1s 
Peder d dsc esss & Dt A PDOs). ais «+ 0 e arth than i betecsin die 
BORG aes suns ss + pt. Wine OF DrROGY.... ..s 20 1 gill. 
PRMUINE Ss ss. oe wt Dab tae Peres «as 1 teaspoonful. 


Prum Pouppine, No. 2. 


For persons who do not like a mixture of fruits this 
recipe is preferred: Two pounds of raisins, one pound of 
butter, half a pound of bread-crumbs, one pound of flour, 
a cup of milk, a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of 
sugar, six eggs. Make and mix exactly as directed in 


168 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


the first recipe given. The lightness of the pudding is 
increased by using flour lightened with Horsford Powder 
or Royal Baking Powder, as may be convenient. ) 


Pium Puppine THE SEeconp Day, — 


Cut as much cold plum pudding into slices half an inch 
thick as is needed for the number of persons to be dined, 
and lay them in a skillet carefully, so that they be broken 
as little as possible ; prepare a sauce of half a pound of 
brown sugar, the yolk of one egg, quarter of a pound of 
butter creamed, and a gill of sherry wine, grating in lastly 
a little nutmeg. Thoroughly incorporate these ingredients 
while yet cold; then heat gradually, so as not to let the 
butter oil; then pour the sauce hot over the pudding about 
the time that the meat dinner is dished; set the skillet 
on the back part of the stove, where it may simmer gently 
until called for. Serve up hot, and it is better than upon 
the first day. , ) 4 
BaKkeD Pivm PuppiNe. 

Crumble up a quart loaf of stale bread; scald and sim- 
mer it in sweet milk; add a large spoonful of butter; 
then put it in a deep dish to cool; beat up five eggs, and 
stir into them a teacupful of nice brown sugar; then stir 
in a pound of seeded raisins; have ready a greased pud- 
ding-mould or plain baking-dish ; put in the batter and 
bake. To be eaten with sauce. ee 


Pium Puppine. 
(Mrs. Margaret Cabell.) 


One pound and a half of fine layer raisins, stoned and 
cut up; one pound of golden brown sugar, one pound of 
grated. bread-crumbs, a quarter of a pound of butter, half 
a cup of cream, and ten eggs. Beat the yolks very light, 
and.mix in the sugar; sprinkle the raisins with a quarter 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 169 


of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and flour the 
raisins well by sifting; rub the butter and cream to- 
gether, adding them to the eggs and sugar; then beat in 
the crumbs, and add the whites; beat, and last of all stir 
in the raisins, and pour the batter into a cloth dipped in 
hot water and covered with flour. Leave room in tying 
for the swelling of the pudding. 

Apple or peach pudding may be made by the above 
recipe, substituting chopped apples or peaches for raisins. 


CakE PuppDING. 


Five eggs, five cups of flour, three cups of sugar (white 
or fair brown), one cup of butter, one cup of sour cream, 
one teaspoonful of soda. Baked in a quick but steady 
oven. 


SPONGE-cAKE Puppine, No. 1 (Nice for Summer). 


Beat up three eggs very light, leaving out the whites 
of two; add to them three table-spoonfuls of fine sifted 
flour or corn-starch, and two table-spoonfuls of powdered 
white sugar; add to them gradually a pint and a half of 
new milk ; set it over a slow fire, stirring:-it all the while, 
to prevent burning; cut into small squares several slices 
of sponge-cake, and lay them in the bottom of a glass 
bowl; soak them in wine, and pour the custard over 
hot. Set it away until perfectly cold, and either sprinkle 
pounded cinnamon or nutmeg over the top, or decorate 
with whipped syllabub. This dish makes a good Sunday 
dessert. 

SPONGE-CAKE Pupprine, No. 2. 

Melt some butter and grease the mould very well over 
inside with a feather or brush; have some pounded sugar 
sifted over it; shake the mould about till the parts are 
equally covered with the sugar and look white; stone 

8 


170 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


some raisins and currants, and put them according to 
fancy in the curvings of the mould; take some sponge- 
cake (stale will do), and, cutting it up small, lightly fill 
the mould with it, mixing lightly through it currants and 
raisins rubbed in flour, to prevent their falling. Beat the 
whites and yolks of four eggs separately, beating with 
the yolks first four heaping table-spoonfuls of sugar, one 
to each egg, then stir in the whites, and, lastly, pour over 
them three half-pints of cold morning’s milk, like a baked 
custard, which should be enough to fill the mould. Grate 
lemon-rind in the custard, unless you prefer vanilla; then 
take a Dutch oven, holding some cold water, and set the 
mould in it; let it reach one-third up the sides of the 
mould, and as the water begins to boil set it to one side 
the fire, where it can cook slowly for half an hour, which 
should be enough to cook it. Turn it out on a deep china 
dessert-dish, and have ready prepared a quart of boiled 
custard to pour around the pudding and serve as a sauce. 
Flavor it with a little bitter-almond, rose-water, or wine. 


WOU... «+5 sis wed 0 0 #96 savas 6 sie Mee 1 Ib. cake-mould. 
OOS isis aw ale tp a Shan chee o's Vee oe 4 

SUGAL. i as oa cc esele snes wince e wire ay ein] one 
Di iCas, sagen ais aevans re ey er tes 14 pts. 
MDONPC-CAKEC i o-0s t's oto en eee pee es es 1 qt. broken pieces. 
Raisins and currants... 0c 64.6. <0. ss eee eee $1b. : 

Lemons. 7.5. Siesta cess eee oe Rind of 1. 


Sauce with Sponge-cake Pudding, No. 2. 


NEAT 250, so oles cle tc ore cea ee a ee 1 qt. 

MOG OS Coan ose: reas ty rae ke ee ee 4 yolks. 
Extract of bitter-almonds or rose-water...... 4+ teaspoonful. 
POLED ET. 5 yn) vinta whe. bin aio_sheue- S04 chaNCy calc Sees ener 


Piain Motasses Puppinea. 


Cut nice cold loaf bread into thin slices, which must be 


well buttered; eight or ten egys beaten up, and added to 
two pints of molasses, must then be poured over until the 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 471 


bread is well saturated with it. Sprinkle through two 
table-spoonfuls of ground ginger, and bake for about an 
hour. Provide milk to drink with it, if possible. 


TYLER PupDING. 


Beat up separately the whites and yolks of six eggs ; 
add one cup of pulverized sugar, one cup of butter, one 
cup of cream. Add the butter last. Season delicately 
with nutmeg and lemon. Mash up some light-colored 
- preserves very smooth, and, after arranging pastry on 
plates for the reception of your pudding, spread over the 
bottom a layer of these preserves, and then fill up with 
the batter. Flavor with nutmeg and lemon. 


ives css se cesses 6 PUA re wath cet otk CULT 
1S a oa 1 cup. PRTIGLETI NS cine) tr oe. to 
os Nutmeg and lemon to taste. 
CO a rr Iopt. (Above quantity for two plates.) 


SWEETMEAT PUDDING. 


Sixteen eggs, leaving out the whites of eight; add to 
these one pound of sugar, half a pint of melted butter ; 
lay puff-paste in the bottom of pie-plates ; cover the bot- 
tom with sliced sweetmeats and bake. This quantity 
makes three puddings. 


PRA d aw ae se eas 16 yolks. Sweetmeats........ 1 pt. 
2 eee 8 whites. Puil-paste: <2... 00. 1 light qt. 
taeda td aw: ds}, gS ay a eidge oe L Ibs 


Breap PupDDING. 


Crumble up one quart loaf of bread into a quart of sweet 
milk; throw in a blade of mace and small stick of cinna- 
mon; let it boil until the bread becomes entirely soft ; 
be careful that it does not burn; let it cool; add three 
egos well beaten, one or two apples chopped up very fine, 


172 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


half a pound of seeded raisins, and, if you have no apples, 
double the quantity of raisins; a quarter of a pound of 
butter, one pound of sugar, salt-spoonful of salt. Bake 
in a quick oven. The quicker this is made and baked the 
lighter it will be. Serve with a rich sauce. 


Bread-crumbss/../....<2 3 4:qt, | Salt..coe ee * 1 salt-spoonful. 
IVE Bg ets cen ie aa a rae "| RSIS, nee 

ESUELEY ct. Gis cae Hem ated are oe +1b. | Apples. 22.58 5) 

SUSaroT Eee yee ees wae. 1 ‘‘ | Cinnamon..... small stick. 
HONS Ie vs amie Owes Sites toes 3 Mac€. . «suing eay baer 


To be baked, without pastry, in a pudding-dish. 


Citron Puppine (Delicious). 


Beat up very light the yolks of sixteen eggs; add to 
them sixteen even table-spoonfuls of powdered white 
sugar and the same quantity of melted butter. Have 
ready three pie-plates lined with nice puff-paste; cover 
the bottom with slices of preserved citron, cut very thin, 
and then pour in the batter, and bake till of a light- 
brown color. This pudding tastes better when, having 
been drawn from the oven some little while, it is not 
quite cold. Sift thickly over it granulated sugar. This 
quantity makes three puddings. 


ORANGE PuDDING. 


Boil tender the rinds of two large oranges ; beat them 
very fine in a mortar; add them to twelve well-beaten 
yolks of eggs, sweetened with three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar; add also half a pound of butter creamed, the 
juice of two oranges, and half a lemon strained. Bake in 
puff-paste. 


TODOS, Ati ocean cakes 12 yolks. | Butler. ieecne 4 Ib. 
POLLO n'y 9 a 4cdeas sin lve ane $b. Flavor......... 2 orange-rinds, 
Juice of two oranges and half a lemon. 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 173 


CusTARD PuDDING. 


Dissolve two even table-spoonfuls of corn-starch in 
half a teacupful of sweet milk; boil two cups of milk, 
and just as it comes to a boil add the beaten yolks of 
four eggs, the dissolved corn-starch, with a heaping cup- 
ful of pulverized sugar; flavor with the grated rind of 
two lemons, adding the juice also the last thing. Bake 
in puff-paste on pie-plates. When the pudding is nearly 
done add a méringue, which is made of the four whites 
beaten to a stiff froth, and sweetened with four table- 
spoonfuls of finely- powdered sugar. ‘This makes two 
puddings, if the plates are deep enough. 


Cocoa-NuT PupDING. 


To one large cocoa-nut, grated, beat the yolks of twelve 
egos with three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Cream 
seven ounces of butter, and whip up half a pint of sweet 
cream; add the cocoa-nut last. Bake in puff-paste. This 
quantity makes three puddings in deep plates. A light 
pound of flour and ten ounces of butter and lard makes 
pastry enough for them. 


Cream PuppDING. 


To make the cake: Beat five eggs separately and very 
light; add to the beaten yolks one cup of sugar, then the 
beaten whites. Put one teaspoonful of cream of tartar 
into one teacupful of flour, sifting them together well. 
Beat this into the eggs and sugar, and to the mixture 
add half a teaspoonful of soda. Divide the mixture, and 
bake in two tin plates in a quick oven. When only a 
little cool split the cakes and put the cream between. 

Make the cream as follows: Boil one pint of new milk, . 
beat the yolks’ of two eggs, and add half.a teacupful of 


174 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





sugar, then the beaten whites, and not quite half a tea- 
cupful of flour or corn-starch, enough to thicken, which is 
better than flour. When all are light and well mixed 
pour the boiling milk gradually to the other ingredients 
and return to the saucepan. Stir until a thick cream, 
and flavor with vanilla. This pudding makes a favorite 
dessert. 
GREEN-CORN PUDDING. 

Take twelve tender but full-grown ears of green corn 
and grate them down close to the cob. Have ready one 
quart of unskimmed milk, and stir into it by degrees a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter and a quarter of a 
pound of sugar. Beat four eggs very light, and then stir 
them into the milk alternately with the grated corn, a 
little of each at a time. Put the mixture into a baking- 
dish large enough to receive it. Bake for an hour. It 
may be eaten either hot or cold. Use with it a cold 
sauce of butter and sugar creamed together, when served 
as dessert. If eaten with the meat dinner omit the sugar. 


Rice Puppina. 


One quart of milk, a little more than a wineglassful of 
rice. Scald the rice in the milk until well done; adda 
teacup of sugar, a table-spoonful of butter, and delicate 
flavoring of either cinnamon or nutmeg. Bake for half 
an hour. 

To Maxe Rice Puppina. 

Take half a pint of rice boiled well done; then add a 
quarter of a pound of butter, eight table-spoonfuls of 
white sugar, eight eggs, half a pint of sweet cream, a lit- 
tle grated nutmeg, and a pint of dried currants, if you 
choose. Pure distilled rose-water is used for such dishes 
a great deal in lower Virginia, where roses grow so abun- 
dantly that families make their own supply, of a quality 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 175 


and flavor quite different from the article generally found 
in market. The above pudding is not meant for sauce, 
but a little wine poured over it while hot is considered a 
great improvement. 


ARROW-ROOT PUDDING. 


Pour a pint of boiling water on two table-spoonfuls of 
pure Bermuda arrow-root; stir in half a pound of butter 
until cool; add half a pound of sugar and half a dozen 
eggs, seasoning to your taste; a little wine and nutmeg 
or lemon, the juice and rind, are most frequently used. 
Served simply or in pastry. 


AppLeE Puppine, No. 1. 


Prepare about a quart of stewed apples, mashed per- 
fectly smooth; to these add one pound of sugar (fair 
‘brown even better than white), half a pound of butter, 
the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four; add half 
a teacupful of cream, and flavor with what you like—nut- 
meg imparts a flavor peculiarly agreeable to most palates, 
but two lemons, using both rind and juice, are very satis- 
factory. This quantity answers for filling four deep 
plates lined with puff-paste. 


AprpLe Puppine, No. 2. 


Eight eggs (the whites of four left out), half a pound 
of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, the crumbs of 
three’ stale rolls, one teacupful of cream, one pint of 
stewed apples, seasoned with lemon and nutmeg; bake in 
a dish, without pastry, and when cold whip up the four 
egos left out of the pudding with four ounces of pulver- 
ized white sugar; spread this méringue over the top of 
the pudding and bake for a very few minutes. It makes 
a pretty as well as palatable dish. 


176 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Norroitk Puppine PuFF. 


Measure out six spoonfuls of flour to six eggs; break 
the eggs carefully, the yolks in one dish, the whites in 
another; after beating the yolks till very thick, add them 
to the flour, stirring in a quart of milk gradually, and not 
forgetting to put in a pinch of salt; whip the whites un- 
til the dish in which they are may be inverted without 
wasting any, and then add them to the rest of the batter ; 
beat all well together, and bake either in cups or a single 
pudding-dish. Serve French sauce with this pudding. 


JELLY PUDDING. 


Kight eggs, a cup and a half of butter, a cup and a 
half of sugar, and a cup and a half of currant jelly ; 
season with a few drops of essence of lemon, if you can 
get none of the fresh fruit; bake the pie-crust nearly 
done in plates set aside for the pudding, and then pour 
in the batter, and bake until their tops are slightly 
brown. This quantity will make three deep pudding- 
plates full. 


Rice Puppine witrnout Eaas. 


Wash half a pint of rice; stir it into a quart of rich 
milk; add six ounces of fair brown sugar and a table- 
spoonful of pounded cinnamon; put it into a baking-dish, 
and let it cook slowly two hours or more. Eat it cold. 
Serve preserves at the same time, unless meant exclusive- 
ly for children or invalids. 


Fruir Puppia. 


Two cups of flour, one cup of butter, one cup of sugar, 
one cup of any kind of dried fruit, five eggs. Let the 
eggs be well beaten, the fruit floured, the butter and 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 177 


sugar creamed together, and then the whole thoroughly 
incorporated; make it up before breakfast, and let it boil 
three hours, either in a bag or mould. 


Motasses Puppina. 


One pint of good sirup, half a pint cup net quite full 
of melted butter, two well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful 
of ground ginger, half a pint of sour milk, and a heaping 
teaspoonful of soda; mix all together with flour enough 
to make a batter as thick as pound-cake batter (a quart 
will be about the quantity); bake for an hour in a batter- 
pan, having previously lined the bottom with a well- 
greased paper, especial care being needed to prevent 
burning ; turn it out on a flat dessert-dish; grate sugar 
over it, and eat it with liquid sauce. 


Aprte Pires witout Aprpies (for Scarce Seasons). 


Put ten large square soda crackers in a bow]; pour over 
them a quart of boiling water; let them soak for an hour; 
then mash them up very fine; add to them the grated peel 
and juice of four lemons, and five teacupfuls of brown 
sugar; put it in pastry, and bake like any other pie. 


DeticaTE APPLE PUDDING. 


Take as many stewed apples as will fill your pudding- 
dish three inches deep; add to the apple the grated rind 
of a lemon, and the juice also, if the fruit be not sour, or 
you may substitute the rind and juice of an orange, if you 
prefer that flavor; sweeten to your taste before arrang- 
ing the apples in your dish ; now stir into the apples half 
a pint of cream, or, if you have not cream, take the same 
quantity of milk, and thicken it with an even dessert- 
spoonful of flour and the yolk of one egg; scald these to- 
gether, stirring all the time; do not let tt boil; sweeten 

8* 


178 VIRGINIA COOKELY-BOOK 


with two table-spoonfuls of sugar ; take from the fire and 
set aside till cold, and then pour over the apple, and mix 
thoroughly into it; finish by spreading over the top 
whipped syllabub. Two highly-flavored oranges sliced 
thin and laid over the apples are thought by some to be 
nicer than the grated peel of either lemon or orange. 


APPLE CHARLOTTE. 


Prepare two dozen large cooking apples by peeling and 
cutting them into small, thin pieces. Have ready also one 
pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of sliced preserved 
citron, half a pound of hot melted butter, and a quart 
loaf of stale bread, also sliced thin. Take a baking-dish 
that will hold one gallon ; line it with slices of the bread 
dipped in the melted butter, placing the buttered side 
against the sides of the dish; now make a thick layer of 
apples ; strew plentifully with sugar, and dot with bits of 
citron; now another layer of buttered bread; now an- 
other thick one of apples, sugar, citron, etc., until the 
dish is packed as full as it will hold ; steam for a while to 
extract the juice from the fruit ; then place the dish in a 
stove-pan to bake, applying the heat, however, very grad- 
ually, so as to run no risk of breaking the dish; allow 
the charlotte to cook slowly for several hours, or until, 
by inserting a spoon, you find that the apples have be- 
come perfectly tender and transparent; when drawn from 
the oven turn out into a flat dessert-dish and sift over a 
frosting of granulated white sugar; serve with a sauce 
ofsimple cream. ‘To be eaten with dessert-spoons from 
small flat plates. 

Friar’s OMELET. 

Prepare one dozen apples as if for sauce; stir in a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter, the same of sugar; when cold, 
add four eggs well beaten; season with a little nutmeg 





¢ VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 179 


or cinnamon, or both; put the mixture into a baking-dish, 
thickly strewed with bread-crumbs, so as to stick at the 
bottom and sides; then the mixture, topping off with a 
layer of bread-crumbs. When baked, turn it out of the 
dish, and sprinkle powdered sugar over it. 


BiackBERRY Puppine (Very Good). 


Make a batter of one quart of milk, one quart of sifted 
flour, and five eggs; then stir in three pints of fresh 
blackberries, having first strewed them with a teacupful 
of brown sugar; bake in a two-quart baking-dish, and 
eat with French sauce. This pudding is eaten hot. 


OS ear ee eee Ric: is a prey raeroy) Renan Grae 5 
OT ao Sea ee PaCk DOTPICS: ssi oss oie 4 ols 3 pts. 


DRESSING FOR SPONGE-CAKE ROL. 


Take the pulp and juice of three lemons (extracting all 
the seeds), and the rind of one, either grated or chopped 
up very fine, two table-spoonfuls of butter, six eggs beat- 
en separately, sugar to the taste, three-quarters of a tea- 
cupful of cold water. Put all these ingredients together 
on the fire, and stir constantly until thick. Do not let it 
boil. Let it get cold, and use in place of jelly. 


Orancr Custarp Pre (Very Nice). 


Juice and grated rind of one orange, three-fourths of a 
cup of sugar, one cup-of water, one heaping table-spoon- 
ful of flour mixed in a little of the water, four well-beaten 
eggs, reserving the whites of two for frosting ; fill into 
crust and bake. For the frosting beat the whites of the 
reserved eggs to a stiff froth, with two table-spoonfuls of 
powdered sugar; spread evenly over top of pie, and re- 
turn to the oven till slightly browned. 


180 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


SPONGE-CAKE Rott. 


Four eggs beaten separately, one teacupful of white 
sugar, one teacupful of flour, one teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar mixed with the flour when it is sifted, half a tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in a little water; bake quickly 
in a biscuit-pan; turn out on to a damp cloth; put a layer 
of dressing over the whole surface, and roll up warm. 


DELMoNICO PUDDING. 


Boil a quart of milk over a slow fire, stirring often ; 
stir in the yolks of four eggs well beaten, four table- 
spoonfuls of corn-starch wet with milk, five table-spoon- 
fuls of sugar, and a pinch of salt; when the mixture 
thickens pour it into a tin kettle; set in cold water, or 
on ice, to prevent curdling ; beat the whites of the eggs 
to a froth; add four table-spoonfuls of sugar and one tea- 
spoonful of extract of vanilla; put the pudding in a bak- 
ing-dish, frost with the egg, and then brown it in an oven. 


’ Frenecu SAUCE FOR PupDINGS. 


Half a pound of brown sugar, a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter creamed, the yolk of one egg ; simmer and stir, then 
add a gill of wine, and grate over it a little nutmeg; allow 
a. quantity proportioned to the size of the family to be 
served. The above quantity will answer for eight persons. 


Harp Sauce. 
(Mrs. Chevallié.) 

Cream butter and powdered sugar together, a quarter 
of a pound each; rub some of the sugar on a lemon to 
impart flavor to it, and put in some of the juice also; 
make the sauce up like a pat of butter, and, if you choose, 
grate nutmeg over the top. 


' VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 181 





{ 


CHAPTER XV. 
SWEET CAKES. 


Sponge Cake.—Butter Sponge Cake.— Valley Sponge Cake.—Pound 
Cake.— Naples Biscuit.—Bride’s Cake.—Elegant Black Fruit 
Cake.—Fine Fruit Cake (More Modern Recipe).—A Cheaper but 
Good Fruit Cake.— White Fruit Cake.—Jackson Cake. — Lee 
Cake.— Composition Cake.—Snow-mountain Cake.—Home Gin- 
gerbread, No. 1.—Home Gingerbread, No. 2.—Lady Cake.—Pres- 
ton Ginger Cake.—Little Molasses Cake.—Mrs. J. Randolph Page’s 
Ginger Cake.—Mrs. Ritchie’s Marmalade Cake.—Ginger Snaps.— 
Jews Cake.—Good Ginger Cake.— Mrs. Garrett’s Ten-minute 
Cake.—Baker’s or Plebeian Gingerbread.—Never-failing Cake.— 
Cocoa-nut Cake.—Leavened Fruit Cake.—White Cup Cake.— 
Angel’s Food.—Republican Cake.—Wafers.—Cream Cake.—Tea 
Cake, No. 1.—Tea Cake, No. 2.—Indian Meal Pound Cake.—Al- 
mond Cake.—Shrewsbury Cakes.—A Good but Cheap Cake. 


SPONGE CAKE. 


Werau two pounds of sugar; balance it with an equal 
quantity of eggs in the shell; weigh one pound and two 
ounces of flour, and flavor highly with lemon. To be 
mixed in this way: Sift the flour and sugar; beat the eggs 
separately till as light as possible; then beat the sugar 
well with the yolks; then add to them the whites, and 
cream in the flour gradually, without farther beating; 
lastly, grate in all the rind from two lemons, and squeeze 
in the juice; lay a greased paper over the bottom of your 
mould or pan, seeing that it be well fitted. 


RT ee aca ss aga oe» 8 fa ME PP LOUL 2a} eve piesa E 1b..2.02, 


Butter SPonceE Cake. 


The weight of fourteen eggs in sugar, the weight of 
cight in flour, the weight of six in butter; cream butter 


182 ‘ VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BUOK. 





and sugar together; then add the yolks beaten light; then 
the whites beaten to a froth; then the flour ; season with 
vanilla or lemon, a teaspoonful of the first or one of the 
last. 
VALLEY SPONGE CAKE. 

Take fourteen eggs, using, however, only seven of the 
yolks, one pound of sugar, half a pound of flour, one 
lemon. Bake in a quick oven. 


Pounp CakE. 


Beat the whites and yolks of twelve eggs separately ; 
have ready weighed and sifted one pound of finest flour ; 
cream one pound of butter, after you have washed from 
it all the salt; now put this creamed butter into a large 
bowl or tray, and beat into it alternately flour, sugar, and 
eggs, until all the materials are used up; use only the 
froth of the white of eggs; if any clear settles in the 
bottom of the dish, either whip it up again or leave it 
out, if there is but a little of it. Line the bottom of your 
mould with thin brown paper greased. 


PGI eee wens s cosa ts 1lb. | Flavoring: grated lemon-peel, and 
| ge Bea rarer ara ara Ay 12 one nutmeg, or a teaspoonful of 
EGE carers sige pate eeals 1 Ib. mace ground fine. 


Napies Biscuit. 


This plain cake has been little seen of late, but was 
largely used in Virginia of the olden time at the tea-table, 
or_upon the waiter of refreshments that was so universally 
handed to any visitor who might happen to call at lunch- 
time. As it is simple and wholesome, we see not why it 
should go into disuse, and so give the recipe, which closely 
resembles that for sponge cake: One pound of flour, one 





VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. , 183 


pound of pulverized white sugar, and twelve eggs. No 
flavoring was used, unless the gill of wine, that old-fash- 
ioned house-keepers considered indispensable to all cake, 
as an aid to digestion as well as good flavor. Some house- 
wives left out the yolks of two of the twelve eggs, that 
the lightness of the whites might predominate. Long, 
narrow pans, were used in baking Naples biscuit, with 
divisions throughout their length, making the length of 
the biscuits four inches, and their width one and a half. 
The excellence of a cake of this sort consisted in its ight- 
ness and crispness. 


be 1 lb. UA rn. cat Adee Gob ans 1 Ib. 
re 12 “Wine.... 1 gill (not necessary). 


Bripe’s Cake. 


The whites of fourteen eggs, one pound and a quarter 
of sugar, one pound and a quarter of butter, one pound 
and a quarter of flour, one pound of almonds. The al- 
monds must be beaten to a paste in rose-water. Bake 
earefully in a slow oven. 


Execant Buack Fruit CAKE. 


Two pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, one 
pound of citron, one pound of almonds, one pound of 
sugar, one pound of butter, one pound of flour, one dozen 
eggs, a table-spoonful of mace, a table-spoonful of cin- 
namon, two nutmegs, one teacupful of wine and brandy 
mixed (this may be left out); cut up the raisins and cit- 
ron, but not too fine; roll them in flour to separate; bext 
the fruit into the eggs, after they have been whisked per- 
fectly light; also the butter and sugar, after they have 
been creamed together ; let the flour be lightly stirred in 
just before putting the cake into the oven. Put embers 
under the oven, and let it rise three hours; bake slowly 


184 VIRGINIA COOKLIRY-BOORK. 


then for three hours more, or until, by trying it with a 
straw, you find that none of the batter adheres to it; then 
draw the oven away from the fire, and let the cake soak 
at least two hours. If it is very large it will be better 
to leave it in the chimney-corner all night. Do not 
cut the almonds more than three times at most, and 
reserve a portion of the citron to be sliced and stuck 
in the cake after it is put into the oven. In stick- 
ing it in let the pieces go down out of sight in the 
dough, or they will be thrown out in the rising of the 
cake. 

Remark.—Ilt will be obvious to all that the above di- 
rections are for cooking by an open fire, but any person 
of common-sense can accommodate them to our modern 
stoves or ranges. 


Fine Fruir Caxe (More Modern Recipe). 


Twenty-four eggs, two pounds of butter, two pounds 
of sugar (brown is preferable), two pounds of flour 
(browned just as for gravy), four teaspoonfuls of baking — 
powder, four pounds of raisins (weighed after they are 
stoned), four pounds of currants, two pounds of citron, 
three nutmegs, one teaspoonful of mace or half a tea- 
spoonful of allspice, half a teaspoonful of cloves, one gill 
of good brandy ; mix the batter just as directed above in 
making pound cake ; then stir in all the fruits, save the 
raisins and citron; reserve these, after flouring them well, 
until you are filling the mould ; put in a two-inch layer 
of the dough; then strew over a layer of these fruits, and 
repeat this until the mould is two-thirds full; let the heat 
be gradually applied to it, and when the cake is well risen 
and slightly colored on top, put a paper over it, and keep 
it covered so until done, which will require from three to 
five hours. : 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 185 


A CHEAPER BUT Goop Fruit CAKE. 


One pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
half a pound of butter, one pound of raisins, one pound 
of currants, half a pound of citron, one teaspoonful of 
mace, one nutmeg, five eggs, one even teaspoonful of 
soda, half a pint of sour milk; flour the fruit well, cream 
the butter, and beat the eggs light, separately, and, no 
matter in what order you may put in the ingredients, 
your cake will be light; only, after soda is added, the 
baking should begin forthwith. 


Waite Fruit Cakn. 


One pound of butter, one pound of flour, one pound 
and a quarter of sugar, one dozen eggs, three pounds 
of citron chopped fine, two small cocoa-nuts, peeled and 
grated, two pounds of almonds (weighed before shelling), 
blanched and pounded, one wineglass of brandy, one of 
wine, three teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls of 
mace (measured before they are ground), one nutmeg. 


JACKSON CAKE, 


One pound of pulverized sugar, four cups (half a pint) 
of flour, one cup of butter, one cup of sour cream, six 
eggs, one teaspoonful of soda. If you have no sour 
cream, use two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar in con- 
junction with the soda and sweet milk; mix the butter, 
sugar, and yolks of eggs well; beat the whites to a stiff 
froth, and mix them with the flour gradually, beating all 
the while; flavor with lemon, and bake in a pan two or 
three inches thick. 

Ler Cake, 

Ten eggs, one pound of sugar, half a pound of flour. 

After beating very lightly, and mixing just as directed 


186 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


for sponge-cake, flavor with the juice and grated rind of 
a lemon; take the whites of two eggs and make into an 
icing, with one pound of pulverized white sugar, flavoring 
strongly with the juice of an orange, and a little bit of 
the grated rind; bake the cake thin, in fine tin plates ; 
place one in a dessert-dish ; cover with-a layer of the 
icing, and so continue until the pile is complete. Let 
the last layer be icing, of course. 


CoMPOSITION CAKE. 


This recipe was brought from the eastern shore of 
Virginia nearly fifty years ago, and is one of the best, as 
well as cheapest, that can be used in a family. It never 
fails, if at all carefully.prepared, and makes a delightful 
pudding, if served hot with sauce. One pound and three- 
quarters of flour, one pound and a quarter of brown or- 
white sugar, three-quarters of a pound of butter, four 
eggs, one pound and a half of raisins or currants, one 
nutmeg, one pint of milk, one teaspoonful of soda. 


SNOW-MOUNTAIN CAKE. 


Cream until very light half a pint of butter; add slow- 
ly; stirring all the time, a pint of pulverized white sugar, 
and when the mixture is light add half a pint of new 
milk, in which a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved; 
when well mixed, the yolks of five eggs; rub thoroughly 
into a heaping quart of flour sifted two teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar, and stir in the butter, alternating with 
the beaten whites of three of the eggs, reserving the 
other two for the icing. Either bake in three pans or 
six round jelly-plates; in the latter case put a chocolate 
icing between the layers of three of the cakes, and the 
other three the beaten whites of the two eggs, adding 
four teaspoonfuls of fine powdered sugar; on top of each 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 2194 


layer of cake and icing put grated cocoa-nut an inch 
in depth, and finish with it at the top. The desiccated 
cocoa-nut will answer, but the freshly-grated nut, partly 
dried, is much better. 


Home GINGERBREAD, No, 1. - 


To three quarts of flour put one pound of butter and 
three eggs, three pints of molasses, and three teaspoonfuls 
of pearlash dissolved in half a teacupful of sour cream or 
buttermilk, three table-spoonfuls of ginger. Cakes made 
by this recipe are better when poured in shallow pans, 
and cut into rectangular pieces when done, than when 
rolled out and cut in shapes. 


Homer GINGERBREAD, No. 2. 


Take seven teacupfuls of flour, one pint of molasses, 
one cup of sour cream, one cup of butter, one table-spoon- 
ful of ginger, one table-spoonful of soda dissolved in part 
of the cream or a little milk; add three-quarters of a 
pound of light-brown sugar; also other spices, if you like 
a higher flavoring. 

Lapy Cake. 

One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, half a pound 
of butter, whites of eleven eggs, a teaspoonful of soda, 
two of cream of tartar, nearly half a pint of sweet milk; 
cream the butter and add the sugar to it, beating dili- 
gently; sift the cream of tartar into the flour, so that it 
will diffuse itself throughout the mass; add the soda to 
the milk last of all; season with a teaspoonful of extract 
of bitter-almonds, and put to bake without delay. 


Preston GINGER CAKE. 


One quart of flour, four ounces of butter, one table- 
spoonful of ginger, one table-spoonful of sugar, half a 


188 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


nutmeg; mix into a moderately stiff paste with a pint 
of molasses; roll out thin, cut into set mess and 
bake in a quick oven. 


LirrLeE MouassEs CAakKk&. 


To one quart of molasses add one teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in half a teacupful of buttermilk or sour cream; 
let the molasses get warm, then stir in the soda, putting 
into it three-quarters of a pound of butter and lard mixed, 
and buttermilk; add two table-spoonfuls of ginger, and 
any other seasoning that you like. This quantity will 
make up about two quarts of flour. Allow some for the 
rolling out on the board. 


Mrs. J. Ranpoteuw Paceu’s GINGER CAKE. 


Two quarts of flour, one teacupful of sugar, one pint 
of molasses, half a pound of lard, four table-spoonfuls of 
ground ginger, one table-spoonful of ground cloves, and 
one teaspoonful of salt. Let any one try this recipe who 
wants to be convinced that the best things are not always 
the most expensive. The dough must be just as stiff as 
it can be to handle well, and rolled out to wafer-like 
thinness. Stick as you do biscuits, and bake quickly, 
without burning. Cut out also with a plain round bis- 
cuit-cutter. 


Mrs. Rircutn’s MARMALADE CAKR. 


Rub together one pound of sugar and one pound of 
butter until perfectly light; beat the yolks and whites 
of six eggs well; sift one pound and a half of flour into 
the butter, sugar, and eggs; a teaspoonful of mixed spices 
(cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace); half a glass of rose-water; 
stir the whole well, and roll it on your pasteboard about 
half an inch thick; then cut out your cakes and bake 


a a 
mn 46,4 eae 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 189 





them a few minutes ; when cold spread the surface of 
‘each cake with peach, quince, or raspberry marmalade ; 
beat the whites of eight eggs very light; add enough 
powdered sugar to make it thick as icing; flavor it with 
lemon, and with a spoon put it on each cake, high in the 
centre; put the cakes in an oven, and as soon as they are 
a pale brown take them out. 


GINGER SNAPS. 


Four quarts of flour, one quart of molasses, one pound 
of sugar (brown), one pound of lard, one ounce of soda 
or pearlash, and three ounces of ginger. 


JEw’s CaknE. 


To one pint of flour put four ounces of brown sugar, a 
little nutmeg and lemon-peel, or mace or cinnamon, ac- 
cording to taste; mix the dough up with the yolk of an 
egg; roll it out thin, and cut into any shape you please. 
Just as they are to be put into the oven throw a little 
pounded white sugar over them (not pounded very fine). 
The brown sugar must be rolled fine and smooth with the 
rolling-pin before it is mixed with the flour. 


Goop GincER CAKE. 


One pound of butter, three-quarters of a pound of 
brown sugar, one quart of molasses, one ounce of cinna- 
mon, three dozen cloves, six dozen allspice, two table- 
spoonfuls of ground ginger, and about three quarts of 
flour, or enough to make a tolerably stiff dough. 


Mrs. GARRETT’s TEN-MINUTE CAKE. 


Take two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and. mix it, 
by sifting, with one pint of dry flour, one even teaspoon- 
ful of soda, dissolved in a teacupful of milk; rub a piece 


190 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





of butter the size of an egg into the dry flour; then beat 
up one egg, and a teacupful of sugar; mix all well to- 
gether, and bake without delay. Have your oven ready 
heated before you begin mixing, and you can make and 
bake the cake in ten minutes. 


BAKER’S OR PLEBEIAN GINGERBREAD. 


Two quarts of flour, four teaspoonfuls of soda, one 
quart of molasses, one cup of sour cream, one half cup of 
ginger, one large table-spoonful of lard. Sprinkle the 
ginger into the flour; mix sugar and molasses with the 
cream and soda. 


NEVER-FAILING CAKE. 


Three- quarters of a pound of butter, one pound of 
sugar, one pound of flour, eight eggs. Cream the butter 
and sugar together ; add a handful of flour and two eggs, 
then another handful of flour and eggs, and so on, until all 
the ingredients are mixed together. Flavor as you like. 
Beat well each time, and bake in a one-pound mould. 


Cocoa-nuT CAKE. 


One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, half a pound 
of butter, one dozen eggs, the half of a cocoa-nut grated, 
one lemon (juice and rind); mix as you do pound-cake 
batter, and bake in small cups or shallow pans. 


LEAVENED Fruit Caxkks. 


To one pound and a half of flour put one gill of yeast, 
six eggs, and a pound of butter, one pound and a quarter 
of good brown sugar, one gill of brandy, three teaspoon- 
fuls of mace and nutmeg mixed, one pound of raisins or 
currants, half a pint cup of cream. Let half the materials 
be set to rise with the quantity of yeast named, and when 
well risen the other part added. Give it ample time to 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 191 


— 


rise, and when well swollen put in the second half of the 
materials, and give it another good rise. It will require 
a part of two days to complete the whole process, but 
rewards by being a cake of peculiarly nice flavor. 


Wuitre Cur Cakks. 


Whites of eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth, three 
half-pint cupfuls of flour, two half-pint cupfuls of white 
sugar, one half-pint cupful of butter, one half-pint cupful 
of cream, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar sifted into 
the flour, half a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda dis- 
solved in the cream; mix sugar and butter together until 
well creamed, then add alternately flour and eggs until 
all are in, reserving the cream to pour in last; season with 
essence of bitter-almonds or rose-water. Bake in rather a 
quick oven. 

ANGEL’s Foon. 

(The glass spoken of in this recipe is an ordinary half- 
pint tumbler.) One glass of flour sifted jive times, one 
glass and a half of powdered sugar sifted, whites of 
eleven eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, one teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar; season to your taste with vanilla—a 
delicate flavor recommended, however; beat the eggs 
very light; sift in the sugar by degrees, not beating but 
stirring lightly; add the flour very gently, using your 
spoon lightly—do not beat; season to suit your taste, and, 
last of all, stir in the cream of tartar: bake at once. Do 
not grease your pan, but line the bottom and sides of the 
mould with paper. Use a straw to test the fact of its be- 
ing done, and let the cake stand in the pan a few minutes 
after it is done. 

REPUBLICAN Cake. 

Five eggs, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, one 

pound of flour, half a pound of butter, one teaspoonful of 


192 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one cup of © 


sweet milk; first beat the eggs, whites and yolks sepa- 
rately; add the sugar to the yolks when they are light, 
and beat again; then add the butter, after washing the 
salt from it and creaming it, then the cup of milk and 
whites of egg. ‘The flour should be added last, the soda 
and cream of tartar having been perfectly incorporated 
with it by sifting. Let the process of making be as 
prompt as possible, and bake in a quick, steady oven. 


Migarncuts We; 1 Ib. DORE. on. er ee £ Ib. 

URC onus ks 4“ Milk 2 i203 ee 1 cup. 

PES oes gas wate 5 Cream of tartar. 2 teaspoonfuls. 

POUR ee sce ees 1 teaspoonful. | (Flavor as your fancy directs.) 
WAFERS. ) 


Beat six eggs separately ; add a pint of flour, half a 
pound of sugar, and two ounces of butter. ‘They are nice 


without any flavoring; but, if preferred, a little grated 


nutmeg or powdered cinnamon is not amiss. For the 
baking of these cakes a particular iron is needed, known 
as wafer-tongs. Grease these well, but delicately ; pour 
in a dessert-spoonful of batter; thrust the irons in the 
fire; hold them there only three minutes; cut off with 
a knife any burnt batter that may exude; have a clean 
dish ready ; rest the irons upon a table close at hand, and 
with a fork fold the wafer up into a small roll. No cake 
can be more dainty and delicious, if successful. If, upon 
trying, the batter be a little too short, and break, add a 
few teaspoonfuls of milk, and the fault will be corrected. 


Cream CAKE. 


Three cups of sugar, one cup of butter, rubbed together, 
two cups of cream, five cups of flour, four eggs, half a 
teaspoonful of soda, half a glass of wine, and one tea- 
spoonful of any spice you fancy. : 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 193 


Tra Caxr, No. 1. 


Two teacupfuls of sugar, one teacupful of butter, one 
teacupful and a half of milk, and two eggs; dissolve half 
a teaspoonful of soda in the milk, and mix enough flour 
with these ingredients to make a paste that will roll 
handily; cut out with a biscuit-cutter, and bake. 


Tra Caxez, No. 2. 


Three pints of flour, with which Horsford Powder has 
been incorporated in the regular proportion, three teacup- 
fuls of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and one 
nutmeg; make up with milk or water, as you find conven- 
ient ; roll them out, and cut into round or fancy shapes. 
If you prefer, you can use buttermilk and a teaspoonful 
of soda instead of yeast flour. 


Inpian Meat Pounp Cake. 


Sift a pint of Indian meal and half a pint of flour; mix 
them together ; stir together half a pound of loaf sugar 
and half a pound of fresh butter, with a table-spoonful 
of cinnamon, a nutmeg, a glass of wine, and one of brandy; 
beat eight eggs very light, and stir them into the butter — 
and sugar, a little at a time, in turn with the meal. When 
well mixed and beaten, pour into a greased pan and bake 
for an hour and a half. 


ALMOND CAKE. 


One pound of butter, one pound and a half of flour, one 
pound and a half of sugar, the whites of eighteen eggs, 
two pounds of blanched almonds, one dozen of bitter 
almonds, one teaspoonful of mace. This cake must be 
baked in shallow pans, and is delicious. It should be 


iced. 
9 


194 ; : VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


To Maxre SHREWSBURY CAKES. 


Take four eggs; beat them with two spoonfuls of rose- 
water and three of wine; one pound of flour well dried, 
half a pound of butter, and three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar; cut your butter in slices upon the flour, and 
put the sugar to it; then put your eggs to the flour, su- 
gar, and butter, and mix them all well together; then cut 
them out into little thin cakes, dust sugar over them, and 
bake in a slow oven. 


A Goop suT CHEAP Cake. 
(Mrs. Governor Floyd's Recipe.) 

Three cups of sugar, three eggs, three cups of sifted 
flour, one cup of sour cream, one small teaspoonful of 
soda. Add the cream and soda last. The batter will be 
uncommonly stiff. Half fill cups with it, and bake in a 
quick oven. Flavor with what you like. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 195 


CHAPTER XVI. 
ICINGS. 


Icing for Cake, No. 1.—Icing for Cake, No. 2.—Transparent Icing. 
—To Make Boiled Icing.—Chocolate Icing.—Red or Pink Color- 
ing for Icings, Jelly, etc., Nos. 1 and 2. 


Icinc ror Cake, No. 1. 


To the whites of three eggs put one pound of very fine 
pulverized white sugar, and any flavoring you like, either 
the juice of a large lemon strained, or a teaspoonful of 
extract of rose or vanilla; sift the sugar into a bowl and 
break the eggs into it, being very careful not to let @ 
particle of the yolk be mixed with the whites ; beat the 
latter with the sugar until they are very light, using a 
wooden spoon or paddle; when become very white and 
smooth add a pinch of cream of tartar, to promote rapid 
hardening ; wipe the cake over with a little flour, and 
apply the icing by means of a knife with a broad blade ; 
keep & bowl of water at hand, in which the knife may be 
repeatedly dipped, for this gives a fine gloss. The icing 
should not run off the cake; if it does, add more sugar. 


IcInc FoR Cake, No. 2. 


Another equally good way to make icing is to whip up 
the whites of four eggs till they stand alone, then to add 
one pound of sifted sugar, a spoonful at a time, beating 
all the while, and so lightly that the whites never fall, 
and when applied can be put on in a thick coating, of 
which not a drop will roll off ; add a little dissolved gum- 
arabic, to prevent the icing from peeling off in a sheet 


196 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


when cut into. This kind of icing dries rapidly, espe- 
cially when exposed to the heat of a fire, but take care not 
to set it near enough for the color to be browned ; flavor 
with orange or lemon-juice, or any extract fancied. 

If you wish to ornament your iced cakes with flowers 
or figures, you must either purchase a cone, patented for 
the purpose, or make a paper cone for yourself, gluing 
the sides together and making an opening at the bottom 
large enough for the icing to come out in dots or a con- 
tinuous stream, made to follow the outline of a design, 
sketched lightly on the smooth coating of icing that has 
been put on in the first instance. 

Wax tapers are fastened on the top of birthday cakes 
by melting them a little at the lower end, and holding 
them a minute or two gently in position, when they will 
keep in place. 

TRANSPARENT Icina. 

For a large cake put two pounds of finely powdered 
white sugar in a small kettle, and add to it a pint of 
water; let them boil together until quite thick; then rub 
the sugar against the sides of the kettle until it looks 
white and milky; then flavor with two table-spoonfuls of 
lemon-juice, or enough vanilla to impart a delicate flavor, 
and pour the icing while hot over the cake so as to coat 
it all over. 

To Maxe Bortep Icrne. 

Two pounds of pure white sugar are to be put into a 
stewpan with half a pint of water, and boiled until the 
water is out, but the sugar must not be suffered to candy; 
take it off the fire, and when cool enough not to harden 
them, beat the whites of eight eggs very light, and stir 
all well together ; flavor, and apply to the cake like any 
other frosting. Some persons prefer this mode of making 
It to any other. 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 197 


CuHocoLATE IcING. 


Three table-spoonfuls of grated chocolate, five table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar, a lump of butter the size of a 
hickory-nut, and one spoonful of cream. This icing must 
be boiled about ten minutes, and then spread hot over 
the cake to be iced. 


Rep or Pink Couorine For Icines, JEtty, EtTc., No, 1. 


Take twenty grains of cochineal and fifteen grains of 
cream of tartar finely powdered; add a piece of alum the 
size of a pea; boil these things together with a gill of 
soft water, slowly, for half an hour in an earthen vessel; 
then strain through thin muslin, and cork very tightly in 
a phial. It will keep, and a very little suffices to use at 
one time. 


Rep or Pink Coxtorine For Ictnas, JELLY, EtTc., No. 2. 


Gather poke-berries just before frost falls; express the 
juice, and let it drip clear through a flannel or thin mus- 
lin bag; to one pint of juice allow three-quarters of a 
pound of white sugar; boil rapidly together for twenty 
minutes, and put away in a small glass jar for use. This 
quantity will last an ordinary family for a whole year, 
and be found very useful in ornamental cookery. 


198 . VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


CHAPTER XVII 
ICE-CREAM AND CUSTARD. 


Vanilla Ice-cream.—Economical Lemon Ice-cream.—Lemon Sirup. 
—Lemon Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice-cream.— Strawberry Ice- 
cream in Winter.— Raspberry Ice-cream.— Peach Ice-cream.— 
Green-apple Cream.— Caramel Cream.— Cocoa-nut Ice-cream.— 
Chocolate Ice-cream.—Chocolate Custard.—Coffee Cream.—Cof- 
fee Cream (Another Way).— Pineapple Cream—Orange Ice.— 
Lemon Sherbet.—Pineapple Sherbet.—Frozen Tea.—Tutti Frut- 
ti.— Currant Ice.— Gooseberry -fool.— Frozen Plum Pudding.— 
Boiled Custard.—Trifle.—Burnt Custard.—Baked Custard.—Ba- 
nana Ice-Cream.—Banana Cream.—Frozen Peaches. 


No dessert is so generally liked, and it is a mistake to 
suppose that its preparation involves more than ordinary 
trouble. With a little pains in studying general princi- 
ples, and exercise in carrying them into practice, the 
house-keeper will find that she can succeed in making as 
elegant a dish as can the city confectioner, and one that 
is more palatable. Here, as in so many other depart- 
ments of household economy, modern science has been 
‘at work to facilitate mechanical processes; therefore, with 
a “Five-minute Freezer,” that actually does freeze ice- 
cream in ten minutes, no house-keeper can escape the 
imputation of indolence who refuses to treat her family 
now and then to the healthful refreshment afforded by a 
bowl of ice-cream. 

But with an ordinary freezer one can do very well. 
Wherever colored labor is employed, experience has proy- 
en that simple contrivances are safest to employ ; for, 
where there is the least complication of machinery with 





4 
4 
. 
7 
4 
’ 
- 


a eee ee ee a 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 199 


our colored friends, there -is ever a screw loose or a 
button lost, since they have an invincible repugnance to 
modern improvements, So, in Southern families, ‘“ Five- 
minute Freezers” have mostly been laid aside for the 
plain tin cylinder for a freezer, with its double bottom 
coated with zinc. <A tall, deep tub should be procured, 
not more than four inches larger in diameter than the 


freezer; then with a small spade (about the size of a 


woman’s hand), fastened securely to a long wooden han- 
dle, one is furnished with the whole outfit needed, though 
one should wish to have ice-cream made every day dur- 
ing the hot season. 

Snow has been ascertained to answer for freezing pur- 
poses even better than ice. The finer ice is pounded the 
more expeditiously will the task of freezing be accom- 
plished. To avoid waste, when ice is to be pounded it 
should be first enclosed in a stout linen bag, and from 
that be emptied into the tub, where it must be packed 
around the freezer as closely as possible, salt being sprin- 
kled upon it through and through. The philosophy of 
the matter being that the freezing of the cream results 
from the lowering of the temperature caused by the ac- 
tion of the salt in melting the ice, it follows that the 
larger the surface acted upon by the salt the more per- 
fect will be the mixture of the two, and the quicker the 
reduction of temperature to the required state. In brief, 
the finer the salted ice, and the more numerous its points 
of contact with the freezer, the faster will the cream 


harden. In a freezer such as we have described half an — 


hour is enough time to allow for the operation. A gallon 
of salt and a peck (twenty-five pounds) of ice is the al- 
lowance for a two-gallon freezer. 

Before putting in the cream wipe off the top and sides 
of the freezer, to prevent the admission of the least parti- 


200 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


cle of salt, and do so every time the lid is lifted. Hold- 
ing its handle, the freezer must be shaken rapidly from 
the very first ; but, after five minutes’ brisk turning, open 
the freezer and cut down from the sides the slight sheet 
that will already line the sides ; spade it up from the bot- 
tom likewise, and beat the whole together, the little that 
has frozen with the rest. The proper motion is very like 
that known to cooks as “creaming” when they prepare 
butter for cake. After beating it up light shut the 
freezer-lid down close again, turn rapidly for another 
five or ten minutes; cut down and beat up again, etc., 
until the cream is all evenly frozen light and smooth. 
Whipping up the cream increases the bulk, and im-- 
proves the dish to most tastes. A few whites of egg 
added when the cream has fairly begun to freeze help 
to make the process go on rapidly, and add to the smooth- 
ness of the mixture, making home-made ice-cream more 
like confectioner’s. Pure cream, simply sweetened and 
‘ flavored, is undoubtedly the best formula of preparation 
that can be given for ice-cream, but delicious imitations 
can and have been made, when no inexhaustible dairy was 
at. hand whence to draw supplies. A gentleman who was 
a connoisseur in such matters once asked a lady to let him 
know where to procure such delicious cream, when there 
was not a drop of cream in what was before them. Skill 
and good taste can so combine as to make the best of all 
apologies for the thrift of the economical housewife. 


VANILLA ICE-CREAM. 


Vanilla is more popular than any ice-cream, and yet the 
provider finds that it is the most expensive in a very im- 
portant respect—namely, it requires much richer cream to 
make it good than any other flavoring. To one gallon of 
ice-cream, which is enough for sixteen persons, put one 





sot Tbh ncaa 


——< 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 201 


pound and a quarter of white sugar, and a flavoring of 


vanilla according to taste. 


The great difference in the strength of extracts makes 
it impossible to name an exact quantity for the seasoning. 
Remember, it is always better to put too little than too 
much. The fact is, where one can afford it, there is no 
flavoring of vanilla imparted equal to that obtained from 
the genuine vanilla bean, its comparatively high price 
alone having brought it into disuse. The way to season 
with that (one bean being enough for a gallon) is to split 
it and boil it in a cup of milk. When the milk has boiled 
take out the bean and scrape down the tiny seeds into the 
milk, for they are so infinitesimally small as not to be ob- 
jectionable. Then add the milk to the cream. Dry the 
bean, and it may be used once more. 

The next best seasoning of vanilla for home-made 
cream is obtained from the vanilla grass, a clump or two 
furnishing flavoring enough for a summer. Gather the 
seed-heads, and, tying a bunch of them together, boil in 
a bag in milk, as directed in case of the bean. 

When your cream has been set to freeze beat up the 
whites of four eggs, and add them when the freezing has 
just begun, stirring so as to mix thoroughly. Whether you 
whip up the cream or not must be left to discretion, for, in 
the judgment of many, the beating up inside the freezer 
is amply sufficient for making it light, and a good house- 
keeper never encourages a useless expenditure of time and 
strength. 

Economica Lemon IcE-cREAM. 

Often in the country cream cannot be spared, because 
all must be given to the churn, and yet a nice dessert is 
wanted. For ice-cream enough for twelve persons take 
two quarts of fresh buttermilk (it must not be cheesy), 
then put on the fire a quart of unskimmed sweet milk, in 

9* 


202 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-LOOLK. 


which you have dropped the thinly-pared rinds of three 
lemons; meanwhile beat up very well the yolks of four 
egos, and stir into them one pound of sugar; as soon as 
the milk boils pour it upon the eggs, a very little at a 
time, till all is smoothly mixed; then return to the kettle 
and keep there for about five minutes, stirring constantly, 
or until the custard thickens ; then mix with the butter- 
milk, and if upon tasting it you find the acid to be at all 
perceptible, however mild, you need add no lemon-juice. 
If you think a little would give piquancy to the flavor, 
however, squeeze in just the least bit. This combination 
so successfully imitates cream that it would deceive an 
expert. The little egg put in gives a delicate yellow hue 
that aids in the pleasing illusion, the eye having more to 
do with the perceptions of the palate than we are accus- 
tomed to believe. Save the whites of the egg to add 
while the freezing is going on. When lemons are out 
of season use a sirup made by the following recipe. It 
is judicious to keep some on hand, making it in the spring 
of the year, when lemons are so cheap and plentiful in the 
cities. 
Lemon SIRvp. 

To two pounds of loaf or pulverized sugar put two 
pints of water and the juice of eight good lemons, with 
the rind of three, boiled for about twenty minutes. After 
the sugar and water are boiled and skimmed till clear 
you then add the juice, which is not to be strained until 
the sirup is done; when done, then strain and bottle it. 
This quantity makes two quart bottles full, bringing the 
cost to about twenty or thirty cents apiece. 


Lemon IcE-cREAM. 


Differing from vanilla, lemon-juice greatly enriches 
cream, so that if it is very rich it will stand a considera- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK, 203 


ble admixture of milk, and be the better for it. Take 
two fair-sized lemons, pare off their rinds very thin, and 
put them on the fire to boil in a pint of fresh milk ; squeeze 
the juice from the lemons; put into your freezer three 
pints of pure cream, and then strain into it the pint of 
seasoned milk, in which has been dissolved three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar; lastly, strain the juice, and do not 
be alarmed if the milk curdles, for the process of freezing 
will restore it to its first condition. We have moreover 
seen cream that had really turned to bonny-clabber, when 
seasoned and frozen, answer just as well as if it had been 
perfectly sweet. This is especially the case when flavored 
with lemon. Ice-cream should always have rather more 
sugar allowed in the first instance than taste requires, 
because it loses in sweetness from being frozen. 

We do not recommend essence of lemon to be used at 
all in flavoring ice-cream, for it is not delicate enough to 
take the place of the fresh fruit. Add the whites of a 
few eges, as usual during the process of freezing ; taste 
your cream after mixing it, and, if more lemon is needed, 
strain in a little more juice; more sugar may also be 
needed, but the above measures will be found correct 
under ordinary conditions. 


STRAWBERRY ICE-CREAM. 


When strawberries are in season there are three distinct 
ways of making them into ice-cream, any one of them 
good. We give the three, that you may follow the one 
you fancy, or alternate at pleasure. The prettiest way 
is that adopted by confectioners. Squeeze wild straw- 
berries, if you can get them, capped or uncapped, and to 
one pint of the expressed juice put two quarts of cream 
and one pound of pulverized sugar. No one can com- 
plain of this cream; but at the first of the season, when 


204 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


strawberries, being scarce and high, are all the more 
craved, persons cannot afford to be so lavish of them, and 
one quart of capped berries, simply mashed up and made 
into ice-cream, gives three times as many persons enjoy- 
ment of the variety as could be afforded in any other way. 
As nearly as we can come at the proportions of strawberry 
cream made in this fashion, they are: one quart of straw- 
berries, two quarts of cream, one pound of sugar. 

The third way is resorted to when berries are ripe and 
plentiful. Take two quarts of large, red strawberries, 
after they have been capped, put them in 2 china bowl, 
and sprinkle through and over them one pound and three- 
quarters of sugar. In two hours much sirup will have 
been formed, which must be added directly to three quarts 
of cream. Then put them in the freezer, and when be- 
ginning to get firm stir in the whole berries left in the 
bowl. This is a very delicious cream: two quarts of 
strawberries, three quarts of cream, one pound and three- 
quarters of sugar. 

Remarks.—Strawberry juice, like lemon, imparts rich- 
ness,-so that where cream is scarce you can use, in part, 
milk, and even a little buttermilk, and still have your 
cream amply rich. 

No matter how exact may be the recipe you follow, al- 
ways taste ice-cream before you set it to freeze, the bet- 
ter to guard against disappointment. When sweetened 
exactly to the taste, it is always safe to add a fica: cup- 
ful of sugar more “ for the freezer.” 


STRAWBERRY IcE-cREAM IN WINTER. 


When strawberries are out of season a pint bottle of 
strawberry acid (vide Strawberry Acid, page 278) is sufii- 
cient to flavor three pints of cream without farther addi- 
tion of sugar, but a little poke-berry jelly mixed first, with 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 205 


the point of a knife, in a spoonful of the cream taken out 
and then stirred in the whole till the right color is at- 
tained, will materially improve the resemblance to cream 
made of the fresh fruit. 

Canned strawberries of the Wayne County brand also 
make an excellent cream, retaining the flavor of the fresh 
fruit to a surprising degree, nor need any sugar be added. 
The aid of a little coloring matter may be called in here, 
too, to advantage. Strain in the juice only, or use fruit 
and sirup, as you prefer—either is very nice. 


RASPBERRY ICE-CREAM. 


The juice only must be used in making raspberry 
cream, about one pint of juice to one quart of cream, and 
a light pound of sugar. The red Antwerp raspberry, 
when blended with the cream, produces a lovely color, 
and has exquisite fragrance as well as delicate flavor, but 
even the juice of the common wild raspberry makes a 
very nice variety in the matter of creams. 

In winter, canned raspberries, or even raspberry jam, 
put in a small sieve, and the juice from them strained 
into cream, will prove most satisfactory. Allow five 
ounces of sugar to a quart of the flavored cream, if the 
fruit has not been sweetened ; otherwise sweeten to taste. 


Pracu Icr-crEAM. 


This may be made the best of all ice-creams, and yet 
it is one of the most difficult for which to supply an exact 
recipe. ‘Try the following, and if more sugar is needed 
alter to your taste. The best ice-cream is made from 
mellow, soft peaches, and the yellow-fleshed give a charm- 
ing color. In an emergency, however, I have seen very 
nice made out of indifferent pieces not presentable in any 
other form. Peel, halve, and spread out your peaches 


206 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


upon a large flat dish, and with a silver or broad wooden 
fork mash as fine and smooth as possible. Measure the 
pulp, and to one quart put three-quarters of a pound of 
powdered sugar and a quart of cream, that need not be 
very rich. Mix and freeze as usual. 


Soft peaches, mashed..... 1 qt. | White sugar, powdered... 2 Ib. 
. Cream, 1 qt. 


GREEN-APPLE CREAM. 


Stew the apples when green, the last of June, or in 
July; mash and sweeten them very sweet with white or 
brown sugar; flavor with lemon or a little nutmeg; add 
as much cream as you have apples, which you can ascer- 
tain by measurement, and sweeten to your taste, or by 
allowing a heaping teacupful of sugar to a quart, then 
adding a small cupful “for the freezer.” Some prefer to 
freeze the coddled apples alone, and send a pitcher of 
cold cream to table with them, to be used ad libitum. 


Coddled apples...... ey a5 Cream .... 1 qt. 
Brown or white sugar. 3 cupfuls. | Nutmeg... a half one grated in. 


¥ 


CARAMEL CREAM. 


This ice is admired wherever it is seen, but is more 
than usually troublesome to prepare, because taste, judg- 
ment, and experience are all called into requisition to 
make success certain. If one has aptitude for cookery, 
however, she may do well the first time by the following 
directions, which are as precise as they can be made: 

Put on to boil in a preserving-kettle one gallon of rich 
new milk; meanwhile beat up as light as possible the 
yolks of sixteen eggs; after they are light add to them, 
and beat in, two cupfuls of pulverized white sugar. At 
the same time have an assistant put two cupfuls of brown 
sugar, dry, into a skillet, and place it on the fire where it 





‘ 
E ss 
$ 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 207 


may burn. When the milk boils remove it quickly from 
the’fire, and add it to the eggs, a little at a time, stirring 
until all is mixed. Then return to the fire, and stir until 
it thickens. The sugar will have now been burnt very 
black, some one having been stirring and watching it all 
the while. Take the custard from the fire and pour a 
little of it into the burnt sugar, which will sputter and 
send out smoke, but this must not be minded; keep on 
adding a little and a little till the whole is smooth and 
the skillet full, then pour its contents gradually into the 
main bowl of custard, but pause and taste when it looks 
the color of strong coffee, for if darker than this the 


_ sugar has been too much burnt. The art of making cara- 


mel depends upon burning the sugar to the precisely 
proper extent. If too little burnt the cream is mawkish; 
if too much, bitter and brackish ; if precisely right, it is 
delightful. ‘Practice makes perfect,” and we recom- 
mend the recipe as worth trying. 

Burning the sugar too little is remedied by taking 
another cup of sugar and burning that most decidedly ; 
burning too much, by adding cream or more custard un- 
til the proper degree has been reached. But it is most 
advisable to take great pains to be right in the first place, 
if trouble and annoyance would be avoided. Made thus: 
For one gallon of custard take one gallon of milk, two 


-cupfuls of white sugar, sixteen yolks of eggs, two cup- 


fuls of brown sugar burnt. 
N.B.—Do not forget to add the extra cup allowed to 
make up for the waste of sweetness in freezing. 


Cocoa-NutT IcE-CcREAM. 


Free the nut from its shell, and grate the meat fine ; 
allow two nuts to one gallon of cream ; sweeten the cream 
with a pound and a quarter of white sugar ; add the milk 


208 VIRGINIA COOKERY-LOOK. 


of the cocoa-nut, if you like its rich taste, or omit it at 
pleasure. When the cream is partially frozen add the 
cocoa-nut, with the beaten whites of three eggs. If a 
confectioner is near at hand, it is better to purchase the 
nut already grated, as he will be willing to furnish it thus 
for a few additional cents—not worth speaking of, com- | 
pared with the trouble saved. 


CuocoLaTE IcE-cREAM. 


Scrape up a quarter of a pound of Baker’s Chocolate, 
and dissolve it in a little water; then add to it one quart 
of fresh milk, and put it on the fire in a stewpan to boil, 
stirring it all the time; make a paste of one table-spoon- 
ful of corn-starch and the same quantity of cold milk; 
stir it into the chocolate, and boil until it has well thick- 
ened, which should be in about fifteen minutes ; add two 
teacupfuls of white sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract; when well thickened, remove the chocolate from the 
fire, and add it to a quart of rich cream; freeze as usual. 


CHOCOLATE CUSTARD. 


Many of the best house-keepers do not trouble them- 
selves about having any cream at all in preparing frozen 
chocolate, but use custard altogether. Some persons like 
a mere delicate flavor of chocolate, others prefer it strong. 
and rich. We here endeavor to strike a happy medium. 
Either a very little cinnamon or vanilla is thought to 
improve the flavor of this cream; but when the French 
preparations are used they are sufficiently seasoned, with- 
out addition of any kind save a little sugar. 

Scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate very fine, and 
put it on the fire with two quarts of fresh milk; mean- 
while beat up very well the yolks of six eggs, adding, 
when they are partially lightened, two cupfuls (or ten 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 209 


ounces) of sugar; continue beating until the chocolate 
and milk boil up, when take it quickly from the fire, and 
pour in a little at a time upon the sugar and eggs, till all 
are smoothly mixed; then return to the kettle, and stir 
briskly for five minutes longer, when the eggs will be 
done, and the custard sufficiently thick; beat up the 
whites of eggs left, and add them when the cream in the 
freezer is beginning to harden. 


CorrEE CREAM. 


This is a favorite refreshment at gentlemen’s supper- 
parties. Toast two gills of raw coffee till it is a light 
brown, and not a grain burnt; put it hot from the toaster, 
without grinding it, into a quart of rich and perfectly 
sweet milk; boil it, and add the yolks of four eggs beaten 
up and mixed with half a pint of sugar. When done in 
this way the color of the coffee is not imparted; but, as 
this is often particularly admired, you can obtain it by 
burning a cup of brown sugar, and adding a little of the 
hot custard to it at a time till all is added, and your cream 
-a rich coffee-color. 


Corrrr Cream (Another Way). 


Take eight table-spoonfuls of freshly ground Java cof- 
fee and put it on to boil, or rather steep, in a small coffee- 
pot, with only one cup. of water; pour this extremely 
strong decoction into two quarts of rich cream, and 
sweeten with three-quarters of a pound of sugar. If the 
cream should not be thick enough, it may be brought to 
the right consistence by making a table-spoonful of corn- 
starch into a paste, boiling it with a small portion of the 
cream, and stirring it into the whole quantity when thor- 
oughly done. 


210 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BUOK. 


PINEAPPLE CREAM. 


Slice fine ripe pineapples and lay them in a bowl, with 
pulverized sugar strewn over them; in a few hours the 
sirup will have drawn, and makes a fine flavoring for ice- 
cream; add of it until the taste is sufficiently distinct ; 
and whether more sugar is needed must also be deter- 
mined by the person making the dessert. The fruit is 
sometimes chopped up and added, but there is a certain 
hardness about most pineapples that renders the way 
we recommend here preferable. 


ORANGE Icr. 


- Choose sour, high-flavored oranges, as sweet oranges 
make this dish not only a very expensive but a mawkish 
one likewise. To the juice of twelve oranges add that 
of two lemons, and grate in the rind of only one orange; 
add the beaten whites of six eggs, a gallon of water, and 
a pound and a half of white sugar. 


MPENUCS) i vicnectera aware tels 12 Lemouia 03. <2 yeaeeeeenes 
NV LOR a sce asta W ie ae Wie «tee 1 gal. | Sugar... 220. ee 13 Ibs. 
PrOMtMe. 57. sie ae's s aee 1 oz. Whitesof eggs... 5.5 6 


LEMON SHERBET. 


We are indebted to the Hast for this most refreshing 
of all delicacies during the burning heat of our American 
summers. Lemon is the fruit most commonly used for 
this purpose, and certainly the most appropriate. The 
simplest way of making is the best. When the lemons 
are fine and juicy, eight will be enough to flavor a gallon 
of water.. Rub the lemons till very soft; squeeze out 
the juice, and strain it into the water. A little flavor of 
the rind imparts richness, and may be given by grating 
immediately into the lemonade, or by peeling very thin 


Se ee 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 211 


the rinds of two for a gallon, and boiling them well in a 
pint of the water set aside for your gallon of sherbet. It 
should be strained after boiling five minutes; an ounce 
of gelatine, dissolved thoroughly and beaten into the sher- 
bet with the stiff foam from six whites of eggs, is said 
to prevent sherbet melting rapidly when taken from the 
freezer and exposed to the air. 

Lemons.. Juice of 8 or 12 large. | Lemons.. The grated rind of 2. 


Water... l-gal. Eggs..... Whites of 6. 
Sugar.... 14 Ibs. Gelatine.. 1 oz. 


PINEAPPLE SHERBET, 


One can of pineapples, one dozen lemons (the juice of 
all and rinds of six). Chop up the pineapple, squeeze 
the lemon-juice into it, and boil the rinds, thinly pared, 
in a pint of water, which must be deducted from the gal- 
lon of plain water that must go to this quantity of fruit. 
Try one pound and a quarter of white sugar; but if not 
sweet enough, add until a little too sweet, for freezing 
always takes off something in that way. When half- 
frozen, add the beaten whites of three eggs and one 
ounce of gelatine dissolved in a teacup of water. Freeze, 
beating thoroughly from time to time. 


Frozen TEA, 


Take as much fine-flavored tea as you choose, drawn in 
the usual way, and sweetened while it is hot; then give a 
dash of the lemon flavor by slicing up half of one very 
thin and adding it to the tea. Freeze as usual. Some 
persons find it more reviving on a hot day than any 
other sherbet. 

Tourt FRorttt. 

One gallon of cream, one can of peaches, one can of 

apricots, six lemons, six oranges, twelve bananas. Chop 


212 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


the peaches and apricots; add the juice of the lemons 
and oranges, with the pulp of three of each; whip the 
cream thoroughly, having first sweetened it to your taste, 
and stir into the fruit. Two pounds of sugar will proba- 
bly be about the quantity of sugar required. Freeze all 
together to a paste; then add the bananas, cutting them 
up into quarter-inch slices with a silver knife; stir them 
in lightly with a s¢lver spoon, and complete the freezing. 

‘This quantity makes two gallons when frozen. | 


CuRRANT Icr. 


To the strained juice of red currants, in the proportion 
of three quarts of water to one of juice, put one pound 
and a quarter of sugar and freeze. 


Currant JUICE 5... 92.04 00:6 1 qt. Sugar... sin se es eeiee 14 Ibs. 
WVSLER ose ce cece ees 3 qts. | Whites of eggs......... 3 
Gelatine Sesie ok 1 oz. 


GOOSBERRY-FOOL. 


Take two quarts of green gooseberries, wash off any 
mould on them with hot water, and pick off blossoms and 
stems; put them in a preserving-kettle with just enough 
water to cover them, and let the berries stew until they 
are tender, their color being best preserved by keeping 
the kettle uncovered; when they are soft, with the back 
of a large spoon press the pulp through a colander or 
sieve, and while this pulp is hot add to it two pounds of 
white sugar; when cool, stir into it either a quart of rich 
cream or boiled custard; mix this with the gooseberry 
pulp until they thoroughly combine. 

This cream must be served in a glass bowl, with whip- 
ped syllabub for a garnish. Cake is a proper accompani- 
ment for this dessert. 

The old English mode of preparing gooseberry - fool 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 213 





was to omit the cream or custard and substitute an ounce 
of butter stirred into the hot pulp at the same time that 
sugar was added. At the same time six eggs were beaten 
up and stirred raw into the pulp, when both were re- 
turned to the fire for a few minutes, until the eggs were 
cooked. When cold, a spoonful of spinach-juice was 
added to brighten the green color, and the dish was then 
ready to be sent to table. Besides cake, a glass of rich 
milk would be needed by most tastes for the perfecting 
of this dessert. 


Frozen Pirum Puppia. 


Make a custard of one quart of milk and the yolks of 
four eggs, with one cup and a half of white sugar; flavor 
with vanilla; seed and cut into small pieces three ounces 
of raisins; add three ounces each of citron and conserved 
cherries, cut small; mix with the fruit three ounces of 
grated chocolate; pour over these ingredients enough 
wine to cover well, and let them simmer all together until 
a thick paste is formed, stirring frequently; then add the 
custard to the fruit; also one. quart of cream sweetened 
with five ounces of sugar flavored with vanilla and whip- 
ped up light. Put this cream into the freezer, and when 
it begins to harden whip up the whites of the four eggs 
to a stiff froth, and stir in lightly. 


ee ae oe eee 1 qt. Cieam acces 14 3% 1 qt. 

BROUITIG oy fist os 58:8 « orees 8 02, Cons. cherries. . 3 02. 
CONAN si. oo ks saw oeis Orns POPS se tae ote 4 

Reais eaG c~ Ss ss cess 3 £ Ib, PV ARNEL <b ose « 2 teaspoonfuls. 


Bortep CusrTrarp. 


In winter custard takes the place of ice-cream, and 4 
handsome dessert seems incomplete without its presence. 
The most common mistake in preparing it is to use the 
whites of eggs, which ought always to be omitted. 


214 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


To one quart of fresh morning’s milk put a teacupful 
of white sugar, the yolks of four eggs, and fifteen drops 
of extract of vanilla (rose or almond); set the milk on to 
boil in a preserving-kettle; at the same time break your 
egos and beat the yolks persistently until the milk boils 
up, adding the sugar as soon as they seem rather light. 
The lighter the eggs are beaten the richer and thicker 
will be the custard. The moment the milk boils, lift it 
from the fire and add it gradually to the sugar and eggs 
until all is in; then return to the fire, and stir continu- 
ously until the custard has thickened and the white foam 
has disappeared from its surface. ‘This should not take 
more than five minutes. Empty them into a bowl; con- 
tinue to stir until you see that there is no sign of cur- 
dling, and then set aside to get cold. It is so essential 
to have it perfectly cold, that even in winter it is better | 
to make it the day before it is wanted. Dish in a ee 
bowl, and garnish with whipped syllabub. 


TRIFLE. 


The term trifle is applied to a bowl of boiled custard 
into which has been cut up several slices of stale sponge- 
cake; cut the cake into inch squares; heap them up in 
the bottom of the bowl, and pour over them a gill of 
white-wine; also intersperse with the cake thinly pared 
slices of citron; now nearly fill the bowl with custard, 
and top off with whipped syllabub, as usual; flavor with 
vanilla, No dish is more generally admired. 


Burnt CustTarp. 


_A bowl of boiled custard is said to be burnt when, in- 
stead of being garnished with syllabub, the whites of eggs 
left out in making it are whipped up until they stand 
alone, sweetened with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 215 


allowed to each egg and a flavoring of vanilla or lemon- 
juice. Pile up this méringue so as to cover the custard 
entirely, and by means of a shovel heated to a white 
heat, and held within an inch of the surface, brown and 
glaze it prettily, and you will have the dish known as 
“burnt custard,” and one that is deservedly popular. 

The fire for boiling custard should be a brisk one, as 
long standing over the fire will curdle almost any milk. 


BakED CUSTARD. 


One quart of fresh milk, four yolks of eggs, five ounces 
of sugar, fifteen drops of vanilla; beat up the yolks and 
sugar till very light; add the flavoring, and mix in the 
milk; then fill your custard-cups until they are within 
half an inch of being full; place the cups in a pan of 
lukewarm water, the water reaching half-way up their 
sides, and set the pan in a very moderately heated oven ; 
in twenty minutes try one by dipping a teaspoon into it, 
and if it cuts, it is done. 

Everything in baked custard depends upon the regularly 
heated slow oven. If made with nicety, it is the most 
delicate of all sweets; if cooked till it wheys, it is hardly 
fit to eat. 

If a richer custard is desired, twice as many eggs may 
be used; but the proportions given above are for persons 
who like their food good, but care not to be extravagant 
or lavish in the use of materials. A very small lump of 
butter may also be added, if one wants something specially 
rich. 

Banana Ice-cREAM. 

Take six ripe bananas; peel and slice them; put half 
a pound of sugar on the bananas, taking care to use a 
silver knife in cutting them up, as steel turns the fruit 
black ; let them stand two or three hours; provide a quart 


216 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


and a half of rich cream and a quart of milk; pour a part 
of the milk over half a box, or one ounce, of gelatine; let 
it soak an hour; heat the other part of the milk to boiling- 
point; stir it into the gelatine; take four eggs, beat the 
yolks and whites separately ; add a quarter of a pound 
of sugar to the yolks; stir this into the bananas after 
cooking the eggs with the milk and gelatine; pour the 
milk into the cream; mix all together, except the whites 
of the eggs, which must be slightly beaten, and added 
to the cream as you freeze it. If you use all milk instead 
of cream, add two more bananas. This is a delicious cream. 


BANANA CREAM. 


Peel the bananas, and mash the fruit to a smooth pulp. 
Allow equal quantities of fruit and cream, and to one quart 
of the mixture allow a quarter of a pound of sugar. Let 
no steel come in contact with the bananas, as it spoils the 
color. 

FRozEN PEAcuHES. 

Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe, soft peaches; sprinkle 
them with granulated sugar in the proportion of a quarter 
of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit; put them into 
a freezer, and freeze exactly as you would ice-cream. 
When sending them to table in a glass bowl, powder 
again thickly with powdered sugar. Canned peaches and 
all kinds of berries may be prepared in the same way. It 
is a pleasant addition to have at hand a supply of cold 
rich milk or <ream, sexved separately, in pitcher or bowl. - 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 217 


CHAPTER XVIII. 
JELLY, CHARLOTTE-RUSSE, ETC. 


Calf’s Foot Jelly.—Jelly without Eggs or Boiling.—Isinglass Jelly. 
—Lemonade Jelly.—Orange Jelly.—Fruit in Jelly.—Rock Cream. 
—Cream Jelly.—Jerusalem Cream.—Farina Jelly.—Blanc-mange, 
No. 1.— Blanc-mange, No. 2.— Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 1.— 
Chocolate Blanc-mange, No. 2.—Jelly without Wine.—Bavarian 
Cream.— A Pretty Supper-dish of Jelly.—To Make a ‘‘Hen’s 
Nest.” — Carrageen Moss Blanc-mange.—Chocolate Charlotte- 
Russe.—Apples with Jelly.—Ellie’s Eclaires.—Flummery.—Char- 
lotte-Russe.—Almond Blanc-mange. ; 


CatF’s Foor JELLY. 


Bort four feet that have been well cleaned and the 
hoofs taken off. When the feet are boiled to pieces, strain 
the liquor through a colander, and when cold, skim off all 
the grease and measure the jelly into a preserving-kettle, 
leaving behind the dregs which will be at the bottom. 
From four feet the yield should be about two quarts of 
jelly. Pour into it one quart of wine, the juice of six 
fresh lemons, strained from the seeds, one pound and a 
half of sugar, a little powdered mace or cinnamon, as 
well as the thinly-pared rinds of the six lemons. Wash 
eight eggs very clean, and whip up the whites to a froth; 
crush the shells and put them in for clearing also; set 
the kettle over a good brisk fire; stir until the jelly is 
melted, but do not touch it afterwards; when it boils to 
one side, leaving an opening where the jelly looks clear, 
and the dross accumulates on the other side, it is done ; 
remove the dross carefully, and be provided with a kettle 
of hot water, if you have a regular jelly-strainer, as is 

10 


i VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


desirable in every household; lift up the lid and fill the 
double lining with boiling water, to expedite the running 
through of the jelly. A square of scalded flannel laid across 
the mouth and held down by the top answers just as well 
for a bag as any other shape. Pour back what will run 
out in a thick, muddy stream at first, and keep returning 
the jelly to the strainer until it runs through perfectly 
clear; then leave it to_ drip, putting a cover all over, to 
keep out the dust; if you have not a jelly-strainer, im- 
provise one out of flannel, and suspend it between the 
backs of two chairs. 


JELLY wiTHouT Eaas or Borie. 


To one paper of Coxe’s Gelatine pour one pint and a 
half of cold water, the juice of three lemons, and the 
rinds pared thin. Let it stand so for an hour; then pour 
over it three pints of boiling water and one pint and a 
half of wine; add one pound and a half of loaf-sugar, 
strain through a napkin, and when cold it is ready for 
use. Allow it about twelve hours for hardening. 

This recipe does in an emergency, but is not recom- | 
mended as being equal to the others given. 


IsIncLAss JELLY. 


Take two ounces of Cooper’s Isinglass, break it up, 
wash it clean, and put it to soak in two quarts of cold 
water. Let it set for two or three hours, and then add 
to it two pounds of white sugar. Put in, for clearing, 
the whites of four eggs, beaten well, the juice of four 
lemons and their rinds, peeled very thin, also a stick of 
cinnamon, and half a dozen blades of mace. Stir all well 
together, and then put on the fire, and let it boil for 
twenty minutes, being careful not to stir it. When you 
think it is done add gently one quart of clear wine. 


ti =i 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 219 





Strain through a jelly-bag, but. take care not to shake it 
while the jelly is dripping, or it will certainly be muddy. 


LEMONADE JELLY. 


Take twelve lemons and pare off very thinly the rinds 
of six. Put these in one pint of boiling water, cover 
them, and let them steep while the other ingredients are 
being prepared. Rub the lemons and squeeze them dry. 
Pour one pint of cold water to the gelatine, let it soften 
for twenty minutes, and then, emptying it into a large 
bowl, pour over it one quart of boiling water, which should 
completely dissolve it. If this is not the case, put it over 
the fire until not a particle of unmelted gelatine is to be 
seen. Now strain the juice into it, and add the rinds and 
water in which they have been steeping, with two quarts 
of clear cold water. If all the water used in this recipe is 
clear there is no necessity for straining, as in other jellies. 
Set away in a cold place to stiffen. You can either let it 
jelly in a mass and break it up with a spoon, for encircling 
blanc-mange, or mould it in pretty shapes, and serve it 
with plain or whipped cream. This dish is new, simple, 
and greatly admired. 

To succeed in warm weather, either more gelatine must 
be added or the jelly set upon ice. All recipes in which 
gelatine is used are fo be understood as referring to cool 
weather. 


Miem0ns 2. 56. ls. os 12 NV BUT so aks ear ae rears 1 gallon. 
Rs onic 35, ts wryle's. a LA IDOe {GCN Gs eins see wine 2 boxes. 


ORANGE JELLY. 


Melt the gelatine by softening it in a teacupful of cold 
water, and then dissolve it by pouring on, after an inter- 
val of twenty minutes, three cupfuls of boiling water. 
Put the pound of sugar into the bottom of a bowl and 


220 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


strain upon it the juice from all the fruit, then add the 
melted gelatine, and stir all well together. Grate into it 
enough orange-peel to give a zest to the flavor; and if you 
still think the taste of orange has not been imparted with 
sufficient distinctness, peel two more oranges, pick out 
the seeds, slice them thin, and drop them into the jelly so 
that they will be distributed throughout the whole; if 
the jelly is moulded, let some pieces be in each mould. 


OOTAN GOs tao ngs eS! t natn ap 8 Lemons .:.c.. 2 eee 2 
DUVOD ss sere cas Farnese 1 Ib. | Gelatine. ooo... eee 1 box. 
Water. iiaen eee 2 qts 


FRUIT IN JELLY. 


The most skilful caterer can furnish no prettier dish 
for a party. Make two quarts of sparkling, amber-colored 
jelly by adding a little browned sugar to either of the 
recipes furnished in this book for gelatine jelly. Wet 
two jelly-moulds holding a quart each, and invert them, 
seeing that they are supported so as not to be overturned, 
and fill each of them half full of jelly. Set them in a 
cold place to harden as soon as possible. In an hour, or 
as soon as they are firm enough to support the weight, 
lay lightly on the jelly a few grapes and cherries, or any 
other pretty fruit of that sort. Let the fruit be fresh, if 
it can be procured, else taken from cans and drained free 
of sirup. Meanwhile, having kept a portion of the jelly 
warm in a pitcher near the fire, fill the moulds with it, and 
set them away until the jelly is perfectly firm and ready 
to turn out. It is always better to allow jelly to stand at 
least twelve hours before it is sent to table, although it 
may harden earlier under very favorable circumstances. 

N.B.—If a light-colored jelly is preferred, use white 
sugar, white wine and lemon only for seasoning, and the 
hue will be a delicate straw-color. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOUK, 221 


Rock CrEAM. 


One teacupful of boiled rice mashed to a paste, the 
whites of six eggs beaten stiff and sweetened with three 
heaping table-spoonfuls of sugar; add three table-spoon- 
fuls of sweet rich cream, and flavor with ten drops of ex- 
tract of rose or almond. Put into moulds as you would 
blanc-mange, and eat with cream or milk and preserves. 


CREAM JELLY. 


Of stock gotten from boiling hog’s or calf’s feet take 
one quart, every particle of grease being skimmed off. 
Put with it into a preserving-kettle one pint of rich 
sweet cream, and one pint of fresh milk. Melt all to- 
gether over the fire, but do not keep it there long enough 
to boil—only long enough to dissolve the stock; then add 
a teaspoonful of rose flavoring and enough poke-berry jelly 
to make it of a pretty, delicate pink. Have ready some 
blanc-mange moulds wetted with cold water, strain the 
jelly into them, and set away until firm. When wanted 
for the table turn out into a deep dessert-dish, and serve 
with whipped syllabub. It is extremely delicate in fla- 
vor, and quite an ornamental dish. Country house-keep- 
ers, who have more stock than they always know what 
to do with at pork-curing seasons, will be glad to know 
so desirable a way of utilizing it. 


JERUSALEM CREAM, 


One quart of cream, one-third of a box of gelatine, a 
cupful of sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of brandy ; dis- 
solve the gelatine in the brandy, then stir in the cream 
-. very gradually, set it in an oven until lukewarm, or stir 
it constantly over the fire; then pour it into moulds and 
turn it out like blanc-mange; eat it with plain cream or 


222 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


gelatine jelly. It is good diet in some cases of invalid- 
ism, where strong food cannot be taken. ; 


FARINA JELLY. 


Boil one quart of new milk; while boiling sprinkle in 
slowly a quarter of a pound of farina; continue the boil- 
ing from half an hour to an hour; season with a teacupful 
of sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla; when done, turn 
out into a mould and place it on the ice to stiffen. Serve 
it with whipped cream. 


Bianc-MANGE, No. 1. 


One ounce of isinglass or gelatine to a quart of sweet 
cream and a pint of new milk, sweetened to your taste; 
the gelatine having been softened by lying in cold water* — 
for a few minutes, add it to your cream and milk; put 
all on the fire to stay until thoroughly mixed and heated ; 
sweeten with a cup and a half of pulverized sugar, and 
flavor with a teaspoonful of the extract you prefer. Va- 
nilla, almond, or rose is peculiarly suitable. Since cream so 
readily turns sour, if you prefer you can melt the gelatine 
in a little water and stir it into the cream cold. If youpre- 
fer cooking, remember to wait until it is lukewarm before 
putting into the moulds, else the watery particles of gela- 
tine will rise to the top and spoil the looks and taste of 
the blanc-mange. Dip the moulds in cold water before put- 
ting the cream in them; blanc-mange will stiffen in cold 
weather in a few hours, but it is best to make it the day 
before you intend to use it. It keeps sweet much longer 
than most preparations of cream. 


_ * Old recipe says, ‘‘the isinglass having been dissolved the over- 
night in boiling water.” How much less trouble have modern house- 
keepers ! 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 223 


Bianc-MANGE, No. 2. 


Season one quart of rich cream with five ounces of white 
sugar and whip it toa stiff froth; pour one pint of cold 
water on half a box of gelatine, let it soak fifteen minutes, 
then simmer over embers until perfectly dissolved. When 
lukewarm pour the whipped cream slowly in, beating it 
all the time till stiff enough to drop from a spoon; flavor 
with vanilla or lemon, and put into moulds, as directed 
above. z 

CHocoLaTE Bianc-MANGE, No. 1. 

Boil two quarts of milk with half a pound of sugar 
(two teacupfuls will also give the proper amount); grate 
a quarter of a pound of Baker’s Chocolate, and mix it 
smooth in a little boiling water; as soon as the milk and 
chocolate boil add four table-spoonfuls of corn-starch 
stirred to a paste with a little cold milk. Let all boil to- 
gether for ten minutes longer, and when cooled till luke- 
warm put into moulds, having first. flavored with vanilla. 


CuocoLaTE Bianc-MANGE, No. 2. 


Two quarts of rich milk, four ounces of grated choco- 
late, three-quarters of a pound of white sugar, and two 
ounces of gelatine, which is the quantity contained in 
one box. Dissolve the gelatine in one pint of water; boil 
the milk, chocolate, and sugar together for three minutes, 
then add the gelatine and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 
and let it boil for five minutes ; pour into moulds. 


JELLY WITHOUT WINE. 


To two ounces of gelatine put half a gallon of water, a 

pound and a half of sugar (white or brown, according to 
the color desired), the whites of three eggs well beaten ; 
the juice and thinly-pared rinds of six lemons, with a 


224 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


teaspoonful of mace and a stick of cinnamon also, if the 
flavor is not objected to. Let the gelatine be well softened 
in part of the water, cold, then mix -everything together 
and boil until a clear place opens in the middle and the 
scum moves to one side. Drip through a flannel jelly-bag 
placed in a jelly-strainer, with the usual carefulness not to 
shake. 
BavVARIAN CREAM. 

Pour on half a box of gelatine a small cup of milk, and 
leave it in a bowl to stand until soft. Meanwhile make 
a quart of good custard, into which, while on the fire, put 
the softened gelatine. Take a good pint of cream fla- 
vored with wine and sugar as for syllabub, and as soon 
as the custard is cool and begins to stiffen whip the cream, 
putting it into the custard as fast as it froths, and have 
some one to beat it hard as you add the whipped cream, 
a spoonful at a time. The custard must be flavored mild-_ 
ly with vanilla. 

N.B.—The proportions of cream and custard may be 
reversed, if your dairy admits of the change. | 


A Pretry SUPPER-DISH OF JELLY. 


Fill a deep glass bowl half full of jelly; have as many 
small fish-moulds as will conveniently lie in it; fill them 
with blanc-mange ; when they are cold, and the jelly set, 
lay them on it as if going in different directions; put in 
a little more jelly, and let it get cold, to keep the fish in 
their places, then fill the dish so as to cover them. The 
jelly may be made either of gelatine or hog’s feet, very 
light-colored, and perfectly transparent. 


To MaKe a “ HEN’s Nzst.” 


Get five small eggs, make a hole at one end and empty 
the shells; fill them with blanc-mange ; when stiff and 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 225 


cold, take off the shells, pare the yellow rind very thin 
from six lemons, boil them in water till tender, then cut 
them in thin strips to resemble straw, and preserve them 


with sugar; fill a small deep dish half full of nice jelly; 


when it is set put the straw on in form of a nest, and 
lay the eggs in it. It is a beautiful dish for a dessert 
or supper. 


CARRAGEEN Moss BLANC-MANGE. 


Boil one handful of moss in a quart of new milk; flavor 
it with a cupful of white sugar and a few drops of va- 


nilla or rose extract, then strain it and put it into wetted 


moulds, where it will harden to a consistency like that of 
blanc-mange. 

Carrageen or Irish moss is a kind of lichen growing 
freely on the coast of-Ireland, and thought to have pe- 
culiarly strengthening virtues when joined with milk and 
made into food, besides having a most delicate and pleas- 
ant flavor of its own. It may be procured at any well- 
furnished drug-store. 


CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE-RUSSE, 


Half an ounce of Cooper’s Gelatine soaked in a very little 
cold water, three tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate rub- 
bed smooth in a little milk, half a cup of powdered sugar, 
four eggs, half a pound of sponge-cake, one pint of cream ; 
heat the cream to boiling, slowly stirring frequently ; add 
the sugar, chocolate, and gelatine, and when these are dis- 
solved add a spoonful at a time to the beaten yolks; set 
back in the saucepan of boiling water, and stir five min- 
utes till very hot, but do not let it boil; take it off, fla- 
vor, and whip or churn to a standing froth, adding the 
beaten whites towards the last. Line a mould with sponge- 
cake, fill with the mixture, and set on ice, a 

10* 


226 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


APPLES WITH JELLY. 


One dozen apples, pared and cored, one pound and a 
half of sugar. Put the apples on with water enough to 
cover them, and let them stew until they look as if they 
would break; then take them out and put the sugar into 
the same water; let the sirup come to a boil; put in the 
apples, and let them stew until done through and clear; 
then take them out, slice into the sirup one large lemon, 
and add an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold. 
water. Let the whole mix well and come to a boil; then 
pour upon the apples. The sirup will congeal. It is to 
be eaten cold, with cream. 


E.vuie’s EcLaire&s. 


Prepare a pound of sponge-cake made in the following 
proportions: one pound of sugar, one pound of eggs, 
weighed in the shell, and nine ounces of flour. Flavor 
with the juice and rind of a lemon, Bake in tin pie- 
plates. The cake should be not quite an inch thick after 
it has risen. Boil one quart of new milk; beat the yolks 
of four eggs, with four table-spoonfuls of white sugar. 
When the milk has boiled up once pour it boiling upon 
the beaten eggs, stirring rapidly all the time. When 
well mixed return to the fire. Of three light table-spoon- 
fuls of corn-starch make a paste with a little cold milk, 
which stir immediately into the custard on the fire. Let 
it cook until well thickened, stirring all the while. Take 
off the fire and flavor while hot with a teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Put a layer of this custard between two of the 
cakes. Make a chocolate icing for them of three table- 
spoonfuls of scraped chocolate, six table-spoonfuls of 
white sugar, two table-spoonfuls of sweet cream, and a 
very small piece of butter—say half an ounce. Let this 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 227 


icing simmer over the fire for a few minutes, when it can 
be immediately applied to the éclaires. While yet hot 
sprinkle over the top a coating of white granulated sugar. 
One pound of cake ought to make six ordinary pie-plate- 
fuls—enough, that is to say, for three éclaires—the thick- 
ness never being more than two cakes, with one layer of 
custard between. No dessert can be better. 


EFLUMMERY. 


Put the juice of one lemon and the rind of two to one 
quart of thick cream; sweeten to your taste (six ounces 
would suit most persons), and let it stand for half an 
hour, then wnisk it until it becomes thick ; add one ounce 
of gelatine softened in half a pint of water or cold milk, 
then heat over the fire until dissolved; strain it through 
a sieve, then beat all together for several minutes; then 
put the cream into one large or two small moulds, and 
when perfectly set turn out into a pretty dessert-dish and 
encircle with whipped syllabub. 


CHARLOTTE-RUSSE. 


Six whites of eggs, three ounces of sugar, one pint of 
rich cream, one-third of a box of gelatine melted in half 
a cup of milk, and half a teaspoonful extract of vanilla. 

Directions for Making the Cake for Lining Mould.— 
One pound of sugar, nine eggs, ten ounces of flour, rind 
and juice of one lemon. The eggs for the cream must be 
whisked until perfectly dry, the cream whipped, and only 
the froth lightly lifted off and added to the whites of 
egos. The gelatine must be soaked twenty minutes in 
cold sweet milk, then heated over the fire, stirring care- 
fully all the time to prevent burning; then add the sugar. 
When lukewarm stir rapidly into the egg and cream; 
lastly, drop in the vanilla, and then fill up a mould that 


228 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


has been previously lined with a thin layer of sponge- 
cake. 

This favorite dessert may be elegantly varied according 
to the dictate of taste. ‘The proportions given’ above 
should fill a one-pound cake-mould. By simply cutting 
the cake into strips, turning out the crust and inside alter- 
nately, the outer case will be prettily striped yellow and 
brown. | 

By half filling the mould with the cream, as directed 
above, and adding enough poke-berry jelly to the remain- 
der to impart a rose tint, and laying it on top, when cut, 
the appearance of the Charlotte-Russe is such as to make 
it seem too good to be eaten: in short, the very poetry 
of food. 

ALMOND BLANC-MANGE. 

One ounce of gelatine, two quarts of cream, one pound 
of almonds, weighed in the shell, two half-pint cupfuls 
of white sugar, nine peach-kernels or bitter-almonds; 
soak the gelatine in a little cold water till soft; then melt 
it thoroughly over the fire and mix with the cream ; last 
of all add the almonds, and then put into moulds. Pre- 
pare the almonds thus: scald them in boiling water, when 
the skins will easily come off ; then put them into a mar- 
ble mortar and beat to a paste, with a sprinkling of fine 
white sugar, and rose-water dropped in from time to time 
until they are ready to add to the cream. This prevents 
oiling. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 229 





CHAPTER XIX. 
PRESERVES, ETC. 


To Preserve Apples.—Apple Jeliy.—Blackberry Jam.— Beautiful 
Jelly Made from Pippin Apples.—Blackberry Preserves.—To Pre- 
serve Cherries.—Red-currant Jelly.—Fox-grape Jelly.— To Pre- 
serve Siberian Crab-apples.—To Preserve Cranberries. —Damson 
Preserves.—Sweetmeats of Citron or Cantaloupe Melons.—Green 
Gooseberries.—Greengage Plums.—Jelly.—Grape Preserves.—To 
Preserve Clingstone Peaches.—Peach Jam.—Quince Preserves,— 
Pear Preserves.— Raspberry Preserves.— Strawberry Preserves. 
—To Make Jelly out of Strawberry Acid.—Green Tomato Pre- 
serves.— Sweetmeats.— Pineapple Preserves.— To Preserve Or- 
anges Whole.—Orange Marmalade.—Quince Marmalade.—Green 
Sweetmeats.— Fig Preserves.— Quick Way of Preparing Water- 
melon Rind.—Canned Peaches.—Brandy Peaches. 


To PRESERVE APPLES: 


Perr the apples (pippins or wine-saps are best) the 
evening before they are to be preserved. Weigh the ap- 
ples and sugar, allowing three-quarters of a pound of the 
latter to one of the former, and put the sugar over the 
apples. Next morning drain the sirup from the apples 
and put it on in a preserving-kettle to boil. When hot 
drop in enough apples to cover the bottom of the kettle; 
when transparent take them off, spread them on dishes to 
cool and toughen a bit, and meanwhile let another set of 
apples be put into the kettle, and so continue lifting out 
and returning to the kettle until all of your apples are 
clear and done through. Flavor with fresh lemons, grat- 
ing off the rind into the sirup and squeezing in the juice. 
Allow one lemon to every two pounds of fruit. If you have 
not lemons at hand, a little mace imparts a very grateful 
flavor, or even a little ginger and nutmeg will answer. 


230 | VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





APPLE JELLY. 


Cut up your apples; put them in a kettle and cover 
with water; boil till thoroughly done; strain in a coarse 
bag; measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow a 
pound of sugar; put the juice on the stove without the 
sugar, and boil twenty minutes; while the juice is boiling 
heat the sugar in a pan inside the stove; after the juice 
has boiled twenty minutes add the sugar and stir only 
until dissolved; then take off, and pour into glasses ; cut 
papers out just to fit the inside of the glasses, dip them 
into brandy, place them on top of the jelly, and cover 
with close-fitting tin tops. 


BLACKBERRY JAM. 


See that the fruit is fresh, as the least acidity will bring 
to naught all of the preserver’s labor, and small fruits 
gathered in hot weather need particular care in this re- 
spect. After carefully picking out any bits of stem, 
trash, or leaves that may be adhering to your berries, 
weigh them, and to each pound of fruit add half a pound 
of nice brown sugar (extra C, say); put the berries on, 
however, by themselves, with a small cup of water to a 
large kettleful of fruit ; cook them, stirring frequently, 
until the fruit seems to be reduced to a solid mass almost ; 
then add the sugar, and half an hour’s longer cooking will 
be sufficient. Some persons add a little powdered ginger 
for flavoring, but more frequently they are left without 
seasoning, and are greatly liked in most families for puffs, 
at the tea-table, and for rolls. 


BEAUTIFUL JELLY MApE From Pippin APPLES. 


Pare, core, and drop the pieces of apple into cold water 
as you get them ready; allow just as much water as will 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 231 


serve to stew them without burning or sticking to the 
kettle ; do not let them remain on the fire any longer than 
is necessary to cook them tender; strain clear through 
a coarse flannel bag, without squeezing or shaking even, 
if it can be helped; pare the rinds from two lemons to 
five pounds of apples, and boil them with the apples be- 
fore they are strained, the juice also being squeezed into 
them. ‘To each pint of apple-juice allow three-quarters 
of a pound of cracked loaf-sugar, or other that you know 
to be pure; put them together in a kettle on a charcoal 
furnace, seeing that the fire burns briskly from the very 
first; boil fast for twenty minutes, and then put into 
glasses, dropping a little of the jelly into each glass, so 
as to heat it gradually and prevent breakage. The re- 
sult is a sparklingly clear and beautiful jelly. 


BLACKBERRY PRESERVES 


Differ from jam in having the proportion of sugar in- 
creased to three-quarters of a pound to one of fruit. Then 
the berries are left whole as much as possible, the sugar 
put on at once when the preserves are set to boil, and 
only one hour allowed for the whole process, while four 
should be allowed for jam. 


To PRESERVE CHERRIES. 


If one wishes a pretty preserve for an ornamental dish 
choose the wax or carnation cherry. Do not seed them, 
or even pull off their short stems, for, if nicely done, they 
will not shrink and be so transparent that the stone can 
be seen through the skin. Allow a pound of best white 
sugar to a pound of fruit; make a sirup of one pint of 
water to a pound of sugar; when boiled and skimmed 
clear add as many cherries as can cook at one time with- 
out being crowded; when the first parcel has been in 


= 


232 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


about twenty minutes lift them out with a perforated 
ladle and spread on dishes to cool; put in others, and so 
continue to change them about, lifting out some and re- 
turning others to the kettle, until all are equally and suf- 
ficiently done; then fill with them small glass jars, see 
that the sirup covers them completely, and seal up, after 
covering the surface of the preserves with papers cut to 
fit, and dipped in brandy. In this way both mould and 
fermentation are hindered. If finely flavored but plain 
preserves are desired for filling pies and using on the 
tea-table, select the high-flavored, tart morello cherry, or 
the red cluster, which is equally good to the taste and 
much more pleasing to the eye. Remove carefully every 
seed, but take good care of the juice that will flow very 
' freely during the seeding process. Weigh out a pound 
of sugar (A or extra C will do) to every pound of fruit; 
place them in a china bowl, in layers, and let them so re- 
main for two hours, to draw out the sirup, so that no water 
at all need be used; then drain off the sirup and put it 
in your preserving-kettle to boil for fifteen minutes before 
the cherries are added ; stew them together until the cher- 
ries are clear; then put them up in glass jars, but do not 
seal finally the first day, for if the cherries rise to the top 
of the sirup you may conclude that more cooking is 
needed, and return them to the kettle for another boil- 
ing of twenty minutes. Expose to the sun all your pre- 
serves of small fruit for several weeks after they are 
made; and then, if you have no dark closet in which to 
store them, wrap each jar in a piece of thick, dark paper, 
so that light will be excluded from them. 


RED-CURRANT JELLY. 


This is the best of all jellies for use with meats, such 
as mutton, venison, or ducks. Jelly-making is one of the 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 233 





nicest of processes, and if the house-keeper is not scru- 
pulously attentive to small precautions mortifying failure 
is apt to result. Choose dry, clear weather to work in, 
and, if possible, let the whole process be gotten through 
with in one day. The least tendency to fermentation pre- 
vents fruit from forming jelly, and sugar must be pure 
to insure success. It is better not to attempt more than 
five or six pounds at once, as a larger quantity requires 
a longer time for boiling than that prescribed, and every 
element of uncertainty increases the difficulty of attain- 
ing to an unvarying result. Strip the currants from their 
stalks, and put them in a porcelain-lined or bell-metal 
kettle with the least drop of water, to prevent their burn- 
ing before the juice begins to come; mash them gently 
with a wooden mallet so as not to break the seeds, and 
just as soon as the fruit is heated through, and the juice 
freed, turn them into a flannel, or coarse, porous linen 
bag, and let the juice drip into a china bowl; measure 
the juice, and to one pint allow three-quarters of a pound 
of best white sugar; put them on the fire (it must be a 
brisk one), and stir only enough to blend the sugar well 
with the juice; have a watch or clock at hand, and from 
the minute it comes to a boil allow twenty more, and it 
should be firm jelly. If you want your currant jelly to be 
of a bright red color, gather the fruit before it is entirely 
ripe, which in Virginia is apt to be the last week in June. 

Another mode of making currant jelly successfully is 
to put the juice on to boil ten minutes alone, the sugar, 
meanwhile, being put into a slack oven, where it may be 
dried and heated without being burnt or discolored. As 
it must be hot, it will not check boiling, when added to 
the juice, for more than two minutes, and in ten minutes’ 
boiling afterward the jelly will be firm. 

The nicest and most convenient way of putting up such 


x 


204 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


jellies is in cheap tumblers, that may be bought with 
tight tops already fitted to them. Always remember, 
though, to put in a close-lying brandied paper imme- 
diately over the jelly. 


Fox-GRAPE JELLY. 


Currants are not plentiful every year, or it may be in- 
convenient in some way to have jelly made while they 
are in season. The very best substitute that can be found 
is the fox-grape. Beautiful jelly is made of them at 
every stage. Some prefer them green, from their similar- 
ity of flavor at that time to the gooseberry. If so, they 
should be gathered in July. Later, when there is just a 
blush of color on one side of the grapes, if the juice is 
expressed the result is jelly of the Joveliest pink hue; later 
on the tint is a bright crimson. Just before frost the color 
is arich garnet. At all times the flavor is fine and tart. 

The juice may be obtained by putting the grapes (after 
they have been stripped from their stems) in a tall stone 
jar, and setting that inside a pot of warm water that 
must be gradually brought to a boil, and kept boiling 
around it until the skins of the grapes are well broken 
and the juice flows freely. Stir from time to time with 
a wooden spoon. For clear, transparent jelly use only 
juice that has dripped without squeezing the bag. To 
avoid waste, after all has been used that would drip clear 
squeeze every particle that will come afterward and make 
a more cloudy jelly, that will answer very well for jelly- 
cake and other inferior uses. Or it may be added to the 
pulp rejected from the first jelly, and made into a ser- 
viceable jam for family use, by adding half a pound of 
sugar to every pint of the mixture, and cooking down till 
very thick. 'To one pint of clear juice for fine jelly put 
three-quarters of a pound of cracked loaf-sugar. 


e 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 235 


To PRESERVE SIBERIAN CRAB-APPLES. 


These beautiful little apples, hardly larger than the 
finest cherries, make a highly flavored preserve and ex- 
quisitely colored jelly. Take a peck of the apples, with 
their stems still attached, weigh them, and allow three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar to one of fruit; put the ap- 
ples on in enough water almost to cover them, and let 
them parboil; then take out the apples and spread them 
on dishes to cool; add the sugar to the water, with the 
thinly-pared rind of four lemons and their strained juice; 
boil and skim the sirup; return the apples to it one half 
at a time, and let them all simmer till clear and well 
done; then put them into self-sealing glass jars, pour in 
_ the sirup until they are well covered, when they may be 
immediately put away. The sirup left in the kettle may 
be boiled down until it jellies, and it is uncommonly good 
and beautiful. 


To PRESERVE CRANBERRIES. 


Cranberries are kept perfectly well through the win- 
ter in their fresh state by simply filling a jar two-thirds 
full of them, then placing upon them an inverted china 
plate, and weighing it down with a clean, heavy stone. 
Fill the jar up to the brim with pure water, and take 
from them as many as you will use in two or three weeks; 
stew them rapidly in a little water, allowing three pounds 
of white sugar to four pounds of the fruit; keep the cran- 
berries covered all the while, and in from fifteen to twen- 
ty minutes they will be sufficiently tender and clear, pre- 
serving also their charming color. They are seen so uni- 
versally nowadays as a sauce for turkey that one is apt to 
forget what a delicious tart or pudding may likewise be 
made of them preserved. Some persons put pound to 


236 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


pound of sugar and fruit, but for our own taste we prefer 
the proportions given above. 

Be particular, in preparing cranberries for table use, 
not to let them come in contact with tin or pewter, else 
the color will be injured. 


Damson PRESERVES. 


This fruit is increasingly popular for canning and pre- 
serving, and a variety has recently been introduced of 
the same color, when ripe, as the greengage plum, and 
rivalling it in flavor. There is a diversity of taste, to be- 
gin with, about which the house-keeper must consult those 
for whom she provides before commencing her preserves, 
viz., as to whether the seeds must be discarded, in part or 
in whole. Many assert that they are needed to give 
flavor, while others object to them as an unmitigated 
nuisance. ‘There is a stage of ripeness at which the dam- 
son arrives when the seed may be taken out with a pen- 
knife clean, and in gathering or purchasing them it is 
well to see if such is the case. Again, when the sugar 
and whole damsons are put on to boil quantities of the 
seed will rise to the surface, and may be skimmed off by 
a watchful and industrious person, so that few will be left 
to annoy, and maybe enough to flavor, and thus strike a 
happy mean as to taste, but the writer has always pre- 
ferred to sit down and patiently seed. Three-quarters of 
a pound of sugar, and brown at that—extra C is very 
nice —has been found to keep damsons perfectly, and 
sweeten them sufficiently. Two hours is about enough 
time to allow for their cooking, and they may be put away 
in large jars without danger of spoiling. 

Damsons may also be utilized by making out of them 
jam, jelly, and wine, by the usual processes, and with an 
ordinary amount of sugar. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 237 


—eo 


SWEETMEATS OF CITRON OR CANTALOUPE MELONS. 


In order to green the melons, which is the first part of 
the process, put them in a skillet and cover them with 
grape or collard leaves, then put in enough water to cover 
all, and lay on the top a small flannel bag of ashes. Put 
the skillet on the fire, and let its contents simmer slowly 
till the melons appear quite done. This sweetmeat is , 
made most economically at the approach of frost, when 
those small ones make the prettiest which could not have 
time to ripen. 

But, before greening, the melons, whether they be of 
small or middling size, must be thrown into strong salt- 
and-water as soon as they are pulled from the vine; there 
let them stand three or four days; then cut off the outer 
rind as thin as possible, and green. 

When they are perfectly green and tender open them 
and scrape out the seed and pulp; let the small ones be 
preserved whole, but the large ones may be cut into any 
form that fancy may direct. Throw them into cold water, 
changing it three or four times a day, until they become 
crisp and the salt is entirely taken out of them. Mean- 
while, have the sirup thus prepared: for every pound of 
melon allow three ounces of best white ginger and two 
crab -apples—if small, three; the ginger must be boiled 
gently four hours, then pared and sliced thin. The weight 
of melons, apples, and ginger all together must be taken 
in sugar for the sirup; after it is clarified add the ap- 
ples, ginger, and melons, letting them boil ten minutes ; 
have the melons well dried, and then put them to the 
sirup; let them boil ten minutes more; let them stand 
for some days and boil them up again; this must be re- 
peated three or four times till they look clear; unless they 
are made pretty tender in greening they will not look so, 


238 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


and are apt to shrivel when put into the sirup. The last 
time they are boiled the sirup must be boiled to candy 
height ; if it does not cover them, more must be made; 
after they are cold a few drops of the essence of lemon 
mixed with the sirup gives them much of a citron flavor ; 
if that cannot be had, the thin peel of lemon boiled in 
the sirup will have the effect. They are better a twelve- 
month after making, but may be used in two or three 
months. 
GREEN GOOSEBERRIES 
Make the most delicious of all tarts. Rub off the dried 
blossoms and stems, gathering the berries when they have 
attained their growth but are still unripe. ‘To one pound 
of gooseberries allow one pound of white sugar; make a 
sirup of the sugar with half a pint of water to five pounds 
of fruit, and stew them together until the berries are done 
through, but still whole ; half an hour will be time enough 
to allow, and the color is best preserved by keeping the 
fruit uncovered. For winter use, fill quart self-sealing 
bottles that have been scalded just before the fruit is put 
into them with water directly from the kettle; fill to the 
very brim, seal up tight, and either wrap in thick paper 
or keep on a shelf in a. dark closet. Old-fashioned house- 
keepers used to put gooseberries away in clean, dry black 
glass bottles, filling them up with the raw fruit fresh from 
the garden. If in a few days the berries were found to 
be shrunken, more were added, the cork driven in tight 
and sealed, and the bottle stored in a cellar. This plan 
is still followed with success, and gooseberry tart is not 
to be despised even amid the dainties of the Christmas 
board. 
GREENGAGE PLuMs 

Make tarts next to gooseberry in excellence, if gathered 
while green, the seeds taken out with a penknife, and 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. | 239 


stewed for fifteen minutes, with a pound of sugar allowed 
to every pound of fruit. These may also be put up for 
winter use in self-sealing cans, just as gooseberries are. 

A delightful jam is furnished by stewing the seeded 
fruit alone for twenty minutes, then adding half a pound 
of sugar to each pound of plums, and cooking them to- 
gether until they are as thick a jam as you like. 

If you wish to make of them an ornamental preserve, 
prick each plum through with a coarse needle, and pro- 
ceed exactly as in the directions for preserving wax-cher- 
ries previously given in this book. | 


JELLY. 


For whatever jelly you purpose to make from berries 
the directions are identical. If you would have it bright 
and clear, drip, and do not squeeze, juice through a flan- 
nel bag. Let the fruit be perfectly fresh and sweet, and 
do not let it cook a moment longer than necessary in get- 
ting the berries ready to drip. A good plan is to squeeze 
the juice first out of the raw berries, and then let it drip 
and clarify before proceeding to make the jelly. A con- 
venient arrangement for straining juice during a whole 
season is to take an empty barrel and place in the bot- 
tom of it a bowl in which to catch drippings. Buy a 
yard of strong, coarse flannel, and sew it to a hoop fitting 
the mouth of the barrel, using all available dexterity in 
making it fit and assume the desirable bag-like shape. 
You will find it answer admirably, and easy enough to 
rinse out and dry each time, in readiness for a new parcel 
of fruit, whether for jelly or drink. Blackberry jelly is 
most desirable in a family where there are children, for 
it has really medicinal qualities, and is always accepta- 
ble to the little creatures. Strawberry jelly is of a rich 
gamet color, and may be made the nearest approach to 


240 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


guava jelly, which it closely resembles in taste. Rasp- 
berry jelly is a delightful constituent of “ floating-island” 
and other creams; therefore most useful to have among 
one’s stores. The diligent house-keeper, then, will not 
neglect to lay in supplies of this sort. 


GRAPE PRESERVES. 


The steady increase of late in attention given to grape 
culture leads us more and more to consider all the uses 
to which the fruit may be put. So far as we have seen 
it used as a preserve, the Catawba is the most delicious 
in taste and the prettiest in color. Jelly made of that 
variety is inferior to none of any fruit, the color being a 
bright amber. Three-quarters of a pound of pure white 
sugar is sufficient to put to a pint of juice. The trouble 
about the preserves is getting rid of the seeds, which is 
managed pretty well by scalding the grapes and then put- 
ting them into an inverted sieve (not too many at a time), 
rubbing them and shaking the sieve, so that the seeds will 
pass through, while the pulp and skins remain behind. 
Some very patient people seed them raw with the sharp 
point of a penknife, and others, again, disregard the an- 
noyance and preserve seeds and all, the flavor being so 
uncommonly fine as to lead them to overlook a small 
drawback. In either case allow three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar to one of fruit, unless you prefer to cook it down 
to a jam, when half a pound of one is enough to go with 
a pound of the other. Sugar always goes farther in pre- 
serving if the fruit is cooked alone for a while, and the 
sugar added later. 


To PRESERVE CLINGSTONE PEACHES. 


For a pink preserve choose the finest white Heath va- 
riety, but for a rich, gold-colored one the juicy yellow 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 241 


sort. Pare the peaches nicely, and, if skilful enough in 
the use of a penknife, simply extract the stone and leave 
them whole; otherwise halve them. Have their weight. . 
of pounded sugar and sprinkle it over them as they are 
put into a china bowl. If you like the flavor, crack a few 
stones, take the kernels, blanch them as you would al- 
monds, and scatter them through the peaches. Let them 
stand two or three hours. Put them in a kettle, add a 
little water, and let the peaches remain until thoroughly 
scalded. Take them out with a ladle, draining off the 
sirup; should there not be enough to cover the peaches, 
add a little water. Boil and skim the sirup, return the 
fruit, and simmer them gently until they are clear. 

N.B.~If well cooked, three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar to the pound will keep peaches, and be even bet- 
ter, as the preserve is then less cloying and retains more 
of the flavor of the fruit. 


Pracu Jam. 


By all means choose yellow, soft peaches, and use white 
sugar, when the jam will be of a beautiful golden color. 
Scald and mash the fruit well, after peeling and cutting 
it up small, as it will greatly expedite matters. This is 
the most trying of all preserves to make, on account of 
the incessant spitting and spattering, unless the fire is 
kept very low all the time; and even then there is no rest 
from ceaseless stirring and watching. But, for all that, 
it is so good that few house-keepers spare themselves the 
trouble. Prepare for the conflict by providing yourself 
with a pair of very long gauntlets and an equally formi- 
dable stirrer, which should be a long wooden paddle, and 
then stand as far off as you can. Those who have often- 
est performed the task will be the least apt to laugh at 
these directions as absurd. We hear that stirrers such as 

11 


242 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


we speak of may be found at furnishing stores, with han- 
dles inserted at right-angles. If so, by all means provide 
yourself with one. Stir and cook the mashed fruit alone 
for one hour, then add the sugar in the proportion of half 
a pound to a pound, and in another hour, unless you have 
a large kettleful, the task should be done. If the fruit is 
not mashed previously and you attempt over ten pounds 
at once, we have seen persons toil over a sputtering kettle 
for half a day and come off with well-burnt hands besides. 


QUINCE PRESERVES. 


Yearly this fruit seems to be growing in popular esti- 
mation, so that we may hope to see it improved by culti- 
vation. The wormy, defective character of most in mar- 
ket calls for the utmost exercise of patience on the part of 
the house-keeper. Unlike almost every other fruit, the 
quince is unfit to preserve when freshly plucked, and 
must be laid by on shelves to mellow and become fra- 
grant. Wipe them off clean, and put them whole into a 
large kettle, where they must be parboiled in plenty of 
water and kept covered over. When sufficiently softened 
take the quinces out and set them where they will cool as 
fast as possible. Pare and core them nicely. Have some 
whole and some in slices. Put them back into a portion 
of the water in which they were parboiled and cook them 
until you can pass a straw through them with ease; then 
put them on dishes to cool and acquire some firmness. 
Take as much of the water in which they were boiled 
as you think will be sufficient to cover them when the 
sugar is added, and make a sirup of one pound of sugar 
to one pound of fruit; boil it, and when clarified put in 
as many of the quinces as can cook at once without being 
crowded and broken to pieces. Cover for a while with a 
large plate (it makes them light-colored) and let them 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 243 


boil slowly until they are clear. Every now and then 
take them out of the kettle and lay them singly on dishes 
to cool, while other pieces take their place in the kettle ; 
by-and-by put them back, to cook more, while the others 
cool, and so exchange until all are done equally and be- 
come of a beautiful red hue. By covering the kettle 
with a lid they remain yellow, but are really not nearly 
so pretty a preserve. Let the sirup boil a while after the 
quinces are taken out of it, and most likely it will jelly 
and look beautiful, filling the place of the cores in those 
that were left whole. 


PEAR PRESERVES. 


One pound of fruit, one pound of sugar; pare off the 
peelings thin. Make a nice sirup of nearly one pint of 
water and one pound of sugar, and when clarified by boil- 
ing and skimming put in the pears and stew gently until 
clear. Choose rather pears like the Sickle for preserving, 
both on account of the flavor and size. A nice way is to 
stick a clove in the blossom end of each pear, for this 
fruit seems to require some extraneous flavor to bring out 
its own piquancy. Another acceptable addition to pear 
preserves may be found instead by adding the juice and 
thinly-pared rind of one lemon to each five pounds of the 
fruit. If pears are hard and tough parboil them till ten- 
der before beginning to preserve, and from the same 
water take what you need for making their sirup. 

If you can procure only large pears to preserve cut 
them into halves, or even slices, so that they can get done 
more quickly, and lose nothing in appearance either. 


RASPBERRY PRESERVES. 


The red Antwerp raspberry is deliciously fragrant, and 
makes a pretty preserve by strewing a pound of sugar 


244 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


through a pound of berries, leaving them for two hours 
to draw juice, then putting them on in a preserving-pan 
over a brisk fire and letting them boil rapidly for just 
twenty minutes. Put them hot into half-pint glasses, 
cover first with brandy-papers, shut down the lid close, 
and they will keep nicely. 

For jam allow only half as much sugar as fruit. Cook 
the fruit half an hour alone, and half an hour after the 
two are combined, and there is no jam superior to it. 
Some put a third part of the fruit in red currants, and re- 
gard it as an improvement to raspberry jam. The Eng- 
lish, so-called, or Philadelphia purple raspberry, are also 
of very fine flavor when made into either jam or preserves 
by the above directions. 


STRAWBERRY PRESERVES. 


Even while the fresh fruit may be had this preserve 
is in request. ‘There are several ways of making it, but 
none, unfortunately, whereby the strawberry retains its 
lovely natural color. 

A mistake often made is to put off preserving straw- 
berries till the end of the season, while those that ripen 
in the early part of it are always larger and finer. Gather 
them, if possible, fresh from the vines, cap them, weigh 
them, and put them into a bowl, with an equal weight of 
loaf-sugar distributed through the fruit in layers. After 
standing a few hours plenty of sirup will have formed ; 
the bowl may be emptied into a preserving-kettle, and 
in twenty minutes, boiling rapidly, the preserves will be 
sufficiently done to keep, and of a light garnet color. Use 
self-sealing cans, if you have them; but if not, put the 
strawberries into glass tumblers; lay brandy-papers close 
upon the top; and while the glasses are still hot cut out 
circular papers an inch larger in diameter than the tum- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 245 





_blers they are meant to cover; wet the edges well with 
white of egg, press and hold them down well with your 
hand until they stick fast, and you will have no trouble 
with fermentation. For a common preserve you can put 
eight quarts of capped strawberries into a bowl with six 
pounds of fair brown sugar, and let them set all night. 
Early in the morning put them on the fire to preserve, 
and let them cook together for an hour; then take the 
fruit out with a ladle, and let the sirup cook fifteen min- 
utes longer. Pour it over the strawberries, and put away 
in stone jars not holding overa quart. If you prefer jam 
only cook the same proportion of fruit and berries just 
given for a much longer time, until the bulk is reduced 
one-half and the desired stiffness has been obtained. 
Strawberry jam makes an excellent puff. 


To MaKkE JELLY OUT OF STRAWBERRY ACID. 


Dissolve one ounce of isinglass in as small a quantity 
of water as possible; strain a bottle of the acid (for which 
the recipe is given in the proper place) and warm it over 
a vessel of hot water; add the isinglass to the warmed 
acid, stir and mix well together, and put the whole into 
a blanc-mange mould that has been dipped in cold water. 
If the weather be very warm allow one ounce and a half 
of isinglass or gelatine, which amounts to the same thing, 
to a pint-bottle of the acid. : 

Raspberry, blackberry, or currant acid may be stiffened 
in the same way; so that jelly can be made at any season 
of the year, if you have them among your stores, as is to 
be recommended. 


GREEN ToMAToO PRESERVES. 


Take one peck of green tomatoes, peel, after scalding 
them in hot water, and cut them up into thin slices; slice 


246 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


also six fine lemons, without removing the skins, but care- 
fully extracting every seed. To this quantity of tomato 
put six pounds of fair brown sugar and one table-spoon- 
ful of white ginger ground fine. Taking care to skim off 
all the froth that rises to the surface, boil until the pre- 
serve seems thoroughly cooked. ‘The time required will 
be about two hours. One table-spoonful of Spears’s Pre- 
serving Fluid added ten minutes before removal from the 
fire will insure its preservation, even in a large jar, with- 
out especial care as to sealing it up very securely, and 
no foreign taste will be perceptible. 


SWEETMEATS. 


We generally term sweetmeats such as are made in imi- 
tation of West India preserves, and mostly from Southern 
or exotic fruits. 


PINEAPPLE PRESERVES. 


Grate the pineapple, and to one pound of it allow half 
a pound of sugar; sprinkle the sugar over the pineapple, © 
and let it stand so for a few hours; then put it in the ket- 
tle and boil it gently for three-quarters of an hour; or 
you can slice it as for the table, and, allowing three-quar- 
ters of a pound of sugar to one of fruit, simmer them to- 
gether until the pineapple looks transparent. ‘This sweet- 
meat is a pleasant accompaniment to vanilla ice-cream. 


To PRESERVE ORANGES WHOLE. 


Take as many oranges as you wish to preserve and cut 
a hole in one of them large enough to enable you to scoop 
out the inside; put in cold water three days to soak, 
changing the water each day; then boil slowly until 
the bitter is extracted, changing the water every half-hour 
till it no longer tastes bitter. To one pound of fruit put 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 247 


two pounds of sugar; clarify the sugar by adding two 
beaten whites of egg after you have made a rich sirup, 
in the proportion of a pint of water to each two pounds 
of sugar, which must be white, of the best quality. When 
the sirup is clear drop the oranges in, and boil until trans- 
parent. They will take about four hours to boil, if the 
fire is well kept up. 

The juice may be expressed from the inside of the 
oranges, measured, strained, and made into a jelly that 
will make a beautiful addition to the orange sweetmeats, 
or can be put away in glasses separately. 


ORANGE MARMALADE, 


Take of high-flavored sour oranges half their weight 
in sugar; squeeze the juice through a sieve coarse enough 
to allow some of the pulp to pass through as well, but 
none of the seeds or white inner skin; grate in as much 
of the yellow rind as will flavor the marmalade richly; 
and if, after you have mixed the sugar with the fruit, it 
seems insipid, add the juice of lemon until the proper 
tartness is acquired. Cook for two hours, stirring all the 
time, and put away in glasses or small wooden boxes lined 
with thin white paper. 


QuIncE MARMALADE. 


This is a most useful sweetmeat, and easily made. Take 
the small pieces rejected from your quince preserves, such 
as may be cut from inferior, half-rotten fruit, parboil them, 
pour off nearly all the water, mash up to a jam, and cook 
over a gentle fire for several hours, stirring all the while; 
when nearly stiff add the sugar, which must be half the 
weight of the fruit before it began to cook; cook until 
it is almost too stiff to stir, and then pack away in cups, 
small moulds, little wooden boxes lined with paper, or 


248 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


whatever vessel you may find convenient; for it never 
spoils, and will keep and be good indefinitely. It can 
be cut into bits, for garnishing puddings, pies, etc., or cut 
into little squares, dipped in sugar, thus becoming a de- 
licious confection. 


GREEN SWEETMEATS. 


Watermelon-rind preserves, when cut into leaves, wreaths 
of flowers, harps—in short, all sorts of fanciful devices— 
look almost too good to be eaten; and yet they are very 
good—strangely good—considering whence they come, 
and how much manipulation is needed to perfect them. 
The figures are traced first with a pencil, and then cut 
out with a sharp pen-knife, so that there is a dark green 
tracery of the outer rind upon a transparent, whitish- 
green background. Like all the slower, more tedious 
processes of house -keeping, this artistic fashioning of 
melon-rinds has fallen into disuse; but at least the mem- 
ory of such industry and skill combined deserves men- 
tion, even where we care not to imitate. The prettiest 
we see now are copies from nature of various leaves; and 
if a party of ingenious young people were to set them- 
selves to work, after enjoying a fine watermelon, to pre- 
sent the mistress of the house with some such specimen 
of skill, it would not be the meanest use to which an 
artist has been turned. 


Fig PRESERVES. 


In the more northerly of the Southern States fig-bushes 


frequently bear fruit that cannot reach perfection before 
frost. Such immature fruit may be gathered when frost 
threatens, and thus utilized. Dip them in hot lye, as 
you do brandy peaches, and wipe off with a dry cloth, so 
as to leave the skin smooth. Weigh the figs, and allow 


A 
a 
= 
i to « F 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 249 


* pound for pound of white sugar; make a sirup of a pint 
of water to a pound of sugar, seasoning with a teaspoon- 
ful of pure extract of lemon; and when it has boiled clear 
and been well skimmed put in the figs, and let them sim- 
mer gently until transparent, when they come legitimately 
under the category of green sweetmeats. 


Quick Way oF PREPARING WATERMELON-RIND. 


Scrape young and tender rinds on both sides. ‘To one 
pound of rind add one ounce of alum; let them boil 
together slowly, with water enough to cover them, until 
they become yellow; then put them into a vessel of cold 
water, where they must remain a short while; then put 
them on the fire again, with weak vinegar and water mixed 
sufficient to cover them. After they become green pour 
them into cold water again, letting them stand ten or fif- 
teen minutes—the exact length of time is not important. 
To every pound of rind put nearly two pounds of loaf- 
sugar (some persons put one pound and a half) and one 
pint of water. If there is not water enough to cover with 
sirup and keep the rind from burning add more. When 
the sirup is rich and clear the sweetmeats will be beauti- 
fully green and transparent. For flavoring put in white 
ginger, with the strained juice of one lemon and its thinly- 
pared rind, to each pound of preserve; or, if you prefer, 
use two blades of mace and a teaspoonful of pure extract 
of lemon instead. 


CANNED PEACHES. 


To one pound of peaches allow half a pound of sugar ; 
to six pounds of sugar add half a tumbler of water; put 
in the kettle a layer of sugar and one of peaches until the 
whole of both are in. Wash about eight peach-leaves, tie 
them up and put into the kettle, remembering to take them 

LEE 


250 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


out when you begin to fill up the jars. Let the sugared 
fruit remain on the range, but away from the fire, until 
upon tipping the vessel to one side you can see some 
liquid; then fill the jars, taking them out of hot water, 
into which they were put when cold, remaining until it 
was made to boil around them. In this way you will find 
out if the glass has been properly annealed; for we con- 
sider glass jars with stoppers screwing down upon india- 
rubber rings as the best for canning fruit in families. 
They should be kept in a dark closet; and although some- 
what more expensive than tin in the first instance, are 
much nicer, and keep for years with careful usage. 

Fruit must be of fine flavor, and ripe, though not soft, 
to make nice canned fruit. Stump the World, Honest 
Johns, and Mixens give greater satisfaction than any 
other varieties of which we know. ‘The White Heath 
is not good for canning. Peaches should be thrown into 
cold water as they are peeled, to prevent a yellow crust. 

Apricots, greengage and egg plums are next in value 
to the peach as canning fruits. 


BRANDY PEACHES. 


Pare nice, firm, white peaches as thinly as possible. 
To a pound of fruit allow half a pound of white cut 
loaf-sugar for the formation of sirup. To six pounds of 
sugar add a pint and a half of water; boil for ten min- 
utes, then measure. ‘To each pint of sirup add one pint 
of white brandy; do this while the liquid is boiling hot, 
or else it may jelly or candy. Cook the first separately, 
using one pound and a half of sugar to six pounds of fruit, 
or rather more, if the fruit is very high-flavored. Put 
only enough of the fruit in to cook at a time to cover the 
bottom of the kettle, with sirup enough for them to boil 
till so soft that a fork may penetrate them easily; take 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK.” 251 


them out of the sirup with a perforated ladle and lay them 
upon a dish to drain. When all are done fill your jars 
full of the fruit, and pour on of the brandied liquid until 
they are entirely covered. The sirup from the peaches 
may be used for stewing fruit to be used at once. Some 
think it best to peel after weighing, and allow six peaches 
for the thin skins of six pounds. ‘Two persons should be 
engaged, the one in peeling, the other in cooking, to pre- 
vent the fruit from looking dark. 


202 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XX. 


PICKLES, 


Prepared Vinegar.—Green Pickle, No. 1 (quickly made).—Green 
Pickle, No. 2 (quickly made).—Isabella’s Cabbage Pickle.—Green 
Mangoes.—Cabbage Pickle.—Chopped Pickle.—Filling for Five 
Dozen Peach Mangoes.— Peach Mangoes.— Peach Mangoes 
(Another Way).— Pepper Mangoes.— Martinoes.— Cut-cucumber 
Pickle.—Ripe Tomato Pickle.-—Green Tomato Pickle, No. 1.— 
Green Tomato Pickle, No. 2.—Onion Pickle.—Walnut Pickle. 
—Hiden Salad.—Chow-chow, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Pickled. Mush- 
rooms.— Pickled Peppers.— Sweet Pickle. (So-called German.) 
—To Green Pickles.—To Stuff Forty Large Cucumbers.—Span- 
ish Pickle.-—Watermelon-rind Pickle, No. 1.—Watermelon-rind 
Pickle, No. 2.—Buck and Breck Pickle.—Sweet-peach Pickle.— 
Ripe Cantaloupe Pickle. (Eastern Shore.) 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PICKLING. 


Tue horseradish used in pickles must be scraped and 
dried; the garlic must be soaked from three to ten days 
in salt and water, changing the water once or twice a day. 
Let the mustard and other seeds be bruised; spices are 
put in without any preparation. The above-mentioned 
ingredients may be put in as you prepare them, but the 
vegetables should not be kept waiting; as soon as they 
are ready the vinegar must be poured upon them. 


PREPARED VINEGAR. 


Pour two gallons of vinegar to one pint of black mus- 
tard-seed well beaten, four ounces of white ginger, three 
ounces of black pepper, three ounces of allspice, one ounce 
of cloves, one ounce of mace, all to be pounded together 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 203 


in a mortar tolerably well; a large handful of horseradish 
scraped and cut into thin slices, one handful of garlic, two 
pounds of sugar, one ounce of celery-seed bruised, and 
three lemons sliced, the seeds being carefully picked out 
with the point of a penknife. This liquor will do for 
either green or yellow pickle. If meant for the latter, 
add one ounce of turmeric. This vinegar should be made 
and set in the sun during the clear hot weather in sum- 
mer, and kept in a dry place. When the fruit for the 
yellow pickle is sufficiently bleached for the pot, more 
turmeric should be added; and if after a while it is not 
found sweet enough, add also more sugar until it is pleas- 
antly flavored. In preparing cabbage, it is better to boil 
it a while in water with a little salt, and let it drain in the 
sun for a few hours, than to keep it in brine for a few 
days; it is more tender, and sooner fit for use. When 
put in the liquor the cabbage should be sprinkled with 
turmeric. | 


GREEN Pickir, No. 1. (Quickly Made.) 


Cucumbers, snap-beans, gherkins, green fox-grapes, and 
tomatoes are principally used for this pickle. Put your 
materials in brine that will bear an egg. Let them re- 
main so a fortnight, or as long as you choose; for they 
may remain for six months or even a year thus, without 
injury, if you only see to it that they are well covered 
up with grape-leaves weighted down upon them and sub- 
merged in brine. When you are ready to pickle, take 
them out and soak them in weak vinegar for several days; 
then scald them in strong spiced vinegar, prepared as fol- 
lows: To one gallon of vinegar (which will be sufficient 
for a peck of pickles) put four ounces of long pepper, 
one ounce of cloves, four ounces of mustard-seed (half 
white, half black), one ounce of mace, two ounces of cel- 


254 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


ery-seed, six red-pepper pods, a handful of horseradish ; 
sweeten to your taste. Three pounds would not be too 
much for most modern tastes. 


GREEN PickiE, No. 2. (Quickly Made.) : 


Two pounds of sugar, half an ounce of cloves, two ounces 
of celery-seed, half an ounce of mace, four ounces of white 
ginger, four ounces of white mustard-seed, four ounces 
of pepper (red and black), two ounces of allspice; put of 
horseradish, dried and sliced, as much as you can grasp 
in one hand; one lemon cut in thin slices, and the seed 
extracted; one pint of onions or garlic sliced or chopped. 

The above seasoning is meant for one gallon of vinegar, 
a greater or less quantity to be proportioned accordingly; 
the vegetables to be prepared in the usual way. It is 
better to put all together on the fire until the flavoring 
has struck well through the pickles and they are tender. 
When cold, tie up closely, and be careful to exclude the 
air always. A good house-keeper is always watchful of 
her pickle-pots, and if there is any tendency to mould or 
ferment pours off the vinegar, scalds and skims it, add- 
ing fresh, and stronger if it can be procured. 


IsABELLA’s CaBBAGE PickiE. (Very Good.) 


Get the hardest small heads of cabbage that you can, 
and cut them into quarters; put them in a kettle, and 
sprinkle over them a little salt ; set them on a slow fire, 
and let them simmer gently till done—that is to say, 
tender ; then take them out of the water and let them 
stand till the next day. Take as much vinegar as will 
cover them, with one table-spoonful of turmeric, and scald 
them; let them stand in it a day; then take them out and 
let them drain. Next, take what flavoring you like of 
sugar, seeds, onion and spices, with as much vinegar as 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 255 


will fill up your pot; put them on the fire together, and 
when they have come to a boil pour them, scalding hot, 
over the cabbages, placed in a pickle-jar ready to receive 
the bath. You should be careful not to let the cabbage 
get too done, else the leaves will come apart and drop 
to pieces. 
GREEN MANGOES. 

. For this purpose small cantaloupes or watermelons are 
generally pulled when so late in the season that there is 
no possibility of their ripening. Occasionally large cucum- 
bers, having their seeds scraped out, are stuffed mango 
fashion. They are to be greened as other pickles by lying 
in brine between layers of grape-leaves ; prepare for their 
stufting half a pound of white ginger soaked in salt-water 
till soft, half a pound of horseradish scraped, and soaked 
twelve hours, a pint of garlic soaked and dried, a pint 
of onions chopped into small pieces ; scrape your melons 
clean of seed, fill them with salt, and let them remain three 
days; on the fourth, wipe them quite dry. In addition to 
the above condiments, collect two ounces of long pepper, 
dried and salted, half an ounce of common black pepper, 
a table-spoonful each of mace, cloves, and two ounces of 
celery-seed, with half a pound of mustard-seed, black and 
white mixed ; beat all together into a paste with olive oil, 
or butter fresh from the churn. Fill the melons, put them 
in a stone jar; pour in half a pint of mustard-seed, and 
- fill the jar with boiling vinegar. 


CABBAGE PICKLE. 


One dozen heads of cabbage (the firmest must be se- 
lected) ; quarter them, and cover with boiling brine ; let 
them stand twenty-four hours, then squeeze and dry upon 
a large flat dish for several days; then put them in a ket- 
tle covered with vinegar ; add a teacupful of ground gin- 


256 VIRGINIA VOOKERY-BOOK. 


ger, two table-spoonfuls of allspice, two table-spoonfuls 
of black pepper, one dozen small green pepper-pods, a 
teacupful of mustard-seed and one of celery-seed, all 
bruised together, one spoonful of mace, and two ounces 
of turmeric. Boil until the stalk is soft, and then add 
two pounds of brown sugar. It is ready for immediate 
use. 

CHOPPED PICKLE 
Is made in the same way, except that it needs to be 
scalded but once. Chop the cabbage, sprinkle it with 
salt, and let it stand for two hours; then drain in a col- 
ander until dry. Put the cabbage in a kettle, with some 
chopped onion, pepper, horseradish, mustard, and celery- 
seed, adding a small proportion of pounded mace; cover 
with good cider vinegar; let all boil together well, and 
when cold the pickle is fit for use. Sugar will be found 
necessary in almost all cases nowadays. It is safe to al- 
low one pound to a gallon of vinegar ; and many persons 
put it in their pickle-dishes whenever they fill them to set 
upon the dinner-table. | 


Finuinc ror Five Dozen Pracu MANGOES. 


Stick three cloves of garlic in each one, and have ready 
made into a paste, with olive oil and five table-spoonfuls 
of flour of mustard, a quarter of a pound of chopped onion, 
half a pound of white mustard-seed, a quarter of a pound of 
black mustard-seed, a quarter of a pound of long pepper, 
four table-spoonfuls of black pepper, one ounce of mace, 
half an ounce of cloves, and half a pound of horseradish. 


Pracu MANGOES. 
In making mango peaches for yellow pickle, you must 
let them lie three days in salt and water ; then they will 
be soft enough to rub off the down and take out the stones, 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 257 


which must be done with great care. Be careful to keep 
the slice you take from the bottom, in order to sew on 
again after you stuff them with everything that the recipe 
calls for in case of green mangoes, adding to those ingre- 
dients a little turmeric sprinkled in with other things. 
The large White Heath peach is the best variety to select 
for the above purpose. 


Preach Mancors. (Another Way.) 


Select the largest size of the Black Georgia peach of 
the open-stone kind; let them be full grown, but by no 
means mellow when used for pickle; cover them first 
with brine strong enough to bear an egg; allow them to 
remain in this a week; remove the stones carefully, and 
wipe them dry. First rub on the inside of each peach a 
teaspoonful of celery-seed ; then stuff each peach with as 
much of the filling, for which a recipe is appended, as it 
will hold, and sew it up securely with a large needle and 
strong linen thread or fine twine. Have vinegar ready to 
cover them, prepared thus: To one gallon of vinegar put 
a pound of nice brown sugar, a pod of red pepper sliced, 
or a teaspoonful of Cayenne ; let it come to a boil, and 
immediately take it off; pour it hot over the peaches, 
but do not tie up closely till perfectly cold. 


PEPPER MANGOES. 


A large pepper is grown especially for this purpose. 
Put your peppers in brine for several weeks after the seed 
has been extracted, by cutting a slit in the side, which 
must be sewed up after the mangoes are stuffed. Take 
them out of the brine and soak in clear water for a day 
and night; scald them in vinegar, and let them stand three 
days; prepare the stuffing as for any other mangoes, only 
adding besides some cabbage chopped, small snaps, and 


258 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


tiny cucumbers, at pleasure. When the peppers are filled 
and stitched up put them in a jar; whatever spices you 
have left from stuffing, put in a thin muslin bag and boil 
in one quart of vinegar; pour this hot on the mangoes, 
and then fill the jar with the best cider vinegar, cold. 


MARTINOES. 


Gather them early in the morning, when they are tender 
enough to push the head of a pin through them; wash 
them clean; put them in salt-water ; let them lie in it 
three or four days; take them out and put them in fresh- 
water for a day ; then boil them for a few minutes in vin- 
egar, with a seasoning of allspice and cloves. Pour all in 
a jar, and let them stand four or five weeks; then put 
them in your green-pickle jar. In six weeks they are 
ready for use. 

CuT-CUCUMBER PICKLE. 

Prepare a strong brine, in which you can keep your 
pickles as long as you choose ; wipe the cucumbers well 
after taking them out of the brine, and let them soak a 
few days in weak vinegar to extract the salt and water ; 
then cut the cucumbers in slices half an inch thick. For 
two gallons of pickle have ready laid in some convenient 
place, and well combined, two ounces of allspice, half an 
ounce of cloves, one ounce of mace, one ounce of black 
pepper, half an ounce of Cayenne, a gill of celery-seed, 
and a pint of chopped onion. In a stone jar put a layer 
of cucumbers, a layer of these seasonings, and strew brown 
sugar over; repeat this until your jar is filled to within 
three inches of the top; cover with strong vinegar; tie up 
the jar very securely and set it in an iron pot of cold water 
coming two-thirds up its sides ; let the water boil around 
until you can run a straw through the pieces of cucumber. 

N.B.—You may vary the flavoring, if you fancy, thus: 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BO OK. - 259 


two ounces each of cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and mus- 
tard-seed ; allow about three pounds of sugar to a two- 
gallon jar. 

Riese Tomato PIckuez. 

Gather fine ripe tomatoes and lay them in salt-water for 
one night ; then chop a good quantity of onions, and pack 
them away with the whole tomatoes in a jar; layers of 
tomatoes and onions, with a plenty of pepper, salt, and 
allspice beaten fine and sprinkled over each layer. When 
the jar is full add the vinegar (sweetened or not, as you 
like), and tie it up close. 


GREEN Tomato Picxte, No. 1. 


Gather all the green tomatoes off the vines in the fall 
when frost seems imminent. They will keep good for 
Some time spread on boards or shelves. Some of them 
will ripen, and the rest may be made into delightful pic- 
kles and catsups. To half a bushel of tomatoes put five 
table-spoonfuls of mustard-seed, beaten up fine (or pow- 
dered mustard), five gills of mustard-seed whole, two 
table-spoonfuls of ground pepper, two table-spoonfuls of 
allspice, two table-spoonfuls of cloves, one gill of salt, 
three pints of chopped onion, four pounds of brown sugar, 
two gallons of vinegar, or just enough to completely cover 
the pickle ; less may do; boil until tolerably tender and 
transparent. The tomatoes should be cut into thin slices 
the day before you are ready for pickling, and sprinkled 
through and through with salt, only not too heavily. In 
the morning pour off all the liquor that will drain from 
them, and then proceed as directed above. 


GREEN Tomato Picks, No. 2. 


Take one peck of tomatoes cut into slices; sprinkle 
with salt for one day ; strain through a colander. Make 


260 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


ready four onions sliced in the same way, four ounces of _ 
white mustard-seed, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of 
ground ginger, one ounce of black pepper, half an ounce 
of allspice, two ounces of ground mustard mixed as for 
the dinner-table. Mix the spice and the onions together; 
have your kettle ready ; put in a layer of tomatoes and 
one of spice alternately ; then cover them with vinegar 
and let them simmer until the tomatoes look clear, They 
may be used at once. 


ONION PICKLE. 


Take large white onions, and pour over them boiling salt- 
water; let them stand so three days; then pour off the 
brine and add fresh boiling brine, letting it remain other 
three days; then take one gallon of vinegar, adding two 
ounces of turmeric in a thin muslin bag. Scald the vine- 
gar a few moments, and pour over the onions boiling hot. 
Cover close, and let them stand ten days or two weeks; 
then take out and drop into your seasoned vinegar, 


WALNUT PICKLE. 


White walnuts are the best for this pickle, but English 
walnuts are very nice, and the common black walnut will 
do. Gather the ruts early in June, while the outer rind 
may be easily penetrated with a pin. Put them in a jar, 
and cover them well with boiling salt and water strong 
enough to bear an egg. Keep them thus nine days, 
changing the brine every three days. When you take 
them out, spread them on a large dish or dishes to dry 
in the air, turning them at least once. This exposure to 
the air will aid in turning them black. In the evening 
put them in fresh-water, and next day put them in a kettle, 
and covering them with vinegar, well flavored with black 
pepper, cloves, garlic, mustard-seed, and a dash of mace, 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 261 


let them all come to a boil together. Next day pour off 
~ the vinegar, and let it boil alone, only scalding the pic- 
kles with it ; repeat this the third day, and when cold tie 
up very close. This pickle keeps admirably, and is as 
popular as any other made; especially in the spring of 
the year is it acceptable with fish. 


HipEN SALAD. 


To one gallon of cabbage chopped fine add half a gal- 
lon of green tomatoes, one pint of green pepper-pods (first 
taking out the seeds), one quart of onions, all chopped fine. 
Strain off the juice, and throw it away; then add four 
table-spoonfuls of mixed mustard, two table-spoonfuls of 
ground ginger, one table-spoonful of cloves, two ounces 
of turmeric, one ounce of celery-seed, two pounds of brown 
sugar, two table-spoonfuls of salt to two quarts of good 
vinegar. Boil slowly twenty minutes, and add to the 
other ingredients, which must be well mixed together. 


Cuow-Cuow, No.1. (Very like what is Imported.) 


In making this admired pickle, so justly regarded as a 
delicacy, the rarer and more tender the vegetable the 
nearer it comes to the proper standard of excellence. 
Wide- mouthed ‘glass jars should be provided for the 
putting away of chow-chow. The following recipe is for 
filling four quart-bottles: Take two large perfect heads 
of cauliflower, and divide them up into small but shapely 
pieces, so as to leave'a little of the blossom unbroken on 
each one ; one quart of cucumbers, by no means over two 
inches in length, one dozen small green-pepper pods, and 
one quart of cloves, of garlic, or tiny onion-bulbs peeled; 
half a pint of nasturtiums are nice, but may or may not 
be included. Let the vegetables stay twenty-four hours 
in brine ; the garlic or onions to be scalded and left to 


262 - VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


soak in a vessel by themselves ; next morning mix all to- 
gether, and let them drain two hours through a colander; 
taste, and if too salt pour a bath of- hot water through 
them while still in the colander ; next put the vegetables 
in a preserving-kettle over the fire, sprinkling through 
them two ounces of turmeric, adding two table-spoonfuls 
of Cayenne pepper and a quarter of a pound of English 
mustard mixed smooth, with a teacupful of water that has 
been boiled but become lukewarm ; pour on enough of 
the best cider vinegar to cover well, and simmer until 
the vegetables are tender, watching and stirring from time 
totime. Imported chow-chow has no sugar; but to please 
American taste the house- keeper may add to suit the 
requisition of her own family. In deference to the great 
diversity of tastes, we give two other approved recipes 
for the same. 
Cuow-Cuow, No. 2. 

Half a peck of onions, half a peck of green tomatoes, 
three dozen large cucumbers, four large green pepper-pods, 
-one pint of small red and green peppers. Spyinkle one 
pint of salt upon them, and let them drain all night; then 
add one ounce of mace, one ounce of white pepper, one 
ounce of white mustard-seed, one ounce of turmeric, half 
an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of celery- seed, three 
table-spoonfuls of made mustard, two pounds of brown 
sugar. The cucumbers are not peeled, but sliced an inch 
thick. The onions and peppers are also sliced. Cover 
all with vinegar, and boil half an hour. 


Cuow-Cuow, No. 8. 


One large head of bleached cabbage, two dozen cucum- 
bers (medium size), one dozen green peppers, one gallon 
green tomatoes, half a dozen onions (silver - skinned). 
Chop the onions, and pour hot water over them, letting — 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 263 


them stand ten minutes; chop the ingredients fine, and 
sprinkle salt over them, adding the onions. Let them 
stand all night, and then drain two hours in the morning ; 
pour weakened vinegar over them, and let them stand 
twenty-four hours; pour off that vinegar, and to every 
gallon of the mixture put one pound and a half of sugar ; 
put two table-spoonfuls of turmeric in a Swiss muslin 
bag and drop it into the pot for coloring matter. For 
seasoning put one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, 
two ounces of white mustard -seed, and one nutmeg to 
each gallon of vegetables. Two quarts of vinegar for the 
same quantity of pickling matter. 


PickLED MusHrooms. 


Wash the buttons well from the dirt, without peeling, 
and let them drain. Peel the large ones. To nine quarts 
of mushrooms put two table-spoonfuls of mace, one of 
cloves finely pulverized ; Cayenne pepper to the taste; 
two or three pieces of garlic and a teaspoonful of salt. 
Place the mushrooms in the pot in which you intend to 
keep them, sprinkling the seasoning through as you fill it 
up; pour boiling vinegar over them; tie them up so 
as to exclude the air, and in a few weeks they will be 
mature enough to use. As a condiment for almost any 
impromptu stew, a dash of this pickle would commend 
itself to the taste of an epicure. 


PIcKLED PEPPERS. 


These are useful, not only for seasoning but in cases 
of sore throat or cold. Let them stand in salt and water 
a fortnight, changing it every third day; cut them open 
at the sides and extract the seed. When taken out of 
the brine boil weak vinegar to pour over them every day 
until green; then boil the vinegar with two handfuls of 


264 _ VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


salt; let it get perfectly cold, and pour over them. The 
unripe ball-nosed peppers of all sizes are the best ones 
to use for this pickle. , 


Sweet Pickite. (So-called German.) / 


Seven pounds of fruit, three pounds of brown sugar, 
one quart of sharp vinegar, one ounce of cinnamon, half 
an ounce of cloves, six blades of mace. JBoil the sugar, 
spices, and vinegar together, and pour over the fruit 
boiling hot; cover up tight, and let it stand so for 
twenty-four hours; then pour off the vinegar, boil it, 
and return it hot to the fruit; the third morning scald 
the fruit with the vinegar, and the process is complete. 
Keep in a dry and cool place. This recipe answers equal- 
ly well for cherries, peaches, damascenes, plums, etc., etc. 


The peaches commonly chosen for sweet pickle are the .. 


Georgia Cling-stone or Heath ; but if you cannot procure 
these, any cling-stone peach will do. Pears are prettier 
when small in size and firm in flesh. The only prepara- 
tion these fruits need is paring. Damsons and plums 
must be pierced with a coarse needle to prevent their 
skins from bursting. Cherries are prettier with their 
stems left on. 
To GREEN PICKLEs. 


To a piece of alum the size of an ordinary walnut add 


one gallon of water. Put the cucumbers in, and let them 


stand half a day; then take them and throw them into 
cold water. 

An easy way to green all pickles is to boil them in 
strong ginger tea. 


To Sturr Forty Large CucumMBERs. 


Green them as described above. Take the seeds from 
the melons, being careful not to take out too much of 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 265 





the inside; sprinkle them with salt, and let them stand 
twenty-four hours; take them out, and make a weak- 
ened vinegar in which to soak them a week or ten days; 
then draw off the vinegar, and stuff them as follows: 
One half-pound of mace, the same of ginger and horse- 
radish scraped and dried, one pound of white mustard- 
seed washed and dried, half a pound of garlic, two ounces 
of turmeric, two ounces of cloves, two ounces of mace, half 
a pound of celery-seed; beat all these ingredients well 
together in a mortar. Mix a pint of made mustard and 
salad oil with one pound of brown sugar; stuff the cucum- 
bers, sew up, and after you have filled your jar with them 
pour over strong cold vinegar, and expose to the sun 
every day until cold weather comes. This pickle im- 
proves with age. If you prefer to make’ them into yellow 
pickle, omit the greening and put a quarter of a pound of 
turmeric into the first vinegar in which they are thrown 
after being taken from the brine. 


SPANISH PICKLE. 


One peck of cucumbers sliced about an inch thick, two 
dozen onions, sliced, two dozen pods of green peppers ; 
sprinkle with salt, and let them stand twenty-four hours. 
Then put all where they can drain all night. Prepare 
vinegar by adding to one gallon of pure cider vinegar 
one ounce of turmeric, two ounces of white ginger, a quar- 
ter of a pound of ground mustard, one ounce of horse- 
radish, two ounces of celery-seed, four table-spoonfuls 
of olive oil, and a pound and a half of brown sugar. 


WATERMELON-RIND Pickx.e, No. 1. 


Of late years this has become a favorite on the tables 
of many, and is certainly convenient to resort to in sea- 
sons when fruit is scarce and dear. Pare the outer rind 

12 


“ 


266 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


off watermelons that are brought from the dinner-table ; 
cut them simply into strips or leaves, stars—any shape, in 
short, that you may fancy; take ten pounds of this rind 
and boil it in clear water until tender; make a sirup of 
two pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, half an ounce 
of cloves, and half an ounce of cinnamon ; the sirup to be 
boiled, and poured over the rinds boiling hot; drain the 
sirup off and let it come to a boil, and pour over the rinds 
three days in succession. It will keep for years. 


WATERMELON-RIND Pickie, No. 2. 


Scrape off the outer hard green rind, and leave the 
other part of the rind as thick as possible; put the pre- 
pared pieces, cut about two inches long, in fresh-water, 
and let them stay in it allnight. Next morning put them 
on the fire in fresh-water, and let them boil until tender 
and clear; to each ten pounds of the fruit put the grated 
rind and juice of two lemons, and two ounces of scraped 
white ginger; boil the ginger and lemon in one quart of 
vinegar, and pour it hot over the rinds four mornings suc- 
cessively; then fasten up securely. 


di 


Buck AND Breck PICKLE. 


Three heads of firm, hard cabbage, one peck of green 
tomatoes, half a peck of ripe tomatoes, one dozen. onions ; 
half a dozen each of green and red peppers, two pounds 
of sugar; all to be chopped fine and salted overnight. 
In the morning squeeze the water from it; put the vege- 
tables in the kettle, with vinegar enough to cover them ; 
simmer the whole for three hours together; just before 
removing from the fire add a teaspoonful of grated horse- 
radish. The other seasonings are a table-spoonful of 
ground mustard, the same of whole white mustard-seed, 
the same of black mustard-seed, half-an ounce of mace, 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 267 





half an ounce of cloves, one table-spoonful of black pep- 
per, and three table-spoonfuls of celery-seed. 


SwWEET-PEACH PICKLE. 


To fourteen pounds of peeled peaches put six pounds 
of fair brown sugar and two quarts of vinegar. Put to- 
gether in a plate two ounces of stick cinnamon, broken 
up, a table-spoonful of whole mace, and a teaspoonful 
of cloves. Get a tall, two-gallon stone jar; lay in it 
about a quart of peaches; cover them with sugar, sprinkle 
some of the spice on top; go on so until you have ex- 
hausted all your materials; when your jar is full then 
pour over the vinegar; tie a cloth tightly over the top, 
first putting a saucer or plate that will just fit over the 
fruit to keep it under the vinegar; set the jar in an iron 
pot half full of cold water; set it on the fire, and let the 
water boil around it till the pickle is tender enough to 
be easily penetrated with a straw. 


Ripe CanTaLtourE Pickie. (Hastern Shore.) 


Seven pounds of cantaloupe-rind cut from a melon ripe 
but not soft. Peel thickly; wash and drain thoroughly. 
To two quarts of vinegar add four pounds of brown sugar, 
and one ounce each of cinnamon, white ginger, and cloves, 
with the rind of two lemons; boil the vinegar and sugar 
together, and remove any scum that rises ; add the spices, 
and let it boil a few minutes; then put in the fruit, and 
let it boil until the sirup looks a little thick. 


268 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XXII. 
CURED MEATS AND FISH. 


To Cure Bacon.—To Cure Jowls and Chines for Early Use.—Sau- 
sage-meat, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—To Cure Hams by Pickling.—Souse 
in Moulds.— Brine for Preserving Souse.— Mock Bologna Sau- 
sage.—Pudding.—To Corn Beef, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—A Spiced Round 
of Beef.—To Broil Ham Nicely.— A Stuffed Ham.—To Cure 
Tongues.—To Cure Rennet.—Prize Recipe for Curing Virginia 
Hams.—To Boil a Ham.—Pressed Beef.—Pickled Herrings. 


To Cure Bacon. 


Pork is always killed before dawn, in order that, if pos- 
sible, it may all be cut up the same day and put away 
without loss of time. Use Liverpool salt for curing it. 
Rub every piece well on the skin, in the first place. To 
each joint take a dessert-spoonful of saltpetre and rub it 
in the flesh with a table-spoonful of brown sugar and a 
- teaspoonful of black pepper; then rub it all over again 
with salt, and pack away in hogsheads with the skin 
downward, and let it remain untouched five or six weeks, 
according to the temperature of the weather; for while 
damp, unseasonably warm weather should be especially 
avoided as the time for pork-killing, on the other hand 
salt does not strike in near so well as if the weather is 
freezingly cold: more time should then be allowed for 
the salting part of the process. Zoo long lying in salt 
makes bacon rusty. 

The next part of the process is smoking the meat, for 
which every family used to be provided with a regular 
smoke-house, whether living in town or country. The 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 269 


meat was hung upon rafters in a house without a chim- 
ney (brick preferred), a slow fire was built on the ground 
in the centre of the room—such as would produce smoke, 
not flame—and the meat left hanging where it was fully 
exposed to it for several weeks. When taken out of the 
packing-tubs, the pork was scraped clean of salt and 
rubbed well with dry hickory ashes before being hung 
up to smoke. Great care was taken not to let the meat 
get heated while exposed to the smoke, and the fire was 
watched constantly—a careful, trustworthy person being 
selected for the office. To avoid the ravages of the fly, 
hams and shoulders had always best be put into canvas 
bags, or simply wrapped closely in several folds of paper 
before the warm spring weather sets in. Where the place 
is safe, bacon may be left hanging in the smoke-house all 
the year, a little fire being made up from time to time to 
keep off mould and damp, but it keeps well also laid down 
in barrels, packed in dry hickory ashes. 


To CurE JOWLS AND CHINES FoR Earty USE. 


Jowl affords the sweetest meat to cook with turnip- 
tops, the Virginian’s favorite dish in early spring, and 
the same thing may be said of chine as served with nice, 
bleached heads of cabbage. Use the upper ends of the 
chine cut in foot lengths for a nice dish at table; trim 
off the superfluous fat, but see that the butcher has left 
a good layer of flesh on either side of the bone; allow a 
teaspoonful of saltpetre to each jowl and chine, and rub 
it well all over the surface, and then drop them into a tub 
containing brine made in the proportion of one quart of 
salt to a gallon of water; place the meat in the bottom 
of a cask, cover with boards, which must be weighted 
down, and then pour over enough brine to completely 
cover. 


270 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


SAUSAGE-MEAT, No. 1. 


Take forty-two pounds of lean pork, twenty-four Nonna 
of leaf-fat, eight pounds of backbone fat, ten ounces of 
black pepper, twenty-two ounces of salt, forty table-_ 
spoonfuls of sage, and one ounce of Cayenne pepper. To 
be good, sausage should be chopped very fine; and for 
this end a sausage-grinder is recommended, being an in- 
expensive machine, and very useful whenever meat is 
to be chopped. 

SAUSAGE-MEAT, No, 2. 

Take all the trimmings cut in shaping the regular joints 
of a porker; carefully remove every particle of bone, and 
try to pile up the meat in the proportion of one pound of 
fat to three of lean. The rule is always to have fat enough 
for the sausage to fry itself, otherwise it is pronounced 
too poor. Season very highly with pepper, salt, and sage, 
cooking a little to judge if it is well seasoned, and adding 
whatever may be required. If you make more than your 
family can consume fresh, the best way for keeping it is 
said to be frying it in cakes as if for present use, then 
packing them closely together in a small jar or wide- 
mouthed bottle, and to fill up the mouth with lard, then 
seal up so as to be air-tight until wanted. Packed raw in 
small bladders or entrails, or even sewed tightly in cot- 
ton cloths and hung in a dry place, sausage will keep 
quite satisfactorily, and make a nice dish as an occasional 
relish, especially when fried with eggs. 


SAUSAGE-MEAT, No. 3. 


Twenty pounds of pork, mixed in the proportion of one 
part of fat to two parts of lean meat, six ounces and a 
half of salt, four ounces and a half of black pepper, three 
table-spoonfuls of powdered sage. Let the meat be ground 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 271 





very smooth and fine. If you want to put any away for 
use some months later add two ounces of sugar, and be 
very careful that no water touches the meat. 


To Curr Hams By PICKLING. 


’ Immediately after the hams are cut out sprinkle the 
under side slightly with saltpetre, which will remove all 
the surface-blood, leaving the meat fresh and clean. Have 
ready an iron-bound cask, proportioned in size to the num- 
ber of hams you wish to cure, and make a brine thus: To 
one gallon of water put four pounds of salt, one pound of 
sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and half an ounce of pot- 
ash ; in the same proportions make as many gallons as 
you like. Boil all together until the dirt from the sugar 
and salt has risen to the surface and been skimmed off, 
then pour it into a tub to cool; pack your pork in the 
cask ; weight it down with clean bricks or stones ; pour 
the brine over until the meat is thoroughly covered, and 
let it so remain for four or five weeks. 


SousE In Mou tps. 


Three faces and one jowl will make two nice pound 
moulds. Have the meat nicely cleansed, and boiled until 
tender enough almost to drop to pieces; mince the flesh 
thoroughly after picking every bone carefully out; then 
flavor with a teaspoonful of allspice, the same of black 
pepper, and a table-spoonful of salt. Put the souse into 
cake-moulds, pressing it in very firmly; next day turn out 
of the moulds and put the cakes into a pickle of brine and 
vinegar. 

: _Brin& FoR PRESERVING SOUSE. 

Five quarts of water and one quart of vinegar to one 
quart of salt; the salt is to be carefully dissolved in the 
liquor, and the mixture to be strained through a. cloth. 


y 


ve 


wd 


272 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


If this quantity is not sufficient to cover as much souse as 
you have prepared, increase the bulk by adhering to the 
same relative proportion of one ingredient to the others. 
Souse cheese is a dish always ready and in place. Made 
of refuse meat, as it were, it is a genuine delicacy, and 
must have the accompaniments of mustard, pepper, salt, 
and any catsup or sauce fancied, when set upon the table. 


Mock BotoGna SAUSAGE. 


One part of beef, two parts of pork, with enough fat on 
both for the sausage to fry without butter or lard; season 
to taste with onion, sage, and pepper, black and red. If 
not for immediate use, stuff tightly in cloth bags and 
hang them up in a dry place. 


PupDpDING. 


Take five hog faces and have them singed and scraped 
nicely ; then throw them into a tub of water, with a hand- 
ful of salt; let them remain so for two days or more, 
changing the salt and water every day ; some persons 
-add a few slices taken from the backbone. Have ready 
about two pounds of beef liver; when the meat has been ~ 
long enough in soak, put it on to boil, and let it cook until 
the flesh is ready to drop off and the bones ean be all re- 
moved with readiness. While thus preparing this part of 
the pudding, put the liver on to parboil, and then chop all 
together very fine on a board, if you have no sausage- 
grinder ; season with salt, pepper, and allspice to your 
taste ; two table-spoonfuls of each will probably answer. 
Most people make a sort of sausage of this preparation by 
stuffing with it hog entrails of the larger kind, or beef 
entrails, which are still better. If to be kept in this way, 
boil a short time before storing, in order to cook the out- 
side, which will make it keep longer. Fried, however, 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. _ 2% 


fresh as you do sausage, it is very nice for persons who 
can partake of rich dishes, and in cold weather is a fa- 
vorite breakfast relish at many tables. This recipe is of 
German origin, and came from the valley of Virginia, 
where are many settlers of that nationality. 


To Corn Beer, No.1. | 


To six pounds of salt put five gallons of water, two 
pounds of common brown sugar, and half a pound of salt- 
petre ; boil this brine, and skim it well; when perfectly 
cool put the beef in it. It is important to sprinkle the 
beef first with salt, and keep it lying thus on a board or 
other place where it can be drained of all blood adhering ; 
then see that it is submerged beneath the brine, and keep 
it well covered. This recipe never fails to give satisfac- 
tion. The beef matures in ten days, and is tender and 
sweet. Into this brine you can drop with advantage 
tongues, chines, or jowls, and find them conveniently ready 
for use. 

To Corn Beer, No. 2. 

Six gallons of water, nine pounds of salt, three pounds 
of brown sugar, one quart of molasses, three ounces of 
saltpetre, two ounces of pearlash or soda. Boil, skim, and 
pour over the beef when cold. 


To Corn Buzer, No. 3. 


Four gallons of water, six pounds of salt, one pound 
and a half of sugar, four ounces of saltpetre. 


A Spicep Rounp or BeEeEr. 


Take a large round of beef weighing from twenty to 
twenty-five pounds; take three ounces of saltpetre, and, 
after beating it up very fine in a muslin rag, rub it well 
into the round ; let it stand thus for two days; then take 

19% 


274 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


one quart of salt, two nutmegs grated, with one ounce of 
cloves, and half an ounce of mace pounded up fine, and 
rub the meat well with it, and put it in a tub provided 
with a close cover; take out the bone that runs through 
the round, and fill the cavity thus formed with the salt 
and saltpetre ; rub the round well with the spices, etc., 
every day for two weeks or longer, if you do not wish to 
cook it at the end of that time. When ready to bring it 
to table, wash the beef off ; fill the hole where the bone 
was with a piece of suet; lay the round on a board, take 
a tape or piece of strong twine, and bind it to keep it 
round and compact; then put it in an oven that just fits 
it; strew some suet over the top, pour over a pint and a 
half of water ; then make a paste out of a quart of flour 
and cold water, nothing else; roll it out and make it fit. 
all over the beef; then place a thick sheet of paper over 
that, and set it to bake. Allow five hours at least for the 
baking, and do not remove the top crust until next day, 
when it is perfectly cold. ‘ 

When one has cut off-of a spiced round until tired of 
it the meat may be grated up, and will furnish a delight- 
ful relish at tea or lunch. 


To Brort Ham Nicgty. 

Slice the meat from the ham raw as thin as you can, 
then put it into a pan of cold water; set it on the stove 
in a stewpan and let it come to a boil; then have your 
griddle hot, and broil the meat with a little butter dropped 
into the pan and a plentiful sprinkling of black pepper. 


A Sturrep Ham. 


Boil the ham until you can remove the skin readily, 
then gash it to the bone; fill the cavities with a stuff- 
ing made of stale bread-crumbs seasoned with butter, 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 275 





pepper, salt, and a sprinkling of thyme or parsley, if you 
like those herbs; then grate bread-crumbs finely over 
the top; brush with the yolk of egg, and bake slowly till 
done. Or,if you serve a hot-boiled ham for dinner one 
day, and but little of it is used, fill up the space whence 
slices have been cut—near the hock it should be—with a 
stuffing as directed above, and let it remain in the oven 
just long enough to brown nicely, no further cooking 
being required. 
To Cure TonauEs. 

Select large ones; rub them in salt, and lay them where 
they may drain for two days, and then drop them into 
a brine made just as directed for corned-beef. If you like 
them smoked, when sufficiently salt, ten days or two 
weeks will answer; take them out of the brine, rub them 
dry with corn-meal; then spread them on a board and 
paint them well over with pyroligneous acid, which you 
can buy from any good druggist; then run a string 
through the small end, and hang them up to dry. 


To Curse RENNET. 


Take the stomach from the calf as soon as it is killed; 
do not wash it, but hang it in a dry cool place for four or 
five days; then turn it inside out ; slip off all the curd nice- 
ly with the hand; fill it with a little saltpetre mixed with 
a good handful of salt, and lay it in a small pot. Pour 
over it a small teaspoonful of vinegar, and sprinkle a 
handful of salt over it ; cover it closely, and keep it for 
use. You must not wash it, for that would weaken the 
‘gastric juice and injure the rennet. After it has been 
salted six or eight weeks cut off a piece four or five 
inches long ; put it.in a large mustard-bottle, or any ves- 
sel that will hold about a pint and a half; put on it five 
gills of cold water and two gills of rose brandy_or sherry 


- 


276 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


wine. Stop it very close, and shake it when you are 
going to use it. It should be prepared in very cool 
weather, and, if well done, will keep more than a year. 
A table-spoonful is enough to turn a quart of milk, 
whether the design is to make cheese, slip, or cheese-cakes. 

By recourse to the druggist, the town house-keeper can 
supply herself more conveniently with prepared rennet ; 
but the notable country housewife who wants nothing 
wasted will find no more useful addition to her stores 
than a timely supply of rennet. 


Prize Reciet ror Curtine VireintaA Hams. 
(Given by M.S. W. Ficklin, Albemarle County, Va.) 


For each hundred pounds of hams ten pounds of salt, 
two ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of brown sugar, and 
one ounce of red pepper, and from four to four and a half 
gallons of water, or just enough to cover the hams after 
being packed in a water-tight vessel (or enough salt to 
make a brine to float a fresh egg high enough, that is to 
say, out of the water). From five to six weeks in brine; 
then hang up, smoke, and put in papers before the fly 
appears in spring—and bagged with the hock turned 
down, and hung till wanted. Boil till well done, for bad 
cookery can spoil the best ham. 


To Bom a Ham. 


Put it in a large pot of cold water, and boil it slowly, 
gently, for five, six, seven, or even eight hours, if uncom- 
monly large—the longer the better. Keep plenty of 
water in the pot all the time, being sure to let what you 
add, however, be always boiling hot. If the ham is old, 
it is well to let it lie overnight in cold water to soak. 
The choicest hams do not weigh over twelve or fifteen 
pounds ; larger ones are apt to be coarse, and not so finely 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOKE. QU7 


flavored. It is a point of pride with old gentlemen farm- 
ers to produce a very old ham when they wish to do a 
guest distinguished honor, or commemorate some fes- 
tive occasion. 

Pressep BEEF. 

First have your beef nicely pickled; let it stay in 
pickle a week; then take the thin flanky pieces, such as 
will not make a handsome dish of themselves; put on 
a large potful, and let them boil until perfectly done; 
then pull it to pieces, and season just as you do souse, 
with pepper, salt, and allspice; only put it in a coarse 
cloth and press down upon it some very heavy weight. 

The advantage of this recipe is that it makes a most. 
acceptable, presentable dish out of a part of the beef 
that otherwise might be wasted. 


PickLED HERRINGS. 


Take fifty nice roe-herrings, cut their heads, tails, and 
fins off ; take out the roe and lay on a dish; wash the fish 
thoroughly, and wipe them dry with a cloth. Mix to- 
gether one teacupful of fine salt, one teaspoonful of Cay- 
enne pepper ; take a pinch of the mixture and rub inside 
of the fish ; then lay the roe back in the fish, and rub the 
outsides also with the salt and pepper ; lay them in a flat 
stone jar (with stone top), backs down ; on every layer 
sprinkle a few allspice and mace ; fill jar with pure cider 
vinegar; cover the top with a piece of flour dough; set 
the jar in an oven after the fire is removed, and let it re- 
main all night just to keep it warm. 


278 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XXII. 
CORDIALS AND COOLING DRINKS. 


Strawberry Acid.—Raspberry Vinegar.—Rose Brandy for Flavor- 
ing.—To make Lemon Sirup.—Cherry Shrub.—Blackberry Acid. 
—Blackberry Cordial. (Medicine.)—Currant Shrub. 


STRAWBERRY ACID. 


Pur twelve pounds of fruit in a bowl, and cover it 
with two quarts of water, previously acidulated with five 
ounces of tartaric acid. Let it remain so for forty-eight 
hours; then strain it, taking care not to bruise the fruit. 
To one pint of clear juice add one pound of powdered 
loaf-sugar ; stir it till dissolved ; then leave it for a few 
days; then bottle it; tie a muslin cloth over the mouth in 
case a slight fermentation should occur, and in a week or 
ten days, being secure against further trouble, cork tight- 
ly ; the whole process to be cold; the bottle, when put 
away, to be kept erect. Do not use any tin vessel in 
making the acid. By this same recipe any berry or 
small fruit may be preserved for an indefinite period, fur- 
nishing the most refreshing drinks in warm weather by 
the simple addition of ice-water; by their bright colors 
enlivening the tables of temperance people who do not 
care to have recourse to wine. As a flavoring for ice- 
creams they are invaluable, and beautiful jellies may also 
be made through their help. — 


RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 


Put one gallon of ripe garden raspberries in a bowl or 
stone jar, and pour over them one quart of strong, well- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK, 279 


flavored vinegar, which must be light in color; mash the 
berries up well with a wooden masher ; let them stand 
twenty-four hours, and then strain them through a flannel 
bag. Pour the liquid thus obtained over another gallon 
of fresh berries ; strain in the same manner, and then use 
a third gallon. When the last is prepared, put it in a tall 
stone jar, with one pound of white sugar to each pint of 
vinegar. As soon as the sugar is melted stir it well, and 
put the jar in a pan of water over the fire, where it may 
simmer for some time ; skim carefully, until nothing more 
rises to the surface, when it must be taken from the fire, 
allowed to cool, and then bottled. There is something 
peculiarly grateful in the flavor of raspberry vinegar ; 
but for those who shrink from the tediousness of the proc- 
ess, raspberry acid made by the preceding recipe will be 
found satisfactory we are sure. | 


Rost BRANDY FOR FLAVORING. 


Gather leaves from fragrant roses, without bruising ; 
fill a pitcher with them, and cover them with French 
brandy ; next day pour off the brandy, take out the 
leaves, and fill the pitcher with fresh ones, and return the 
brandy. Do this until it is strongly impregnated ; then 
bottle it. Keep the pitcher closely covered during the 
process. It is better than distilled rose-water for cakes, 
ete. = 

To Maxe Lemon Srrvp. 

In the spring, when lemons are cheap, a large family 
would always find it to their advantage to buy a whole 
box. Some dozens squeezed, and the juice made into 
sirup, enables one to have lemonade at a moment’s notice 
for months, and give much needed refreshment to the sick 
or weary. To two pounds of loaf or crushed sugar put 
two pints of water and the juice of eight good lemons, 


280 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


boiled for about twenty minutes with the rind of three. 
After the sugar-water and rind are boiled and skimmed 
till clear, you then add the juice, not to be strained till 
the sirup is done; when boiled for about five minutes, 
take it off the fire, strain and bottle it. This quantity 
makes two quart-bottles full, bringing the cost to from 
twenty to thirty cents each. 


CHERRY SHRUB. 


Gather ripe Morello or red sour cherries; pick them 
from the stalk, and put them in an earthen pot, which 
must be set into an iron pot of water; make the water 
boil, but take care that none of it gets into the cherries. 
When the juice is extracted, pour it into a bag made of 
tolerably thick cloth, which will permit the juice, but not 
the pulp, of the cherry to pass through. Put a pound of 
sugar to a-pint of. juice, and, when it becomes perfectly 
clear, bottle. Put half a gill of spirit into each bottle 
before you pour in the juice. Cover the corks with rosin. 
Cherry shrub will keep all summer in a dry, cool place, 
and is delicious mixed with water. 


BLACKBERRY ACID. 


Is made precisely by the recipe for strawberry acid, and 
is one of the finest of all, actually improving by being 
kept till the second year. Its color is a rich garnet. 


BiacKBERRY CorpraL. (Medicine.) 


To two quarts of blackberry juice add one pound of 
sugar (the best loaf), half an ounce of nutmegs grated, 
half an ounce of powdered cloves, half an ounce of pow- 
dered cinnamon, and half an ounce of allspice, also pulver- 
ized. Boil all together for a short while, and when cold 
add one pint of fourth-proof brandy, or pure rectified 


VIRGINIA COOKEZRY-BOOK. 281 


whiskey, and half a pound of white sugar; crack up a 
handful of the seeds, and throw them into the juice before 
it is strained, to heighten the flavor; put the juice and 
sugar on the fire; let it come to a boil, and skim well. 
When it is cold, add the spirit, and bottle, corking se- 
curely. 

CURRANT SHRUB. 

To every pint of currant-juice run through a bag with- 
out squeezing add one pound of sugar, and use as a sum- 
mer drink, mixed with three times as much water as juice, 
iced bountifully. If the shrub is to be kept any length 
of time, and in that case only, add half a gill of brandy 
to each quart-bottle of the shrub. The red-cluster sour 
cherry and the Morello cherry also make a delicious cool- 
ing beverage, treated in the same fashion. 


282 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XXIII. 
HOME-MNA DE WINES. 


Blackberry Wine, Nos. 1, 2, and 3.—Wine from Catawba Grapes.— 
Grape Wine.—Currant Wine.—Good Cooking Wine. — 

‘WuliteE the compilers of these recipes advocate the strict- 
est temperance, they do not exclude from their collection 
directions for making pure wines at home, useful as they , 
are for medicinal purposes, and for making wholesome 
and palatable some articles of diet. Since Jesus Christ, 
our great exemplar, in his intercourse with men, seéems 
to have taught moderation, rather than the exclusion of 
any creature fitted for nourishment from lawful use, we 
cannot think it wrong to make, or teach others how to 
make, pure wine for home consumption. 


BLAcKBERRY WINE, No. 1. 
(Orange County Recipe.) 

Cover your blackberries with cold water; crush the 
berries well with a wooden masher; let them stand 
twenty-four hours; then strain, and to one gallon of juice 
put three pounds of common brown sugar; put into wide- 
mouthed jars for several days, carefully skimming off 
the scum that will rise to the top; put in several sheets 
of brown paper, and let them remain in it three days; 
then skim again, and pour through a funnel into your 
cask. There let it remain undisturbed till March ; then 
strain again, and bottle. These directions, if carefully 
followed out, will insure you excellent wine. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 283 


BiLackBERRY Wine, No. 2. 
: (Culpepper County Recipe.) 

Take ripe blackberries and press the juice from them ; 
let the juice stand thirty-six hours to ferment; skim off 
whatever rises to the top; then to every gallon of juice 
add one quart of water and three pounds of sugar. Let 
this stand in open vessels twenty-four hours ; skim and 
strain it, then barrel it, and keep it corked tight till 
March, when it should be carefully racked off and bot- 


tled. 
BLACKBERRY WINE, No. 3. 


(Albemarle County Recipe.) . 

Express the juice from the blackberries; to the squeezed 
pulp add as much water as it has yielded juice, and stir 
for half an hour; then strain, and mix with the juice. To 
every gallon of this mixture add two pounds and a half, 
-or three pounds, of white sugar; place the cask in the 
cellar while the process of fermentation is going on, and 
cover the mouth with grease, so as to admit air but ex- 
clude insects. To ascertain if there is saccharine matter 
enough in the juice and water to make good wine, drop 
an egg in, and if it floats all is right; otherwise, add 
more sugar. Rack off and bottle in November, after fer- 
mentation has entirely ceased. 


A few observations may not be amiss on blackberry 
wine-making in general. All of the three recipes given 
above have been tested and approved by good judges, 
and we believe either of the three will produce satis- 
factory results. Dewberries, or low-berries, as they are 
called in some sections of the country, answer just as well 
for wine-making as the high, or shrub-growing variety ; 
possessing the same astringent properties, so valuable for 
checking some diseases. Whether the sugar be the com- 


284 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


monest brown or purest white, let there be enough of it 
to float an egg—three pounds to the gallon being the ap- 
proximate weight allowed in all cases to the gallon, if 
success is to be sure. A cellar affords the most favorable 
temperature for the keeping of this and all other wines. 
There seems to be a great diversity of opinion as to the 
relative proportions of water and juice—authorities vary-_ 
ing from one pint of juice to three quarts and one pint 
of water to nearly the converse, viz., one quart of water 
to three quarts of juice. It would seem that if the quan- 
tity of sugar is right to the gallon, wine is sure to result 
in either case, and the color is prettier where there is less 
of the fruit juice. Some say dark-brown sugar contain- 
ing a quantity of alcohol makes the wine have more body ; 
others insist that white sugar is indispensable; while yet 
others, again, come between the two, and prescribe fair- 
brown sugar. We have seen good wine made by persons 
holding these diverse opinions, and mention them to show 
the house-keeper that a large margin may be allowed for 
variations that circumstances sometimes enforce, and yet 
her wine not be spoiled. There is room, too, for those who 
love experiment to try and bring more certainty into a 
manufacture about which there seems to be so much as 
yet undecided. 

A third of an ounce of alum to each gallon of wine, 
put in when the juice is set to ferment, is thought by some 
to be a great improvement. 


WINE FROM CATAWBA GRAPES. 


Gather the grapes, and strip them from their stalks, 
leaving out all decayed ones; put them into a large china 
bowl or wooden tub; with a masher break the skins and 
express the juice; cover, so that gnats may not be at- 
tracted, and leave for several days, or until decided fer- 
mentation sets in; then strain, and to each gallon of the 


VIRGINIA COOKEHRY-BOOK. 285 





juice put one pound of white sugar. A delicious lady’s 
sweet wine is thus furnished—such as would be very re- 
viving to a delicate or feeble person. 


GRAPE WINE. 


Mash the grapes, and strain them through a cloth ; put 
the skins in a tub after squeezing them, with barely enough 
water to cover them; strain the juice thus obtained into 
the first portion ; put three pounds of sugar to one gallon 
of the mixture ; let it stand in an open tub to ferment, 
and for a period of from three to seven days skim off 
what rises every morning. Put the juice in a cask, and 
leave it open for twenty-four hours ; then bung it up, and 
put clay over the bung to keep the air out. Let your wine 
remain in the cask until March, when it should be drawn 
off and bottled. | ‘1 

Currant WINE 

Is better than blackberry in all cases where a light color 
is desirable ; and, strange as it may seem, we have seen a 
good and bright wine made by the following directions : 
One quart of currant-juice, three quarts of water, three 
pounds of brown sugar, all to be put together in a cask. 
Let it remain with the bung out (open) for six weeks ; 
then stop up. 


Goop Cooxine Wine. (Simple and Perfect.) 

One quart of grape-juice (Fox grapes, Catawba, Con- 
cord, or the small wild grape, gathered after frost, will 
answer), three quarts of water, two and a half pounds of 
common brown sugar. Let the juice of the grapes be 
strained clear ; mix it with the water and sugar, and put 
directly into an open barrel or cask (for the vessel should 
be full), and let it stand so in a cellar for nine days; then 
cork up the cask tight ; fasten the bung, and set aside till 
spring, when it may be bottled, and is ready for use. 


286 - VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





CHAPTER XXIV. 
THE DAIRY. 


To Make Butter.—Brine for Keeping Butter.—To Cure Butter.— 
Mrs. Colston’s Recipe for Putting up Butter to Keep.—Cottage 
Cheese. — Bonny - clabber. — Slip. —Curds and Cream, No. 1.— 
Curds and Cream, No. 2.—Cheese.—Cream-cheese, No. 1.—Cream- © 
cheese, No. 2.—To Make Slip-coat Cheese. 


To Maxr Burtrer. 


WE cool the milk as soon as possible after it is strained ; 
a small portion of ice around the pans cools it very soon. 
The milk is allowed to stand about twenty-four hours be- 
fore it is skimmed; and if properly cooled when first 
milked it will not thicken or sour in that time, in scarcely 
any weather, in a well-ventilated dairy. We use care in 
skimming to take only the cream; the less milk with the 
cream the better. The cream is kept in good stone jars, 
and churned as soon as it begins to sour. We use the 
barrel-churn and pan, fifty to sixty revolutions per min- 
ute, with a steady, even stroke. It takes from thirty-five 
to forty-five minutes to make the butter come. As soon 
as granules begin to form, if they are soft or of a whitish, 
creamy appearance (as they will be if the cream is too 
warm), we cool down with less, until they acquire a proper 
consistency. As soon as the churning is finished we draw 
off the buttermilk, and press the whey all out of the but- 
ter with the paddle ; it is then salted, at the rate of one 
ounce to one pound of butter, which is well worked in the 
butter ; 1t is then set aside for six or eight hours, for the 
salt to dissolve and the butter to cool, when it is thor- 





ie ‘VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 287 


oughly worked and pressed to get the whey all out of it, 
and packed down at once in stone jars, using the paddle 
and packer all the time, and never touching it with the 
hand. An ounce of salt is none too much, as a large por- 
tion of it is carried off with the whey in the last working 
of the butter. When the jar is filled, a thick coat of salt 
is put over the top of it; then a piece of paper, greased by 
dipping it in a cup of melted butter; another layer of salt 
is placed over this, and then another fold of paper, and 
all secured by tying a thick cotton cloth over the mouth 
of the jar. Butter managed in this way will keep from 
May until the next spring perfectly sweet. 

The giver of the above recipe, Dr. J. A. Reid, took the 
first premium for butter at a Virgina State Fair, and his 
instructions may be relied upon in every particular. 


Brine FoR Krepinc Butrer. 


Make a brine strong enough to bear an egg, then put 
in two handfuls of salt to each gallon of water; add half 
a pound of white sugar and two teaspoonfuls of saltpetre ; 
boil well, and skim until perfectly clear; then strain 
six or eight times. Always keep a bag of salt in the 
brine with the butter; let the butter be weighted down, 
the rolls tied separately in cotton cloths, and it will pre- 
serve its sweet, fresh taste for a year or two. 


To CurE BUTTER. 


In the fall of the year is the best season for putting 
away butter, so that it will keep to use during the spring | 
months, when it is usually so scarce and high in price. 
Half a pound of salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, a 
quarter of a pound of white sugar; pound these ingredi- 
ents together, and put one ounce to every pound of butter 
as you take it from the churn, sprinkling and working it 


288 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





just as with salt alone. Pack it down in a jar as tightly 
as possible, adding from week to week until it is full; 
then cover with an inch of salt, tie a thick cloth over 
the mouth, invert the jar, and it will be better after six 
months’ keeping than at first. 


Mrs. Couston’s REecirpE FoR Putting ure BUTTER TO 
KEEP. 


Pulverize together in a mortar two quarts of best com- 
mon salt, one ounce of saltpetre, and one ounce of white - 
sugar; work the butter three times, and at the third 
working put in an ounce of the above mixture to every 
pound of butter; the butter must be made up into half- 
pound rolls and put into the following brine: To three 
gallons of brine strong enough to bear an egg add a Ava 
ter of a pound of white sugar. 


CortTaGE CHEESE. 


Take a pail of new, rich milk, put it in a kettle over 
the fire, and let it scald (be careful that it does not boil, 
or the curd would become hard and tough), then strain 
through a thin, white, cotton bag, allowing it to hang and 
drain all night. In the morning add a teaspoonful of 
salt, a small piece of butter, and enough sweet cream to 
make the cheese of such consistency as you like. 

Most persons simply turn it out into a dish and send 
to table with a pot of cream in addition; but it may be 
shaped in small moulds, or made up into rolls or cakes. 


BONNY-CLABBER.* 
Where the dairy is good, this plain but, to many tastes, 
* Spelled in dictionaries Baugh-naugh Claugh-baugh. A gentle- 


man from America calling to pay his respects to Fredrika Bremer 
was asked to sup with her on this homely dish. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 289 


delightful dish may be enjoyed daily in hot weather. It 
is simply milk that through heat has “turned” or thick- 
ened until it is of the consistence of baked custard. It 
should then be set upon ice, or in the coolest part of the 
spring-house, and sent to table not a moment before it is 
to be helped out. 

Individuals eat it with relish just as it is; but for most 
persons sugar, cream, and grated nutmeg are required to 
make it one of the choicest of Arcadian dishes. 

The milk may be poured into a glass bowl before it 
turns, and then be more presentable than in one of the 
dairy milk-pans. 

SLIP. 

Slip is bonny-clabber without its acidity, and so delicate 
is its flavor that many persons like it just as well as ice- 
cream. It is prepared thus: Make a quart of milk mod- 
erately warm; then stir into it one large spoonful of the 
preparation called rennet; set it by, and when cool again 
it will be as stiff as jelly. It should be made only a few 
hours before it is to be used, or it will be tough and wa- 
tery; in summer set the dish on ice after it has jellied. It 
must be served with powdered sugar, nutmeg, and cream. 

Artichoke blossoms were made to take the place of 
rennet by Virginia matrons in times past, and it may be 
convenient to know that they possess the same virtue as 
rennet; but nowadays druggists sell a nice preparation of 
-rennet quite reasonably, that renders the making of slip 
one of the simplest of processes. A nice dessert is thus fur- 
nished with hardly any trouble, and at very short notice. 


Curps AND Cream, No. 1. 


Turn one quart of milk as for slip; let it stand until 
just before it is to be served; then take it up with a 
skimming-ladle, and lay it on a sieve; when the whey 

13 


280 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


has drained off, put the curds in a dish, and surround 
them with cream ; use sugar and nutmeg with them. 


Curps AND Cream, No. 2. 


One gallon of milk will make a moderate dish. Put 
one spoonful of prepared rennet to each quart of milk, 
and when you find that it has become curd, tie it loosely 
in a thin cloth and hang it to drain; do not wring or 
press the cloth ; when drained, put the curd into a mug 
and set in cool water, which must be frequently changed 
[A refrigerator saves this trouble.] When you dish it, 
if there is whey in the mug, ladle it gently out without 
pressing the curd; lay it on a deep dish, and pour fresh 
cream over it; have powdered loaf-sugar to eat with it ; 
also hand the nutmeg-grater. 


CHEESE. 


Persons living in the country sometimes have more 
milk than they can use, of which cheese may be made. 
Indeed a really energetic house-keeper loves to be inde- 
pendent, and know how to make everything that may 
conduce to the comfort of her family under any circum- 
stances. A cheese of one’s own make must taste better 
than another ; and for a young house-keeper of such mind 
we give the following tried recipe, mainly as from Mrs. 
EK. Lea’s directions: Put four gallons of new milk in a 
clean tub that is kept for the purpose; skim your night’s 
milk, and put two gallons of it over the fire ; when it is 
near boiling put it in the tub with the new milk and the 
rest of the night’s milk. It should be rather more than 
milk-warm. If it is too warm, the cheese will have a strong 
taste. The day before you make cheese, put a piece of — 
rennet three inches square in a teacup of water, and stir 
it into the milk; cover the tub, and let it stand in a warm 


ee 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 291 


place; when the curd begins to form cut it in squares 
with a long wooden knife, and spread a thin towel over 
it; when the whey comes through the cloth you can dip 
it off with a saucer; then put a thin towel in the cheese- 
vat, put in the curd, spread the cloth over the top, put 
on the lid, and press it moderately about half an hour; 
then put it back in the tub and salt it to your taste ; mix 
it well, and if you want it very rich put in a quarter of 
a pound of butter. Itis always better to skim the night’s 
milk and put in butter, as the cream is apt to press out. 
Have a clean cloth in the vat; put in the curd, close it 
over, and put on weights; if you have no cheese-press, 
a heavy stone will answer the purpose; press it very 
gently at first, to keep the richness from running out. 
The next morning draw it out by the cloth, wash and 
wipe the vat, put in a clean cloth, and turn in the cheese 
upside down; do this morning and evening for two days ; 
then take out the cheese and put it on a clean board; 
set it where the mice and flies will not get at it; rub it 
every morning with a little butter, and turn it three times 
a day ; dust it over with Cayenne pepper if you cannot 
keep it from the flies; and if it should crack, plaster on 
a piece of white paper with butter. It is fit for use in two 
weeks. Cheese made in this way has a rich, mild taste, 
provided that the milk is of good quality. If you get 
eight gallons of milk a day, you may make cheese twice a 
week, and still supply your family with butter. You 
should keep four thin cloths on purpose for cheese. 


CREAM-CHEESE, No. 1. 

(Mrs. Jas, Madison's Recipe.) 
To four gallons of milk warm from the cow add one 
gallon of sweet cream; stir into the milk while warm 
seven or eight teaspoonfuls of rennet-water; let it stand 


292 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


till it begins to whey; tie it in a cloth, and let it drip 
ten or twelve hours, frequently squeezing it; then put 
the curd in a cloth laid in a mould; press, but do not lay 
too great a weight at first, but increase as the cheese may 
require. When dry enough, sprinkle it over with salt, and 
set it in the shade. 


CRrEAM-CHEESE, No. 2. 
(English Recipe.) 

Take five quarts of new milk fresh from the cow, and 
add to it a quart of cream and a pint of warm water ; 
then stir it all together, and put into it enough prepared 
rennet to turn that quantity of milk (one dessert-spoonful 
to a quart), and when it is quite firm press it down a lit- 
tle, without breaking the curds; then put the curds and 
whey together into a cloth, and turn it from one side of 
the cloth to the other, till the whey be all run out; put 
it then into a cloth upon a board, with a vessel underneath 
to catch the dripping whey ; press it, but gently and grad- 
ually, laying on but two pounds at first, and increasing 
the weight gradually till you have laid on seven pounds ; 
salt it by sprinkling a little upon it daily while it is press- 
ing; turn it every time you lift off the weights; when it 
has lain two or three days thus, put it into some nettles 
to ripen it, and. change your nettles once in two days, or 
every day, as you see occasion. It will be fit to eat in a 
fortnight’s time, and makes delicious food. 


To Maxe Suip-coat CHEESE. 


Take two quarts of new milk from the cow, and add 
to it one pint of cream; put to them a table-spoonful of 
prepared rennet, and when the milk has become a firm 
mass break up the curd well, separating it from the whey 
with your hand; then put it under the pressure of a four- 


lt 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 293 


pound weight, the cheese being wrapped in a clean, wet 
cloth ; turn it once in two hours in a wet cloth, and when 
you have turned it three times strew a little fine salt upon 
it, and so keep it turned every two hours in a wet cloth 
all the day, and at night turn it into a dry cloth; the 
next morning take it out, and lay it in vine-leaves, changing 
the leaves twice a day till you find it fit to eat, which is 
usually in eight or ten days. 


294 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER XXV. 
CANDIES AND CONSERVES. 


Cocoa-nut Candy.—Cocoa-nut Balls.—Candy in Pudding Fashion. 
—Newport Candy.—Cream Caramels.—Conserves of Strawberries. 
-—Kisses.—Peach Chips or Conserves.—Peach Leather.—Butter 
Taffy.— Cocoa-nut Cones.— First-rate Molasses Candy.— Choco- 
late Caramels.—Delightful Cough Candy. 


Cocoa-NuT CANDY. 


Equa quantities of white sugar and grated cocoa-nut ; 
add enough milk of the cocoa-nut to moisten the sugar, 
and then put it on the fire to boil, stirring almost constant- 
ly. When the candy begins to return to sugar, stir in the 
cocoa-nut as quickly as possible, and in a minute or two 
spread it on dishes to cool, marking it off in squares to 
cut after it hardens sufficiently. If you would like a por- 
tion pink stir a little pokeberry jelly into some of the 
candy while hot, until it has acquired the tint you like. 


Cocoa-NuT BALts. 


Any confectioner now will furnish his customers with 
freshly-grated cocoa-nut at a reasonable price, which is a 
great saving of labor at home. To one pound and a half 
of white sugar put one pint of water, and boil until ropy; 
then turn it out into a bowl, and stir into it one good- 
sized cocoa-nut, and when cool make into balls with the 
hand, and set away to dry. 


CANDY IN Puppine FASHION. 


Take half a pint of citron, half a pint of raisins, half a 
pound of figs, quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 295 


one pint of peanuts before they are hulled; cut up the 
citron, stone the raisins, blanch the almonds, and hull 
the peanuts ; cut up the figs into small bits. Take two 
pounds of coffee-sugar, and moisten with vinegar; put 
in a piece of butter as large as a walnut; stew till it 
hardens, but take off before it gets to the brittle stage ; 
beat it with a spoon six or eight times; then stir in the 
mixed fruits and nuts. Pour into a wet cloth and roll it 
up like a pudding, twisting the ends of the cloth to mould 
it. Let it get cold, and slice off pieces as it may be want- 
ed for eating. 
Newport Canpy. 

_ One pint of molasses, half a pint of brown sugar, quar- 
ter of a pound of butter. Choose a cold winter day for 
your candy-making, and you can hardly fail to be pleased 
with your success, for this recipe is generally liked: 
Boil for several hours, until a drop cast into a cup of cold 
water will harden by the time it reaches the bottom. 
Have ready some buttered dishes, and pour a thin layer 
of the boiling candy over the surface. Let it cool with- 
out pulling. It is crisp, and very good. 


Cream CARAMELS. 


Half a pound of chocolate, two pounds of white sugar, 
a table-spoonful of butter, one teacupful of cream. Cook 
these together until the mixture candies; flavor with 
vanilla, but not too much—say one teaspoonful. Stir this 
candy all the time. This makes the dark part. | 
_ White part: three cupfuls of sugar and one of cream, 
boiled together for twenty minutes ; not to be stirred too 
much, and flavored with lemon or orange juice. Butter a 
flat dish ; place upon it a layer of the brown mixture ; let 
it get a little hard, and then add a layer of the white, which 
also allow to harden for a few minutes ; place on top an- 


296 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 
ee) 
other layer of chocolate. Check off in little squares, and 
cut into blocks when cold. 


CoNSERVES OF STRAWBERRIES. 


Prepare the fruit as for preserving ; that is to say, 
sprinkle the strawberries with sugar, when freshly gather- 
ed, in the proportion of half a pound of sugar to one of 
fruit ; let them stand four hours to allow time for the 
sirup to form, and the fruit get slightly hardened ; then 
pour off the sirup, put it on the fire in a preserving-ket- 
tle, drop in the fruit as soon as it comes to a boil, and let 
it stay just long enough to become well scalded; then 
take it off gently in a ladle that is perforated, spread the 
berries on dishes in the sun to dry, throwing over them 
a thin muslin. covering to protect them against bees ; 
bring them in at nightfall, turn them, and the next day’s 
sunning will probably be sufficient to dry them enough. 
Pack them in glass jars, interspersing each layer of fruit 
with a sprinkling of granulated sugar. 


KXISSES. 


Whites of two eggs, into which beat very gradually 
two teacupfuls of powdered sugar and two table-spoonfuls 
of corn-starch; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Drop in tea- 
spoonfuls, two inches apart, on well-buttered letter-paper ; 
lay the paper on a half-inch board, and place in a mod- 
erate oven. Bake fifteen minutes, until slightly brown. 


Pracu Cuirs oR CONSERVES 


Are made almost precisely as directed for strawberry 
conserves; the only difference between chips and con- 
serves being that the former are made of clingstone 
peaches sliced thin, stewed, and put out to dry, and the 
others are, preferably, made of soft peaches, or rather free- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 297 


stone peaches, and only cut into halves when put into the 
preserving-kettle. Bees are perfectly voracious after this 
sweetmeat ; and, if it is not put to dry out of the reach of 
their depredations, will disappear with the most amazing 
rapidity. ‘The choicest French confectionery is not equal 
to this sweetmeat when seen in perfection, and it is not 
very troublesome to make. 


Preacu LEATHER. 


Stew as many peaches as you choose, allowing a quarter 
of a pound of sugar to one of fruit ; mash it up smooth 
as it cooks, and when it is dry enough to spread in a thin 
sheet on a board greased with butter, set it out in the sun 
to dry, and when dry it can be rolled up like leather 
wrapped up in a cloth, and will keep perfectly from season 
to season. School-children regard it as a delightful addi- 
tion to their lunch of biscuit or cold bread. Apple and 
quince leather are made in the same fashion, only a little 
flavoring of spice or lemon is added to them. These leath- 
ers are made in the valley of Virginia, and seldom seen 
elsewhere in the State. 


ButrrerR TAFFY. 


This may be made by first melting in a shallow vessel 
a quarter of a pound of butter, adding to it one pound of 
brown sugar ; stir them together fifteen minutes, or until 
a little of the mixture, dropped in cold water, will break 
clear between the teeth without sticking to them. Extract 
of lemon, pineapple, or vanilla should be added for flavor- 
ing just before the candy is done. The taffy, when taken . 
from the fire, should be poured into a shallow dish, which 
must be buttered on the top and edges. By drawing a 
knife across it when partially cold, it can be broken into 
squares. 

cae 


298 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Cocoa-NuT CONES. 


Beat to a froth two eggs ; add gradually a small cup of 
sugar, one cup of cocoa-nut grated, one spoonful of flour ; 
make into cone shape by rolling them. Put on buttered 
sheets of tin ; cover with letter-paper, and bake five min- 
utes in a quick oven. Let them cool before removing 
from the tin. 


First-rRAtTE Monassres Canny. 


One gallon of good, fair molasses, five pounds of brown 
sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; boil together 
until they candy well; then pour out in buttered dishes, 
and pull until very white. It is crisp, and uncommonly 
good. 

7 CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. 

Not quite half a pound of Baker’s Chocolate,-.one: tonfodd 
and a half of brown. sugar, a quarter-of a pound'of: ‘butter, 
a teacupful of cream; cook steadily for thirty ‘minutes 
after it begins to boil; put in a table-spoonful 2 ee 
just before taking it oft the fire. | 


De.icutrut Cougu CaAnpy. 


Break up a cupful of slippery-elm bark, and let it soak 
for an hour in water poured over it in the measuring-cup. 
Half fill a cup with flaxseed, and fill up to the brim with 
water, leaving it to soak the same time as the slippery- 
elm. When you are ready to make the candy, put one 
pound and a half of brown sugar in a stewpan over the 
fire; pour the water from the slippery-elm and flaxseed 
over it, straining the last, and stir constantly until it boils 
and begins to turn back to sugar; then turn it out, and 
it will break up into crumbly, small pieces. For preach- 
ers or teachers who use their voices too much, it will be 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 299 


found an admirable and agreeable medicine, the taste be- 
ing peculiarly pleasant. It is highly recommended to any 
one subject to throat affections. ‘The best flavor for it is 
a little lemon-juice. 


300 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER XXVI. 
FRITTERS, PANCAKES, ETC. 


French Fritters. — Bell Fritters. — Rice Fritters. — Puff Fritters. — 
Apple Fritters. — Spanish Fritters. — Snow-flake Sauce. —Berry- 
ville Fritters.—Quaking Pudding.—Pancakes.—Scotch Pancakes. 


FrRENcH FRITTERS. 


PROVIDE one quart of fresh milk ; sift one quart of fine 
flour and mix it to a paste with half the milk; put the 
other half on the fire in a preserving-kettle, and as soon 
as it boils thicken it with the paste, and stirring steadi- 
ly let it cook until very well done ; then set it aside.to 
cool in a large bowl or pan. Meanwhile beat separately, 
until perfectly light, the whites and yolks of ten eggs, 
mix them, and add to the batter a spoonful at a time un- 
til all is in. Add a teaspoonful of salt. Have a small 
oven ready, half-full of boiling lard ; drop into it, for each 
fritter, not quite a spoonful of the batter, and take the 
fritters out with a perforated ladle before they turn dark. 
Begin to fry your fritters before the meat dinner is taken 
up, and when fried a pretty brown put them into a colan- 
der, so that every particle of lard may drain from them. 
Eat with hot, boiled molasses, wine and sugar, or any 
sweet sauce that you like best. 


Beit FRITTERS. 


Put one quart of water into a kettle, with a large spoon- 
ful of butter; set it on a slow fire, and stir into it by 
degrees one quart of flour, adding a teaspoonful of salt. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 301 


When perfectly smooth pour it into a dish to cool; then 
beat six eggs very light, the whites and yolks separately, 
and then knead all together. Make the dough into small 
balls and drop into boiling lard; when of a light-brown 
dish them. This quantity will serve a family of eight 
persons. One pound of lard should be allowed for the 
frying. 
Rice FRITTERS. 

A pint of rice boiled soft, and a table-spoonful of but- 
ter added while it is hot. Beat up three eggs very light, 
and add them to the rice after it has become cool. Make 
into balls, and fry in boiling lard. Eat with molasses for 
a plain dessert. 


Purr FRITTERS. 


To one pint of milk put eight spoonfuls of flour, mixing 
them well together. Grease a pan well, and in it scald 
this batter well, stirring all the time that it is upon the 
fire. When removed and cold, add fourteen eggs well 
beaten. Mix all together until perfectly smooth, beat un- 
til light, and drop from a spoon into boiling lard, like 
other fritters. 


APPLE FRITTERS. 
(Mrs. Maria Randolph.) 


Pare some apples, and cut them in thin slices ; put them 
in a bowl, with a glass of brandy, some white wine, a quar- 
ter of a pound of pounded sugar, a little cinnamon fine- 
ly powdered, and the rind of a lemon grated; let them 
stand some time, turning them over frequently; beat 
two eggs very light; add one quarter of a pound of 
flour, a table-spoonful of melted butter, and as much 
cold water as will make a thin batter; drip the apples 
on a sieve, mix them with the batter; take one slice 


302 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


with a spoonful of batter to each fritter ; fry them quick- 
ly of a light-brown, drain them well, put them in a dish, 
sprinkling sugar over each, and glaze them nicely. 


SpaNIsH FRITTERS. 


Make up a quart of flour, with one egg well beaten, a 
large spoonful of yeast, and as much milk as will make it 
a little softer than muffin dough ; mix it early in the morn- 
ing ; when well risen work in two spoonfuls of melted — 
butter, make it into balls the size of a walnut, and fry 
them a light-brown in boiling lard, and eat them with 
molasses or the sauce given just below. 


SNOW-FLAKE SAUCE. 


Take half a pound of nice butter, a pound of sugar 
(pulverized if possible), and a teacupful of sweet but rich 
cream. Wash the salt carefully from the butter, and cream 
it well, then put in the sugar, which must also be creamed 
with the butter. Put the cream into a pitcher, and then 
as you stir the butter and sugar pour this into it in as 
small a stream as possible—this being necessary in order 
to get the butter and cream to mix smoothly. Season 
with lemon or vanilla. 7 

If you make it of granulated sugar, prepare the sauce 
the day before it is needed, and set it in a cool place to get 
firm. After mixing, wet your hands and make into small 
oval pones, or into one large round pat like butter, and 
serve it in a small flat dish. In helping it, slice it with a 
silver knife instead of a spoon. 


BERRYVILLE FRITTERS. 


Mix one pint of rich milk with five table-spoonfuls of 
flour, four eggs, beaten, and the addition of two apples 
chopped up fine; fry them. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 303 





QuaKING PUDDING. 
(Judge St. George Tucker.) 


Take one pint of cream, out of which take two or three 
spoonfuls and mix quite smooth with a spoonful of fine 
flour; set the rest to boil. When it has boiled, take it off 
and stir in the cold cream and flour until smooth. When 
it is cool, beat five eggs and two whites of eggs; stir in 


grated nutmeg or mace and a little salt; sweeten to your 


taste. Butter a wooden bow! or other vessel and put it in. 
Tie a cloth over and boil it half an hour. It must be put 
into boiling water and turned about a few minutes, to pre- 
vent the eggs going to one side. When done, turn it into 
a dish and pour over it a sauce of melted butter, sugar, 
and wine. You may dress it with citron or other sweet- 
meats. 
| PANCAKES. 

One pint of flour, one pint and a half of milk, two eggs, 
and one small teaspoonful of salt. All depends upon the 
cooking, and this takes some practice. The tossing of a 
pancake requires real sleight-of-hand, and is seldom even 
attempted by an ordinary cook. Take a frying-pan, and 
when it is hot have a little butter tied up in a rag and just 
rub it over the pan for a pancake or two at first, and that 
will be enough, for they will afterwards fry themselves. 
Lay the batter in the pan very thin, and when brown on 
one side turn it; when it is done roll it up like wafers and 
put it on your dish. 


ScotcH PANCAKES. 


Take a pint of cream, the yolks of eight eggs and six 
of the whites, a quarter of a pound of butter, three table- 
spoonfuls of flour, a little wine, sugar, and nutmeg; put 
the butter into the cream, and set it over the fire till it 


304 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


boils; then take it off. Stir the eggs—being first well 
beaten, with the flavoring in them—into the cream and 
butter; beat all well together; add the flour, and beat it all 
up to a batter. Put a small lump of butter into a frying- 
pan, and when it is melted put in a little batter, and fry it 
till it be just brown next the pan; then turn it into a dish, 
with a little sugar strewed over it. When this is done, 
take a little more batter and put it into the pan; and 
when done as before, put it upon the first pancake in the 
dish, and strew more sugar over it; and so proceed until 
the pile is complete and ready to serve at table. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 305 





f 
4 


CHAPTER XXVII. 
FOR THE SICK. 


Beef Essence.—Chicken Essence, or Tea.—Beef Tea, No. 1.—Beef 
Tea, No. 2.— Chicken Soup. — Panada, No. 1.— Panada, No. 2. 
—Rusk Panada.—Caudle.—Rice Caudle.—Flour Caudle.—Hard 
Biscuit for Invalids.—Crisp Biscuits. —Mush.—Gruel.—Arrow- 
root.—Tapioca Jelly.—Sago.—Rye Mush.—Cremo.— Eggnog.— 
Mint Julep.—Prunes.—Lemons.—Limes.—Soft Peaches.—Cran- 
berries.—Apples.—A. Plain Rice Pudding.—Rice Milk, No. 1.— 
-Rice Milk, No. 2.—Rice Shapes.—Clover Tea.—Mullein Tea.— 
Tamarind-water.—Toast and Water.—Apple-water.—Elder-flower 
Tea.—A Fine Tonic.—Lemon Honey.—Dewberry Sirup.—Boiled 
Flour for Invalids.—To Cure a Cold.—An Admirable Cough Mixt- 
ure.—Cherry-bark Tea.—Brown Mixture for Coughs.—Burns.— 
Blisters. —Basilicon Salve.—Cuts.—W ounds.—Sprains.—Bruises. 
—For a Rising Breast.—Boils. 


Havine once had the experience of being very sick in 
one of the most elegant of city hotels, where meal seemed 
to succeed meal with hardly any intermission the whole 
day through, and every imaginable dainty that could tempt 
the healthy appetite was obtainable, there was positively 
nothing at all found suited to the simple tastes of the 
sick. 

We would not have it so in our ménage. For, if at- 
tention to the preparation of food where the well are con- 
cerned is a duty, how much more imperative does it be- 
come in case of those upon whom disease has laid its hand. 
We will not, then, close our cookery book without append- 
ing a few recipes meant especially to meet the wants of a 
sick-room, although we may not hope, within the limits 
of one brief chapter, to cover the ground so completely 
as we could desire. 


306 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Brrr Essence. 


Chop up as fine as possible one and a half to two pounds 
of the fleshy part of beef; wash it, and put it immediately 
into a wide-mouthed vessel of glass or stone, adding no 
water but what adheres from the process of washing; 
cork tightly, and put over the fire in a stewpan of cold 
water, that must be brought gradually to a boil and kept 
boiling for three or four hours steadily. The above quan- 
tity of meat will furnish nutriment for an ill person for 
twenty-four hours. 

A little salt may be added in almost every case, and 
sometimes a little flavoring of celery is admissible. 


CHICKEN EssENcE, orn TEA. 


For a very sick person choose a full-grown fowl, the 
juice being more nutritious ; chop it up fine with a meat- 
axe, bones and all, and put it into a wide-mouthed bottle. 
closely stopped, with no water but what has adhered after 
washing ; set the bottle into a pan of cold water, and let 
it boil around it for several hours. In some cases this is 
preferable to beef tea ; but when to use one or the other 
it is the part of the physician to decide. 


Brrr Tra, No. 1. 


(Professor Marshall.) 


Take one pound of beef, free from fat; cut it into small 
pieces, and then submit it for three hours, each time in 
succession, to half its weight in water—half a pint of cold, 
of warm, and of boiling water. The fluids strained off from 
the first and second infusions are to be mixed with that 
strained off hot from the third, or boiling process, and the 
mixture should be just brought to a boiling heat to cook 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK, 307 


it; the fat should be skimmed off; a few drops of some 
acid (when admissible), with a very little salt, will improve 


the flavor. 
be; Brrr Tra, No. 2. 


Two pounds of beef, without fat or bone; half a breakfast- 
cup of cold water; place it in a jar, close covered, within a 
_ saucepan of water; place it where it may simmer gently for 
at least four hours. 

CHICKEN Soup. 


For an invalid who needs plain, nourishing diet, but at 
the same time is not very sick, take a half-grown fowl, or 
spring chicken, and cut it up into eight pieces; put this 
meat into a stewpan of suitable size, and cover with cold 
water — about a quart will suffice; set it on the back 
part of the stove and let it simmer, but not boil, for two 
hours. Half an hour before it is needed add a gill of rice 
and put in salt to the taste; thicken with a very little 
flour made into a paste with cold water before putting it 
into the soup, and add a flavoring of parsley chopped up, 
or celery, whichever is preferred; skim off the grease very 
carefully. For a richer soup, the yolk of an egg beaten 
may be added to the thickening. Half this quantity will 
be enough to serve at one time, 


Pawnapa, No. 1. 


Take a large slice of the nicest stale light bread and cut 
it up into half-inch cubes; put the bread into a china 
bowl, and sprinkle over it a table-spoonful of white sugar, 
and drop in half a dozen grains of allspice ; pour over all 
a teacupful of boiling water, and cover up close. In five 
minutes it will be ready for use, and is very nice. In some 
cases a flavoring of wine and nutmeg is preferred to the 
allspice. I have known a person relish panada who could 
eat no other soft food. 


308 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Panapa, No. 2. 


Toast very nicely a slice of stale baker’s bread ; butter 
it, and cut it up into small squares, and set aside in the 
bottom of a small tureen or bowl; set on the fire a tea- 
cupful of fresh milk, and while it is boiling beat up very 
light the yolk of an egg, to which add a salt-spoonful of 
salt and a little pepper, if the patient can use it. As soon | 
as the milk boils, pour it hot over the egg, stirring all the 
while, and in two minutes take it boiling from the fire and 
pour it upon the buttered toast in the tureen ; cover it up 
close, and as soon as the toast has swelled you may serve 
it up. 

Rusk Panapa. 

Boil two rusks for half an hour in a pint of water; 
strain off the water, and beat the rusks up until smooth ; 
then add half a pint of milk; return to the fire in a stew- 
pan, adding a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a table-spoonful 
of wine, and a little grated nutmeg; let all simmer to- 
gether for ten minutes, when the dish will be ready to 
serve. 

CAUDLE. 
(Lady Cust.) 


Beat an egg (yolk and white together), and stir it into 
a pint of thin, cold gruel of either groats or oatmeal ; set 
it on the fire, adding wine, sugar, and spices, as permitted _ 
to the patient. . 

| RicE Cavpilez. 

Rub a table-spoonful of ground rice into a pint of water 
by degrees ; boil it till smooth and thick ; sweeten with 
a table-spoonful of white sugar, and flavor with a slight 
sprinkling of nutmeg. If too thick dilute it. This is 
nourishing food for teething children, and a gill of pure 
milk boiled with it renders it yet more so. 


ee eS ee 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 309 


Frour CavDLe. 


Put on half a pint of new milk to boil in a small stew- 
pan, and rub two teaspoonfuls of flour into half a pint of 
cold water ; as soon as the milk boils up, stir the flour and 
water into it, and stir constantly over a slow fire until the 
mixture is well thickened, which will be in about fifteen 
minutes. (To be used when astringent food is required.) 


Harp Biscuit ror INVALIDS. 


Work a pound of flour into a stiff paste with two ounces 
of butter, and as much skimmed milk as will leave it stiff 
enough to roll; add half a teaspoonful of salt, and beat it 
with a rolling-pin until very smooth. Roll it very thin, 
and cut it into round biscuits. Bake them six minutes. 


Crise Biscuits. 


Knead well into a stiff dough a light quart of flour, the 
yolk of an egg, and half a gill of milk; add a very little 
salt. When well kneaded until very smooth, cut it into 
small, thin biscuits. Bake them in a slow oven until they 
are crisp. 

Muvsn. 

Have ready a clean saucepan, and into it. put a pint of 
boiling water; drop in a teaspoonful of butter, and sprin- 
kle in sifted corn-meal with one hand, while you stir the 
mixture with the other; add a pinch of salt; keep stir- 
ring, and adding meal all the time until the mush is as 
thick as you like it, and perfectly smooth. 

No food can be more simple and digestible. With the 
addition of cream many persons are very fond of it, and 
sugar, too, may be added at pleasure. By this same recipe 
make the mush that, when fried, is always considered an 
indispensable part of the dish of fried chickens, and is 


310 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





never missing at any dinner-party given in Virginia dur- 
ing the early summer months. 

To have it in perfection, it should be made early in the 
morning, spread out thin on dishes to cool and rise, and 
only cut into little square cakes to fry just before dinner- 
time. 

GRUEL. 

This is made from various grains; but if you ask for 
“oruel” in Virginia, it will be always understood that 
you mean Indian-meal gruel, as corn-meal is one of the 
staple articles of-diet there. It is made thus: mix two 
spoonfuls of sifted corn-meal in a very little water; have 
ready a clean skillet, with a pint of boiling water in it ; 
stir it gradually in, and let it stay over the fire until the 
meal is done; then season it with salt to your taste, or 
sugar if you prefer it. 


ARROW-ROOT. - 
(E. E. Lea.) 


Bermuda arrow-root is the best. Moisten two teaspoon- 
fuls of powdered arrow-root with water, and rub it smooth 
with a spoon; then pour in a very little boiling water, and 
stir it well, and afterwards a teacupful of boiling water ; 
season it with lemon-juice, or wine and nutmeg. In cook- 
ing arrow-root for children, it is a very good way to make 
it very thick, and thin it afterwards with milk. 


TAPIOCA JELLY. 
(E. E. Lea.) 


Wash the tapioca well, and let it soak for several hours 
in cold water ; put it in a saucepan with the same water, 
and let it boil slowly till it is clear and thick; then sea- 
son it with wine and loaf-sugar. ‘The pearl tapioca will 
reqaire less time to soak, and no washing. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 311 


SAGO. 
(E. E. Lea.) 


Wash the sago and soak it an hour; boil it slowly till 
it thickens ; sweeten it with loaf-sugar, and season it with 
wine or lemon-juice. 

Rye Mosu. 
(Miss Leslie.) 


This is a nourishing and light diet for the sick, and is 
by some preferred to mush made of Indian-meal. Four 
large table-spoonfuls of rye-flour mixed smooth in a little 
water, and stirred into a pint of boiling water; let it boil 
twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Nervous persons, 
who sleep badly, rest much better after a supper of corn 
or rye mush than if they take tea or coffee. 


CREMO. 


Two eggs, a pint of milk, three dessert-spoonfuls of 
flour, two even table-spoonfuls of white sugar. Beat the 
yolks of the two eggs with the sugar; put the milk on the 
fire in a stewpan, and when it boils pour it over the eggs 
and sugar, stirring rapidly. Meanwhile, mix the flour 
smoothly with a little cold milk; return the custard to the 
fire, and stir in the paste, continuing to stir until the whole 
is well thickened; add any delicate flavoring that you pre- 
fer. Place the cremo in a pretty china dish that will just 
hold it, and, when cold, wisk the two whites to a froth with 
a table-spoonful of pulverized sugar, and pile over the top 
meringue fashion; brown slightly by holding within an 
inch of it a shovel heated to a white heat. 


EGaenoa. 


Beat the yolk of an egg until it is very light and thick; 
add a dessert-spoonful of sugar and a table-spoonful of 


312 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





French brandy; now pour to it a gill of milk or cream, 
and beating the white of the egg until it can stand alone, 
mix all well together, and serve to your patient as a 
rected by his physician. 


Mint JULEP. 


This is so valuable a remedy, especially in cases of cholera 
infantum, that every garden should have growing a little 
patch of branch mint. Put a dessert-spoonful of fine 
white sugar in the bottom of a tumbler; beat up fine 
enough ice to fill it; add to it four or five sprigs of mint 
and a table-spoonful of brandy; mix all together well with 
a spoon, and administer to a child a very little at a time 
‘until it appears to be revived. 


PRUNES. 


French prunes preserved are among the greatest delica- 
cies of the table; but the Turkish prunes, that may now 
be bought so cheap, serve every purpose medicinally, and 
stewed with only three ounces of brown sugar to the pound 
are quite palatable. As a laxative agency they are valu- 
able. A little lemon-juice added is an improvement in all 
respects. When a real aperient is needed, make a tea 
with a few senna-leaves; stew it with the prunes, and eat. 
a few before retiring at night. 


LEMONS. 


This fruit is coming more and more into use both as a 
preventive and cure of disease. In the spring of the year, 
when they are so plentiful, their free use is especially ben- 
eficial in cleansing the system from impurities and build- 
ing it up generally. Taken medicinally, sugar had better 
be dispensed with. One half of a lemon furnishes juice 
enough for a glass of hot water, in which it should be dis- 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 313 


solved. Take a glass of this lemonade at night, as well as 
before breakfast in the morning, if you would try this 
remedy of nature fairly. As an antidote to rheumatism 
and malarious influences, as well as dyspepsia, lemons are 
well worth trying. All travellers are recommended to pro- 
vide themselves with a few lemons, that they may always 
be at hand. 
Limes. 

This tropical fruit is said to be a specific against sea- 
sickness when used in the following way: Crack up a 
tumblerful of ice; add to it a teaspoonful of sugar, and 
squeeze the juice of the lime on top; mix it up, and sip a 
little at atime. The relief experienced is said to be mar- 
vellous. 

Sorr PEacHEs 
Are the most digestible of all fruits, and may even be 
given to teething children with impunity when peeled and 
perfectly ripe. 

CRANBERRIES 
Are said to be a pleasant and efficacious remedy when 
mashed up and made into a poultice to apply in cases of 
erysipelas. 

ve APPLES 
Must be baked or stewed to be included in the list of fruits 
peculiarly suited to the needs of the delicate. Cooked in 
this way they are wholesome as well as palatable. 


A Prain Ricr Puppine. 


To one quart of new milk put two and a half table- 
spoonfuls of rice; wash the rice, rubbing it well, and then 
pour boiling water upon it; strain off the water, and let 
the rice soak from one to two hours in the milk, throwing 
in half a teaspoonful of salt and three table-spoonfuls of 
white sugar; put your pudding in a small baking-dish and 

14 


314 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


‘set it on the top of the stove until the rice is soft and the 
milk a jelly; then set it in a slow oven, and let it stay 
long enough merely to brown nicely on top. 


Rice Mirx, No. 1. 


Wash and clean nicely a gill of rice, and let it soak for 
an hour, as in the recipe on preceding page; then put it 
over the fire in a small kettle, and let it boil until every 
grain of the rice is thoroughly swelled and tender. It is 
usually served in small deep plates, and eaten with the 
addition of sugar and a little nutmeg. 


Rice Mitr, No. 2. 


Boil a gill of rice in water until tender; pour off the 
water, and add a teacupful of fresh milk into which two 
well-beaten eggs have been stirred; boil all together for 
five minutes, stirring constantly to prevent the rice stick- 
ing to the bottom of the pan and burning; sweeten while 
hot with a table-spoonful of white sugar, and grate nut- 
meg over the top, when its flavor is relished. 


Ricr SHAPES. 


Pound half a pound of rice in a mortar until quite fine; 
put it in cold water and let it remain until nearly soft; 
then pour off the water, and put the rice into a stewpan 
with one pint of sweet milk; set it on the top of the stove, 
and let it cook until thick-and smooth like mush; sweeten 
with a teacupful of white sugar, and flavor delicately with 
whatever you like—(rose-water is very suitable); dip your 
blane-mange moulds in water ; fill them, and the shapes 
will be ready to turn out in half an hour. Dish it with 
boiled custard or whipped syllabub; but plain cream and 
a little jelly or jam make a nice dessert for sick or well. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 315 





Cirover TEA, 


Gather the blossoms of the purple clover and dry them 
in the shade. ‘The first crop only is safe to use medici- 
nally. Take a handful, and steep it in a pint of boiling 
water until the strength has been extracted. For a tonic 
drink a wineglassful three times a day. 

This simple remedy is excellent for purifying the blood, 
and has been known to remove tumors pronounced cancer- 
ous by surgeons. It is said to relieve greatly in cases of 
whooping-cough; and growing freely, as clover does, at 
our very feet, is well worth the gathering and laying by, 
as one of the careful housewife’s treasures. 


Mutuein TEA. 


To one large stalk of mullein pour one gallon of hot 
water; boil down to half the quantity; strain, and to ev- 
ery pint of the liquid add a pound of loaf-sugar or rock- 
candy. To the whole quantity add a gill of spirit to 
prevent fermentation. Dose: a wineglassful three times 
a day. 

This preparation is said to be an invaluable remedy in 
throat affections, or any case which seems to threaten con- 
sumption. | 

Mullein is found growing commonly on the roadside or 
in other uncultivated ground. Its botanical name is ver- 
bascum. 

"‘TAMARIND-WATER. 

East India tamarinds make another pleasant acid bever- 
age by merely steeping the fruit in hot water, and keeping 
it closely covered up until enough of the flavor has been 
extracted to suit the patient’s taste. The fruit is pre- 
served in sugar, but a little more may be added if re- 
quired. 


316 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





Toast AND WATER. 


Toast nicely a large slice of loaf-bread; scrape off every 
burnt particle, and cut into cubes half an inch square; 
have a pint of boiling water ready in a small pitcher, and 
add to it the bits of toast. As soon as it is sufficiently 
cool it may be drunk. 

APPLE-WATER. 

Roast several apples of fine flavor. and put them into a 
small pitcher; pour upon them enough boiling water to 
fill the pitcher, and a drink is furnished peculiarly grateful 
to persons who are feverish from cold, for instance. 


ELDER-FLOWER TRA. 


Infuse dried elder-flowers the same way as common tea 
is made; add a little acid to hide the sickly taste of the 
elder; sweeten to the taste. This is an excellent remedy 
to promote profuse perspiration. 


A Fixe Toute. 


Take thirty grains of quinine and mix with enough 
lemon or other sirup to fill a four-ounce phial; shake well 
before using, and take a teaspoonful just as you sit down 
to each meal. 

Lemon Honey. 

A pleasant remedy for a cough. Three lemons, one 
pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, six eggs. 
Beat the eggs up light; add the other ingredients, and set 
it over a slow fire until it boils, taking care to stir fre- 
quently and see that it does not burn. Eat as you like. 


DEWBERRY SIRUP. 


To one quart of juice take one pound of loaf-sugar, two 
nutmegs, one table-spoonful of cinnamon, one table-spoon- 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK, 317 





ful of allspice, and two dozen cloves; boil the ingredients 
until their strength is extracted; strain it, and when near- 
ly cold put in one pint of best French brandy. This is 
considered efficacious in diarrhea, and especially good for 
teething children. ‘The dose for a child one year old is a 
teaspoonful, to be taken three times a day. 


BortED FiLovur For INVALIDs. 


Take one pound of fine flour and tie it up in a strong 
linen cloth as tightly as possible; after frequently dipping 
it in cold water, dredge the outside with flour until a crust 
is formed around it which will prevent the water from 
soaking into it while boiling; then boil it until it becomes 
a hard, dry mass; grate two or three spoonfuls of this, and 
prepare it as you would arrow-root, for which it is an ex- 
cellent substitute. 


To CurkE A CoLp. 


Take the juice of two lemons and three-quarters of a 
pound of loaf-sugar, simmering them together for half an 
hour; then remove from the fire, add two table-spoonfuls 
of paregoric, and bottle for use. Dose: one teaspoonful 
three times a day. 


An ADMIRABLE CoucH MIxTURE. 


Three table-spoonfuls of molasses, two table-spoonfuls of 
vinegar, one teaspoonful of antimonial wine, and forty 
drops of laudanum. Take a teaspoonful after each fit of 
coughing, and it often cures. 


CHERRY-BARK TRA. 


There is no better tonic and cure for a cough at times 
than a tea made of the inner bark of the wild-cherry. It 
should be cut off in thin slips or chips, and a pint of hot 


318 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 





water poured over a handful of these. When the decoc- 
tion is of a light amber color it is ready for use. ‘Take 
half a wineglassful three times a day. 


Brown Mixture For CouaGus. 


One ounce of paregoric ; one ounce of gum-arabic; one 
ounce of licorice ; one table-spoonful of antimonial. wine. 





Although the following recipes may not appear alto- 
gether suitable for insertion in a cookery bookythey are be- 
lieved to be so valuable for reference, especially in coun- 
try houses, where medical aid is not always promptly at 
hand, that we give them for humanity’s sake. Moreover, 
they have peculiar interest as being copied (by permis- 
sion of her daughter, Mrs. Page) from the manuscript . 
book of one of the most gifted and distinguished women 
of her day, viz., Mrs. Elizabeth Coalter Bryan, grand- 
daughter of Judge St. George Tucker, of Williamsburg, 
and the favorite niece of John Randolph of Roanoke. In 
person she was wont to administer these healing reme- 
dies to her servants, as well as children, with an effective 
tenderness, the memory of which abides up to this day. 


Burns. 


The best application for a burn is liniment made of 
lime-water and oil, beaten together till it looks like butter 
melted to dress vegetables for the table. It matters not 
whether common lime or the chloride of lime is used ; 
and either sweet-oil or linseed-oil will answer. Wrap the 
parts in fine linen covered with this mixture, and cover 
thickly on the outside with raw cotton to exclude the air. 
Never open but once in twenty-four hours, and then care- 
fully soak off the rags with the lime-water and oil, so as 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 319 


not to injure the tender skin that may be forming on the 
wound. Bathe well with the liniment and cover with cot- 
ton as at first. When lime cannot be got, the next best 
dressing is soot and lard mixed well, melted, and strained 
to get out the coarse particles of soot. In this case you 
may first use alum-water to assuage the pain, and then 
put on a plaster of the above. In every case, over the 
rags put raw cotton to exclude the air and keep the part 
from being rubbed. 
| BLIsTERS, 

If you wish a blister to heal quickly, be careful not to 
remove the skin. On infants this should be observed. 
The first dressing should be lily or cabbage leaves cod- 
dled in boiling water, then a salve made thus: one part 
wax, one of lard, one of turpentine (from the pine-tree) ; 
melt and strain. Rosin is sometimes used instead of tur- 
pentine. This makes basilicon. If the part be in a situ- 
ation apt to be rubbed, cover with cotton bats, as in a 
burn, especially in case of an infant. 


BAsInicon SALvE. 


One part lard, one of beeswax, one of turpentine (from 
the tree, or rosin will do) ; melt together and strain. It 
is good to keep this always ready. 


Cuts. 


A cut should be drawn together and strapped across 
with sticking-plaster. This should not be removed for 
three or four days, and when withdrawn it should be by 
both ends at once, so as to pull it out together instead of 
opening it. When no sticking-plaster is at hand, a pretty 
good substitute can be made by beating comfrey and sugar 
together, and spreading the juice (not the substance) on a 
bit of strong linen, and using it as above directed. 


320 VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


W ounpDs. 


Ragged wounds (in the hand or foot especially) should 
be freely and frequently bathed in hot lye, and dressed 
either with lye poultice, thickened milk poultice (with a 
little oil to keep it from getting hard), or with mush and 
fat. 

SPRAINS. 

Parsnip-tops beat to a pulp and wet with vinegar area — 
good application; or bran, clay, or brown paper made wet 
with vinegar; but I think that for sprains or 


BrvuiskEs 


You had better wrap the part with a soft cloth in many 
folds, and keep it constantly wet with water as warm as 
the patient can bear it. This treatment should be kept up 
for an hour or two at a time. 


For a Ristnc BREAST. 


Make a plaster of two table-spoonfuls of flour, two of 
honey, and two of linseed oil; stew together, and spread 
smooth on a cloth; scrape two table-spoonfuls of gum 
camphor as fine as possible, and sprinkle over it; apply this 
to the breast if it is desirable to dry up the milk. Nothing 
can be better. If you do not wish to dry up the milk, 
a hole should be cut for the nipple, and the child frequent- 
ly nursed to keep up the flow of milk, or it will dry up. 
To soften a breast in which cold has been taken, flannel 
wrung out of hot salt water (very strong and as hot as can 
be borne) is the best thing I ever saw tried. — 


Bolts. 


These painful and troublesome things may sometimes 
be prevented by wetting a stick of caustic at one end and 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 321 





making a circle around the inflamed part. If it will rise, 
apply a warm flaxseed or a mush and fat poultice, and as 
soon as it is soft open with a lancet, and dress with Basil- 
icon. If the boil is a hard tumor, with a hard speck in 
the middle, which when opened shows a greenish-looking 
core, it is a carbuncle, and should have a blister put en- 
tirely over it. All boils which are slow to rise are best 
treated by being blistered, which is less painful than would 


be supposed. 
14* 














ot 
= 
, 
. 
‘ 
~ 
a 





PAGE 
Ac, Blackberry. .s.... 00.00 280 
Acid; Strawberry .......20.%. 278 
Apple Charlotte....... baie: W's 178 
Apple Pies without Apples.... 177 
IER = WANE, . car secincsvcrse OLG 
ES gies cis c's v0» enh dwiw a ¢ 313 
Apples with Jelly............ 226 
A Pretty Supper-dish........ 224 
EEOC a niin icc e ce ess 310 
PE oy x wa ee a vs oo 120 
MOE Ae ie ovis’ <ia sas 050s sss 20 
CTO a a 121 
PEDAPGOUS SOUP... 20+ cscs ss 73 
MpeGhetO.CUYCS, . <6 5c i+ ts sss 268 
eae, 10 DEKE. cian cess sans 71 
Pee SOTO. ow ey a's ae hone 69 
Batter Bread 2: 6... oss ee 21 
Batter Bread, Mrs. Cabell’s.... 3838 
Batter Cakes, Economical..... 24 


Batter Cakes of Indian Meal... 33 
Batter Cakes made with Mush. 23 
mavarian Cream... ........;. 224. 


Beans, French, or Snap....... 122 
Me EMA ec adie sis se hes vs 122 
PEPE EOEOUUUG aie e's wie re oa 0s wa 108 
eres OOTCO cas ceva die nes 306 
Deemer ETCASED. Cs. sais sass os i 277 
BEM 2c. a a oe 0 vie doo 74 
TO Wisia is ccs eas ¢ vee beats 96 
POEM UCTe NOGA. eileen soc ec exe 306 
Heel DOAUING. 20 sis cc ss cee 807 


Beef, to Corn, Nos. land 2.... 273 
Beef Tongue, Fresh.......... 103 


PAGE 
BOOTALODC ai aie: « lochs eres oO 95 
Beefsteak, Italian........... 102 
TICERG (siask vias sidnais a stateree ee «5-8 122 
Biscuit, Beaten, No.1......... z! 
Biscuit, Beaten, No.2........... 8 
Biscuit, Wrench os. 5 occ x wo: + i se 12 
Biscuit, Hard, far Invalids..... 309 
Biscuit, Sher wood............ 8 
TRECUEL ONG 2a occas de cs k a4 14 
USC ST TMM i Or ae aa A rte 6 
BBCI S oo ies pw citings € a7a aS = 5 
Biscuits, Chaney’s Thin...... 26 
PsCuits Crisp: Swear s'n Pee a 309 
Biscuits, Lightened.......... 12 
Binowtts, Qaick: oars oe ons wae 13 
Black Bean Soup..........-. 75 
Blackfish, to Bake ........... 69 
Blanc-mange, No. 1........-. 222 
Blanc-mange, No. 2.......... 223 
Blane-mange, Almond........ 228 


Blanc-mange, Carrageen Moss. . 225 
Blane-mange, Chocolate, Nos. 1 


SEs Set wate sual ausows ae. geese s 223 
Boiled Flour, for Invalids..... 317 
Bonny-clabbers.sisesas cen « 288 
Bread, Alabama Rice ........ 3 
Breads APO sis. ads vie ss 16 
Tread. BtGWI 6s tsi. eve aes 15 
POOR EP TOUCIN caso cts, wale 12 
Bread, Light or Loaf......... 2 
Bread, Salt-rising........0.3- 17 
Bread, Virginia Egg......... 31 
Brine for Keeping Beef....... 273 
Brine for Keeping Butter..... 287 





324 INDEX. 
PAGE PAGE 
Brine for Keeping Souse...... 271 | Cakes Apoquinimine......... 21 
Buckwheat Cakes, No. 1...... 29.) Cakes, Velvetyicc.0 an ae ieeee Beye 
Buckwheat Cakes, No. 2...... 23 | Calf’s Head, to Dress........ 100 . 
Buckwheat Cakes, Quickly Made 238 | Candy, Cocoa-nut............ 294 
Bans, Cinnamon 200 ts eee 10 | Candy, Cough (Excellent)..... 298 
Butter,to Cure is... cs.0 eee 287 | Candy; Molasses.) -5-- ae 298 
Butter, to Cure (Mrs. Colston’s Candy, Newport............. 290 
Way icone com he Oe ee ee 288 | Candy, Pudding Fashion...... 294 
Butter, to: Makes: 2.5 2-5 oe. 286 | Carp au Court Bouillon....... 70 
Carp, to Broil...........-.+- 70 
Cabbage srig Jamia aera ee 123 4 Carrots" isc. gee a AS 123 


Cabbage Pudding, Nos. 1 and 2. 124 


Cake, Almond F240. .Ghien eek. 193 
~ Cake, Angel’s Food. .5....: 1GT 
ake. ASD oer tece scram vas 20 
Cake, Bride’s . 183 


Cake, Butter Secon 


ree | a 
Uako, Cocos-NuUty ..c8s suena 190 
Cake, Composition........... 186 
Cake \Ureanicn nia ae neater 192 
Cake, Fruit, Cheaper, but Good. 185 
Cake, Fruit, Elegant Black.... 183 
Cake, Fruit (More Modern).... 184 
Cake, Fruit, White... ....2... 185 
Cake, Good, but Cheap....... 194 
Cake, Indian Meal Pound.. 193 
Cake, Jackson... 0%. sine vs et EO 
Cale SOW s. saa Hs saws pe ee lole 189 
Cake; Lady, tsa0sgus secre 187 
Cake, Leavened Fruit........ 190 
Cake, ee se airs se cae « cep tate ote 185 
Cake, Little Molasses......... 188 
Cake, Marmalade jiays0<cce es 188 
Cais, Naples Biscuit. . .. 182 
Cake, Never-failing.......... 190 
Cake, Pound :43 cm 5 fn te eae 182 
Cake, Republican... soi... 191 
Cake, Shrewsbury........... 194 
Cake, Snow- mountain........ 186 
Cake; ‘Sponge s..crer cnn sss ws 181 
Cake, Tea, Nos. 1 and 2,...... 193 
Cake, Ten-minute............ 189 
Cake, Valley Sponge......... 182 
Cake, White GCapey it abtrcs: 191 


Catsup, Cucumber, Nos. 1 and 2. 110 


Catsup, Cucumber........... 119 
Catsup, Gooseberry.......... 118 
Catsup, Green Tomato....... . 114 


Catsup, Tomato, Nos.1, 2,and3. 116 


Catsup, Walnut, Nos. 1 and 2.. 118 
Caudle, ;'.:.cicghise areas 308 
Cauliflower or Broceoli....... 125 
Charlotte-Russe.........+.:- 227 
Charlotte-Russe, Chocolate.... 225 
Cheese, Cottage’)... ves sare 288 
Cheese, Cream, No.1......... 291 
Cheese, Cream, No, 2......... 292 
Cheese, Slip-coat........20-. 292 
Cheese, to: Makev oo teaaeuee 290 
Chicken Essence, or Tea...... 306 
Chicken Pudding............ 99 
Chicken Soup inee ee) eee 307 
Chickens 4 la Daube......... 148 
Chickens, to Boil Grown...... 89 
Chickens, to Fricassee........ 98 
Chickens, to Roast........... 88 
Chickens, to Stew. jae 99 
Chines and Jowls, to Cure.... 269 
Chocolate, Nos. 1 and 2....... 42 
Chocolate, No. 8... = ssseneeanes 43 
Chocolate Caramels.......... 298 
Cocoa-nut Balls... ss... 294 
Cocoa-nut Cones. .........3.. 298 
Coffee, to Boil, Nos.1 and 2... 87 
Coffee, to Boil, as at Monticello. 38 
Coffee, French «...ta .aeeeniee 38 
Coffee, General Remarks about. 35 


INDEX. 


ST 


PAGE | 
wemreen VINA, |. 5... se cee 39 
Dla peos Cure O...45........0% 317 
Cordial, Blackberry (Medicine). 280 
Corn and Tomatoes.......... 141 
OPO) DAKO. wk. cca ess 126 
Corn, to Boil on the Ear...... 125 
(orm, to Cook Dried.:........ 127 
SPU EEG 2 See ses Kees ss 126 
Gern, tostew, No. 1,.......+% 125 
Sor, co ptew, No. 2..... 4... 126 
Corn Batter Cakes........... 19 
Corn Bread, Espetanga....... 30 
Corn Cakes, Port Royal....... 29 
DE TIGO COTS 5 civic se ev eles ss Aer ee 


Corn Muffins, Nos.1 and2.... 29 
Cough Mixture, An Admirable. 317 


Coughs, Brown Mixture for.... 318 
Memrr AsOuUlON. 2... . sess. os 62 
Crackers, Delicate........... 27 
gy ca 313 
Cream Caramels. .......3.... 295 
EE GS eee 221 
os Se Se eae 311 
Ss a Se a ae 142 
Cmoauettes, NO, 2) ic... 08s so 143 
DOMME lt Sk ois wae vn se axon 22 
Curds and Cream, No. 1...... 289 
Curds and Cream, No. 2...... 290 
SEOEEBU ACE ho cap om asie.c os0 es 212 
RPO OWOOT es... ee bao ee o7 
Setar, AKO oe ssc ose e os 215 
Reasbab, DOUCK Wi. o6.c0 8 s:s0'0 213 
Cieeerd, BUI, .%0<0'ss2 0s 08 214 
Custard, Chocolate .......... 208 
EAE HOW] e550 wis se c0i00 9 98 
eee aes ee nc vee ies 127 


Dowberry Sirup.. 25... se ess. 
Dressing for Lettuce......... 
Dressing for Lettuce without 
157 
Dressing for Mayonnaise Salad. 160 
Dressing for Salad, Nos. 1, 2, 


825 
PAGE 
Ducks, Brown Gravy for...... 100 
Ducks, 60, Roasts 0/65) 0 sa os 89 
Daeks, to Slew. 2. 66. oe ds ns 99 
Ducks, Wild, to Dress........ 90 
Ducks, Wild, Gravy for....... 90 
Kelaires, Ellie’s............. 226 
ES ee al a SP 311 
Egg-plant, to Bake........... 128 
Pie pliant Uo HEY 6. 6b a.5 a+ sis 6 128 
Egos a la Créme.....c0cesss 47 
OPEN ARGO «ws a0d te se ea 05's 46 
Megs. Deviled oy 5 <ccsaw'dis cass 46 
Bees, EPArl MOLEC ace tete sro0's, 4 
Eggs, Omelette of...... 45, 46, 47 
Higes, POACHE vc. <5 olks dines 45 
Eges, PCEATDOG sale dateio tiers 47 
Deep BITTE soe a speceiaten os < 46 
Eggs, Soft-boiled..........-- 44 
Bap tuted. + sce a 5s acai 9° 48 
PAPitias CCUYs oc o.s.uleroe clade S « 222 
Vather Ads. os. .60 sas %0% as fe 101 
Filling for Ra: Peach Man- 
goes.. 7 aes 256 
Fish, Reniares GU kiete cp entes 58 
Fleninel Cakes, Nos.l and 2... 25 
Rlour Candle, 2 000.00 ales « . 809 
WIGUMNORY yess shee sie mins 4 see! « 227 
PVA WAVE. oo caw soe e kus wre as 19 
Force-meat Balls for Soup.... 75 
Priperk, Apple cick es See 301 
Fritters, Bell: 05... cic aa bcos © 301 
Fritters, Berryville.........-. 302 
Fritters, Frenehis si 05 vec. a0 < 300 
Mribierg Pale oo sds sas, f hee * 301 
Peittera; Spanish >: 5.5.00. « 302 
Berets BiCCrs ween di welt cs 301 


er’s 


eeeceerereereereeer eer er ee ee 





326 INDEX. 
PAGE 5 PAGE 
Ginger Cake, Preston......... 187 | Icing, Pink Coloring for...... 197 
Ginger Cake, Mrs. J. R. Page’s. 188} Icing, Transparent........... 196 
Ginger Shapes: . a. peek ae 189 | Isinglass Jelly, oy. a2 essen 218 
Goose, Epicure’s Improvement E 
CO MERODE ise wien: ieee ore oe eee 87 Jelly... 3 ee ee 239 
Goose, to Roast a.........45. 87 | Jelly, Apple?) 3) aauelectaetenn 230 
Gooseberry-fool .........054. 212 | Jelly, Apple, Beautiful........ 230 
Griddle, to Grease a......... 33 | Jelly, Calf’s-foot............ elt 
Grits, or Small Hominy....... 128 | Jelly, Cream) . 45 eee . 221 
Grits; to Bakery 2.0 wee en 129.|.delly, Fox-prapesi. oa eae 234 
Grits, to Bry Sse eo An 129 | Jelly, Lemonade........ eonae ale 
Cratiel soi, csc olge eslatis oaks arate 310 | Jelly, Orange ...s.ccscdecewe SLO 
Jélly, Tapidca.. 2... aceee eee 310 
Ham, 9. Stufled. 0,22 <4 ones» 274 | Jelly without Eggs or Boil- 
Yiam, Prize Recipe for Cur- ING. 2... sb eee 218 
ie ei erans ey Se ee eee 276 | Jelly without Wine.......... 228 
Ham-to Boll: aan een eae 276 | Jerusalem Cream......... Pere A E 
Ham, to Broil Nicely a....... 274 | Johnnie Cake 2.2... esc ccls 28 
Ham, to Cure by Pickling..... 271 
Hash, Dakode: $3. go onset ale 105 | Kisses...... o> solsiatunaoee eee 296 
Wen,a Boned a. see we a tenes 144 
Hen’s Nest, to Make a........ 224 | Lapland Cakes, Nos.land2... 24 
Herrings Boiled, with Mustard Lemon Honey cea. sates Bee A 
SOUCEs oc ss ao sie eee ee a eae 65 | Lemons... .sceiaeeeee Latins pmeeiie 
Herrings, to Boil Plain....... 64 | Limes”: ).°, <3. cyte een . 313 
Herrings, to Dress Fresh...... 64 | Loaf, Bachelor’s...........-: 8 
Herrings, to Pickle.......... 277 Loaf, Federal, .2 254s aie om onan 
Hoe -Uake.... 2 2.) ence eanrea on 30 | Loaf, Golden, of Albemarle. . 14 
Hominy Batter Cakes........ 32 | Loaf, Powhatan ote tataea AG 12 
Hominy, to Boil..... 129 Lobster Pie... sane ae 68 
Lobstér Sauces... 2iacmue wee 
Ice-cream, Apple........0+2. 206 | Lobster, Stewed ........... sis. y UE 
Ice-cream, Banana........... 215 
Ice-cream, Caramel .......... 206 | Macaroni... Gene. alas ..- 180 
Ice-cream, Chocolate ......... 208 | Marmalade, Orange .......... 247 
Ice-cream, Cocoa-nut......... 207 | Marmalade, Quince .......... 247 
Ice-cream, Coffee, Nos. 1 and Meat Jelly, to Make Nice ..... 149 
DE Meetatietn Dead stems agrees aes 209 | Meat Puddings. ae. wee 272 
Ice-cream, Economical........ 201 | Mint Julep....... eric +a) O12 
Ice-cream, General Directions Molasses Candy ......eee0. «+ 298 
for Making: Voce aece 198-200 | Molasses Candy, Newport..... 295 
Icing, Boiled. Veiia e.g eeees 196.) Muffins"... Sa. camer ».0 «osha ene 
Icing, Chocolate............. 197 | Muffins, English........... ineee 
Icing for Cake, Nos, 1 and 2... 195 Muffins, Hannah’s........... 11 


INDEX. 


PAGE 
PIGS RCO. eS ee. oes aa 28 
ue cier Pe Cie Sate as ote Oke 3809 
PPE RVC sinc secs ce ie eee ee 311 
Mushrooms with Cream...... ee 


Mushrooms with White Sauce.. 147 


Mutton, to Roast, like Venison. 94 
MMH k cscs ace eeee 26 
0S oe eee 130 


Old Hen Made into a Nice Dish. 107 


PENNS Saint os ee ce a e's oe 15 
Omelette, Friar’s ............ 178 
Omelette, Very Superior...... 46 
Omelette with Beef .......... 48 
Omelette with Ham.......... 48 
Omelette with Potato ........ 48 
OS a ar ra 131 
Onions & la Créme........... 131 
CMO POG yr ePowtsiarn <'e'e «.0'e a's 9 4 310 
LS a 6 or 51 
Oyster Loaves. 2.5... 0208s 52 
RPPOROTIEGILY cc. ote ces ese 51 
Oyster Pie, Baltimore......... 56 
RPS OTIOUD is 5 ain cea secs wet 54 
Oyrers Cream. oe ee ches 55 
Oysters, to Bake. ....0 cece cc's 51 
Oyerere, to Broile se... ees ees 50 
Oysters, to Fry. ..oos0 bees ees 52 
Oysters, to Pickle. ........... 54 
Oysters, to Pickle (Richmond 
RDA ritate ako’ se = oe oe + a's 55 
Oysters, Ragoit of........... 56 
Oysters, Raw ........ sheen ee 49 
Oysters, Roasted .........00. 50 
Oysters, Scolloped ........... 50 
Oysters, Stewed ...........6. 49 
BMA ING, Visa ois ks we use v0 307 
PAM ENO: Seis so yiesca as css 308 
PPOMCMRUS. cians ogee ste «clas 303 
Pancakes, Scotch..... Bix Paes 308 
MBESHIPS sas asso ss o's 0 Parties 135 
Partridges 4 la Daube........ 148 


327 


PAGE 
Partridges or Pheasants, to 


TROASER Moiete gk cates os a oa'e'e . 88 
PLC LG a Socal sc css usa a ase obs 162 
Pastry (Another Way)........ 164 
Pastry, BOUed ./.0.0 cc's 5 ai0.c's os 164 
Pens; Green in. ess ek ee es 135 
Peas or Dried Beans......... 136 
PeaCD CHIDS Fins watslees's 06% 0 296 
Peach: Leather’ <3 v2. a.'s0a= e- 297 
Peaches, Brandy... ccs is es 250 
Peaches, Frozen ...........0. 216 
Peaches, SOLE) ee oe. wate co otis ee 313 
Peaches, to Can ........0082% 249 
Peaches, to Preserve ........:. 240 
Pears, to Preserve ..........: 243 
Perlis CcDIOl < oars elds c se ee 66 
PRECIO LOL BEY. oe cals sine os © ons 65 
Perch with Caper Sauce....... 66 
PPICCAMLLO ae intel steels 2 < afewnre oe 146 
Pickle, Buck and Breck....... 266 
Pickle; Capnage...ccc.cc ca sm ce « 255 
Pickle, Cabbage, Chopped..... 256 
Pickle, Cantaloupe, Ripe...... 267 
Pickle, Chow-Chow, No.1..... 261 
Pickle, Chow-Chow,Nos. 2 and 3. 262 
Pickle, Cut-cucumber......... 258 
Pickle, German, or Sweet...... 264 
Fickle, Green, No. 1. 3.23.26 253 
Pickle, Green, No. 2......... . 254 
Pickle, Green Mangoes.,...... 255 
Pickle, Green Tomato, Nos. 1 

BEG Berane so § Sosa & siecolare « 259 
Pickle, How to Stuff Forty Cu- 

G@UIDDOTS sy aaislerels aise were tetee 264 
Pickle, Martinoes.........6-. 258 
Pickle, Mushrooms........... 263 
Piekiey O1On cf. 502 os sels sare 260 
Pickle, Peach Mangoes, No,1.. 256 


Pickle, Peach Mangoes, No. 2.. 257 


Pickle bOpper 2 eas. od cae es 263 
Pickle, Pepper Mangoes ...... 257 
Pickle, Ripe Tomato......... 259 
Pickle, Spanish cy « (eis:<tes's sls ate 265 
Pickle, Sweet Peach.......... 267 





328 INDEX. 
PAGE PAGE 

Pickle, Yellow (Isabella’s) .... 254 | Pudding, Arrow-root ......... 175 
Pickle; W alamtsy te ei ide 260 | Pudding, Baked Plum........ 168 
Pickle, Watermelon-rind, Nos. 1 Pudding, Blackberry ......... 179 

i eae ass. s het 265, 266 | Pudding, Bread.............. eral 
Pickles, General Directions for Pudding, Cakes sige seen 169 

Making 2) ok ooo plc arias 252 | Padding, Citron aa eee 172 
Pickles, to Green’... ...:. 0. 5.. 264 | Pudding, Cocoa-nut.......... 1738 
Pie of Corn and Chicken...... 101 | Pudding, Confederate ........ 166 
Pie, Orange Custard.......... 179 | Pudding, Cream .4..49...ee 0s 173 
Pig in Jelly An. s scat sae 150 }-Pudding, Custard, eae 1738 
Pig, to Roast a Young........ 90 | Pudding, Delicate Apple...... 177 
Pigeons, to Stew. «22.38... 60% 109 | Pudding, Delmonico .........- 180 
Plum Pudding, Frozen........ 213) Pudding, Beait. oe eee 176 
Plam Podding, No, Li ch.accuc 166 | Pudding, Green Corn......... 174 
Plum Pudding, No. 2.001.065. 167 | Pudding, Ground -rice........ 165 
HOD-OVCTS nica 06s sisi rites 34 | Pudding, Jelly cht sa acu ene . 176 
Potatoes, Baked Irish........ 134 | Pudding, Molasses........... 177 
Potatoes, to Boil Old......... 132'| Pudding, Orange. nye ase 172 
Potatoes, Boiled Irish ........ 132 | Pudding, Plain Molasses ...... 170 
Potatoes, Fried Irish......... 1384] Pudding, Plum, No.1......... 166 
Potatoes, Steamed Irish....... 133 | Pudding, Plum, No. 2. enue mee FeO 
Potatoes, Sweet ............. 184] Pudding, Pius (Mrs. Cabell) 168 
Preserves, Apple ......+...+: 229 | Pudding, Plum, Second Day... 168 
Preserves, Blackberry........ 230 | Pudding, Quaking SoReal ae 303 
Preserves, Cherry............ 230 | Pudding, Railway............ 164 
Preserves, Crab-apple, Siberian. 235 | Pudding, Rice, Nos. 1 and2... 174 
Preserves, Cranberry........- 235 | Pudding, Rice, without Beggs. . nt vi 
Preserves, Damson........... 236 | Pudding, Baed, oe be oleate ea ee -. 165 
Preserves, Fie. ts cao seas ~ 248 | Pudding, Sponge - cake, Nos. 1 
Preserves, Grape ............ 240] and 2). .st6% sheen eee 169 
Preserves, Green Gooseberry... 238 | Pudding, Sweetmeat.......... 171 
Preserves, Green Tomato...... 245 | Pudding, Tyler.) jee lees 171 
Preserves, Greengage Plums... 238 | Pudding, Victoria............ 165 
Preserves, Oranges, Whole .... 246 | Puff Paste.................. 162 
Preserves, Peaches, Clingstone. 240 | Puff, Norfolk Pudding........ 176 
Preserves, Pear... «st... s dus vin 243 | Puffs, Germantown .......... 26 
Preserves, Pineapple. . 246 | Puffs, Nun’s..., taqcesmeee nee 29 
Preserves, Quince... . 2 ucate-ns 242 
Preserves, Raspberry......... 243 | Ragoft of Cauliflower, A...... 152 
Preserves, Strawberry ........ 244 | Ragotit of Ham, A........... 150 
Preserves, Sweetmeat ..... 246, 248 | Ragotit of Mushrooms, A...... 146 
Preserves, Watermelon-rind... 249 | Ragoit of Mushrooms and Oys- 
PPPRTICH 54. wins t cecels 5 aii welyiae Aa ope 312'| , OTS... ves ose eae eae . 146 
Pudding, Apple, Nos. 1 and 2.. 175 | Ragout of Sweetbreads, Ass ERE 





INDEX. 329 
PAGE PAGE 
Ragott of Truffles, A......... PO Pomtacy Hem ois. vise er etate s 261 
Hauway Pudding)... 05... ted |Salad, Lobster’... 0.0.6 oes 155 
Puarepit, Pneglish 656s. 8 ws eee eraeealad, QYSECES oo). vs sets ace od 161 
Praremit, Scots. oo. kas ab or Po traly Gunn, No. bos tees oes s 9 
Rarebit, Welsh, No. 1......°..% 144) Sally Lunn, No, 2555.5 507. <5. 10 
Rarebit, Welsh, No.2........ Pert OaMNAOUNGE ks ae kas of od 149 
Meeepberry [Ces oe. sos ste ee ees Healwion: Pie. eee eee 6B 
Raspberry Preserves......... 243) Salmon,.to Boil? gis ce et 67 
Raspberry Vinegar........... 278 | Salmon, to Broil............. 67 
frebon for Tea... ik ce o's e's 104 | Salsify, to Bake............. 188 
Bentet,to-Cure.....2 5.0.6 se Bie peolsity, totes sts es oes 137 
Rice, to Boil (Carolina Fashion) 136 | Salsify, to Stew. ...........0- 138 
Rice, to Boil, after Georgia Salve, Basilicon ’... 4.0.4.0... 819 
Cook’s Fashion...... Leconte 136 | Sanders’of Cold Beef........ . 102 
Os a BAL OAUCG,APDIOS. civ vse sietsald ss "6 115 
| Ca a BOS ROAUCE, DEY Soja ses 6 ewes awe tel als 118 
Rice Croquettes .......ccs008 p43 eauce, Celery vec Gietee cscs ks 112 
Rice Drop Cakes ..:......... 26) Sauce, Chelsea. sets icles 111 
Rice Griddle Cakes, Best...... 82 | Sauce, Cold Tomato.......... 114 
MONO. Vee ais cs os es os $14 | Sauce, Cranberry 2... 3.0.66... 111 
PRO NO. Doce eye ee sss 314 | Sauce, Drawn-butter ......... 112 
RE aes Ciacci seta a e's oe 3's 109: | Sauce Dutch .i'5. 36 ei ok 112 
Pee PURdING ool ese 174| Sauce, Ege .......... 114 
Rice Pudding, A Plain....... 313 | Sauce, Fish. . bid PPA. a! 9 
ROG ng oxo ed Sie hs oie 314 Saves. French Pudding. Pere sts 180 
POG NY AMUCE clone cae as bse Di SU Oe. FLAT. i, toch digo via ous rs 180 
US 9 TR 5405) es 59 Sauce, ettuce Ss et. cae oats 115 
Rockfish, Sauce for........... 60 |Satice, Lobster 6.085. e003. 113 
Peo TAROON ied apne bs oe 15 | Sauce for Lobster or Salmon... 156 
SUS th A a 9| Sauce, Mint, for Lamb or Sal- 
Pep ee LENO Soa es oe ees Steer HONE S 2s aicie Pe saree spe oreo Oe 115 
Hons; Mannah’s..... cscs Ei [Satice, Oyster 205. i eee 117 
Mire Pownatan. . otisds sss Ts pSauce;.Peppet’. sa. wie vet 111 
Rose Brandy for Flavoring.... 279} Sauce, Rockfish ............. 113 
Round of Beef, to Spice...... 27S pNauce. Russian 2.0760 the 2. oe 115 
Rump of Beef, to Stew........ 102 | Sauce, Snow-flake............ 302 
Pee ANAR s eg so ca ecefsais ses $08.F Sauce, Store. 3. (048 P ot ke 116 
CESS a are par re 15 | Sauce, Tomato; Cold... 2.2.2... 114 
NINO RSS S624! h58! dw odie 3.5 16 | Sauce for Venison........... 114 
Sauce for Wild Duck or Grouse. 113 
RM siya 3 Wied 2.5 311] Sauce, Worcestershire........ 119 
Paar WCE. iach Ue a's 160 | Sausage-meat, Nos. 1, 2, and 
RAG CODDARO ss. ves. f. aes 0 BIOS NORD Sao y' tu Giles etibare there's Wai ola terere 270 
Pend CMCKeR io.) .5\s wee ss, oe 1534 Shad, to Bake, 0.0.00 Ses cee 61 





330 INDEX, 3 
PAGE PAGE 
shad, 40,Doil- aint amettas 60 | Stock for Soup........ AMA mee 2! 
pnad, to roils eaeanab ene we ae 67 | Sweetmeats of Citron or Canta- 
Rita, GG iN eiettane en spec 62)» loupe Melons, ...:....52.6- 237 
Sherbet Lemon, \f.'¢ tse been te 210 
Sherbet, Pineapple........... 211.) Taffy, Butter.ca,. eee eee 294 
mur CA Kes 0. Co. cag cata 82 | Tamarind-water...... 0. amen 315 
Shrewsbury Cakes........... 194,1'Tea, Black <2 55a mise ee Aen ee 
SATU, CMErrys.) sh glee cree eos 280 | Tea, Cherry-bark ............ 317 
shrub, Currant... 0.5. cakes 281-}\Dea, Clover..< 4:5 anime eaeeee 815 
Slaw, Cold, Nos. land 2.,..... 155 | Tea, Cold. .ss905 een see sate ios es! 
law, Ob ts'.o pve Peano 156 | Tea, Elder-flower....... osigtee OG 
UD Seuss oe oe ee CeCe ee 289 | Tea, Frozenc, cia eee eee 211 
- Slip-coat Cheese............. 292 | Tea, Green .:, . 2 esa eee 40 
Snow-mountain Cake......... 186.|'Tea, Mullein, seven ace neteen 315 
OUP, ASPAaTARUs.: i .g~ . sadewe es 73 | Terrapins, Stewed ........... 53 
Ou), DCCL ws ses oak tee ee "4 Toast and Water... 32.6% sen 316 
Soup, Black Bean. ......:...%: 75} Tomatoes and Corn.......... 141 
Soup, Calf’s-head ...322.55 50% 76 | Tomatoes, Baked............ 139 
Soup, Green Pea,..,........: 80 | Tomatoes, Broiled ........... 139 
Soap, Gumbo svete ees 77 | Tomatoes, Foreed............ 139 
Soup, Little Eggs for......... 78 | Tomatoes, Raw..;.2.....:.. 157 
Soup, Mock-tartle . 3 .3723..43° 77 | Tomatoes, Stewed............ 139 
Soup, Oita suey nk eee 79 | Tomatoes with Eggs ......... 141 
OUD, OX C20 ow ac nee ee ote 80 | Tongues, to Cure............ 275 
Soup, Oyster, No 10. Sasa ce. 78 | Tongues, to Dress Fresh Beef.. 103 
Soup, Oyster, No. 2....:5..... 79 |'Tonic, A Fine,...... 0.063% (eee B18 
Soup, oquirrely oi. os. Sees. ak cs 81 | Trifle, -. 255 cs see eens 214 
mop, Stock Tor. . 27. sacreaiene ; -92|'Turhot ala Crémes.<er 750% 69 
Soup Stock, to Prepare a Beef’s Turkey a la Daube........... 148 
TICHANMOT 35,055) sa eeu 3 | Turkey, Boiled, with Egg Sauce. 86 
POUT ONAL Whe cud n gee see 81} Turkey, Boiled, with Oyster 
Soups, Good Lenten.......... 82 tac Banee, ss 4c. cee Sac eset 86 
Souse Cheese ..........s0008 91 | Turkey, Deviled ..cyawaheness 85 
Souse in Moulds............. 271 | Turkey, Gravy for... 2.3 se.+ 85 
spouse, Ragofit of ...i.5..2. 2. 1038 | Turkey, Roasted.......... as, ee 
Spinach, to Cook ........ 138, 189:| Turnips..... ese ree 140 
Sponge for Bread......:..... 21 Turnips, Baked 30 paeeeaeee 140 
sponge Cakes. 2.56 sumteais « »- 1814 Turnip-tops: 725 snes 140 
Sponge-cake Batter .......... 181 
Stew, Brunswick»... ..:27'...%' 108 | Veal Olives, the French Way.. 105 
mtew, Mutton:.ios 8 /esneu ace 971 Velvet Cakes ........ Are te | 22 
stew, Venison. eda «ass e eet 104 {| Venison Pasty ;..c0n veeehieen 93 
Stew, Zitelli’s Macaroni....... 97 | Venison, to Roast a Haunch 
stock ‘for Jelly... .saiissuns 2174° Of. . sine ss cose tem ee 


INDEX. 


aA 


PAGE 
Venison, to Roast a Shoulder 


oa ey eee 92 
NCMISON TOSEEW 2... ec ws 104 
Vinegar, Prepared........... 252 
i 192 
Waffles, Edgemont........... 31 
Waffles, Ingleside......... eee tae 
Waffles, Mrs. Walker’s ....... 31 
Waffles without Eggs........ 31 
Wine, Blackberry, No. 1...... 282 


331 
PAGE 
Wine, Blackberry, Nos. 2 and 8. 283 
Wine, Catawba Grape........ 284 
WY IGPOMEPANG 5. cscs ce cic o's 285 
Wine, Good Cooking ......... 285 
We Big Pee hus alk ie ae ge 285 
PRRCOGb ere Tite sic o.notat cup ae even a 1 
Yeast, Another Good Recipe 
SON paced we udinnc soles ve eee 5 
Nesst) Hannal’s ose 5 hs oe 2 
M CaSG: VOMGG 1 cs sks eee s 8 BP 


THE END. 











Following the Tndew will beh for ” 
cole Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 





334 





VIRGINIA COOUKERY-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


336 





VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. | 337 


Additional Recipes. 


ro err? I Bee 


15 


308 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





Additional Recipes. 


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VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 





Additional Recipes. 


340 VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


341 





VIRGINIA CU ia Oe ee Y-BOOK. 


< + vi@ateane Geeapes =e | Additional Reelpes, <7 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKER Y-LOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 845 





Additional Recipes. 


ee 








348 


Soe 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 349 


Additional Recipes. 








VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 301 


Additional Recipes. 


VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. 


Additional Recipes. 





Mrs. Henderson's Practical Cooking, 


Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. A Treatise con- 
taining Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the 
Combination and Serving of Dishes; and in the 
Fashionable Modes of Entertaining at Breakfast, 
Lunch, and Dinner. By Mrs. Mary F. Henperson. 
Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 


Mrs. Senator Henderson has rendered an acceptable service to the wom- 
en of America by the preparation of this thoroughly practical as well as 
thoroughly sensible book. She not only shows how to prepare and cook 
dishes, but how to serve them elegantly, and how to entertain company 
with quiet grace and refinement at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Having 
pursued courses of study with cooking teachers in America and Europe, 
she has the knowledge and experience requisite for the judicious selection 
of ingredients and for their preparation for the table; and we think she 
has successfully carried out her aim to produce “a simple and practical 
book which will enable a family to live well and in good style, and, at the 
same time, with reasonable economy.” * * * There is no detail of the econ- 
omy of the table that is overlooked, and many of these are made more 
intelligible by illustrative engravings.— Christian Intelligencer, N. Y. 

Contains everything that even the most rigidly exacting of eaters could 
ask his cook to know; and which is, therefore, just the volume to be used 
by persons who have to do their own cooking. * * * Is something more 
than a volume on cookery, important though cookery is, and ever must be. 
Not only is it a work for those who eat to live, but it has the highest 
claims on those who live to eat, a smaller but wise class, and possessed of 
immense influence. There is nothing neglected, but everything is done 
that can be required of the fullest professional and professorial skill, and 
well done, too—done to a turn. These pages fortify the intelligent mind, 
and enlighten the mind that is ignorant.—Boston Traveller. 

It tells how to serve dishes as well as how to cook them, and gives many 
useful instructions concerning the art of entertaining, some of which will 
help house-keepers to avoid serving what Lamb called “roast lady” with 
their dinners. The recipes are not too many, and a skilled housewife has 
found all of them good.—W. Y. Evening Post. 

There are many receipts that are quite available without the aid of a 
professional cook, which would give variety to tables that are needlessly 
monotonous. If the mistress would not be servant to her own cook, she 
must know something, at least theoretically, of the culinary art; and to 
such mistresses as are set over homes with abundant means this book will 
be a serviceable emancipation. We note as especially excellent some of 
the receipts furnished by Chef Rudmanii, and some accredited to the 
New York Cooking School.—Harper’s Magazine. 


PusLisHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. 


Aa Harver & Broriurrs will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any 
part of the United S‘a’es or Canada, on receipt of the price. 


A Book for Mothers, 


Mothers in Council. pp. 194. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents. 


If this little book were to accomplish nothing more than to make moth- 
ers understand their station, then it would have wrought grandly. * * * The 
teachings are those of an intelligent experience, in which love and a belief 
in woman’s true mission direct the investigation and conclusion, and are 
of great value to every mothcr. Better, wiser, and healthier children and 
men and women will come of what is here so admirably and entertainingly 
treated.— Boston Globe. 

The writer, whoever she is, knows a great deal, and gives the soundest 
kind of advice in clear, good English.—VPhiladelphia Bulletin. 

A most excellent little volume, filled to repletion with wise and intelli- 
gent suggestions upon domestic duties. Modest in pretension, it purports 
merely to give in a plain, practical way the interchanged views of a num- 
ber of Jadies who speak of that which they have in person experienced, 
and is of value far beyond the most pretentious volames upon the same 
or kindred topics.—Albany Press. 

There is such an immense collection of practical good sense. * * * It is 
a good book for mothers to have about the house and to study in their 
leisure moments.—Pittsburgh Commercial Gazette. 

It would be well for all mothers. in all parts of the country to inform 
themselves of the contents ofthis modest, yet thoughtful, volume. It is 
full of the most valuable suggestions in relation to all matters bearing 
upon the rational training and education of the young.—Providence Press. 

Every mother who buys this book and reads it carefully enjoys all the 
advantages attaching to a membership of the council itself. She benefits 
by its accumulated knowledge without going through all the troubles and 
trials of experimenting for herself.— WV. Y. Journal of Commerce. 

We cannot too warmly or too earnestly commend either this book or the 
example set by the good women of whose conferences it is a record. * * * 
The conferences here recorded are full of wholesome suggestions, and their 
spirit is at once encouraging, refining, and ennobling.—WV. Y. Commercial 
Advertiser. 

It tells in a chatty, pleasing, and wholly interesting manner, and largely 
in the form of dialogue, the transactions of the Mothers’ Club of Abingdon. 
* * * Tt is a book that every mother may read with profit and satisfaction ; 
in fact, is a book of mothers’ experiences compiled for mothers. The 
simple and familiar style in which it is written will make it none the less 
atractive to those for whose instruction and guidance it is intended.—Sat- 
urday Evening Gazette. 

There are necessarily many valuable hints thrown out, and the work is 
wholly of a suggestive and practical nature.—Boston Commonwealth. 

The narrative is very bright, there are a good many clever speeches, no 
end of common-sense and practical advice.—Lrooklyn Union. 


PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. 


gay" Harrer & Broruers will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any 
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Mammers aud Social Usaees Wn America, 


A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. Joun SuErwoop, Au- 
thor of “A Transplanted Rose.” pp. 326. 16mo, 
Cloth, $1 00. 


Mrs. Sherwood’s admirable little volume differs from ordinary works on 
the subject of etiquette, chiefly in the two facts that it is founded on its 
author’s personal familiarity with the usages of really good society, and 
that it is inspired by good sense and a helpful spirit. There is nothing of 
pretence in it, nothing of that weak worship of conventionality which gives 
the stamp of essential vulgarity to the greater part of what is written on 
this subject. * * * There are persons of refinement, education, and some- 
times even of culture, who are in every way fit for the most polished soci- 
ety, but whose want of acquaintance with the customs in vogue among 
those with whom they are for the first time called upon to mingle may be 
sorely embarrassing. Mrs. Sherwood sincerely respects the wish of such 
persons to fit themselves for the graceful discharge of their new duties, 
and so to conduct themselves as to escape remark. It is chiefly in the in- 
terest of such persons that she writes. Her book is also meant to help 
those who are otherwise fit for good society, to a needed acquaintance with 
good society’s usages.—_V. Y. Commercial Advertiser. 

While all needful attention is given to the formalities that seem to be 
generally looked upon as essential to the observance of social proprieties, 
and to the niceties of behavior that good taste suggests, the book is liberal 
and independent in scope. * * * The tone of the work is wholesome, and 
its precepts are admirable in every respect.— Troy Times. 

Few ladies in the land have had opportunity to see more of the society 
whose manners she describes, and still fewer have her happy facility of 
putting them into words.— Utica Morning Herald. 

Those who are not in society as well as those who are will find the vol- 
ume extremely entertaining and instructive.— Worcester Daily Spy. 

A book from which may be derived, in the secrecy of the boudoir, a 
correct knowledge of the manners and customs of society, even to the 
most minute particulars.—Journal of Educaticn, Boston. 

It is absolutely exhaustive of its subject, containing thirty-eight chapters 
dealing with the mysteries of cards, introductions, invitations, weddings, 
dining mand dinner-giving, the treatment of servants, and a variety of simi- 
lar topics. —Chr istian at Work, N. Y. 

There is no country where there are so many people continually asking 
what is ‘‘ proper to do,” or genuinely anxious to do the proper thing, as in 
our own. To all such this little book will commend itself as a plain, sim- 
ple, but entertaining work, which gives exhaustive information, in a most 
agreeable way, on all the details which enter into the life of a well-bred 
person moving in that appropriate sphere.—WVews-Journal, Cincinnati. 


PUBLISHED By HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. 


03" Harper & Broruers will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any 
part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price. 


The Bazar Books. 


The Bazar Book of Decormn, 


The Bazar Book of Decorum. The Care of the Per- 
son, Manners, Etiquette, and Ceremonials. 16mo, 
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A very graceful and judicious compendium of the laws of etiquette, tak- 
ing its name from the Bazar weekly, which has beeome an established au- 
thority with the ladies of America upon all matters of taste and refinement. 
—N. Y. Evening Post. 

It is, without question, the very best and most thorough work on the 
subject which has ever been presented to the public.—Brooklyn Daily 
Times. 


The Bazar Book of Health, 


The Bazar Book of Health. The Dwelling, the Nurs- 
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Library, the Kitchen, the Sick-Room. 16mo, Cloth, 
$1 00. z 


A sensible book, and a most valuable one. From the opening to the 
closing sentence there is not one that we would wish to spare, or to which 
we can take exception. A thousand useful suggestions are made and a 
fund of excellent advice given, which, if followed, will not only improve the 
health of our homes, but minister to their convenience, comfort, elegance, 
economy, and beauty. The man who is about to build a house will be aid- 
ed by many results of invaluable experience, all of which are within easy 
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The Bazar Book of the Household. 


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Two volumes of popular interest and usefulness have already taken their 
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